Tag Archives: Luca Maffei

Dusty trinket, Jacques Fath L’Orée du Bois

Frigid weather that stayed around for the last week finally decided to move and today it’s supposed to be the first day with a temperature above zero during the day. There was no snow where I live but because of such cold you couldn’t see any sign of upcoming spring awakening. That’s why I decided to look for it among my perfume and found one that represents a transition to a new start. A woody perfume that is warm and that quietly whispers a promise of sun and flowers to your ear. The composition comes from Jacques Fath, a brand that I really like since its revival few years ago.

Initially L’Orée du Bois makes an impression of a fresh and joyful perfume. A blend of bergamot and yellow mandarin gives it a nicely lively kick-off. On my skin it has a slightly green tinge because bergamot is slightly more pronounced here than mandarin. There’s not as much juiciness in the opening but there’s a plenty of zestiness. It smells like just peeled citrus and its slowly drying rind. It’s aromatic in a pleasant way – not too screechy or acidic. There’s even some sweetness to it. As for this kind of impression it remains quiet, perhaps thanks to neroli and its clean, white flower calming properties. That floral nuance also makes the composition smoother and ready to move on.

You could say that neroli was a prelude, an introduction to a floral wave that is about to hit the shore (or our noses, in this case) with its aroma. Just a couple of minutes later L’Orée du Bois literally blooms with hundrets of mimosa pom-poms. These tiny yellow flowers are now all around me & I feel transported to a beautiful garden somewhere in the South of France. In this perfume mimosa is so radiant, like a lot of mini suns that fill your body with a new energy thanks to their yellow-colored, sweet pollen scent. Absolute of orange blossom improves this lovely feeling with a little bit of flowery-citrus combo (with a not to petitgrain). I have to admit that you can get drunk on this fragrance part.

oree-du-bois

Later on ylang-ylang joins the composition & while mimosa is still very present it gradually becomes more creamy. This creaminess doesn’t smell tropical or sweet – it’s still floral but in a different way. At the point when broom absolute appears, L’Orée du Bois starts to evolve – developing a new olfactory direction. Broom is an interesting shrub because as I have noticed in several other fragrances, it introduces a dusty impression. This very Jacques Fath creation is no exception. Broom is overpowering mimosa now, making the perfume feel slightly aged, decadent & covered with dust. But there’s even more complexity to it as I also get bits of shaved wood and hay when I smell it.

Going down the complex structure of L’Orée du Bois we’ll eventually reach a base of the composition. After broom gave the impression of going to the attic to find a lost trinket now it feels like there were more secrets to discover. Firstly there’s warm but quite dry saffron that is followed by a tingling spiciness of cinnamon bark. You will notice how the perfume thickens and its aroma becomes more dense. Then I get a whiff of golden honey and a hint of cumin. It feels syrupy and quite animalic, carnal – even if it’s only for a brief moment while it lasts. That part quickly disappears covered by a fluffy blanket of cashmeran and soft, sensual musk. Amber and sandalwood give some brightness and a solid frame to the perfume – like a ray of light peeking through an old window.

L’Orée du Bois from Jacques Fath is a well-done fragrance that I’m definitely willing to pay more attention in spring time. Despite having some dim, murky elements I look at it from its bright side – especially mimosa which was gorgeous here. Just like other 3 essentials launched by the brand in 2017 it was done by perfumer Luca Maffei. In case of this fragrance a theme of la joie de vivre was translated into a shabby chic meets avant garde meets modernism oddity. But the result is great. Brand also adds a note that L’Orée du Bois was a wedding dress designed by Jacques Fath for Rita Hayworth. This parfum comes in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles. Silage is moderate and longevity is fine.

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Sumptuous beauty, Coolife Le Sixième Parfum

Does a perfume name play significant role when you’re making choice of your scent of the day or when you’re planning to add something new to your collection? I can’t say that it’s a meaningless matter to me. In my opinion the name of a fragrance should reflect the style of the entire composition, the mood it creates when you wear it. It can be completely abstract or can give a hint regarding what’s hidden inside. Names that use only numbers or letters usually don’t work for me.

That said, there’s an exception to any rule, right? That’s the case of Le Sixieme Parfum by Coolife. Its name only indicates it’s the sixth fragrance in brand’s range, which doesn’t really say much. It attracted my attention due to the fact that right off the bat it opens with a luxurious iris note. Forget a delicate, watery iris that is gentle. Le Sixieme Parfum has the power of iris concrete. Right from the start it effuses a buttery goodness that smells oh so good that you will not want to stop sniffing your wrist. It combines so many different textures. One time it’s more creamy, the other time more buttery. At some moments it smells more rooty with an earthy undertone and sometimes there’s even something mineral, ashy about it (reminding me of Aedes Iris Nazarena) just a little bit.

Iris is the obvious star of Le Sixieme Parfum. It’s in the center of attention for at least 1 hour on my skin. Later on I start to detect other floral tones. There’s a whole bunch of osmanthus that adds this elegantly powdery feeling that feels lightly floral. After a while it transforms into something reminiscent of green tea leaves with usual fruity smell of ripe apricot. It’s a luscious, mouth-watering smell. In the meantime iris is still very present, now starting to become more woody. Around 1,5 hours mark this Coolife perfume warms up, become a little bit more resinous & balsamic but it’s still full of light. This effect is obtained thanks to Ambroxan. At the same time it adds a sensuality.

coolifie-sixieme

Top notes of lemon and bergamot, that theoretically should appear at the very opening of the composition, they emerge this much later & it’s only a glimpse when they both appear and fade away. A whisper of citric zestiness is the only trace they leave behind. As we’re progressing towards base notes, Coolife Le Sixieme Parfum becomes more solid. It was solid from the start thanks to a thick, delicious iris but now it gains even more body. Cedar gives a woody facet that is sort of aromatic. There’s something sappy & resinous about it. Addition of suede make this perfume incredibly comforting. The fuzziness of a layer of suede feels very cuddly and fluffy.

The base has a little bit more of seductive oomph to it. There’s some labdanum in there – it gives that smoky facet that somehow feels very inviting and sensually warm. Patchouli creates depth in Le Sixieme Parfum & this depth is something that draws you into this fragrance, making you want to completely immerse in this scented abyss. Continuously iris makes this perfume ultra luxurious & elegant. Final touch to the scent is a little bit of musk which provides a carnal pleasure, a skin-to-skin feeling of two bodies entwined. It’s seductively wild, yet wild with good manners and excellent taste.

Learning that Le Sixieme Parfum was created for Coolife by perfumer Luca Maffei explains a gorgeousness of this fragrance. Luca has done some outstanding iris before (L’Attesa for Masque) and this one represents the same, top class mastery of the precious ingredient such as iris. Additional notes I didn’t detect include pink pepper and jasmine. Le Sixieme Parfum is available in eau de parfum concentration in a 50 ml bottle size. Longevity is wonderful & sillage is moderate, becoming smaller after a few minutes. If I turned you into iris lover, you need to try it!

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