Tag Archives: Nishane

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 47

bruma

It doesn’t happen too often when a famous candlemaker decides to try their chances in fine fragrance business. It was natural that I wanted to test the perfume from Trudon, especially the one named Bruma as it was listing iris in the formula. Thanks to a friend I got a sample. So primarily Trudon Bruma opens with a moist scent of the underground part of the iris plant. I smell roots – earthy but buttery at the same time, surrounded by the dampness of the dark soil that nurtures it. A little bit later a black pepper note intersects with it, making things more dry and with a slight yet noticeable metallic aftertaste. Then things get more flowery because of the violet and peony. The first one smells powdery and candied while the other flower is more fresh & watery-ozonic. Interesting twist is a presence of lavender. Its purple tinge adds a herbal-flowery feeling to Bruma and the powdery sensation still exists but is more in the back now. As hours pass a balsamic element emerges from the aromatic one. Combination of labdanum, tonka and dry vetiver introduce an effect that smells like ash to my nose. And it’s not something new – Aedes has done it much better with Iris Nazarena. Bruma is a correct perfume but not something that would make me crave for more. Can’t love them all.

b-612

If as a child you read or someone read to you The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupery you might remember that B-612 was the name of the asteroid on which the Prince lived. Inspired by this novella Nishane launched a duet of fragrances earlier this year and B-612 is one of the two. The perfume begins with a smell of cypress that combines elements of woody & green smells entwined more thick and oily scent one would associate with cypress oil. Then lavender accord follows and it’s sort of a baby lavender scent. Very gentle, floral with powdery nuances and muskiness that is very fluffly and cotton-like. Geranium changes this character a bit making B-612 more crispy and aromatic through the smell of its foliage. Heart features more heavy notes, like sandalwood or cedar that create a solid woody facet. There’s also this wet concrete effect of cashmere wood – it just doesn’t fit here in my opinion and patchouli sort of extends this impression. Drydown of Nishane B-612 mixes oakmoss, tonka and musk. The perfume certainly becomes a bit dusty while tonka spreads its creamy spiciness all around. I don’t consider this new Nishane as a bad perfume. There’s just something in its formula that really disturbs me every time I try to smell it on my skin.

delina

Making perfume as a way to commemorate horse races doesn’t seem like the most appealing motive, at least to me, that’s why I was never very interested in the range of Parfums de Marly. But since a sample of one of their newest creations – Delina ‘accidentally’ fell on my lap I decided to give it a try. On the first impression this is a generic fruity-floral composition as there are many of them on the market except this one is niche. The opening unveils an intensively fruity accord of lychee that is immersed in a sickeningly sweet sugar syrup. This level of sweetness is way too much for me. Rhubarb tries to temper it with its own tartness but it doesn’t have enough power to make a change. Then the perfume walks towards a big and decorative bouquet of red roses and pink peonies. Their floral scents entwine creating a nice concoction of flowery & soft powdery facets. Muguet adds an innocent and clear type of freshness to it. Then a lot of musk combined with cashmeran is revealed and its definitely a white musk smell. It’s fluffy and marshmallowy & additionally generously topped with vanilla. I just can’t handle it anymore. Additional notes that I didn’t pick include bergamot, nutmeg, woods and frankincense.

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Golden impressions of Esxence 2018 – day 3

Weekends at Esxence are always a bit hectic since it becomes open to the public, meaning anyone interested can enter. And believe me, Italians do come to smell some perfume. They often come as full families, even with little babies or with dogs (I’m sure their sense of smell goes crazy there!) For that reason I usually try to do my most important visits on Thursday or Friday. Then on Saturday I can smell things more casually and with less pressure. It usually works well if I do it like that.

I started the third day at Esxence from a visit in a conference room where one could listen to an interview with Michael Edwards first thing in the morning. I think he’s such an iconic person in a perfume industry that I just wouldn’t forgive myself if I didn’t attend it. Listening to how Mr Edwards started from being responsible for deodorant campaigns and how he got to creating The Fragrances of the World. Would you believe it all began as a simple and thin guide for fragrance associates in department stores? Nowadays it’s sort of a bible that collects data of thousands of fragrances.

