Tag Archives: Infusion d’Iris Absolue

6 irises for festive season

Boom, it’s 17th of December which means that Christmas Eve is only 7 days from now. The time is really passing by and now is the highest time to get serious if you still haven’t finished your holiday shopping. It’s also a good time to do some general house-cleaning before it will be too late and of course some of the dishes require some time to be prepared or to “mature” for your Christmas Dinner. I know that in many cultures Christmas Eve on 24th of December is not as important as Christmas Day, December 25th but no matter how you look at it, it’s a special moment of the year. The food is special, you most probably wear some more elegant clothes and if you’re a perfume lover you are going to spend some time deciding what fragrance to wear for this occasion.

The fact of me being an iris lover is widely known to all of you, my dear readers. But if you give it a deeper thought, iris – as a note, with its noble and elegant character and with so many possibilities to interpret it makes for an ideal choice for a leading accord in your perfume for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day. Following that thought I present to you 6 irises that in my opinion would be a very good options as scents of a festive day. Presented in no particular order.

  • I decided to pick Atelier Cologne Silver Iris due to the fact that I find it pretty unusual iris. A situation where iris and black currant meet at the crossroads results in a refined, crisp and tart fragrance. It also has some ozonic dewiness of violet leaf as well as a little bit of citrus sparkle coming from tangerine. In this perfume powdery notes entwine with those delicately spicy and sensually attractive ones. You will love this one & who knows, maybe it will gain some additional values when it mixes with the scent of gingerbread floating around the room?
  • Christmas is also a time of decoration and sparkle. The trees that we bring home each December would not be the same if you couldn’t put some shiny & shimmering Christmas balls on it. Thus Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue is my second choice – because this perfume is like liquid gold. In this alternative to iconic Infusion d’Iris the perfumer enhanced the sensuality of all ingredients. Iris is very soft and buttery in it, with a rooty vibe. Benzoin, lentisque, vanilla and tonka add depth, structure and dimension. Even if it doesn’t last as long as its predecessor, it’s absolutely worthy the experience you’ll get in return.
  • Woody iris with a twist is what we like and what I consider highly alluring when it comes to festive attitude. Frederic Malle Iris Poudre might not seem to be an obvious choice of mine but come on… It’s uber powdery what makes it feel very luxurious, especially when it blends with vetiver and sandalwood. And those aldehydes, sparkling like bubbles in a champagne – they just add some retro glamour to this perfume. Musky tones when not overdone will embrace you and will provide additional portion of invisible cuddle.
  • There is absolutely nothing bad in reaching for oriental fragrance to wear during winter holidays, unless you are reaching for some serious heavy-hitter.I don’t recommend those. But Stephane Humbert Lucas 777 Khol de Bahrein is not a heavy-hitter. It’s a “smooth operator” as I call it. A combination of savory sweet notes, resins and iris is bewitching. The opening is lightly sugary and to me it reminds the smell of nougats. As it progresses it unveils luxurious-smelling resins and iris – dense, buttery, very refined and elegant. It’s a balsamic perfume with an aura that will envelope you in happiness.
  • Are you afraid of stepping beyond some invisible line of wearing a perfume that others might find too bold? No problem, why don’t you go with the classic thing. Namely – Le Galion Iris. Revived and remade fragrance, based on a recipe from 1937 easily stole my heart when it was launched in 2014. It begins slightly citric to evolve into a powdery being after a few minutes. It might feel like talcum for a short time but later the powderness becomes more pronounced. This perfume is colored white, because of lily. Galbanum, mimosa – they all add to floral and green-ish side of this composition. Very classy.
  • Last but not least I wanted to suggest Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris. This balsamic composition is starting with a bit cold and reserved iris accord that gains depth thanks to vanilla and amber. Incense, driftwood and myrrh add this unusual feeling of something salty, woody and smoky at the same time. Like finding a piece of old wood on the wild beach. Sugar adds a bit of simple sweetness, while ambergris and labdanum introduce darker and more animalic elements. But the perfume is blended so well that even those tones never become overly strong. This is a very well-behaved perfume. Suitable both for modern gentlemen as well as for slightly old-fashioned lady.

