Tag Archives: Les Infusions de Prada

Sophisticated Simplicity, Prada Infusion d’Iris

It’s only the fifth day of 2020 as I start writing this post and launches of 63 new fragrances are already listed in Profumo database. The number of of new scents has been growing or it maintained a similar level over the last couple of years. In the sea of fragrance from which each of us will try only a small percentage, what are the odds that you’ll find a perfume that will be claimed as a masterpiece of modern perfumery? Probably nobody can answer that question but all I know is that when Prada issued Infusion d’Iris in 2007, it quickly gained a title of a classic and cult fragrance.

A sheer and translucent opening of this perfume brings freshness of neroli and orange blossom. Though technically both are the same thing, the way they are processed results in quite different profiles. Neroli here feels brisk, kind of cold and soapy. Orange flower on the other hand is more intensive, inflected with white floral tones and oily undertone. There’s some naturally delicate orange sweetness that mingles between the flowers. Prada Infusion d’Iris additially has a bit of galbanum at the beginning, which adds a verdant, vegetal facet that intrigues. It’s an unusual twist.

The perfume has a seamless structure, therefore things change very smoothly. There’s no denying that powdery notes are a basic element that gives this fragrance its true identity, its DNA. Powdery accord of Prada Infusion d’Iris is unique. Powdery notes are often associated with laundry but even though here they create a very clean and fresh impression, there’s also something very elegant and sophisticated about this part. Iris plays a significant role in creating this pampering feeling of sensual & silky, powdery goodness. Mastic resin helps to give it more body, allowing this softness to linger.

infusion-iris

A perfume like this one needed a well-thought base to last longer. For Infusion d’Iris from Prada perfumer Daniela Andrier decided to pair vetiver and cedarwood. Both of these ingredients are known for their dry, woody-oriented scents but also for some sort of plasticity while working with them. Neither cedarwood nor vetiver overpower the fragile, powdery heart of the iris. On the contrary – they help it to stand out more. Incense was another spark of genius here, to add a bit of airy smokiness to the blend. Benzoin adds a lovely balsamic layer that on my skin is always in the back.

In 2015 Prada decided to reissue Infusion d’Iris. Color palette of the bottle and the box were slightly changed to match the rest of Les Infusion de Prada compositions but the scent is not 100% the same anymore. From my very subjective point of view the new version is still true to the original but is slightly more fresh. It also lacks that airy smoky feeling of incense that was a highlight of the first version. Simultaneously with new Infusion d’Iris, Infusion d’Iris Cedre was introduced. The latter puts a little bit more accent on woody notes and it includes the frankincense again in the formula.

It’s been now 13 years since Prada Infusion d’Iris was introduced for the first time. Years have passed but the perfume hasn’t aged at all and it still very much in fashion. I suppose that’s one of the traits of a masterpiece – it suits any person, any occasion and any time. It’s made for more than just a current day. To me there’s something timeless in Infusion d’Iris, but also in other perfume offered by Prada. It must be a talent of Daniela Andrier, who’s been working with the brand since the beginning. And I hope this continues for many years, for Prada is my favourite designer brand.

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Blissful Chillout, Prada Infusion de Mandarine

For the past 2 years I spent my summer holidays in Italy and I have to admit there’s something amazing about being there during the warm months. I believe it’s a combination of mild Mediterranean climate, picturesque landscapes, always relaxed Italian people and delightful gelato that allowed me to experience a little bit of dolce vita. Now I’ll be able to relive those great moments of past summer thanks to new Infusion fragrance from Prada. The latest addition to the line focuses  on mandarine – it’s a very evocative scent with true Italian soul. Let’s indulge in it, shall we?

Smelling Infusion de Mandarine is like making first morning steps in the orange grove somewhere by the Adriatic Sea coast in Italy. The air is still crisp after the night and citrus trees cast a gentle shade on the ground as the sun is going up the horizon. A light wind blows from the seaside & as the leaves start rustling peacefully you begin to notice how their scent starts to surround you. The scent is crunchy, green with a lot of freshness. Its aroma is very light and peacefully dreamy. Mandarin leaf and its citrus verdancy transport my mind to a summery asylum just for myself. It’s a pure bliss.

As you walk further into the grove you discover other aspects of the scent. After a few minutes among these imaginary trees the smell of mandarine start to pleasantly tickle my nose. Infusion de Mandarine presents this citrus fruit as tart, tangy, with an adequate amount of juicy sweetness. It’s slightly leafy as well. It’s absolutely mouth-watering & oh so delicious. The equilibrium of all these mandarine facets reflect the fruit so accurately that you just want to grab one and take a juicy bite. I’m convinced this is the most realistic mandarine accord I’ve ever smelled in perfume.

prada infusion mandarine

Over time green mandarine in new Prada Infusion reveals a slightly more acidic facet that is quickly neutralized with the smell of orange. The latter one is juicy and sweet. When you smell it you get the impression of something packed with vitamins and a lot of solar energy. Infusion de Mandarine develops even more tenderness and vivacity thanks to a white floral bouquet composed of neroli and orange blossom. White-colored flowery tones of both are married with different shades of orange, some are more, some are less vibrant but the overall effect is effervescent and full of happiness.

Over the entire day the impression of walking among orange & mandarine trees remains multidimensional and the citrus never becomes flat, even at the end of the day. The character of Prada Infusion de Mandarine sure becomes airy but it pleases the nose at any time. In the drydown the perfume feels even more radiant and cosy thanks to the opoponax in the base. It’s gently balsamic fingerprint, combined with orange, mandarine and the leafy part blends really well and create an imagine of a place filled with the sunlight, where you can relax and wind down.

Perfumer Daniela Andrier once again has shown us her talent for creating mesmerizing & gorgeous perfume again. Despite a short list of notes, Prada Infusion de Mandarine is more complex than one would’ve expected. It would be greatto wear it in the summer. This perfume complements Les Infusions collection in a very pretty way. At the same time when you smell its drydown you still notice Infusion d’Iris in its core. It’s unbelievable to build yet another fantastic scent that still keeps a part of its predecessor’s DNA. This eau de parfum is available in 50 and 100 ml bottle with orange nuances.

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