Tag Archives: LM Parfums

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 24

Today is the time to present the twenty-fourth installment to the Monday Quick Sniffs series.

Suffolk Lavender from Shay & Blue line is a really nice fragrance. In the opening it welcomes you with a very pretty lavender. It has both herbal and aromatic qualities. To say even more, there’s something decadently sweet in it. After 15 minutes the incense accord comes to play. It brings the dark, mysterious aura to the perfume, making this lavender smoky and a bit nocturnal. There’s also a nice balsamic vibe around the incense chord. Musc note brings something slightly animalic to the blend but mostly this accord has a fluffy and clean character, with just a hint of dirty molecules. The scent of melon is not pronounced intensively. It brings the feeling of freshnes to Suffolk Lavender and it doesn’t emanate the calone synthetic aroma. The accord of pine tree brings a pretty fougere quality to the composition. The specific aroma of pine needles blends very well with the scent of lavender. The pyramid of notes for this perfume says that there’s also a praline accord here. I didn’t smell any aroma of chocolate in particular but I did smell some sweetness in the drydown, which was probably this. Perfumer Julie Masse made a really nice perfume. Suffolk Lavender was launched in 2013 and it’s available in two sizes: 30ml and 100ml.

Chemise Blanche (English translation: white shirt) from Laurent Mazzone and his LM Parfums was launched last summer as a limited edition fragrance. It starts with a very clean and soapy musky aroma which brings to mind the way clothes smell after the laundry, when they get dry, hanging in the open air. After a few minutes some airy aldehydes are revealed, adding some sparkling sensation to the composition. There’s also a lot of iris which adds floral tones with quite a lot of powder. Some more substance appears later on when Chemise Blanche turns more balsamic. In this creation you will find benzoin, amber and tonka. The three of them introduce some soft and cuddly warmth that smells really nice but somehow it doesn’t suit a perfume that in my perception was meant for a carefree summer wear. The drydown unveils more aldehydic tones, as well as a lot of lily-of-the-valley molecules come forth. Here I got the association with a washing liquid, they are so often scented with something muguet-like. A little bit of mandarin orange or bergamot don’t really change my feelings about this perfume. There’s one more problem – it’s an extrait de parfum and this fragrance is hell weak. You can only smell it from the skin surface. Projection is minimal. At that price per 100ml bottle you can get 2-3 better scents.

Fatena from French niche perfume house SoOud is an interesting perfume of truly oriental character. It sets off as a balsamic duet of leather and oud, having a strong kick right from the start. The bold opening sharpens in the initial phase but then it becomes more well-mannered. Warm and spicy tones of benzoin combined with patchouli slowly evolve into lactonic sweetness of peach, covered with a sticky layer of delicious caramel accord. A bit gourmand-ish, yet very oriental. After 1,5 hours I could smell a little bit of muguet but it was quickly overpowered by labdanum, olibanum and pink pepper, which gave the smoky vibe to the composition. Saffron adds the lightness and volume to this part of development. After some time I could smell the fizzy ginger placed on some unidentified woody molecules. Many hours later some white flowers mingle in the background, with a musky base being smooth and creamy rather than wild and animalic. Elements of vanilla wrap the notes all together. This perfume has some edge, it projects nicely and longevity is not an issue. Fatena was introduced in 2013 and created by Stephane Humbert Lucas. It’s available as Eau Fine (EdP in 60ml bottle) or as Parfum Nectar (parfum in 30ml flacon).

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 17

Byredo Bullion is a really funny perfume to me. Probably because in Polish we have a word “bulion” (written with one “L”) and it means a soup base. Even though Bullion has nothing to do with bulion, I can’t escape the connection of the names. On my skin Byredo Bullion starts with a floral smell of tiny osmanthus flowers. To me the note smell like a green tea infusion, flavored with apricot. After 10-15 minutes it turns fruity with plum that is dried and smoked. Addition of leather accord highlights the smoky and balmy character that Bullion just gained. Some time later the fragrance gets watered down, maybe because of magnolia. There was also a pale woodiness of sandalwood and other woods, described at Fragrantica as “dark woodsy notes.” 5 hours later, in the drydown there’s a lot of musk, white and quite clean with a hint of spiciness sourced from pink pepper. All in all Bullion by Byredo is a nice perfume but on me it’s very weak in terms of longevity and projection. If somebody has tried it – please share and tell if the perfume sticks to your skin for longer than 6 hours. It was launched in 2012.

Ambre Muscadin by Laurent Mazzone’s LM Parfums was introduced in 2011. To me it opens with a tsunami of honey. In the opening stage there’s a lot of bright sweetness and luckily it’s not sticky or cloying. It just wraps around your arms and becomes warmer and warmer, softer and softer. Musk plays a significant role in this perfume. It’s sensual and erotic. Not exactly clean as it has some dirtier facets bringing to mind a view of sweaty, sporty body. Amber is luminous here. Not plastic at all but more mineral, slightly marine-salty with a noticeable tones from cedar wood. Later on vanilla and benzoin amplify the amber accord adding it more depth and weight. They add a creamy and slightly gourmand feeling to the composition of Ambre Muscadin. The notes of amber, musk, honey, entwine with each other creating a harmony of aromas. This perfume is potent and it never overpowers despite having such powerful ingredients. In the drydown of this LM Parfums creation I detect some woody aroma (vetiver) combined with sheer beauty of flowers (violets). I also get a hint of suede. Ambre Muscadin is a great perfume. Lasts for quite long and has a decent sillage that becomes more intimate after some time. Ideal for a cold weather.

Gold Rush by A Dozen Roses is an interesting perfume, a marriage of floral and gourmand flavors. First of all it starts with a refreshing orange blossom that has a really nice aroma. It lasts for around 20 minutes and then a sheer, watered-down and pink rose joins the composition to give it a proper dose of femininity. At 45 minutes mark I started to notice the creamy accord of ylang-ylang that was slowly evolving into a sweet’n’spicy mix of mexican chocolate. There’s a lot of pleasant milkiness in Gold Rush. The choco accord is really well made here. Then a forest fruit accord appears on my skin. Blackberries join the chocolate note and the desert is almost ready. Just add a little bit of woody elements, sprinkles of ebony and finish everything with a pinch of spices. Et voila! As much as I generally don’t like gourmand scents Gold Rush is quite acceptable thanks to the addition of woods and spices. Still, I wouldn’t wear it because I find it too feminine.

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