Tag Archives: Luca Maffei

Sumptuous beauty, Coolife Le Sixième Parfum

Does a perfume name play significant role when you’re making choice of your scent of the day or when you’re planning to add something new to your collection? I can’t say that it’s a meaningless matter to me. In my opinion the name of a fragrance should reflect the style of the entire composition, the mood it creates when you wear it. It can be completely abstract or can give a hint regarding what’s hidden inside. Names that use only numbers or letters usually don’t work for me.

That said, there’s an exception to any rule, right? That’s the case of Le Sixieme Parfum by Coolife. Its name only indicates it’s the sixth fragrance in brand’s range, which doesn’t really say much. It attracted my attention due to the fact that right off the bat it opens with a luxurious iris note. Forget a delicate, watery iris that is gentle. Le Sixieme Parfum has the power of iris concrete. Right from the start it effuses a buttery goodness that smells oh so good that you will not want to stop sniffing your wrist. It combines so many different textures. One time it’s more creamy, the other time more buttery. At some moments it smells more rooty with an earthy undertone and sometimes there’s even something mineral, ashy about it (reminding me of Aedes Iris Nazarena) just a little bit.

Iris is the obvious star of Le Sixieme Parfum. It’s in the center of attention for at least 1 hour on my skin. Later on I start to detect other floral tones. There’s a whole bunch of osmanthus that adds this elegantly powdery feeling that feels lightly floral. After a while it transforms into something reminiscent of green tea leaves with usual fruity smell of ripe apricot. It’s a luscious, mouth-watering smell. In the meantime iris is still very present, now starting to become more woody. Around 1,5 hours mark this Coolife perfume warms up, become a little bit more resinous & balsamic but it’s still full of light. This effect is obtained thanks to Ambroxan. At the same time it adds a sensuality.

coolifie-sixieme

Top notes of lemon and bergamot, that theoretically should appear at the very opening of the composition, they emerge this much later & it’s only a glimpse when they both appear and fade away. A whisper of citric zestiness is the only trace they leave behind. As we’re progressing towards base notes, Coolife Le Sixieme Parfum becomes more solid. It was solid from the start thanks to a thick, delicious iris but now it gains even more body. Cedar gives a woody facet that is sort of aromatic. There’s something sappy & resinous about it. Addition of suede make this perfume incredibly comforting. The fuzziness of a layer of suede feels very cuddly and fluffy.

The base has a little bit more of seductive oomph to it. There’s some labdanum in there – it gives that smoky facet that somehow feels very inviting and sensually warm. Patchouli creates depth in Le Sixieme Parfum & this depth is something that draws you into this fragrance, making you want to completely immerse in this scented abyss. Continuously iris makes this perfume ultra luxurious & elegant. Final touch to the scent is a little bit of musk which provides a carnal pleasure, a skin-to-skin feeling of two bodies entwined. It’s seductively wild, yet wild with good manners and excellent taste.

Learning that Le Sixieme Parfum was created for Coolife by perfumer Luca Maffei explains a gorgeousness of this fragrance. Luca has done some outstanding iris before (L’Attesa for Masque) and this one represents the same, top class mastery of the precious ingredient such as iris. Additional notes I didn’t detect include pink pepper and jasmine. Le Sixieme Parfum is available in eau de parfum concentration in a 50 ml bottle size. Longevity is wonderful & sillage is moderate, becoming smaller after a few minutes. If I turned you into iris lover, you need to try it!

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Epicurean fantasies, Jacques Fath Rosso Epicureo

Epicureanism was a philosophy system coming from ancient Greece – that’s what I remember from history lessons years ago. Initiated by Epicurus around 307 BC, this doctrine treated “pleasures” as the greatest good but at the same time the recipe to achieve it was to live modestly and to gain knowledge. Rania Naim, owner of the brand wanted to work around a theme of “la joie de vivre” and such ancient philosophy felt like it’s complementing the attitude of living in happiness.

Jacques Fath Rosso Epicureo in its opening reminds me of a tart cake one would serve in spring/summer season. There is a splash of citric bergamot that also carries a bit of aromatic properties thanks to its zesty rind. Its juiciness is amplified by bitter orange. The latter one smells so natural and realistic that literally I’d like to reach out with my hand and grab a juicy orange wedge. Sichuan pepper is a surprising ingredient here as it adds a twist. A twist that is zingy and spicy in a kind of way that truly complements the juicy top notes. A little bit of davana add some dryness, reminiscent of hay note to my nose. Additionally there’s also plum for a feeling of rounded fruitiness. Add some black currant for a perfect combination that will electrify your sense of smell.

Start of this new offering in Fath’s Essentials collection is so pretty and complex that I just didn’t want to stop sniffing it when I gave it a try for the 1st time. Going deeper into structure of Rosso Epicureo you’ll find the abundance of flowers forming this unusually pretty and colorful bouquet. First you’re offered a handful of tuberose. It’s full of grace but at the same time it has its own temperament. It’s a note with a lot of presence. But for me, a person who doesn’t enjoy tuberose much, it was mesmerizing. In the background there is a summery Damascus rose, fresh and rich in essential oils. Smelling it puts a smile on my face. This fragrance radiates with endorphins.

rosso-epicureo

Continuing the exploration of this big floral bouquet you’ll find a soft cushion of orange blossom under a layer of tuberose and rose petals. Fleur d’oranger here is citrusy with a traditional white floral vibe and it also has this vintage-y touch of something indolic to it. Thankfully flowers in Rosso Epicureo don’t become beasty. I have to admit that they make a statement with their richness and intensity but in my opinion it’s the best thing about this perfume. As the scent dissipates, orange blossom gradually transforms into creme patissiere as ylang takes the lead. It’s creamy, I woul dare to say it’s slightly buttery. Thanks to it new Jacques Fath creation has a tropical twist to it.

As hours pass all these flower notes of tuberose, rose, orange blossom and ylang slowly lose their power. From a loud and talkative group the perfume moves towards more shy and whispering one as these florals mingle in the background more and more quietly. After few hours of flourishing glamour Rosso Epicureo begins to reveal the rest of its notes. When that happens the perfume warms up noticeably. Soft amber enters the scene effusing its warm, inviting and embracing aura. It’s followed by vanilla that is vaguely sweet but more oriental. Patchouli creates depth, allowing different layers of the perfume to differentiate & create a 3D structure. Finally there’s muscone, a molecule that adds a musky vibe to the drydown – a finishing touch that ties up everything.

Rosso Epicureo was brought to life in atelier of Luca Maffei who work on this one as well as on 3 other Jacques Fath fragrances that were launched in 2017 as a new collection. This marriage of fruity citrus, bold florals and a toned down base make a great combination of different sensations. It’s a great fragrance for spring but actually I’d love to smell it on a 25*C day – I have a hunch it might be just as good then. Rosso Epicureo has more of a feminine nature but I’m going to pretend I didn’t say it & I’ll wear it proudly myself. Sillage of this one is moderate while it lasts on my skin all day. This gorgeous, ruby-colored fragrance comes in 50 and 100 ml bottles. Would you like to try it?

[note] photo – my own; all rights reserved

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