Tag Archives: Jorge Lee

Romantic retreat, Nishane Ambra Calabria

Citrus is probably the most obvious and most common perfume choice for the summer. No surprise, since in the hot weather you want something not overwhelming and fresh rather than sticky and heavy. Even among citrus notes there are some that are more famed than others, like lemon from Amalfi or bergamot from Calabria. Recently I stumbled upon an interesting rendition of the latter one done by Nishane. I liked it a lot, therefore decided to share my impressions with you.

ambra calabria

Opening of this fragrance named Ambra Calabria has a certain tang to it. the citric & juicy aroma of bergamot is obvious and straightforward. It’s like a splash when a slice of lemon takes a dive into a glass of water. Interestingly bergamot is not really cold here almost like hidden in the shade. Actual shade appears after a few minutes. There’s a green, slightly sappy and resinous smell of galbanum as well as the green, rustling leafage. Described by the brand as green leaves, this note effuses a blend of sunny warmth and verdant aromas that bring to mind the smell of mediterranean grove.

Heart of the composition features a little bit of jasmine. It’s presented in a very light way – it doesn’t carry much weight. Its airy floral tones quite remind me of California Reverie, a perfume from Van Cleef & Arpels. this one and Ambra Calabria share some similarities when it comes to jasmine. Furthermore there is a bunch of coriander that was used in this fragrance. Its spiciness feels reserved and cooler than it usually does, almost as if it was in some sort of chillout mood. But it introduces that characteristic dryness, like a paper. It blends with jasmine nicely. It smells of relax.

The most interesting twist in Nishane Ambra Calabria hides within its drydown. Probably nobody would expect an amber note to be featured in this sort of perfume. Yet its there, soft like a giant pouf at the terrace. It also surrounds the wearer with a gentle warmth – it’s the kind of warmth that naturally emanates from your skin or a delicate sea breeze just before the sunset. Vanilla and musk melt with skin making it smell very appetizing, not to mention that the aspect of this concoction is very sensual. It’s like a seductive invitation to get closer to the person & to cuddle with them.

ambra-calabria-collage

Ambra Calabria is pretty unusual take on summery citrus, don’t you think? It’s also hard to classify. I looked up at Fragrantica where it is put into aromatic spicy group, while on Parfumo they group it with other fresh-citrusy compositions. No matter how you classify it, this Nishane smells good. As for an extrait it has surprisingly low sillage – you’ll have to smell your wrist close to the nose to recognize it, but it will stay on skin for most of the day. The perfume was developed by perfumer Jorge Lee and it was released in 2014. On the market you can find it in 50 ml bottles.

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Warm heart, Nishane Suède et Safran

Snow has descended upon my hometown last weekend, covering cars, trees, bushes and rooftops with a light and fluffy white blanket that was sparkling in the sunlight. You probably worked it out by now that I usually adjust my perfume choices to the season as I currently wear more leathery, ambery, woody and spicy compositions. I just like when a perfume wraps around me like a plush snake and makes me feel warm from the inside. One of Nishane extraits does the trick!

Launched in the initial collection from the house as 1 out of 14 fragrances in 2015, it took me a while to get to test and appreciate it. Isn’t that a common case that when you can choose among many, finding a gem takes longer? “But let’s get to it! Suede et Safran takes off from the skin surface with an incredibly musky note. As soon as it warms up it expands rapidly with a great sillage. This musk accord balances on the edge between skanky & animalic and pleasantly carnal, sensual. Luckily 2nd aspect is stronger on my skin – it has this undeniable erotic charm that is quite appealing.

From there it doesn’t take much time until the composition reveals one of its title notes – suede. Initial feeling is more like I was smelling leather, as the aroma is heavy and opulent, with a heady sidenote of tanning chemicals. It kind of reminds the fragrance of brand new leather shoes. After some time it softens & leather becomes suede – it smells powdery with gentle fuzziness, now resembling suede jacket in a rich brown color. Suede et Safran is a quite cuddly composition.

nishane-suede-safran

As time goes by Nishane Suede et Safran gradually transforms until it reaches a certain moment when 2nd title ingredient is noticeable. Saffron accord in this perfume is quite different. I usually associate its smell with some rich and jammy aroma, often coupled with rose. Here it smells more dry, very spicy in a warm manner. I also find something slightly oriental and medicated about it. Later a spicy freshness arises when ginger joins the composition to make it brighter.

Drydown puts a lot of accent on ambrette seeds that effuse a powdery vibe all around you. Ginger gives it a light freshness that goes on for a while until it fades away. Notes of Suede and Safran also mention caraway but I don’t smell it. Instead I get the impression of roasted coffee beans, gingerbread cookies and some caramel. It’s quite mouth-watering I must say. At some point those gourmand accents dissipate and powderness is the only thing left.

Suede et Safran from Nishane is a great fragrance, it wears especially well on winter days, when temperature is slightly below zero and the frost pinches your cheeks gently. It’s very warm blend should make you feel less cold. Plus – you will smell great for a whole day as it is very lasting. It’s an extrait so you don’t have to apply much for a good effect. At the moment it only comes in 50 ml bottles. I hope they’ll make travel sizes. This perfume was designed by perfumer Jorge Lee.

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