Tag Archives: Le Galion

Flourishing mystery, Le Galion L’Âme Perdue

I reviewed many different perfume in the past. Some were inspired by various places or landscapes. Others workes as a time capsule – they were meant to evoke a specific moment from the past. There are also perfume inspired by people, their good or bad fame. There is also a category of perfume that take inspiration from ingredients and nothing else. They are ode to rose, vetiver or pepper. And finally there are fragrances simply come from vivid imagination. They smell of flowers, places that only exist in the head of inspired one. But that doesn’t mean they can’t exist for real. Such is the case of a newest Le Galion perfume, a tribute to an imaginary flower.

My first experience with L’Âme Perdue brings forward a delicious tang of a citrus blend. I can’t smell much juiciness but there’s a lovely aromatic peel going on here. Lemon peel is more zesty & sour while mandarin peel is milder and tad more sweet. They are followed by some spicy elements that start to appear few minutes later. Cardamom adds almost nutty facet while at the same time cardamom gives the perfume some crispness. Couple more minutes pass before L’Âme Perdue will develop further into a white pepper note which I find particularly interesting.

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White pepper is in my opinion a unique one among other species of pepper because in a perfume it smells much less pungent, its spiciness is very toned down and has no metallic effect. It also has many floral tones that make it rounder. Its floral aspect in L’Âme Perdue transitions to datura that puts a creamy veil on top. Going further the perfume releases an elegant cloud of jasmine. There are 2 kinds actually – Egyptian and sambac one. They are not overly jasmin-ey – they possess a white flower trademark but no indolic elements. There’s more glamour and modesty to it.

Afterwards I could smell broom that introduces an old-fashioned dustiness to the complex structure of Le Galion L’Âme Perdue. There’s something slightly woody about it. To me it brings a picture of flowers mixed with some twigs. I didn’t smell rose that the brand listed on their website. Immediately after the jasmine part the perfume began to saturate on my skin, it was becoming more sultry through ylang-ylang. Its scent brough facets of something creamy, buttery, tropical. It spreads the aura of seduction and temptation. What I also notice is that a temperature of this perfume is rising.

L’Âme Perdue heats up because of the spicy notes hiding in its heart. Clove add this warm, slightly sugary spiciness while cinnamon makes it more vibrant, shimmering. There’s also an accord of lily that’s responsible for creating a more powdery vibe in this stage. At some point a candied fruitiness of plum appears and it instantly softens the scent. It’s also slightly smoked. Base of this perfume is going to hug you & embrace you like the softest plush blanket. Tenderness of amber make L’Âme Perdue very luminous and bright. Its radiant nature is a kaleidoscope of multiple rays of light.

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Benzoin from Sumatra introduces an element of fluidity to the newest Le Galion release. It’s resinous and balmy aroma enriches the perfume and gives it more intensity. It has a synergy with peru balsam. Later on honey appears as a layer of liquid gold. It blends sweetness with carnal desire in perfect proportions that are additionally accentuated with earthy patchouli. In the very end a sensual floral woodiness of rosewood provides a background to vanilla notes from Madagascar and Mexico. Oakmoss is the last ingredient that gives a dusty yet sophisticated finish to the scent.

L’Âme Perdue from Le Galion has an undeniable retro vibe. It feels stylish in an old-fashioned way and that fact puts it in the same category as Puredistance Warszawa I reviewed a while back. In case of L’Âme Perdue its complexity and olfactory profile kind of make me think of this perfume as something fitting for a ballroom gown with multiple layers of material. It feels very feminine but instead of overflowing with it, it’s more subtle femininity. Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux is a creator of this perfume and he did very well with this beauty. L’Âme Perdue has great longevity and rather low sillage. It’s eau de parfum concentrated and is available only in 100 ml bottles for now.

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Blooming inspirations of Pitti Fragranze 2017 – part 1

My summer holiday in Italy this year was a fantastic experience. For a really long time I had no idea where to spend my vacations so I’m happy that thanks to some research and tips found by my mom I planned such a great trip. I finally saw more of Milan, tasted a little bit of dolce vita during my stay at Lake Como & enjoyed my short stays in Genoa and Pisa. But most anticipated part of my Italian voyage was going to Florence for another edition of Pitti Fragranze. It was a true cherry on top.

I arrived early in the afternoon on Thursday, a little bit more than half a day before the show was starting. On the occasion of lovely weather I went for a walk to revisit popular Florentine places, such as Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, Ponte Vecchio or Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. This time I also went to a famous Santa Maria Novella apothecary & shop. It’s a beautiful place. I bought a bottle of SMN Citta di Kyoto, a gentle cologne combining iris with lotus flower.

