Tag Archives: L’Artisan Parfumeur

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 48

It’s been over 3 months since I last posted my Quick Sniffs! That’s scary and shall be remedied now.

mandarinacorsica

Following Bucoliques de Provence and Un Air de Bretagne, L’Artisan Parfumeur is expanding their Les Paysages collection with two new positions. And both made it to this part of the series. Starting with Mandarina Corsica, it begins with a beautiful mandarin note. It’s sweet and juicy in mouth-watering way, sunny & warm too. If only it remained like this… Really shortly it becomes very gourmand, smelling like caramel, burning sugar and citrus hard candy. Mandarin just drowns in this concoction. I don’t know how sensitive to gourmands you are but to me this perfume is dangerously close to a sickly sweet border. Blame it on maltol. Perfume darkens a bit revealing a patchouli-chocolate like facet. Immortelle joins the composition by adding some subdued spiciness but in my perception it also has that artificial vibe of a melting plastic. You know how much I hate that feeling… Finally we have some tonka bean. It improves my overall impression of Mandarina Corsica because it adds some milky, slightly woody facet (a woody pudding if you please) but in general I’d rather stay away from this perfume. Hope Quentin Bisch can forgive me for not liking it.

widian-black-iv

Widian (which was formerly known as AJ Arabia, by the way) originally launched Black IV in 2015 but since the fragrance became available in Poland only few months ago I sort of consider it as a recent release. This composition opens with easily noticeable blackcurrant note which is quite prominent as soon as you spray it on your skin. It’s a marriage of lightly sweet fruity elements with a lovely tartness that is blackcurrant’s ‘fingerprint’. Bergamot adds a certain tang to the scent and enhances sour, slightly acidic flavor of the fruit. Heart of Black IV places rose in a central part of the scent. It’s a big, red rose & a very fragrant one. It leans slightly more feminine because it’s presented in a sensual entourage of draped velvet. It is also surrounded by a bouquet of white flowers. No specific floral accord comes to mind – it’s more like a general impression rather than a specific aroma. Sensuality of this scent fully develops in the drydown, revealing a soft, plushy vanilla note (with a white chocolate undertone) followed by a creamy, mellow scent of sandalwood that feels very soft and cuddly. A lot of musk is braided together with vanilla and santal, plus there’s a bit of leather (more like suede to me) that plays on a more oriental tone. Widian Black IV is nice as my general comment, more suitable for women in my opinion. But at this price point you can have 2 other great scents.

mont-de-narcisse

Second fragrance that joins Les Paysages line of L’Artisan Parfumeur is Mont de Narcisse. This fragrance opens with a dash of black pepper that is sharp and metallic like a cutting edge of a knife. Spicy and warm facets overwhelm at first encounter but dissipate after a bit. A hint of cardamom adds some sort of a green tinge to the beginning phase. Not even 15 minutes later and the composition becomes leathery. It’s a heavy and dense, slightly acrid smell lined with a birch wood facet that has a specific smell. These 2 combined give me an impression of an asphalt. If someone didn’t tell me there’s narcissus in this perfume I wouldn’t have guessed! You can barely smell a yellow floral aspect, a combination of plant juice with somewhat milky, powdery tones. I think that it’s thanks to osmanthus that it became more noticeable underneath a leather layer. The latter one doesn’t give up until the very end but it becomes sweeter with vanilla and hay-like effect develops then. Aromatic properties of lavender appear much later and don’t play significant role. Smoked plum finishes off Mont de Narcisse with a dark fruitiness. This is a complex and intriguing creation by Anne Filipo, but it is not a narcissus fragrance by all means.

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Top 6 Perfumes for the Endless Summer

With temperatures as high as they are (and those are oscillating around 30°C) summer arrived in Poland a couple of weeks sooner than expected, an in my opinion – too soon. Will it stay with us in all its glory until the end of August? I don’t know but I have a feeling like I know the answer. But for now let’s shoo away all the black thoughts & let’s take what’s best for us in the season.

Summer has never been my favorite season but when I see people sunbathing in city parks of Poznań, or as they cool down as they take a dip in a nearby fountain I become more relaxed and I let myself be more loose. It is also a part of the year when not only I would reach for lighter and fresher perfume but from time to time I would be willing to experiment with the fragrance I wear.

lavender butterfly

Anatole Lebreton Grimoire
Who said that you cannot wear incense in the summer? It’s the time just as good as any other of the season to wear it. Plus the fact that it is paired with lavender – one of the notes that I favor during warmest months, gives this fragrance an additional value. A warm scent of lavender blends with more cool scent of frankincense to create fresh yet contemplative perfume. True magic.

Prada Infusion de Mandarine
Hot
off the shelf of mainstream perfumeries is the youngest member of Les Infusions de Prada family. If you’re looking for the most realistic mandarin orange perfume you’ve smelled in years, the one that effuses the juicy sweetness of the fruit along with the smell of twigs and leaves, then trying Infusion de Mandarine is a must. My review will be coming soon, I hope it’ll tempt you.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Un Air de Bretagne
In the last 2 or 3 years marine compositions made a big comeback after everyone got bored with them in the 90’s. Modern sea/ocean inspired perfume don’t reek of calone anymore but instead they surround the wearer with the cloud or realistic salty breeze, marine air or the smell of wet sand and seaweed. Un Air de Bretagne would make you feel as if you were at the Northern coast of France.

Santa Maria Novella Citta di Kyoto
This one is definitely not your average summer perfume, especially that it changes a lot. At first it smells of chilled violet flowers that gradually evolves into silky petals of Florentine iris. Background note of lotus creates cascades of tiny waterfalls that give off a watered floral smell. But when the perfume dries down it becomes more woody, almost smoky. A perfume like a real chameleon.

Aedes de Venustas The Perfume
Launched 6 years ago in a purple bottle with a zamak cap that’s now become a signature to recognize the brand, the first fragrance from Aedes is a wonderful combination of tart & crisp rhubarb, crunchy-green tomato leaf, apple, red berried and some incense. It’s still unique after those years. Memo Italian Leather would be great alternative if you prefer tomato leaf with leather.

Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling
Summer is the time to wear perfume that make you feel like having fun & that’s exactly what Bombay Bling delivers in my case. Its mixture of mango, lychee and blackcurrant with heady, almost tropical white flowers makes my head go dizzy with endorfins. It’s a fruity-floral composition packed with positive attitude and good energy. It surely is my favorite when it comes to summer fruits.

As short as the list goes I assure you that these are not the only perfumes I’m going to wear this summer. There’ll be plenty more, like all of the juicy citrus cocktails from Atelier Cologne or the ultra freshness of Jul et Mad Aqua Sextius. I also can’t forget about my mojito-lemonade like Aqua Decima from Eau d’Italie. Eau de Neroli Dore from Hermes is also my summer must-have.

What are your favorite perfume you wear between June and the end of August?

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