After that I visited a stand of Extrait d’Atelier, an Italian brand owned by Chiara Ronzani. The brand interprets work of different artisans into fragrances and this spring they have launched a 4th composition dedicated to Maitre Ceramiste, a master of ceramics. The perfume is meant to evoke a workshop filled with the smell of clay and plaster, moist air and a bunch of tools used to carve the details. This fragrance masterfully combines spicy pink pepper and metallic notes, the smell of clay entwined with iris and incense with a woody base with oakmoss and amber. Review will come later.

Asian market is more and more open for the offerings of niche perfumery and in effect one of the trends is creating lighter, more wearable and inoffensive scents that would appeal to people from Japan or China. No surprise Miya Shinma appeared at Esxence with a bunch of light and airy fragrances. I especially liked Ruri which means blue in the old Japanese. I also admired Kimono Sakura, a blend of rose and peony to remind cherry blossom. That one was very harmonious.

Saturday was a day of talks and conferences for me as there were 3 in total that I wanted to attend. Second one that day was titled ‘100 years of chypre‘ and as you might guess it was an olfactory travel through the history of this classy perfume family. This conference was organized by Osmotheque. It was a lovely lesson starting from old, classic chypres and finishing at modern ones. I only regret that the speaker was using french, since I’m still a long way from being fluent. Also blotters were not distributed well so I didn’t receive a whole bunch of fragrances to smell.

At the lunch time I went outside to have a meeting with UNUM. This year they decided to be available at a private suite in a nearby appartment rather than inside Esxence. From what I’ve been told they are getting prepared to make some changes to their packaging. Also another perfume will be launched by the brand, it’s expected to arrive at Pitti. For now I can only say that inspiration for the fragrance was a scene from a movie. And it fits well the style of Filippo Sorcinelli work.
Nicolai was presenting their new scent – Cap Neroli, a beautiful and summery scent of orange blossoms drenched in the sunlight. I’m sure I’ll enjoy wearing it when it gets a little bit warmer.

Once I was back at Esxence venue I spent a couple of minutes discovering the line of Sylvaine Delacourte. I’ve been familiar with the name but never tried fragrances from this lady. She dedicated her first collection to musk and she just launched a new collection focused on vanilla. There are 5 different vanilla fragrances in it but one that seemed most interesting to me was named Valkyrie.
Jovoy also had a novelty at their stand and it was causing quite a lot of buzz between perfume enthusiasts. The new fragrance bears a name Remember Me. This new composition is signed by Cecile Zarokian. It’s her 2nd creation for the brand and it’s a very lush bouquet of frangipani.

My last discovery included smelling of 4 fragrances by Les Bains Guerbois. It’s an old bath house that nowadays works as a hotel in Paris. They decided to revive the heritage of colognes that were using during the times when the bath house was operating. I only tried them briefly on mouilettes so another test – this time on skin will happen in due course.
Final conference titled ‘2D perfumery: how Instagran culture is affecting fragrance design‘ was a fun thing to listen to. Panelists such as Sarah Baker, perfumer Alex Lee & Andy Tauer presented their point of view regarding how influential Instagram can be.

As you’ve probably noticed from the picture galleries I kept coming back to smell Neela Vermeire’s Niral every day! It was definitely my favorite fragrance at the fair this year… and that was it! Saturday came to the end and so did my visit in Milan. Same evening there was also an Esxence party but because my flight back to Poland was really early on Sunday and also because I didn’t get the invitation (and had no clothes to match a theme) I decided to skip it. I only treated myself to a great dinner in the evening. Some pasta, prosecco and a desert to say bye-bye to Italy for a while.

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A final word from me. As good as the whole 10th edition of Esxence might’ve looked like in my report I have to admit that I was quite disappointed this time. New releases from brands that exist for a couple of years now were really good but the offerings from newly created brands that just debuted on the market were plain boring. Most of the stuff smelled repetitive and similar to some other perfume created some years ago. Are they scared of being innovative? To make something that’ll shake the ground? Maybe they play safe now but will improve and open their minds later… I don’t know. I just wanted you to know how I felt and why there weren’t as many photos as usual.

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