Tag Archives: Memo Paris

Smell you soon (I hope)

Under normal circumstances two weeks ago I would have travelled to the West and above the Alps to spend a magnificent weekend in Florence, Italy. There, during Pitti Fragranze, I would’ve had a chance to smell my way through a few dozens, if not a hundret of new perfume releases. We all know why it just didn’t come to be this year and why I had to stay at home, just like many other people who love frangrances as much as you or me. I miss Esxence and Pitti for obvious reasons – I can’t try as many new scents as I’d like to, I can’t meet my friends, both writers and brand owners, perfumers. Finally I can’t be in Italy, even if it were just for 2-3 days, to enjoy their delicious cuisine along with a glass of prosecco or aperol spritz. But those good days will come back, won’t they?

At times of global pandemy one can wonder how niche perfumery will deal with this new and very difficult state. I was thinking that brands might postpone their new launches & wait for better times since without these exhibitions it must be harder to bring same level of buzz & attention to the new compositions. And while I have an impression that niche brands have slowed down due to Covid-19, many have already adapted and present the fruit of their work to the public with the help of social media platforms. Of course it has less splendour than a special spotlight at the stand in Milan or Florence but curiosity of ‘hungry’ perfume fans eventually wins. I’m thankful to any brand who reached out to me during these difficult times. Without them I would write even less…

There’s a bunch of new or soon-to-be-released fragrances that I’m really looking forward to trying. Let me share a couple of them with you – maybe we’ll be together in the feeling of excitement?

Over the years we all got accustomed to a slow-paced creation process at Puredistance and that our waiting will be rewarded with something luxurious and of highest quality. Announced for October please be introduced to Rubikona – this perfume, with a name resulting from the junction of words ruby and icon, will be an 11th composition in brand’s portfolio. For a second time Jan Ewoud Vos invited Cecile Zarokian (Sheiduna, 2016) to collaborate. This will be a spicy floral, 28% perfume.

I like Gallivant but I know some of you don’t. However there’s always a but to a but. Have you ever heard of the city of Bukhara? Worry not, neither have it. It’s somewhere in Uzbekistan and Nick Steward decided this will be another location to pinpoint on the map of his fragrant journeys. My way to convince you to try it? It’s an iris. Orris! Hello! By perfumer Ralf Schwieger at that. I love Iris Nazarena he composed for Aedes. I know Gallivant has different easthetics but I think it’ll be fab.

In my opinion Perris Monte Carlo is one of those brands that aren’t very much spoken of which is totally unfair because they make great perfume. Some time ago I was captivated by Mimosa Tanneron which I long to try. I know it’s the first day of astronomical autumn today but why can’t I have some yellow cheer all year round? Dedicated to pom-pom flowers that grow around Grasse, this watercolor-like flower is now interpreted by Jean-Claude Ellena, a master of watery scents.

More iris? But of course! Is there such thing as enough iris for me? To be honest I rarely get excited by the releases in the mainstream perfume segment these days. Same goes for the more exclusive boutique lines from big brands. This time my interest was tickled when I read about Iris Torrefie from Guerlain, joining Art et la Matiere line. Orris with coffee? This could either go super right or super wrong. I signed up for a decant so I hope to make my own judgements soon.

Listen, I know what you might think but I’m not a real devotee of Memo. It just happens that I like a few fragrances from the brand. I actually find Italian Leather and Winter Palace to be the only 2 that would fit in my collection. New in Art Land collection is Odeon, named after Parisian theatre. Blend of rose, candied date, tonka and sandalwood sounds promising. There’s also Sintra, also new, with a Morrocan tiles motif on the bottle – but it’s supposed to smell like marshmallow, so not for me.

Are there any fragrances you’re waiting for to smell? Or maybe any of these 5 sounds interesting?

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Submarine Realm, Memo Ocean Leather

Those of us who have already spent some years in the world of perfume (and many of you have this hobby way longer than me) know that there are raw materials that simply go well with one another. Thanks to science the perfumer palette becomes broader year after year, yet still noses willingly utilize these well-known duets, like oud-rose, amber-vanilla, lemon-mint, violet-mimosa. We all got used to these pairings, that’s why a spark of interest appears when a brand tries something new. Cuirs Nomades line from Memo¬†just got a new member. Marine accord and leather? Will it work?

In the opening of Ocean Leather mandarin is the one that comes first to the front, bringing a happy juicy vibe that makes my mouth water in no time. Its scent combines citrus juice and bits of the orange flesh, with additional whisper of aromatic aspect of the peel. So far the perfume doesn’t evoke anything marine but that is about to change. Couple of minutes later sage joins the composition and when it starts to effuse its herbaceous aroma with hints of iodine and a slightly sweaty impression, we are already getting few steps closer to the big water & its mysteries.

Aromatic scent of vetiver, slightly woody, a bit hay-like through its dry & grassy facet gives me the impression as if I was smelling an old rope that’s been on a boat that saw coutless marine adventures over the decades. There’s a saline aspect to it that makes Ocean Leather¬†way more interesting in my eyes (in my nose?) Later on elemi joins, which adds something green to the perfume on one hand and balmy-waxy on the other hand. Its resinous, slightly incensy smell blends well with the freshness of mandarin and ocean-dipped sage and vetiver. We keep on sailing.

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Basil essence gives Ocean Leather more of a green & herbal tinge but it doesn’t smell like a summer garden at all. Instead it seems that other elements of the fragrance help the preferred aromatics to come out with higher priority. Even though these molecules are green there’s something raspy about them. Smelling this part makes me think of green algae floating on top of the wavy ocean surface. The waves are being beaten up as they hit the shore, naturally forming a foam. At this point of development a faint scent of violet – watery, crisp & floral, reaches my nostrils.

Drydown of this newest addition to the Memo leathers series brings a lot of tranquility & peace. Leather accord finally emerges and while it feels dense and substantial, it is and at the same time it isn’t powerful. It surely isn’t as prominent as in previous positions in the collection. In Ocean Leather this accord feels a bit stiff, a bit cracked – like a sailor’s jacket that has been damaged by a salty water. The perfume seamlessly transitions to a cedarwood note – a smell of wooden boat deck, permeated with the smell of ocean and wax. A hint of nutmeg when its dry. It’s an endless water.

When I first heard that Memo is going to release Ocean Leather I was a bit confused, wondering how leather and marine accord – two different worlds on the first thought, could go together in same fragrance. The result is unexpected – the perfume is not difficult in perception if you ask me, it’s difficult to describe or fit in the frames of one specific olfactive family. Perfumer Alienor Massenet created a scent that perfectly marries these ‘opposite forces’, giving us an exciting thing to smell, given you enjoy leathery and marine notes when they’re separated. Ocean Leather 75 ml bottle has a label-plate that features a big white whale, a perfect representation of this eau de parfum.

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