Tag Archives: Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 58

paris1948

Paris 1948 sets off with a lactonic peach accord that immediately brings in the retro vibe. It’s a combination of juicy fruit flesh inside and of a fuzzy skin on the outside. Shortly the fruitiness is followed by a grapefruit note with its characteristic tartness and zesty smell. Not long overdue is a basil that adds a fresh, summery verdancy to the perfume. Heart of this 4160 Tuesdays composition combines floral and woody notes. Rose is presented here as a multi-layer dress from the past epoque, rosy tones are entwined with something dusty and a little bit old. Orange blossom adds a bit of lightness and richness here, while cedarwood and rosewood create a charming substance of the perfume, again with an old-fashioned edge to it. Addition of honey adds something glossy to Paris 1948 yet at the same time there’s something animalic to it. Musk and labdanum confirm this wilder element appearing on my skin. It’s resinous, balmy, slightly dirty. Hay adds some dryness with a coumarin undertone. Oakmoss note and its shrub-like scent with a bit of mustiness completes this woody chypre fragrance. Despite putting Paris in the name of this fragrance I imagine this scent as a good companion for a stroll around a foggy London.

amyris-extrait

For me Maison Francis Kurkdjian is one of those brands that worked for me once (with Grand Soir) and any other time was just okay-ish. Now that the brand is owned by LVMH they make sure that any bestseller is then introduced in a different concentration or as a matching body product – all that to make more money on the scent. Hence no surprise that Amyris Femme was just introduced in extrait de parfum strength. Its composition opens with a floral freshness. There’s a bit of dewiness and something citrusy to this mandarin blossom note. After a moment it becomes more fruity, when pear joins – adding a smooth scent of ripe fruit. It doesn’t take very long until iris joins. Amyris Femme offers a very feminine rendition of this flower. It’s powdery, sensual and kind of musky. Jasmine absolute introduces some solar energy and a bit of lightness. Over time this perfume turns really, really sweet – to the point that it reminds me of a marshmallow or some other sugar puff. Amberwood molecule adds a warm and gentle ambery facet while amyris adds more substance to the blend through the introduction of the woody element. The perfume has a moderate power and its sillage is rather skin-bound. Did we really need this iteration of MFK Amyris Femme?

white-rabbits

Courtesy of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz I have a chance to try a bunch of fragrances she composes in her studio, based in Boulder, Colorado, USA. Encouraged by comments from other fans of DSH, White Rabbits is the first fragrance I decided to test. Immediately after rolling this sample on my skin I got a feeling that this perfume is going to stay quite vegetal for its entire lifespan, and I wasn’t mistaken. For the first 2-3 minutes I smell a fresh carrot note that is also rather juicy and has all the soil washed off it. After a few minutes White Rabbits reveal a bounty of iris goodness. The perfume becomes almost a soliflore, filling your nose with orris scent. And it’s a gorgeous one. It has a soft texture of the butter and a slightly fatty, rich scent reminiscent of butter as well. But on the other hand it’s also a powdery one with a rooty facet. It sure is a fluffy scent – if rabbits fur really smelled like this I suppose I would’ve had a herd of them by now. Over time the green, resiny angelica adds to the scent. Ambrette, also known as musk mallow adds a vegetal musky vibe that pairs very well with iris and entire composition of White Rabbits.

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Duet

Modern world of perfumery is a little bit like a sinusoid. One moment you embrace the femininity or worship the strength of a man. All this only to turn by 180° the next moment and go back to the talk that you can be anything you’d want to be & that gender doesn’t matter. Following that thought perfumer Francis Kurkdjian started working on two new fragrances that would have the same DNA, but would create different gender fluid scent portraits. Both fragrances share the same name and are to be differentiated by the way it has been written on the bottle. Let’s get to smelling them now.

Gentle fluidity (majuscule G, minuscule f, silver details flacon) starts with a cold-as-ice note of juniper berry. The perfume starts very aromatic and spacious but it has a very chilly effect to it. The way it smells immediately makes me think of a glass of gin with ice cubes clanging against glass walls. Just add an olive and you could almost drink this, as it smells almost like gin & tonic. Since it’s juniper there’s also a metallic facet that accentuates the frigid opening of Gentle fluidity even more.

gentle-fluidity-silver

Slowly and after some time the silver edition of Gentle fluidity (very accurate choice of silver for this cold impression) starts evolving. It doesn’t feel as cold as earlier but a juniper note is still present on skin. However the fragrance begins to develop a slightly balmy and gently spicy facet. Freshness of juniper gradually creates room for a vibrant and somewhat dry (think paper dry) note of nutmeg. Paired with coriander seed which creates slightly warmer, comfortable aura around the wearer. For me it’s a smart fragrance for a man in a suit.

This combination of dryness and spiciness, lined with continuously present juniper in the 2nd plan, lead to the base of Gentle fluidity. That particular part of new Maison Francis Kurkdjian creation highlights some woody accents – but they are quite lightweight, not hefty at all. There’s something ambery hiding deeper in the drydown, at different moments I could catch more balsamic or more sweet nuances floating around my wrists. This perfume is powerful and delicate at the same time. More smart and elegant than outgoing.

gentle Fluidity (minuscule g, majuscule F, golden details flacon) smells like a completely different perfume despite sharing the same notes with a silver version. Right after I spray it on my skin this fragrance offers me a delicious accord of vanilla. It’s very smooth & luxurious. It actually brings to mind a flavor of creme brulee coming from a workshop of famous patissier. It’s a very rich, mouth-watering & sensorial experience for the palate and, at the same time it doesn’t feel overpowering.

gentle-fluidity-gold

This vanilla, apart from being incredibly sensual and comforting also brings forward a delicate facet or caramelized sugar on top of this perfume-dessert. gentle Fluidity later develops a sort of a background floral note that to me smells like orchid. After some time a soft and embracing spiciness emerges, highlighting the presence of coriander seed in the new Maison Francis Kurkdjian scent. I find this vanillic goodness to be incredibly appealing, its ethereal and rich in its unique way. It’s like an invisible caress, lika a cocoon.

Deriving directly from a custardy vanilla is the abundance of musk, fragrancing the air around the wearer. With its soft & fuzzy character it feels very comforting and cozy. Right from the very beginning gentle Fluidity could be described as having incredible radiance – it’s full of luminosity. As hours go by the scent becomes even warmer, bringing up some ambery woods. Their oriental, woody aroma makes the perfume linger on skin for many hours. Golden color is so well-fitting to a perfume brimming with femininity.

To me a new Maison Francis Kurkdjian duet of Gentle fluidity and gentle Fluidity is a perfect example of creating a perfume is in fact a little bit of an… experiment. A small change of proportion, of a ratio between the ingredients can lead to a completely different composition. According to the brand both new scents comprise of the same 49 elements but Francis Kurkdjian highlights only 6. It’s a different way of accentuating those six that lead to two separate olfactive experiences. I think both versions are great but I’d choose golden version over the silver one. Mostly because it’s so cuddly.

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