Tag Archives: Memo Paris

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 56

jasmin-angelique

I’ve been a fan of Atelier Cologne since 2010 when the brand was established. Over the years they released many fragrances that I liked and have in my collection. When Jasmin Angelique was introduced 4 years ago I got a travel spray as a freebie when swapping with someone. But I didn’t like it at that time. After spending years in purgatory drawer I found it while looking for something else. I tested it once more and to my surprise I find it pleasant now. The opening combines spicy sharpness of sichuan pepper with a brisky smell of lemon, both its juicy flesh and aromatic zest. After a few minutes angelica joins the composition and from that moment the scent will remain green until the end. Angelica introduces stem-like kind of green, quite crispy and warm at the same time. Addition of fig makes Jasmin Angelique more fruity and milky, therefore rounder and more approachable. Galbanum is a source of more sappy & resinous variety of green note, there’s something tad more dark behind it. When jasmine appears the perfume is very verdant, like a secret garden in which white flowers begin to unfold their petals. Jasmine is rich and strong, heady a bit but not indolic. In dries down revealing notes of soft and sensual tonka mixed with frankincense and amber. It’s a rather elegant and unobvious take on a green theme.

orange-x-santal

Essential Parfums is a new brand that debuted in 2018 and in the world of niche perfumery, where price increases are seen almost everywhere, it’s like a breath of fresh air. The brand works with perfumers of well-known names, their packaging is minimalistic, fragrances are totally fine and yet they charge less than 70 Euro for a 100 ml bottle. At Esxence I tried the entire range of five compositions and I liked Orange x Santal the most. Welcomed by a duet of super juicy and naturally smelling Italian orange and bitter orange, I can smell the pulp, the juice and the rind. It’s an uplifting and invigorating opening that is sure to wake you up. It’s almost as if someone served you a glass of freshly squeezed juice. A touch of basil introduces and aromatic vibe of green, Mediterranean landscape. This picture is even more visualized in my head thanks to cypress which brings forward a slightly different aspect of verdant note, more dry and shrub-like. Cypress is also like a prelude to the woodiness that Orange x Santal has to offer. Sandalwood (from Australia) in this perfume is really pretty. It’s more on a dry and rugged side rather than on creamy side and there’s something about it that makes me think of color red. It combines nicely with the juicy fruitiness of orange. Oakmoss introduces a parched, aromatic vibe that’s slightly like a chypre. It’s a nice option for summer days.

memo-oriental-leatherThe collection of Cuirs Nomades at Memo Paris has just gotten bigger thanks to Oriental Leather that joined the family very recently. As someone who thinks that all 6 (now 7) leathers are well done, I’m quite eager to smell what new ideas Memo might bring to this range. Oriental Leather opens with a soothing scent of aromatic lavender. The smell is quite deep, relaxing, inflected with fougere elements. Geranium introduces a green-aromatic and crunchy facet. Pimento and coriander bring something spicy and dry to the scent. Very soon patchouli joins the composition and completely changes the scent. Oriental Leather becomes dark and mysterious. Patchouli is very earthy and damp here, also carrying the facet of rotting vegetation. There’s an impressive depth and multi-dimensional effect to it but the scent is specific. Finally leather appears – it’s quite bulky, rugged and still smelling slightly of the chemicals it was treated with at the workshop. It blends with patchouli making these 2 hard to separate. Later on things get more round and smooth. Cinnamon adds a nice fizziness and clove appears next bringing a spicy vibe that is more tenacious. After a few hours there’s a vanillic trace hovering in the background but it quickly gets lost under a resinous, balmy, slightly caramelized benzoin. To me it’s probably the most oriental part of Oriental Leather. Additional notes include anise and tea but I didn’t notice either of them. Some will like this one, some will like it less.  It sure is far from the one I like the most. I’m ready to forget it.

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Dragon Breath, Memo Winter Palace

If, like me, you’re a fan of fantasy novels filled with magic and mystical creatures, there’s a high chance that you’ve already met more than one dragon hiding between the inked pages of a book. Some were small, some big, some were fierce & dangerous while others were friendly and helpful. But dragons are also essential part of Chinese folklore which started way before any fantastic story was written. I wonder if they really existed. Inspired by China, dragons and spring Memo Paris tells their own tale of a dragon and its flight of freedom. A scent in which ice meets fire.

Memo Winter Palace unveils like the first rays of the summer morning. The composition opens with a delicious scent of sweet orange and it instantly triggers some drooling as well. It’s an optimistic & realistic aroma that within couple of minutes becomes more saturated and rich. It even develops an oily facet that makes you think of smelling orange essential oil in a pure state. After a while the sweetness is suppressed by bergamot. The latter one is responsible for introducing more tangy sensation to the scent and this actually makes it even more delicious and refreshing.

This citrus symphony in the opening does not end with just orange and bergamot playing on the skin. Later on grapefruit accord surfaces. When that happens Winter Palace becomes slightly bitter. In addition to that there’s a new fruity-powdery sensation coming from white albedo part of the citrus. There was also a short moment when grapefruit was slightly sweaty but it was a quickly vanishing impression that I didn’t find bothersome. Generally speaking all of these notes so far were very energetic and playful. As a new day wakes up when the sun rises, this perfume will wake you up too.

winter-palace

After around an hour, sometimes earlier, sometimes later depending on the weather conditions, Winter Palace starts to change its form. Until now it was a rather chilly fragrance with a cooling effect. However there comes a moment when it gradually becomes warmer. Exactly like summer morning, when it’s still cold but you know that in a couple of hours it will be delightfully warm. That’s exactly what happens when red tea accord joins the composition. It spreads a pleasantly warm and fragrant aura around the wearer. It smells like a steaming cup of your favorite rooibos tea.

Its warm & homely scent is mixed with mate tea which makes it taste slightly more tart and characteristic. At the base of Memo Winter Palace there’s a solid base. Resinous benzoin entwines with more smoky labdanum. Caramelized-like styrax plays with rich, oriental vanilla and they both improve each other’s scent. Tolu balsam is ‘flavored’ with buttery-aromatic tonka and highlights some of the musky tones. Despite of so many powerful ingredients they are beautifully woven into the fragrance. It’s a masterful finale with a perfect balance as none of these lead the way.

Winter Palace by Memo is a fragrance that I wanted to try since I read about it and I absolutely wasn’t disappointed after wearing it. It’s an interesting perfume of contrast between cold and warm elements. Perfumer Alienor Massenet managed to compose something that feels summery but at the same time could easily work during other seasons as well. My favorite part was when red tea accord emerged. Winter Palace eau de parfum joins Art Land Collection and is available in 75 ml bottle featuring a beautiful chinese dragon graphic. A majestic creature for a majestic perfume.

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