Tag Archives: niche

Smell you soon (I hope)

Under normal circumstances two weeks ago I would have travelled to the West and above the Alps to spend a magnificent weekend in Florence, Italy. There, during Pitti Fragranze, I would’ve had a chance to smell my way through a few dozens, if not a hundret of new perfume releases. We all know why it just didn’t come to be this year and why I had to stay at home, just like many other people who love frangrances as much as you or me. I miss Esxence and Pitti for obvious reasons – I can’t try as many new scents as I’d like to, I can’t meet my friends, both writers and brand owners, perfumers. Finally I can’t be in Italy, even if it were just for 2-3 days, to enjoy their delicious cuisine along with a glass of prosecco or aperol spritz. But those good days will come back, won’t they?

At times of global pandemy one can wonder how niche perfumery will deal with this new and very difficult state. I was thinking that brands might postpone their new launches & wait for better times since without these exhibitions it must be harder to bring same level of buzz & attention to the new compositions. And while I have an impression that niche brands have slowed down due to Covid-19, many have already adapted and present the fruit of their work to the public with the help of social media platforms. Of course it has less splendour than a special spotlight at the stand in Milan or Florence but curiosity of ‘hungry’ perfume fans eventually wins. I’m thankful to any brand who reached out to me during these difficult times. Without them I would write even less…

There’s a bunch of new or soon-to-be-released fragrances that I’m really looking forward to trying. Let me share a couple of them with you – maybe we’ll be together in the feeling of excitement?

Over the years we all got accustomed to a slow-paced creation process at Puredistance and that our waiting will be rewarded with something luxurious and of highest quality. Announced for October please be introduced to Rubikona – this perfume, with a name resulting from the junction of words ruby and icon, will be an 11th composition in brand’s portfolio. For a second time Jan Ewoud Vos invited Cecile Zarokian (Sheiduna, 2016) to collaborate. This will be a spicy floral, 28% perfume.

I like Gallivant but I know some of you don’t. However there’s always a but to a but. Have you ever heard of the city of Bukhara? Worry not, neither have it. It’s somewhere in Uzbekistan and Nick Steward decided this will be another location to pinpoint on the map of his fragrant journeys. My way to convince you to try it? It’s an iris. Orris! Hello! By perfumer Ralf Schwieger at that. I love Iris Nazarena he composed for Aedes. I know Gallivant has different easthetics but I think it’ll be fab.

In my opinion Perris Monte Carlo is one of those brands that aren’t very much spoken of which is totally unfair because they make great perfume. Some time ago I was captivated by Mimosa Tanneron which I long to try. I know it’s the first day of astronomical autumn today but why can’t I have some yellow cheer all year round? Dedicated to pom-pom flowers that grow around Grasse, this watercolor-like flower is now interpreted by Jean-Claude Ellena, a master of watery scents.

More iris? But of course! Is there such thing as enough iris for me? To be honest I rarely get excited by the releases in the mainstream perfume segment these days. Same goes for the more exclusive boutique lines from big brands. This time my interest was tickled when I read about Iris Torrefie from Guerlain, joining Art et la Matiere line. Orris with coffee? This could either go super right or super wrong. I signed up for a decant so I hope to make my own judgements soon.

Listen, I know what you might think but I’m not a real devotee of Memo. It just happens that I like a few fragrances from the brand. I actually find Italian Leather and Winter Palace to be the only 2 that would fit in my collection. New in Art Land collection is Odeon, named after Parisian theatre. Blend of rose, candied date, tonka and sandalwood sounds promising. There’s also Sintra, also new, with a Morrocan tiles motif on the bottle – but it’s supposed to smell like marshmallow, so not for me.

Are there any fragrances you’re waiting for to smell? Or maybe any of these 5 sounds interesting?

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True Reflection – Introduction to Esxence 2020

We only just celebrated the arrival of 2020 with champagne and fireworks, so it’s hard to believe that January ends this week! This one month swooshed like crazy so I don’t expect the next one to slow down. The time and the world we live in are both crazy these days, aren’t they? That’s why it’s already the time to look a bit ahead, because April will be on the horizon sooner than anyone would expect. Along with the arrival of spring Esxence will be on its way to bring us all the new things.

This year will mark the 12th edition of this artistic perfumery event and for my personal records it will be the 7th time I will be attending. As much as seven is a lucky number I have to admit I feel excitement but also I’m a bit scared and intimidated for what’s to come at Esxence 2020. After 5 years at The Mall Milano the event moves to a new location – MiCo, Milan Convention CentreĀ which is a huge upscale of the venue size, I’m sure I will feel a bit lost at first, before I learn who’s where.

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Upcoming edition theme is titled “Through the Mirror”. Organizers explain their choice with these words: “A mirror that reflects the successes of 2019 and sheds light on the future, showing the path to 2020 […] Perfume is actually the mirror of our personality, with the ability to narrate our most deep being and our essence. Yet at the same time it also has the potential to reflect a more concealed, mysterious side of us, a side we have not yet revealed: what we are and what we yearn to be.”

This year’s Esxence logo features a hand holding a round mirror and its color palette is based on Living Coral and Classic Blue – Pantone colors of 2019 and 2020 respectively. Following same path I took in previous editions, Chemist in the Bottle is going to go hand in hand with Esxence as a media partner. Once the event begins I will be your nose, your eyes and your ears to show and tell you what’s new and note-worthy. Fingers crossed it will be worth the wait. It begins on April 16.

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