Tag Archives: Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

Lovender, La Parfumerie Moderne Années Folles

To me Summer is a lot about citrus fragrances. Lemon, lime, orange, bergamot, mandarin, grapefruit, citron… Give me all because without them summertime would’ve been hard to survive. On the other hand I don’t want to fall into a perfume monothony. I also crave mint, basil, airy florals, even marine-themed compositions are of my liking lately (like Acquasala or Un Air de Bretagne). But there’s one aroma that I associate with the summer just as much as I do with citrus – and that is lavender. I loved the smell of it since I was young and I keep on dreaming to visit lavender fields in Provence when the plants are in full bloom, surrounded by a bee buzz & ready for harvesting.

My recent testing of one of the fragrances from La Parfumerie Moderne gave me the wonderful opportunity to feel exactly how I would imagine a trip to Provence would smell like. Just seconds after spraying Annees Folles on skin the scenery around you changes. As if with a touch of a magic wand you are transported to the Provencal fields. The smell of lavender is so enveloping, it wraps around your body like a fluffy blanket. The floral tones of these tiny purple flowers are exhilarating and refreshing while at the same time the aromatic nature of it unveils slowly and nests deeper in the composition, creating a gorgeous 3-dimensional view that is so picturesque and breathtaking.

At first I find lavender of Annees Folles to be on a more floral side with a detectable nuances of pollen powder and a tiny bit of honey and beeswax mingling in the background. However as time goes by this impression changes. After a while it starts to have some more herbal characteristics. It’s becoming greener, slightly more vegetal but floral lavender facet is not gone yet. Then thyme joins the composition and at that point aromatic herb feeling takes over the lead. There’s a lovely peaceful aura created by this perfume. Warm spiciness of nutmeg adds more complexity to the scent and they go so well together. This spice note has a nice & happy tingle for extra dose of optimism.

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After 2 hours La Parfumerie Moderne Annees Folles develops an aromatic, crispy yet somehow dewy vibe. At the beginning I though that this could be a violet leaf but as I spent more time smelling it from up close I realized that it’s actually a geranium accord. It’s green and has a very warm undertone that instantly brings the idea of how much sun energy it has absorbed. Subsequently we have the arrival of vetiver – in this case its profile combines woody notes with aromatic grass. By rendering it that way the perfume  gains more substantivity which is added value to the dimension it already had. I especially like how the notes unfold here at their own pace. No rush at all.

Even after couple more hours Annees Folles is still unmistakably an olfactive story about lavender. It’s still very present on my skin and now it combines all of the aspects that appeared earlier – there’s a floral part, a herbaceous part and an aromatic part. Thanks to the drydown notes the perfume undergoes even more changes. Tonka beans make the scent creamier, more sensual but at the same time something nutty and crunchy appears as well. To me it smells like a shortbread cookie with edible lavender. Later on it becomes slightly more like a pudding that step by step becomes more balmy and caramelized – a benzoin delight with a gentle incensy finish.

Annees Folles from La Parfumerie Moderne surprised me with its brilliant quality and structure. I’m glad that I could try this slightly older release after liking most recent Belles Rives so much. A lot of care and precision went into creating this fragrance – each note has a reason to be there and they work with each other like a perfectly synchronized orchestra. But that’s not a surprise knowing that Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is a perfumer. Annees Folles surely belongs to my top 5 lavenders now. The perfume is available as eau de parfum, in 100 ml blue glass bottle. Very recently the brand started offering 7.5 ml travel sprays that you can combine, making your own set of three.

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Guiding light, Parfum d’Empire Le Cri de la Lumière

“And God said, Let there be light: and there was light. And God saw the light, that it was good: and God divided the light from the darkness. And God called the light Day, and the darkness He called Night. And there was evening and there was morning, one day…” So goes the first day of the creation of the Universe according to the Bible. Thousand years later light and darkness are still opposite to each other, continuously in a fight. These days we know more about the nature of both forces. People even learned how to combine both into art (chiaroscuro). Parfum d’Empire, one of the earliest niche brands I discovered & that I still love, recently introduced Le Cri de la Lumiere, a perfume that is ‘as dazzling and exhilarating as a newborn day’. I was truly looking forward to giving this new composition a try, and my high expectations were met. It was a love at first sniff.

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Le Cri has a very intriguing built. There are no particular top, heart or base notes. This perfume immediately goes to the point and remains quite steady through the entire wearing time. As soon as I spray it on my skin I’m greeted by the beautiful accord of iris. You surely know by now that I’m crazy about iris, I always look for a chance to try a new one. But my expectations are also high because of that. In Le Cri the iris evolves right in front of my eyes. At first I encounter its carroty facet. It smells vegetal and a little bit rooty but with a sheer, opalescent nature. It’s hauntingly beautiful.

After a quarter the direction changes and iris becomes buttery and delightfully soft. There’s something creamy about Le Cri but it also has an amazing lightness to it. Think of a whipped cream or a meringue perfumed with buttery iris goodness. On my skin this feeling lasts for quite some time. In the next step the composition becomes more dry, encouraging the reveal of another iris facet. And so it happens. This time it smells powdery, a little bit like talcum but it has an exquisite silky element underneath that makes it feel very sensual. It sure smells like a luxurious, pampering body powder.

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On my skin the iris is present until the very end of the day but in the meantime there are a few twists to make the latest Parfum d’Empire fragrance more interesting. Turkish rose appears in a shy, delicate manner. It’s not opulent & it’s not there to make a statement. Its freshness and dewiness make the perfume more Innocent. I think it would be a suitable comparison to say that rose accord forms some sort of a cushion covered with red velvet. It adds some brightness and color to Le Cri and at the same time the presence of rose gives it more vintage character.

This vintage feeling carries on to the final ingredient of the perfume, which is ambrette. To me there’s something dusty about this note. Because of that impression it feels like some shadow was cast at the bright & radiant part of Le Cri. Such contrast is accentuated even more over time when ambrette develops a woody vibe with a vegetable-fruity tone underneath. I get a fleeting impression of apricot and pear. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato created a fragrance that is contemporary yet old-fashioned in a positive way. It also suits the brand while being quite different from other perfumes in the range. Parfum d’Empire Le Cri de la Lumière is an eau de parfum, available in 50 ml bottles. To me it was a love at first whiff so I’m happy it’s not a limited edition. It’s a magnificent skin-scent.

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