Tag Archives: Marc-Antoine Corticchiato

Guiding light, Parfum d’Empire Le Cri de la Lumière

“And God said, Let there be light: and there was light. And God saw the light, that it was good: and God divided the light from the darkness. And God called the light Day, and the darkness He called Night. And there was evening and there was morning, one day…” So goes the first day of the creation of the Universe according to the Bible. Thousand years later light and darkness are still opposite to each other, continuously in a fight. These days we know more about the nature of both forces. People even learned how to combine both into art (chiaroscuro). Parfum d’Empire, one of the earliest niche brands I discovered & that I still love, recently introduced Le Cri de la Lumiere, a perfume that is ‘as dazzling and exhilarating as a newborn day’. I was truly looking forward to giving this new composition a try, and my high expectations were met. It was a love at first sniff.

le-cri

Le Cri has a very intriguing built. There are no particular top, heart or base notes. This perfume immediately goes to the point and remains quite steady through the entire wearing time. As soon as I spray it on my skin I’m greeted by the beautiful accord of iris. You surely know by now that I’m crazy about iris, I always look for a chance to try a new one. But my expectations are also high because of that. In Le Cri the iris evolves right in front of my eyes. At first I encounter its carroty facet. It smells vegetal and a little bit rooty but with a sheer, opalescent nature. It’s hauntingly beautiful.

After a quarter the direction changes and iris becomes buttery and delightfully soft. There’s something creamy about Le Cri but it also has an amazing lightness to it. Think of a whipped cream or a meringue perfumed with buttery iris goodness. On my skin this feeling lasts for quite some time. In the next step the composition becomes more dry, encouraging the reveal of another iris facet. And so it happens. This time it smells powdery, a little bit like talcum but it has an exquisite silky element underneath that makes it feel very sensual. It sure smells like a luxurious, pampering body powder.

le-cri-de-la-lumiere

On my skin the iris is present until the very end of the day but in the meantime there are a few twists to make the latest Parfum d’Empire fragrance more interesting. Turkish rose appears in a shy, delicate manner. It’s not opulent & it’s not there to make a statement. Its freshness and dewiness make the perfume more Innocent. I think it would be a suitable comparison to say that rose accord forms some sort of a cushion covered with red velvet. It adds some brightness and color to Le Cri and at the same time the presence of rose gives it more vintage character.

This vintage feeling carries on to the final ingredient of the perfume, which is ambrette. To me there’s something dusty about this note. Because of that impression it feels like some shadow was cast at the bright & radiant part of Le Cri. Such contrast is accentuated even more over time when ambrette develops a woody vibe with a vegetable-fruity tone underneath. I get a fleeting impression of apricot and pear. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato created a fragrance that is contemporary yet old-fashioned in a positive way. It also suits the brand while being quite different from other perfumes in the range. Parfum d’Empire Le Cri de la Lumière is an eau de parfum, available in 50 ml bottles. To me it was a love at first whiff so I’m happy it’s not a limited edition. It’s a magnificent skin-scent.

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Heart of serenity, La Parfumerie Moderne Belles Rives

While traveling and discovering new places around the world there are many ways of accommodation. You can rent full appartments, stay with local people via Airbnb, use cheap hostels or top class hotels. La Parfumerie Moderne tells stories inspired by luxurious hotels and their history, which is not surprising knowing that Philippe Neirinck, the founder, comes from a family of hoteliers. New launch takes us to Beau Rivage Palace hotel in Lausanne, a place where Albert Cohen wrote Belle du Seigneur. The perfume reflects a silent serenity of the lake of Geneva.

Belles Rives starts with a bergamot essence that is like trying to capture a thunderbolt in a frame of a photograph, it’s so hard to notice. It appears as a zesty flash that is already gone the next time you try to smell it. Subsequently the perfume reveals a magnificent iris accord. The moment bergamot is gone I begin to smell something deliciously buttery. Iris unveils boldly yet gracefully. Texture it provides is very satisfying and it evolves into a multi-dimensional accord. Buttery facet is very rich, you can tell that it’s rich in irone – fragrant molecules responsible for the smell of violet and iris.

This buttered Florentine iris gradually evolves into something even more substantive. It blends with a hint of myrrh. Because of that it becomes more resinous. Splendid thing is that myrrh makes the iris smell even better! It accentuated its best values without making it too heavy or cloying. Plus in the next step there’s also some frankincense that guarantees the balance of notes in Belles Rives in some way. After a while I noticed an apricot-like facet appearing in the 2nd plan of this fragrance. From now on the perfume gets only more and more interesting & my level of attraction rises.

belles-rives

Apricot sensation becomes a tad more floral after 15 minutes, proving that it was actually osmanthus that created such impression. I truly love osmanthus note for the multiple facets it has. Speaking of which, further into Belles Rives development it begins to smell like a suede. When combined with iris it creates a beautiful fuzzy accord that feels elegant & sophisticated, yet not old-fashioned. It feels warm and embracing, like a blanket. Ideal for a gloomy days of autumn or winter. At some point iris loses a bit of its presence so that other notes can be perceived. It evolves beautifully.

One of them is sambac jasmine. White flower aura it introduces is gently and light as a feather. It really feels like a bunch of petals resting on a plush cushion scented with iris and apricoty-suedy osmanthus. It feels glamorous, maybe a little bit retro at this point but I feel totally attracted to Belles Rives. This quality of iris is like a magnet to me. Drydown reveals a hefty dose of cedar from Texas. Its dryness make it feel a little bit more masculine. Vetiver adds a little bit of earthy rootiness. Newest La Parfumerie Moderne also contains Cosmone®, a powdery & musky molecule from Givaudan.

From the words I’ve written above you can easily tell that Belles Rives from La Parfumerie Moderne is a love for me. This perfume was one of my top things that I sampled during Pitti Fragranze. It’s also one of the most wonderful iris fragrances I’ve smelled so far. I definitely want to add it to my collection. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato worked for over 2 years to master this composition – he nailed it perfectly. Made in eau de parfum concentration it lasts throughout the day and has a nice sillage. Belles Rives comes in a simple 100 ml bottle made of dark green glass. You’ll love it! I know I do!

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