Tag Archives: Hiram Green

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 65

Hey, it’s me! Yes, I’m still alive in case you were wondering. The blog hasn’t been doing well lately but it’s not because I have been unwell myself… It’s just not much is happening in the perfume world. Or at least I’m not noticing the stuff going on around. Anyways sampling new fragrances is still a nuisance & it’s difficult to write a new article without test material, you know. But I don’t want to stop writing and I don’t want Chemist in the Bottle to be forgotten in the blogosphere. Hence today, after another month-long break, some scented tidbits that might interest someone.

Eau de Minthe joined Diptyque‘s line up of fragrances in 2019 and I remember briefly smelling it at Parisian Galleries Lafayette during one of the steps of perfumery school recruitment process. But it was so fast and there were other more important emotions back then that I didn’t remember the way it smell. Fast forward to 2021 and the chance has arisen. This is not your average refreshing minty cologne for the summer. This is a very herbaceous and green kind of mint that has a certain sharpness & bitterness to it. Geranium note emphasizes the green and stemy facet that simultaneously makes Eau de Minthe crunchy and crisp. Rose Oxide introduced a bit of a rosy accent but most of all it deliveres an ice-cold cut to the fragrance. It’s not brutal but it’s shocking. On the opposite side there’s also a patchouli note that tries to keep the fragrance on the warmer side. This is one unusual concoction, more masculine too – reminiscent of Old Spice… well, kind of.

Those of you who have been reading me for years know that I am fond of the natural fragrances composed by Hiram Green. You’d also know that generally I don’t shy away from weird perfume and in worst case the MQS is the one and only time for me to try something. Quite recently Hiram launched a new creation around vetiver note. Its name – Vetiver – as simple as that. Except there is one big but – me and vetiver come from two different fairytales. I don’t like the word “nuke” but that’s what comes to mind when I smell it. This perfume is a “vetiver for advanced” enthusiasts of the note. The scent is super dry and super aromatic right off the bat, smelling of sun-dried grass, roots, a bit of hay as well. It’s earthy and woody with a lot of richness to it. Maybe it’s the mix of vetiver from Haiti and from Java that works this way but it smells multidimensional to me. Neither citrus not ginger stand out to me in the opening phase but I think they may contribute to the stronger perception of vetiver itself? I kind of see ginger working that way. Cedarwood and patchouli add to the earthy woodiness of Hiram Green Vetiver. There’s raw wood, some wood shavings and all the carpentry stuff going on. Vetiver fans will be enamored with latest from Hiram. For me it’s too much as at times it gets too tarry or “meaty” on me.

I still remember when the brand named Une Nuit a Bali debuted at one of the perfume exhibitions in Italy. Years have passed and the brand has grown stronger (at least that’s what I think it is when you introduce more fragrances regularly). Today this perfume house is called Une Nuit Nomade and today I’m exploring their Jardins de Misfah. Well, this is a gorgeous floriental fragrance. Maybe not very innovatived but no less pretty because of that. The opening offers a mild spicy blend of cardamom and nutmeg that feel crunchy, a bit tingly and kind of dry. But this first impression is fleeting as the perfume quickly proceeds to the heart notes. Here a lavish date accord is revealed and the way it smells makes my mouth water in an instant. It has a delightful sweetness served in an oriental style. It’s mild and inoffensive – perhaps that’s what makes it so appealing. Coupled with rose absolute and rose essence for a deep and luxurious experience of immersing yourself in the pool filled with bright red floral petals. Saffron adds a golden glow to the rose – it’s like a nectar, a honey-like substance that envelops the flower and make it smell even more divine. A hint of almond in the base with its powdery finish gives an elegant gourmand facet worthy of a royalty.

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Viva la Vida, Hiram Green Vivacious

In some of the posts that I have written over the last couple of months I mentioned how much more difficult it is to speak about and fully enjoy perfume and that I felt kind of guilty by doing so while there were reports of the numbers of victims increasing in more and more countries. Many of you send their positive words of encouragement – that we all love perfume and if it helps, it helps – so do it. Of course you were right! So I decided to find something that sparks pure happiness right from the start. Thanks to Hiram Green and his new perfume, this weekend I found my true joy.

Vivacious opens with a zing of bergamot that feels particularly green and almost biting in the first impression. For a short moment it smells to me like something else, bringing ivy or vines to my mind. Once that first feeling fades away, a more juicy, tart, yet bittergreen side of bergamot is revealed. It effuses a pleasant and joyful scent that differs from the usual hesperidic rendition of this citrus fruit, at least on my skin. This non-obvious opening doesn’t last for long and just a couple of minutes after I invited this perfume to spend the day with me, the composition started to evolve in a floral direction.

vivacious

As Hiram Green described on his website, Vivacious is centered around violet flower and is a nod to Victorian times. Little purple flowers were one of Queen Victoria’s favourites. Not only were they used to perfume fine toiletries but they also found their way into confectionery. Victorians enjoyed eating candied violets and using them in various pastries & cakes. They were also popular cut flowers used to adorn one’s outfit. In England of older days these flowers became a symbol of fidelity and modesty. All these various elements are beautifully reflected in this new perfume.

Vivacious transitions into its floral heart without any visible seams. Violet, like a queen, claims the center place on a throne almost immediately. At first the scent is more reminiscent of violet leaf as I identify something freshly green, crispy & with a little bit of dewiness. But then the flowers open up and the air is filled with their mesmerizing fragrance. If magic was translated into scent, it would smell like this. Violets here give off a sweet, pollen like aroma that feels delicious. It’s tad sugary feeling, quite edible but far from any definition of gourmand. Later on violet becomes more powdery and gains that characteristic facet that makes it feel more like a luxurious cosmetic.

Powdery aspect of violet is often associated with lipsticks, press powders and boudoirs. But when I smell this new perfume I completely don’t get that vibe. Instead Hiram Green Vivacious gives me some type of freshness that’s hidden inside. Somewhere in the background there’s also a smell of violet candy I remember from my childhood. Ah, nostalgia! When carnation joins the composition the floral bouquet becomes a little spicy with that charismatic fiery flair you might know from Prada Infusion d’Oeillet or Aedes Oeillet Bengale. The perfume feels warmer on the skin thanks to it & in my opinion carnation is also what makes Vivacious a perfume suitable for both men and women.

hiram-green-vivacious

I was excited for orris in Vivacious and I have to tell you that it makes a big difference. At the moment it becomes noticeable on the skin, the whole composition becomes incredibly elegant & sophisticated. Buttery, waxy facets of iris give the perfume a smooth, velvety finish with that luminous sheen. Light woody element of this accord makes me think of some vintage furniture piece – old but glossy & polished. Powdery amber in the drydown has a cosy, reassuring effect. It gives Vivacious warmth, as if you were wrapped by a fluffy blanket with a favourite hot drink in your hand.

Vivacious by Hiram Green is a bottled elixir of joy. It’s the kind of perfume that can brighten a worse day and bring smile to your face. I just love how refined and carefree it feels when you wear it. Not to mention that Hiram once again mastered his ingredients giving them so much energy that this 100% natural composition lasts all day on me. To me Vivacious is a celebration of life & nature around us – a path of light that will guide us towards the better days. Just what many of us need right now to cheer up. I seriously think I might need more of this gorgeous perfume. Vivacious is an eau de parfum and is available in 50 ml bottles. It’s a must try if iris or violet make you swoon.

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