Tag Archives: Mendittorosa

Hungry for Inspiration – Day 2 of Esxence 2019

After a whirlwind of meeting new people and smelling newly launched fragrances during the 1st day of Esxence my mind was still relatively open to more stimuli. A dinner I had with a bunch of great people on the first evening was fantastic and after having a good night sleep the next day of Esxence has arrived. It has arrived a bit too soon in my case because I had to wake up at 7 AM on Friday. All because I was invited for a breakfast by the team of Fragrances of the World.

Despite early hour (the breakfast was starting at 8, Esxence opens as 10) for me this was the perfect opportunity to meet the one and only Michael Edwards again and to listen to his passionate words about perfume. It was also the occasion to finally meet Clayton from What Men Should Smell Like face to face as he recently joined Michael’s team. We almost met in Florence two years ago but it didn’t happen in the end, therefore I was happy we can finally say hi and shake hands.

The breakfast gathered around 20 people, writers, bloggers and youtubers. During this event Michael announced that he’ll be releasing 2 books this year. First one will be “Perfume Legends II” an update to the first book that was issued in 1996. Second project which will debut around Fall will be a new edition of “Fragrances of the World” – both book announcements made us very excited. While treating outselves to tea, coffee and croissants, together with other writers we started discussing more technical, regulatory aspects of perfumery, IFRA etc. Clearly these were not of interest to so called “influencers” as they all left – while we continued for another 40 minutes.

After this enjoyable breakfast with Michael Edwards we headed for Esxence as a group – together with Dana, Michelyn, Ermano. My plan for the first discovery of the day was to visit a stand of Masque Milano. Alessandro Brun, who is one of the founders invited me to sit down. Firstly we smelled a couple of raw materials featured in their new fragrance. So there was a magnolia absolute, raspberry leaf, patchouli essence. Secondly the time came to smell Kintsugi. I very much liked this modern attitude towards chypre and the perfume was blooming on my skin in a very refined way. The brand also reintroduced 100 ml size in a new and exclusive bottle based on a 35 ml one.

When I stopped at Puredistance stand to say hi to the team (as I know them for couple of years now) I was surprised to meet Mary there as well. She left the brand a while ago but decided to come and support her fragrance family one more time. Of course Aenotus was in the center of attention as the newest fragrance. It was one of the very few releases that I already had a chance to smell and write about. I was happy to talk to Mary and watch people smell and compliment Aenotus.

At noon I attended a presentation titled “AI & Future of Fragrance” in which Olivia Jezler shared with the audience a bunch of interesting fragrance projects and installations which for example involved having a virtual stroll in the mountains while special fragrance generating device would reproduce the smell of the mountain air and enhance this VR experience with scent stimulation. It was very interesting and luckily there was nothing said that in 10 years artificial intelligence will be able to compose successful fragrances from scratch. I’m sure perfumers will be still needed for many years.

After this presentation I was stopping by a stand of Mendittorosa, where Stefania Squeglia was showing two new creations. Dana happened to be there at the same time so I joined and we smelled both fragrances together. Because Stefania was barefoot during the entire show and because of her clothes many people compared her to fragrance elf which I think is a lovely description. Ithaka joins Odori d’Anima line and it was a warm blend of sensual spices, benzoin, something boozy and cosy. Talento joins Talismans collection and this perfume was a smart and elegant fragrance bringing to mind crispy aldehydes, powdery notes. It was evoking a man wearing freshly ironed shirt and a tie.

Next I directed my footsteps towards Hiram Green stand as there was one VIP that I really had to meet during Esxence. On a 2nd day of Esxence I was overjoyed to meet Val, the one and only Cookie Queen. I haven’t seen her for two years so it was thrilling to meet again. She brough her daughter with her and they were helping Hiram. Val also hosted a special event in memory of Vero Kern at a Campomarzio store in Milan. I got a couple of outstanding cookies which were life-saving at that point of the day. I hope she was happy to see me as well, although I’m not as much a VIP.

Later during the day I met with Gabriella Chieffo who was also introducing a new fragrance. Composed with a significant amount of sea salt and ginger entwined with white flowers, ylang, amber and woody touches the result was a rather intriguing musky-floral concoction. She titled her new creation 1,2,3, Stella! after a children game. Gabriella always comes up with an extravagant idea to decorate her stand. This year she used metal net to create three feminine silhouettes in long dresses. It was a clever idea and it surely took some skill to make them. Final result was impressive.

Perris Monte Carlo was getting a lot of buzz among people at Esxence. First of all they introduced a 4th chapter to their Italian Collection of iconic citrus notes that launched last year. Arancia di Sicilia is dedicated to Sicilian blood orange. The perfume was very bright and juicy but it wasn’t a plain hesperide as there was also almond and cinnamon in this blend. They also introduced a new White Collection (or Collection de Grasse) with Rose de Mai and Jasmin au Pays. These two soliflore compositions were signed by Jean-Claude Ellena, his name worked like a magnet at the show.

2018 was a year of neroli for Patricia de Nicolai. Closer to the end she released Neroli Intense which I didn’t have a chance to smell last year. But don’t be fooled, this is not a richer version of Eau de Neroli. Neroli Intense is different, utilizing orange blossom in more indolic, white floral way and blending it with petitgrain and beeswax among some other notes. It’s more sharp and punchy.

