Tag Archives: Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Duet

Modern world of perfumery is a little bit like a sinusoid. One moment you embrace the femininity or worship the strength of a man. All this only to turn by 180° the next moment and go back to the talk that you can be anything you’d want to be & that gender doesn’t matter. Following that thought perfumer Francis Kurkdjian started working on two new fragrances that would have the same DNA, but would create different gender fluid scent portraits. Both fragrances share the same name and are to be differentiated by the way it has been written on the bottle. Let’s get to smelling them now.

Gentle fluidity (majuscule G, minuscule f, silver details flacon) starts with a cold-as-ice note of juniper berry. The perfume starts very aromatic and spacious but it has a very chilly effect to it. The way it smells immediately makes me think of a glass of gin with ice cubes clanging against glass walls. Just add an olive and you could almost drink this, as it smells almost like gin & tonic. Since it’s juniper there’s also a metallic facet that accentuates the frigid opening of Gentle fluidity even more.

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Slowly and after some time the silver edition of Gentle fluidity (very accurate choice of silver for this cold impression) starts evolving. It doesn’t feel as cold as earlier but a juniper note is still present on skin. However the fragrance begins to develop a slightly balmy and gently spicy facet. Freshness of juniper gradually creates room for a vibrant and somewhat dry (think paper dry) note of nutmeg. Paired with coriander seed which creates slightly warmer, comfortable aura around the wearer. For me it’s a smart fragrance for a man in a suit.

This combination of dryness and spiciness, lined with continuously present juniper in the 2nd plan, lead to the base of Gentle fluidity. That particular part of new Maison Francis Kurkdjian creation highlights some woody accents – but they are quite lightweight, not hefty at all. There’s something ambery hiding deeper in the drydown, at different moments I could catch more balsamic or more sweet nuances floating around my wrists. This perfume is powerful and delicate at the same time. More smart and elegant than outgoing.

gentle Fluidity (minuscule g, majuscule F, golden details flacon) smells like a completely different perfume despite sharing the same notes with a silver version. Right after I spray it on my skin this fragrance offers me a delicious accord of vanilla. It’s very smooth & luxurious. It actually brings to mind a flavor of creme brulee coming from a workshop of famous patissier. It’s a very rich, mouth-watering & sensorial experience for the palate and, at the same time it doesn’t feel overpowering.

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This vanilla, apart from being incredibly sensual and comforting also brings forward a delicate facet or caramelized sugar on top of this perfume-dessert. gentle Fluidity later develops a sort of a background floral note that to me smells like orchid. After some time a soft and embracing spiciness emerges, highlighting the presence of coriander seed in the new Maison Francis Kurkdjian scent. I find this vanillic goodness to be incredibly appealing, its ethereal and rich in its unique way. It’s like an invisible caress, lika a cocoon.

Deriving directly from a custardy vanilla is the abundance of musk, fragrancing the air around the wearer. With its soft & fuzzy character it feels very comforting and cozy. Right from the very beginning gentle Fluidity could be described as having incredible radiance – it’s full of luminosity. As hours go by the scent becomes even warmer, bringing up some ambery woods. Their oriental, woody aroma makes the perfume linger on skin for many hours. Golden color is so well-fitting to a perfume brimming with femininity.

To me a new Maison Francis Kurkdjian duet of Gentle fluidity and gentle Fluidity is a perfect example of creating a perfume is in fact a little bit of an… experiment. A small change of proportion, of a ratio between the ingredients can lead to a completely different composition. According to the brand both new scents comprise of the same 49 elements but Francis Kurkdjian highlights only 6. It’s a different way of accentuating those six that lead to two separate olfactive experiences. I think both versions are great but I’d choose golden version over the silver one. Mostly because it’s so cuddly.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 46

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian recently issued Aqua Celestia Forte, which is a flanker to Aqua Celestia introduced in 2017. I think forte is meant to be stronger and it’s just how it seems to be. It unfolds with a lightweight lime note that brings a little burst of juiciness to the skin. Shortly it is followed by blackcurrant. But instead of using a fruit the perfumer decided to use its bud. As a result a new green facet appears in the composition and it has a little bit of tarness – similar to the one that blackcurrant as a fruit provides. Addition of petitgrain brings more of a crispy freshness to Aqua Celestia Forte while mint makes it more invigorating and ice-chilled. Clean musky softness wraps around the wholeness of this MFK scent like a puff of fluffy cotton. Additional hints of mimosa and jasmine introduce a soft floral sensation but it’s very fleeting and barely there. I admit that Aqua Celestia Forte has more presence on skin than its predecessor. On the other hand I don’t think that this kind of perfume is worth its price tag. But the perfume is nice in general.

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Latest composition introduced by Olfactive Studio is Flash Back in New York. It borrows part of its name from Flash Back (2013) but is a completely different perfume and shouldn’t be considered a flanker. Inspired by a photo of New York City in a snow storm the perfume is meant to present a contrast between cold and warm elements. At first the perfume is spicy, with a lot of saffron, bit of cumin and clary sage that make it feel more masculine. Then I get a whole lot of violet flower. On my skin it really becomes an overwhelming part of the perfume & through its dewiness it smells cold. Later a leather accord kicks in – it’s rather strong and bold. A dark leather that entwines with the smell of birch tar. As I see the progress of Flash Back in New York the perfume becomes dry, peppery. We have vetiver and papyrus that give this impression. In the drydown the fragrance becomes more aromatic & creamy thanks to tonka. Additional notes that slipped my attention include jasmine and cotton flower. Perfumer behind it is Jerome Epinette.

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I have a feeling that Kilian has a lot of liking for exclusive fragrances and limited editions of some. The last one that I learned about is named Miami Vice (rolls eyes) and features two fragrances ‘inspired by the sun, sin and style of the city of Miami’. Love the Way You Taste is a straightforward evocation of mojito. It starts with a vibrant mint accord that is very green, aromatic (almost fougere, like fern) and has quite a resemblance of basil leaves. This scent makes a pairing with zesty lemon to provide explosive freshness that really is similar to mojito cocktail. Addition of magnolia makes the composition slightly milder although floral-lemony signature of magnolia matches this theme really well. More green elements introduce dewiness. Vetiver in the base makes Love the Way You Taste feel more grassy and it also provides a specific dryness that could remind of gin scent. The perfume indeed has something that gives it its alcoholic vibe. Otherwise this limited edition from Kilian is a simple, non complicated fragrance that mimics a popular beverage is a nice way. In this case I also have a feeling that price tag is way too high. Sidonie Lancesseur is the perfumer who created this limited edition fragrance.

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