As I was getting hungry I tried to ask my friends if any of them was already in Florence and wanted to eat something together. But it turned out that they either had different plans, didn’t arrive yet or were simply not interested in joining me. Just when I was ready to give up and just sit by myself and eat, I was passing next to a restaurant when I was spotted by Andy Tauer. What a coincidence! I joined him at the table for Aperol Spritz and a dish of pasta. We had a nice chat. We also met Sarah McCartney and Olivier Valverde. Florence was clearly being taken over by perfume people.

Next day the Pitti Fragranze fair was starting at 10 AM. I went there a little bit earlier but thanks to using Pitti App on my phone I didn’t have to wait for a paper press pass & was able to enter as one of the first. First round in Stazione Leopolda is usually greeting with all friends. First hour passed quickly and at 11 AM I attended a Mane conference of the RAW project. This time they focused on spices in perfumery, especially on pepper & sustainability of their resources. But before that I had a chance to chat to Olivier Durbano, who presented Labradorite, his perfume #13. It’s a smoked tuberose with some not overdone animalics. I also met Nicolas Chabot, a guy behind Le Galion and Aether. At his stand I smelled new Aether Celluloid, a fantastic iris with cashmeran.

When the clock was showing it’s almost 1 PM I went out for a planned meeting with Puredistance. The brand wasn’t attending Pitti this year but Mary Gooding and Nele Tammiste were in Florence to meet with some people. We went out for a lunch together. We decided to snack at a nearby cafe bar and it was the best decision. Each of us had a great piece of foccachia with tomato sauce and melted cheese, plus we had 3 different sweet treats. Puredistance is preparing for a global launch of Warszawa right now. I enjoyed meeting with them and seeing new graphics they made.

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Further explorations brough me to Andy Tauer. We laughed again because of our accidental meeting on previous evening. He has shown his new Tauerville Patch Flash to me which is pretty unusual and not very patchouli take on this note. There was also AT Attar in Tauer Perfumes collection. Andy outdid himself with the packaging. A 5ml attar is packed in a miniature pentagonal flacon made of blue glass. So cute! I also had a chance to smell his soaps. Loved mandarin one.

Gabriella Chieffo stand was eye-catching for another year in a row. Using metal fence, polyurethane foam and paint her team created an installation that was bringing clouds to one’s mind. A well thought background to present Quasicielo (‘almost heaven’) a lovely composition of tart citrus top notes with spicy, aromatic heart and warm, resinous base. At the end of the fair I concluded it was one of my favorite fragrances this Pitti. It’s not a perfect fragrance but it doesn’t have to be. It’s first perfume made entirely by Gabriella. Previously she had lots of help from Luca Maffei.

Sarah McCartney stand was nearby so I was offered a full presentation of Our Modern Lives, a new project next to 4160 Tuesdays. There are 7 natural fragrances inspired by yoga and different moods of the day, plus 2 synthetics that are free from allergens. You can mix & match, layer them. The idea is to select one natural and one synthetic and blend them. Body sprays with 3% fragrance (see photo) were quite nice already, but 10% EdP are also available. What is very attractive about OML are the labels, featuring gorgeous drawings of plants and herbs that match ingredients.

At a combined booth of Eau d’Italie and Altaia I was able to smell 2 novelties – one for each of these two brands owned by Marina Sersale and Sebastian Alvarez Murena. For Eau d’Italie they presented Rosa Greta. Inspired by a person of Greta Garbo and her love affair, the perfume is a delicate, feminine and innocent floral bouquet with dominant rose note. Altaia presented Tuberose in Blue, a gentle white floral, tuberose for non tuberose lovers as I called it after blotter test.

Among new faces that arrived at 2017 edition of Pitti Fragranze I noticed a familiar face from before. Barbara Herman was attending the fair. It was actually my first contact with her brand – Eris Parfums. I liked the idea of her initial fragrance trio, trying to create modern versions of big vintage perfumes. I especially liked Night Flower, which was inspired by Guerlain Shalimar. On the other hand the new release, called Mx. defies gender segregation. On my skin it smelled of super creamy sandalwood with a coconut tinge. It seemed popular, many people were buzzing about it.

That’s it for a round-up of 1st day at Pitti Fragranze. When you attend it for a few years there comes a moment when you realize that year by year you smell less perfume and you spend more time talking to people. We gradually become closer friends so it wouldn’t feel right to cut out the conversation after a few minutes. Yet I think I did my best and tried a decent number of new releases, especially on 2nd day of the show. More of Pitti report coming soon! Stay tuned!

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