We all know that Pierre Guillaume is a prolific perfumer who is juggling between several separate lines he owns. Spotlight at Esxence was however directed on his main line (former Parfumerie Generale) and a trio of white bottles forming a new White Collection. Swim/SX, Helioflora and Sunsuality are all lighter, more summery and easy to wear. Apart from that I also smelled Sorong, his latest rework fragrance. I was also given a preview sniff of two new Phaedon compositions which will launch later this year in the visually updated packaging. You can tell he’s been a busy bee.

Among my new discoveries in Milan was this brand named L’Adone. Its origins are in Switzerland but fragrances they offer are made in Grasse. Apparently this brand is around since 2016 but I haven’t seen it earlier. 4 fragrances share Elenya as part of their name, then you have Gold, White, Black and Azur. To be honest I don’t remember what they smelled like but I do have samples so I will have a chance to develop own opinion on them at the comfort of my home.

During the day I spent a short moment with a friend and perfumer Stephanie Bakouche. We talked and we smelled together a couple of her newly developed fragrances for Chabaud. It’s always nice to connect after not seeing each other for 6 months and to smell the results of someone’s work.

My final meeting on Friday was with Marina Sersale of Eau d’Italie and Altaia. With Eau d’Italie they celebrate 15 years of existence. Their 15th fragrance (meaning they were doing 1 each year) is named Easy to Love. It’s a light fig scent brightened with peony and honey. Last release from Altaia was Purple Land (2018) and it was an interesting perfume. Slightly tropical, with guava, papaya but also green because of muguet and it had musky-ambery drydown.

And so the clock reached 6 PM meaning that Friday at Esxence was about to end. But it wasn’t the end of the day in general for many of us. In the evening, together with Elena we attended a Masque Milano Party at 10 Corso Como (this party is a staple for couple of years now), arriving fashionably late because I had to grab a piece of pizza at Eataly as a substitute of a dinner which I didn’t have on that night. Well… if it wasn’t enough you should know that after a couple of cocktails and snacks there we hopped on a metro to crash another party, this time by Nishane. We also met with Ana plus her sis and with Dana. We didn’t party that long because we had to come back before midnight – otherwise we wouldn’t have been able to use metro anymore to go back. But in the end we were all happy that we made it to both parties. That Friday was a really good day if you ask me.

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Quo Vadis? Mendittorosa Sirio

Everyone in their life goes through a couple of those important, life-changing moments when we’re being asked or we ask ourselves… What now? What do I want to do? Who do I want to be? Their importance is great as they influence our future and things that a newly chosen path may bring. Through a new composition of her brand – Mendittorossa, Stefania Squeglia asks questions of humanity level. Where do we come from? Where are we going? But there are thousands of answers.

When smelling Sirio for the first time you cannot escape the impression that this perfume has a Biblical reference. I think so because immediately after spraying some on my skin I smell a lovely, crisp apple note that combines juiciness and tartness at the same time. From the olfactive point of view this is a green apple, slightly unripe and very crunchy – like Granny Smith apple I think. Apple in this perfume could be a nod to forbidden fruit that grew in the Garden of Eden. Following shortly is a realistic rhubarb accord that enhances the overall feeling of tartness and low bitterness.

Interesting move in the structure of Sirio is the use of white musk as a top note. Once apple and rhubarb dissipate, a sweetened fluffy cloud becomes more detectable. It softens everything in a significant way, even blurrs things a bit. Now it feels as if it was a cushion on top of which these 2 fruit are placed. A cotton candy cushion that doesn’t feel over-sugared. It seamlessly leads to Sirio’s heart that with a grace of ballerina dancers unveils flowers of rose and peony. Both seem very lightweight, almost transparent but they they add character and a gentle color to the composition.

sirio

Actually at first an apple-flavored sugary fluff of musk overpowers the flowers but later on they become more pronounced. Well, if you can use such description for floral tones that have pastel colors, silky petals and bring to mind delicacy and innocence. It surely is the most feminine part of Sirio but considering the perfume as a whole it’s pretty versatile. There’s also a little bit of plum for a fruity nuance. After some time apple note returns to me in a different form. This time it smells like a sparkling apple cider. I like the way Sirio changes and surprises over the course of the day.

Vanilla is the most important feature when it comes to Sirio and its drydown. This note is very much out there and in my opinion it has a ‘smart’ sweetness to it. It’s not sticky or like a pudding, more like a raw vanilla pod. It’s slightly sweet but also has a rum-like backnote that I like. Gaiac wood and cashmeran provide depth and dimension to the scent, at the same time they make it feel more solid, lightly woody. I didn’t smell oud that is listed in the notes. Finally amberwood molecule appears. It’s like an ambery cuddle that wraps everything together and then hugs you softly & gently.

Mendittorosa Sirio, named after a Sirius star, is a part of Talismans collection (sometimes refered to as separate brand) I don’t know if it manages to answer the eternal questions but I know for sure that it does smell pretty fabulous and like nothing else available on the market right now. It’s unique. And even though it doesn’t use many ingredients it develops a good complexity. Perfumer behind this fragrance is Amelie Bourgeois. It’s an extrait in 100 ml bottle with a hand made cap and pendant.

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