Tag Archives: Jacques Fath

Epicurean fantasies, Jacques Fath Rosso Epicureo

Epicureanism was a philosophy system coming from ancient Greece – that’s what I remember from history lessons years ago. Initiated by Epicurus around 307 BC, this doctrine treated “pleasures” as the greatest good but at the same time the recipe to achieve it was to live modestly and to gain knowledge. Rania Naim, owner of the brand wanted to work around a theme of “la joie de vivre” and such ancient philosophy felt like it’s complementing the attitude of living in happiness.

Jacques Fath Rosso Epicureo in its opening reminds me of a tart cake one would serve in spring/summer season. There is a splash of citric bergamot that also carries a bit of aromatic properties thanks to its zesty rind. Its juiciness is amplified by bitter orange. The latter one smells so natural and realistic that literally I’d like to reach out with my hand and grab a juicy orange wedge. Sichuan pepper is a surprising ingredient here as it adds a twist. A twist that is zingy and spicy in a kind of way that truly complements the juicy top notes. A little bit of davana add some dryness, reminiscent of hay note to my nose. Additionally there’s also plum for a feeling of rounded fruitiness. Add some black currant for a perfect combination that will electrify your sense of smell.

Start of this new offering in Fath’s Essentials collection is so pretty and complex that I just didn’t want to stop sniffing it when I gave it a try for the 1st time. Going deeper into structure of Rosso Epicureo you’ll find the abundance of flowers forming this unusually pretty and colorful bouquet. First you’re offered a handful of tuberose. It’s full of grace but at the same time it has its own temperament. It’s a note with a lot of presence. But for me, a person who doesn’t enjoy tuberose much, it was mesmerizing. In the background there is a summery Damascus rose, fresh and rich in essential oils. Smelling it puts a smile on my face. This fragrance radiates with endorphins.

rosso-epicureo

Continuing the exploration of this big floral bouquet you’ll find a soft cushion of orange blossom under a layer of tuberose and rose petals. Fleur d’oranger here is citrusy with a traditional white floral vibe and it also has this vintage-y touch of something indolic to it. Thankfully flowers in Rosso Epicureo don’t become beasty. I have to admit that they make a statement with their richness and intensity but in my opinion it’s the best thing about this perfume. As the scent dissipates, orange blossom gradually transforms into creme patissiere as ylang takes the lead. It’s creamy, I woul dare to say it’s slightly buttery. Thanks to it new Jacques Fath creation has a tropical twist to it.

As hours pass all these flower notes of tuberose, rose, orange blossom and ylang slowly lose their power. From a loud and talkative group the perfume moves towards more shy and whispering one as these florals mingle in the background more and more quietly. After few hours of flourishing glamour Rosso Epicureo begins to reveal the rest of its notes. When that happens the perfume warms up noticeably. Soft amber enters the scene effusing its warm, inviting and embracing aura. It’s followed by vanilla that is vaguely sweet but more oriental. Patchouli creates depth, allowing different layers of the perfume to differentiate & create a 3D structure. Finally there’s muscone, a molecule that adds a musky vibe to the drydown – a finishing touch that ties up everything.

Rosso Epicureo was brought to life in atelier of Luca Maffei who work on this one as well as on 3 other Jacques Fath fragrances that were launched in 2017 as a new collection. This marriage of fruity citrus, bold florals and a toned down base make a great combination of different sensations. It’s a great fragrance for spring but actually I’d love to smell it on a 25*C day – I have a hunch it might be just as good then. Rosso Epicureo has more of a feminine nature but I’m going to pretend I didn’t say it & I’ll wear it proudly myself. Sillage of this one is moderate while it lasts on my skin all day. This gorgeous, ruby-colored fragrance comes in 50 and 100 ml bottles. Would you like to try it?

[note] photo – my own; all rights reserved

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Perfume paradise of Esxence 2017 – day 2

First day at Esxence was truly exciting. I had a chance to talk to some of my friends (but not all of them yet) plus I managed to meet few new faces. As I was discovering I somehow managed to decide what I liked the most during day 1. I knew there’s still a lot to smell during next two days and I was happy to broaden my horizons. The fun was starting for another day.

Day 2 – Friday, 24th of March

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This day had an early start. Even though Esxence doors were closed until 10:30 in the morning people with passes could enter to get to the conference room as at 9:45 there was a planned talk show titled “The naked truth: Christophe Laudamiel’s Fragrance Manifesto: Liberte, Egalite, Fragrancsite.” Unfortunately the whole thing got a little out of control. It was delayed by 25 minutes. I had to leave in the early stage because I had a meeting. I wish I could stay and get to the clue…

The meeting I rushed to, leaving conference room behind me was with one of my favorite brands – Carner Barcelona. In Milan they were proudly presenting a new series of fragrances called White Collection. 3 fragrances that bear names of Besos, Latin Lover & Sweet William were developed with perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. These are floral compositions but each is really different. Besos has lots of powdery iris and it dries down to the scent similar to Nivea body cream. Latin Lover features ylang, magnolia and violet. Sweet William has dianthus and iris.

Next I stopped by Volnay stand where I met Muriel Madeleine and I learned that they are showcasing new fragrance called Mimeomai. I remembered it as a pretty fragrance, very positive and suitable for spring. It was a complex blend of spices, woods and floral notes.

