Tag Archives: Luca Maffei

Falling Leaves, Two from Jacques Fath

While some parts of Poland suffer from extensive snowfalls, frigid weather and problems they can cause on the road and in the city, here where I live we didn’t get a single snowflake. I’m not sure if it’s good or bad but I wish it was a bit white – it’s Winter after all. When I look outside the window it looks more like gloomy Autumn – heavy clouds hang low in the sky, it rains & everything looks grey and dull. This kind of weather brough me to finally trying a 3rd volume of Fath Essentials by Jacques Fath. There are 4 new scents. They all fit an Autumn mood in my mind.

Le Loden immediately opens with a generous dose of rooty vetiver. It has an aromatic feeling to it, slightly earthy but not very dirty with the soil. Effervescent spiciness of fresh ginger make vetiver stand out and truly shine in this fragrance. A hint of mandarin makes the whole blend softer and a little juicy with a certain tang. Pink pepper essence introduces mild spiciness that vibrates in a pleasant way and adds an extra facet to the aromatic impression. Further into its development Le Loden becomes green and crispy thanks to a geranium note used by a perfumer.

loden

After a while the perfume becomes kind of raspy, prickly. The feeling I get is still green but the shade has darkened. It could be a raspberry leaf, a new material that became quite trendy in 2018. I haven’t smelled its pure form so don’t know its exact characteristics. Juniper berry add a delicate metallic sensation of gin & tonic. Drydown is a little floral and creamy due to presence of ylang-ylang but it quickly moves to the background when curly, brownish leaves of tobacco appear. They spread their characteristic aroma – slightly smoky, stale, enveloping. Together with patchouli and more vetiver Le Londen turns woody, darker & gradually fades away in that form.

Tempete d’Autumne is like a cold-fighting recipe on a chilly day. This composition opens with mouth-watering juices of orange and mandarin that evoke the smell of Christmas preparations. When cinnamon joins the composition the character of this fragrance becomes even more festive. It smells delicious like an orange decorated with studs made of cloves. After a while this new Jacques Fath offering becomes very warm and milky. The longer it sits on the skin the more complex and intriguing it becomes. To me the milky phase smells like a home-made remedy a mom would make.

tempete-automne

Lactonic tones of milk entwine with sugary spiciness of cinnamon. This drink, which is additionally infused with sensually warm tonka, feels also slightly aromatic and has a smooth character. It also creates the impression of smelling something honeyed, sweet. After a few hours I could smell a bit of coriander combined with fresh & herbaceous lavender tones. The very drydown is more substantive and full-bodied – it has a pleasant leather accord to make Tempete d’Automne more dense and a creamy, polished sandalwood to finish the fragrance with sensual, hugging feeling. The scent lingers nicely on your skin. Additional notes of this spicy-balmy perfume include ylang and white flowers.

All in all a third installment of Fath Essentials is a pretty solid quartet of fragrances. They are not my favorites from Jacques Fath as I think I liked the very first collection the most plus Rosso Epicureo from the second wave. Still I think that they are worth a try, especially if you’re looking for something green, woody or spicy. In my opinion this particular collection evokes Autumn spirit in a nice way – therefore I think they are best to wear in colder months. Le Loden with slightly green juice was composed by Luca Maffei while brownish juice of Tempete d’Automne is a work of Cecile Zarokian.

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Italiamore, Three from Perris Monte Carlo

Summer is almost over and while most people already managed to forget they were on holiday and children are about to go back to school, there are still some who didn’t get a chance to enjoy their summertime away from work. Me included – but that’s about to change. Out of many vacation destinations I have never been to, for a 3rd year in a row I chose Italy for my time of a wind down & relaxation. This time I will visit yet another part of it. How could I not write about fragrances from Perris Monte Carlo inspired by Italy before taking my annual break from blogging?

