Tag Archives: Jo Malone

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 60 – Do you yuzu?

As I continue my search for the new perfect citrus that could join my collection I was inspired by Undina’s Search for the Perfect Yuzu and decided to explore this note myself. By a total coincidence it seems that yuzu is a very trendy ingredient right now as a number of brands have recently introduced new fragrances that place this citrus from Japan in central position. This post will be very much like Monday Quick Sniffs but this time it’s themed, hence Do you yuzu? as an alternate title.

Oyedo, released by Diptyque back in 2000 is supposed to surprise you with a zesty yuzu at the beginning. What I get right from the start is a joyous burst of lemon. It has a very pure, slightly oily feel on the skin – just like natural lemon oil. But after a couple of minutes something weird happens and I start to smell something sweet, with a grainy texture like sugar. It becomes slightly syrupy too, making me think of a cocktail glass that has been decorated with a sugar ring on the glass edge. After some time the scent becomes juicier, revealing mandarin notes, and also greener with the accord reminiscent of green tea. Thyme adds a herbaceous feel with a hint of hay.

Heeley Note de Yuzu created in collaboration with Maison Kitsune has an amazing opening. The perfume starts with a mouth-watering smell of yuzu that offers a blend of sweet and sour flavors served in perfect proportions. Shortly grapefruit joins the composition and stirs your olfactive impressions by adding some juicy bitterness. There’s a lot going on as for the citrusy tones but it all feels right and well-though. Sadly all of these molecules are the most volatile ones and Note de Yuzu dissipates quite quickly, leaving behind the marine tones of sea salt and seaweed. Drydown has some grassy, dried vetiver and white musk. If these top notes could last, this would be it!

I’m a fan of Parfum d’Empire but I have to admit that a sample of Yuzu Fou has been sitting in my drawer for a couple of years. When I tried it years ago it felt very sweaty but today my impressions are significantly different. It starts with an aromatic, fragrant facet of yuzu rind – which feels quite acidic but invigorating at the same time. After the first minute or two everything is softened with a delicate orange juice and lightly tainted with a watery fruitiness of kumquat. Lemon verbena adds a green tone to the perfume – lemony, slightly sharp & floral. Mint adds a twist of aromatic refreshment to the composition. After some time these green elements water down, which also extends to the bamboo accord. Soft & soapy neroli blends with musky notes & cedar. It’s a pleasant one.

In the bunch that is on my radar today Yuja by Jo Malone is the youngest, being launched only last month. As most fragrances from this brand, Yuja feels very airy and spacious right from the start. It gently unfolds with a yuzu note – a very pretty one, slightly bittersweet for a few moments but it quickly evolves and becomes way more floral – like a blossoming citrus tree rather than its yellow fruit. I’m not saying it doesn’t smell nice, because it does. It’s just a little confusing if you’re expecting a lively citrus. Yuja has a warm, aromatic aura provided by clary sage but it’s balsam fir that lends it a nicely green character with some mysterious depth. Cedarwood prolongs the life of this new cologne. Anyways after 2-3 hours it’s gone from my skin and needs to be sprayed again.

One yuzu, four perfume and each of them is a completely different interpretation of this Japanese citrus fruit. Lighter, stronger, more or less complex, some are more bitter, some more sweet. I guess this allows more people to find the one that works best for them. On the first impression Note de Yuzu is the most desirable, with that lush juicy yuzu opening. In the long run Yuzu Fou has the best lasting power. Alert! Nicolai released Eau de Yuzu – I want to try it next! The search continues…

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Weekend poll – finding a perfect theme

On Thursday I have written my last exam of this semester and this academic year. The results will be announced on Tuesday next week but I think it will be fine. It’s been really tough 9 months with lots of ups and downs but I managed to go through all the obstacles. And I just got an information that I have high chances for a summer internship (a paid one!) –  need to be a little bit more patient to have this confirmed.

So it looks like my summer is starting. At least theoretically, the weather is not like summer at all. Now I can devote even more to writing on the blog. Yay! And I’m also thinking about introducing a polish version of the site for the fellow readers from my country.

Few days ago I came up with an idea – I should do a themed week at Chemist in the Bottle. And by that I mean one week totally filled with new reviews. Seven articles in seven days, one posted each day. Do you like the idea? Here are my propositions:

  • Week of 7 scents – For a week each day I will post a perfume review of a random thing from my latest acquisitions. Believe me – I got some new samples in the last couple of weeks!
  • Week of Quick Sniffs – This is going to be a Quick Sniffs festival. Quick Sniffs 7 days in a row, not only on Monday but on every other day of a week. A paradise for quick sniffers.
  • Week of Annick Goutal – 7 days of writing fully dedicated to fragrances from the houseIt’s been a really long time since I reviewed Nuit Etoilee, maybe it’s time to change that?
  • Week of Diptyque – 7 Diptyque perfume reviews in 7 days, I didn’t review any perfume from this house so far even though I have quite many samples. Should I give them a try?
  • Week of Jo Malone – A tribute to the work of Jo Malone, week filled with scents created by her. Jo Malone week will smell light and simple, almost like pure perfume ingredients.

The decision is up to you my dearest readers and friends! Chose a theme that you think would suit you best, that would be the perfect one for you. The voting will last for the weekend and will be closed Sunday night. Then a winner themed week will begin on Monday, June 10.  Let the best win!

[Sunday supplement]

Thank you everyone for voting! The poll is now closed and that’s how the results look like. There were total of 55 votes of which the highest number, 22 (40%) was for the Week of 7 scents. Second place with 12 votes (22% of all votes) goes to the Week of Quick Sniffs. In the 3rd place we have a Week of Diptyque with 9 votes (16%). Annick Goutal ranked four, Jo Malone takes the last place.

With this clear statistics I’m happy to announce that starting tomorrow Chemist in the Bottle will be having a busy week, the Week of 7 scents. See you tomorrow!

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