After that I went to visit a booth run by Nicolaï. Patricia was busy but their press representative, Damien Flynn found some time to talk. He introduced me to the brand’s latest novelty – Rose Royale. It’s a rather simple eau de toilette, almost like a soliflore. It emanates of gentle, pure and innocent character. What I especially liked about it is pretty accentuated black currant note.

Then I made a stop at big stand that belonged to Histoires de Parfums. It was eye-catching I must say because their stand was made of some sort of paper harmonicas that were able to hold some weight without falling apart. Plus there was some source of light inside that made the paper glow with a warm light. Shame nobody noticed me when I was there to smell their new This is not a Blue Bottle 1.2 and 1.3. So I just smelled them and moved on.

When I felt that my legs are a bit tired I just made a casual stop to chat with Nishane guys or to chat with Pissara. I’m very thankful they had some time for me every day and allowed me to restore some energy at their stands, despite the fact they were so busy all the time. At some point of the day I finally met Val, our one and only cookie queen. I was indeed enamored to meet her again. I knew she was coming but with all the driving to Milan she didn’t make it there on first day. We sat, had a chat and laugh for a while. I also got a personal bag with some cookies (de-li-cious, way too little for my appetite!). As you might expect she was chilling out with Vero Kern a lot.

Just in time when I needed a break from sniffing, it was about time to revisit the conference room and learn something new. I really wanted to hear the next talk. Its title: “Staying ahead: how to remain creative in today’s competitive niche perfumery” (see it here) Lectures like that are really mind opening to my and I can learn a lot from them. Some statements made were quite daring and provoking an opinion exchange which is really the reason of such panel talks.

Later in the afternoon I managed to discover a new brand that had its debut at Esxence 2017. This Italian brand is named Naso di Raza and they had 9 fragrances at the table if I remember correctly. What was getting attention were the caps, as the cubes had some rubber wires protruding from them, forming loops. Luca Maffei and Cecile Zarokian each made 1 fragrance for them. I especially liked Giuseppe (by Luca) which was an abundance of neroli. Very pretty and summery scent.

After that I managed to meet Santiago Burgas Bou of Santi Burgas. He was presenting a new collection of fragrances named Palindrome. Two scents are simply named Palindrome I and II. Both were a bit smoky, resinous and containing a lot of spices. Not a bad stuff at all, especially that they were made together with Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

As the day was passing by I finally experienced one of the happiest people encounters you possibly could imagine. I met Portia of Australian Perfume Junkies. He’s a very energetic and quirky person. There were lots of hugs and smiles when we met. I also brough him a chocolate from Poland which I hope he liked. Even though it was a very short meeting as Portia appeared at The Mall only for 2 hours maybe (he and his partner preferred to do sightseeing in Milan) but I’m glad we finally met in person after so many years of following each other online.

At 15:00 I had a long-awaited meeting with Julien Blanchard and Madalina Stoica-Blanchard, a lovely couple who created Jul et Mad. This spring they introduced to the world their new fragrance children – a brand new series within Les Whites collection. Just like the previous one it consists of 3 fragrances however this time the source of inspiration lies in art, in three different masterpieces. Created by perfumer Stephanie Bakouche (I met her at the stand & it was actually her who told me about the fragrances) are Mon Seul Desir – an oriental blend rich in resins, spices but also with a great amount of osmanthus and orange. Other one made in her studio is Fugit Amor (my favorite) combines ginger,cardamom, carnation and loads of vetiver. With Stephanie we concluded that it smells fantastic on my skin but it also changed drastically on it, as it turned into fougere-like smell that reminded me of high-class barbershop soap. To tell the truth – I loved it! Final one from the atelier of Luca Maffei is Bella Donna a connection of mulberry, rose, jasmine, saffron and numerous other ingredients. It’s intoxicating!

Also on Friday I finally had a chance to discover Berdoues and their Collection Grand Crus. I really liked those simple, rectangular bottles with different patterns printed on the back side of the flacon to distinguish one fragrance from another. They presented new in the line named Maasai Mara, which blends notes of buchu, chamomile and labdanum. A truly interesting and unusual concoction.

at 16:00 I had a meeting with people from Jacques Fath. After this brand has been brough back on the market they continue to do a really good job in terms of creation and originality. This March Rania Barakat Naim, founder of the brand has presented a new collection done in collaboration with Luca Maffei. I’m glad I had a full hour reserved for them because when we sat down and started smelling & when Luca joined us we had many thoughts to exchange. Beautiful fragrances: Rosso Epicureo, L’Oree du Bois, Les Frivolites and Lilas Exquis are housed in simple yet pretty bottles and they have gorgeous colors of the liquid. My favorite was Rosso Epicureo.

Last thing I did on Friday was to meet with Masque Milano team. Their stand, adorned in lots of red looked very similar to the previous edition. They had this sort of square box area with a hidden couch that allowed you to sit comfortably and smell the fragrances in more peaceful environment. At the stand I met Alessandro Brun who invited few more people to come and listen to the story together with me. We’ve gone together through some IFF raw materials and accords used in two new creations from the brand and in the end we smelled perfume. Mandala is a smoky, heavy oriental that basically doesn’t contain any light notes. It just goes straight to the point. Times Square on the other hand is the essence of New York, it smells like make up, lipgloss, street food and city traffic. Bizarre but truly appealing.

In the evening Masque was throwing a party to celebrate their double launch. It was held at the ground floor of 10 Corso Como, a concept store & a cafe restaurant. After meeting friends and having some drinks we decided to stay at the very place for the dinner.

That sums up my experience of second day at Esxence 2017.

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