Tag Archives: Lubin

Monday Quick Sniffs – Part 49

lubin-malabar

If you’re a fan of Lubin (I am not, in case somebody was wondering) you might want to know that the brand has released a new perfume – Princesses de Malabar. The composition, classified as floriental opens with a gentle whisper of clean bergamot that quickly fades away, revealing a floral bouquet. Magnolia plays a primary role here, giving off a scent that is creamy, slightly powdery and flowery but in a watery way. However there’s some saturation to that part, potentially provided by iris that gives more body to this new Lubin. Later I smell peach so one would expect a fruity twist but no, instead of juicy-lactonic fruit flesh only the fuzziness of peach skin appears in Princesses de Malabar. Creamy and sunny ylang-ylang blend with amber and tonka to finally create the floriental accord that’s rather solar, warm and snuggly. Some faint jasmine can be picked at times but afterwards my nose mostly registers sandalwood, some white musk and even more fluffiness. Maybe that’s a cotton flower? This perfume is safe and sort of bland, not intriguing.

mem

MEM by Bogue is a composition that was introduced in 2017. The beginning is a soapy lavender note – clean and pleasant, that after a couple of minutes develops a sweeter, honey-like facet. A little bit further and the scent becomes more citrusy with juicy mandarin and more sour grapefruit. The latter one has a minimal sweaty vibe to it. On my skin lavender remains the strongest part of MEM for quite a while, turning more floral-creamy over time. There’s ylang-ylang and champaca flower to introduce that creamy, slightly exotic feeling. Later on the perfume turns more crispy and herbaceous. Peppermint or geranium can be noticed as well. Drydown has a nice sensuality and warmth. I get a generous dose of balmy, slightly boozy vanilla. It is followed by benzoin to add more oriental & balsamic touch to MEM. Woody base that focuses on sandalwood and cedar feels substantive and has a creamy finish. After a couple of hours I can still smell that soapy lavender from earlier but now it has a company of labdanum to make it carnal and smoky. Amber adds luminosity while musk, ambergris and civet create a fur-like effect; animalic but very elegant and toned down. It’s a nice fragrance but it didn’t make me want to go for more.

outrecuidant

I like Histoires de Parfums mostly for their 1725 and Rosam which I love and wear regularly. Last year they introduced a collection of three fragrances¬†titled En Aparte and Outrecuidant is one of them. This particular composition opens with a handful of spices that warm up instantly as they touch your skin. Pleasant fizziness of ginger, with its lemon-imitating yet more tingly scent promises a nice continuation. Cardamom drags the fragrance into more nutty, roasted territory of spiciness. In heart of the composition a rose blooms – its dark, crimson petals are saturated with fragrant molecules but on my skin it’s not pronounced as much. It’s there and it has depth but it doesn’t surround me. Appearance of frankincense leads to marriage of these two notes and such combo is well-known in perfumery. In late development stage Outrecuidant effuses notes of smooth, golden-colored tobacco mixed with dense, oily oud and earthy patchouli. Not a bad perfume at all but one of “been there, done that” kind. Rosam is better.

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Three days with new Lubin perfume trio

Few days ago, on Tuesday to be certain, I received a package in mail with samples of new perfume trio from Lubin respectively named Galaad, Akkad and Korrigan. I spent three days with those perfume and am ready to share few words about what I thought about the trio. Initially I wanted to write separate reviews but then I thought I might not have time for that so decided to review them together in a lovely quick sniffs convention. Hope that you’ll enjoy this read.

On Wednesday I sprayed some Lubin Galaad in the morning. This one opened with an intensive and powerful oriental vibe. I immediately could smell a generous dose of myrrh mixed with dense and balmy scent of copahu balm. From the very beginning I thought that it smells kind of plastic and somehow remiscent with something burning (burnt plastic).¬† Galaad quickly lost its sillage and focused on staying close to the skin. 20 minutes later I noticed some honey and it was slightly powdery. Few minutes later Lubin turned duskier with oud and tobacco. After a longer break from previous wrist sniffing I noticed that it became dry with touch of spices (cardamom). I also had a feeling of smelling something sweaty – must’ve been a rosemary. Lubin Galaad was made by Delphine Thierry, belongs to oriental woody fragrance family. It’s my least favourite from the trio. Fans of myrrh and balms should be satisfied.

The next day I decided to give Akkad a try, hoping that it would be just a little bit better than Galaad. It’s opening was very nice. It started with balmy and slightly salty olibanum which also had a delicate, transparent incensy aroma. Just a few seconds later Akkad became an amazing amber fragrance. It was warm, cosy, elegantly sweet. Really inviting. Around 30 minutes from spraying Akkad spiced up – ambery notes were still there plus elemi and cardamom joined the composition to make it even warmer. When I smelled vanilla I thought that Akkad smells like a good composition for a tasty gingerbread – both sweet and spicy. Styrax and light citrus notes gave some aromatic nuances to the scent while patchouli and labdanum gave Akkad a smokier finish. Akkad was also made by Delphine Thierry, it’s classified as oriental spicy scent. I enjoyed it much more that Galaad.

On day 3 of testing new Lubin trio there was only Korrigan left for me to try. I sprayed it very early in the morning, before I left home to attend some classes on Friday at 8 in the morning. Korrigan invited me with alcoholic vibe of warming cognac and whiskey combined with aromatic saffron and oud. It was also pretty enveloping thanks to ambrette. To me Korrigan smelled like a milky vanilla toffee or a creamy fudge, waiting on the table to eat it. Light amount of juniper berries and vetiver created warm, light spicy sensation. There was also a hint of lavender in the background, working well with other Korrigan ingredients. Cedarwood and leather, thought applied lightly in this perfume, are noticeable and nice. Lubin Korrigan is a oriental woody fragrance. It was created by Thomas Fontaine. It’s rather a skinscent than a sillage beast. Actually none of the trio is a sillage beast. Korrigan was my favourite of the bunch, ranking very close with a runner up Akkad.

As you can see my impressions are pretty different and I didn’t like all of new Lubin scents. They offer different takes on oriental fragrance family. As far as I’m concerned I’m not going to buy any of those three.

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