Which one out of these 6 would you go with? Or maybe you have another option? Do tell!

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Liquid gold, Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue

You all should already know that Prada is on the top of my favorite perfume houses list and there are quite a few things I owe them. Sometimes I wish they knew what a big fan they have out there in me. On other days I contemplate asking myself a question – where would I be today if I didn’t meet Prada back in 2006. Would I get into perfumery without it, would this blog even exist then?

In 2012 Prada launched the perfume named Infusion d’Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue. It was a flanker to Infusion d’Iris EdP from 2007. As much as I consider flankers a bad thing – Prada proves that flankers can sometimes be better than their predecessor and this variation on the iris theme by Prada is the best example of that. What was crafted really surpassed my expectations.

Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue opens on my skin with a full-bodied and voluptuous iris accord. Unlike previous fragrances in Infusion d’Iris line I don’t get much of a clean powderness from this one. Instead the iris I smell is soft and creamy, with a distinguished buttery facet that after a while starts to veer slightly in the carrot direction. However it never feels like a rotten dead vegetable.

15 minutes later the entire composition becomes more balmy and oriental at the moment when benzoin enters the composition. In Infusion d’Iris Absolue it feels material, substantial but at the same time it’s very airy and subtle. Many perfumes scare me because of their cloying benzoin. This Prada is a total opposite of them. After a while longer the vanilla joins the composition.

Vanilla accord in the golden Prada is interesting. To me it has a zero level of gourmand qualities. It’s more like it’s fresh, translucent. Moreover, when tonka bean appears on my skin, Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue starts to remind me of Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir at some point. Of couse this variation of vanilla plus tonka mix is much more subtle and not as warm or enveloping as in Serge Lutens perfume. Lentisque adds some Mediterranean spirit to the composition and somehow make the other notes shine. Here, at this moment I started to notice that iris is getting more powdery now, slightly reminding me of pressed face powders.

I find the drydown of Infusion d’Iris Absolue to have a calming effect on me. The harmonious smell of orange flower, combined with pure neroli and huge clouds of fluffy musk make me feel extremely comfortable, no matter where I am. I just want to sit on something soft, close my eyes and travel to Dreamland, where perfume grow on trees and clouds are made of candy floss.

I love Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue. Why? Because it’s Prada (duh!) and because Daniela Roche-Andrier made it and she’s definitely my favorite perfumer so far. There are just a couple of things about this golden-colored Prada that bother me a little. For the first time in my life a Prada scent doesn’t want to stay on my skin. Infusion d’Iris Absolue is gone in 4 hours when I use my regular number of sprays. But I don’t mind it actually, because those four hours are divine. I could re-apply but I don’t like to. Can you imagine me in the lab and disappearing in the hidden corner to spray some perfume? That’s a hillarious scene. Also, Infusion d’Iris Absolue is quite intimate scent, lets consider it a good thing. I prefer fragrance to be my personal pleasure, not something for the crowd.

All in all Infusion d’Iris Absolue by Prada is a magnificent perfume. It’s just another fragrance from the fashion house that doesn’t disappoint. It smells extremely refined and elegant. Kind of glamorous too. Maybe it doesn’t last on my skin for as long as other Prada fragrances do, but I give it my absolution. I’m very used to my Amber Pour Homme and Infusion d’Homme – maybe this is the reason why Infusion d’Iris Absolue doesn’t feel “mine” from the very first whiff. I would be happy if someone gifted me with it, in other case, a larger decant will keep me satisfied.

Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue is available in flacons of 50ml and 100ml. The bottle design remains the same as for all other fragrances in Infusion family. It’s the details that matter here. The perfume is tinged with gold-ish dye, the front emblem with Prada logo is golden too, as well as the cap, wrapped with a shiny textured paper of the same color. Concentration is eau de parfum.

I’d like to dedicate this review to Hajusuuri, for this is the perfume that gave a start to a lovely fragrance twin bond that we share since then, supporting and sharing perfume love with each other.

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