Paris 1948 sets off with a lactonic peach accord that immediately brings in the retro vibe. It’s a combination of juicy fruit flesh inside and of a fuzzy skin on the outside. Shortly the fruitiness is followed by a grapefruit note with its characteristic tartness and zesty smell. Not long overdue is a basil that adds a fresh, summery verdancy to the perfume. Heart of this 4160 Tuesdays composition combines floral and woody notes. Rose is presented here as a multi-layer dress from the past epoque, rosy tones are entwined with something dusty and a little bit old. Orange blossom adds a bit of lightness and richness here, while cedarwood and rosewood create a charming substance of the perfume, again with an old-fashioned edge to it. Addition of honey adds something glossy to Paris 1948 yet at the same time there’s something animalic to it. Musk and labdanum confirm this wilder element appearing on my skin. It’s resinous, balmy, slightly dirty. Hay adds some dryness with a coumarin undertone. Oakmoss note and its shrub-like scent with a bit of mustiness completes this woody chypre fragrance. Despite putting Paris in the name of this fragrance I imagine this scent as a good companion for a stroll around a foggy London.
For me Maison Francis Kurkdjian is one of those brands that worked for me once (with Grand Soir) and any other time was just okay-ish. Now that the brand is owned by LVMH they make sure that any bestseller is then introduced in a different concentration or as a matching body product – all that to make more money on the scent. Hence no surprise that Amyris Femme was just introduced in extrait de parfum strength. Its composition opens with a floral freshness. There’s a bit of dewiness and something citrusy to this mandarin blossom note. After a moment it becomes more fruity, when pear joins – adding a smooth scent of ripe fruit. It doesn’t take very long until iris joins. Amyris Femme offers a very feminine rendition of this flower. It’s powdery, sensual and kind of musky. Jasmine absolute introduces some solar energy and a bit of lightness. Over time this perfume turns really, really sweet – to the point that it reminds me of a marshmallow or some other sugar puff. Amberwood molecule adds a warm and gentle ambery facet while amyris adds more substance to the blend through the introduction of the woody element. The perfume has a moderate power and its sillage is rather skin-bound. Did we really need this iteration of MFK Amyris Femme?
Courtesy of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz I have a chance to try a bunch of fragrances she composes in her studio, based in Boulder, Colorado, USA. Encouraged by comments from other fans of DSH, White Rabbits is the first fragrance I decided to test. Immediately after rolling this sample on my skin I got a feeling that this perfume is going to stay quite vegetal for its entire lifespan, and I wasn’t mistaken. For the first 2-3 minutes I smell a fresh carrot note that is also rather juicy and has all the soil washed off it. After a few minutes White Rabbits reveal a bounty of iris goodness. The perfume becomes almost a soliflore, filling your nose with orris scent. And it’s a gorgeous one. It has a soft texture of the butter and a slightly fatty, rich scent reminiscent of butter as well. But on the other hand it’s also a powdery one with a rooty facet. It sure is a fluffy scent – if rabbits fur really smelled like this I suppose I would’ve had a herd of them by now. Over time the green, resiny angelica adds to the scent. Ambrette, also known as musk mallow adds a vegetal musky vibe that pairs very well with iris and entire composition of White Rabbits.