cedro-diamante

Cedro di Diamante focuses on bounty of citron. This composition opens with a wonderfully juicy, freshly squeezed lemon aroma. It has an oily facet that adds more richness and intensity. Its take on lemon is quite sweet until citron and lime come to the center of attention. These 2 are also very juicy and lively but instead of sweetness they are built of several layers – One is fresh & green, the next one is more tart and zesty while another one gives Cedro di Diamante a tad more bitterness and acidity. It’s totally mouth-watering and drinkable (but don’t!) Verbena CO2 extract adds a lemony floral vibe that is more balsamic and harbaceous in perception. After 20 minutes the scent warms up. There’s a sparkling sensation coming from pink pepper (CO2 again!) and is followed by a fresh, citric tingle of ginger. Over time peppery vibe gets bulkier so that metallic particles can be smelled. Cedro di Diamante also features sichuan pepper which surely participated in strengthening this part of fragrance. I didn’t get very much of cardamom. After some time the perfume became rounder, softer and muskier. At this point I could smell some powdery iris serving as a background to the citrus main actors. And oakmoss created some duskiness built around shrubs and woods. A truly pretty fragrance.

mandarino-sicilia

Mandarino di Sicilia couldn’t be a composition built around anything else than mandarin. This fragrance doesn’t open, it literally bursts in contact with your skin, releasing a delicious cloud scented with super freshness. Invigorating splash of chilled green mandarin from Italy provides an instant mood-boost. So tasty that I’m salivating & so close to the real thing that if I felt warm breeze on my skin and heard leaves rustling, I would probably feel as if I were in Italy. Bitter orange adds even more flavor and its bitter facets entwines with mandarin sweetness. Some time later Mandarino di Sicilia becomes greener in a Mediterranean way. Paraguayan petitgrain has a dry green scent, reminiscent of succulents & it has some dusty facet too. Heart of the composition reveals floral notes – there’s a sheer and airy jasmine that makes the perfume more sensual and pretty. I call it a summer jasmine note – that reminds me of California Reverie by Van Cleef & Arpels. Of course there’s also orange blossom that introduces white-tinted freshness with a citrus background with a tiny screech to it. Contrasting with it and appearing later is geranium that adds a crunchy green vibe. Couple of hours later reveal the smell of cedarwood chips and some muskiness blended with delicate amber. Very relaxing.

bergamotto-calabria

Finally we have Bergamotto di Calabria, an olfactory nod to bergamot which at the same time is probably the most iconic fragrance ingredient coming from Italy. It opens with a very tart and sour bergamot scent. It’s quite pungent citrus opening at first but after a couple of minutes it calms down. When it does, zestiness of bergamot becomes much more pronounced and dominates with its aromatic molecules. Petitgrain and peppers (pink and sichuan) kind of create the impression of a jungle filled with lush verdancy with a spiced up feeling in the distance. Heart of this one is similar to Mandarino di Sicilia. It has jasmine, neroli and orange blossom but all 3 feel more saturated and definitely more acidic & zesty. When drydown kicks in I firstly notice the dryness of vetiver gradually taking over. It’s grassy, reminiscent of hay smell but with coumarin replaced by more woody, rooty scent. Lucky for me that it doesn’t smell earthy. Sandalwood and its substantivity smooth any sharp edges and allow a seamless transition to further elements of the base. There’s a soft, fluffy muskiness that sort of melts with natural skin odour but is enhanced with iris that in this case has a silky-powdery finish. It feels elegant and I have to say that bergamot is still there somewhere, even after couple of hours.

All three fragrances from Perris Monte Carlo Italian Collection are really well made. They are fresh, uplifting and effervescent, combining a traditional eau de cologne summery charm with modernity of other ingredients like woods and spices.To accent lightness of these compositions the brand decided to use sleek transparent bottle with golden cap & name plate. Bottle features brad’s signature white pattern that kind of gives it a frozen look. Cedro di Diamante was developed by Luca Maffei, Mandarino di Sicilia by Gian Luca Perris and Bergamotto di Calabria is their joint work. These eau de parfums have decent sillage and longevity but I still wish they lasted longer on my skin.

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