Tag Archives: Olivier Durbano

Sensual Healing, Olivier Durbano Aram

I’m sure many of you will agree that living at times of covid can be stressful. Many of us are stuck at home without the possibility to check on our family & friends in other way than online. Furthermore we’re flooded with so much info these days that it becomes almost impossible to filter the good and bad news or to realize what’s true and what’s just a gossip. All this, not enough exercise and growing sleep problems affect our bodies and minds. At times like that it’s good to have a perfume that helps you realize that it’s absolutely okay to think about yourself and maintain own balance.

Aram unfolds on my skin with a fairly noticeable yet not overwhelming grapefruit note. Stripped off the sweaty vibe it can sometimes carry, what it brings to the table smells mostly aromatic to my nose. I can smell the zestiness of a freshly grated peel as well as some tartness coming from the pieces of the flesh. The juicy aspect is minimal, this is a more dry kind of grapefruit. After 5 minutes or so the fruit is engulfed in the resinous mass. Slightly salty & balsamic elemi comes to the fore, with a succulent spice-green aspect of artemisia mixed in. 2 steps farther from the front line there’s a smoky mist of frankincense hovering above the ground with cistus adding a balmy comfort.

It’s a thrill that this new fragrance from Olivier Durbano feels fresh yet not exactly because of the resinous notes that add density. Heart of Aram gives me the same impressions. The accord of green tea brings an exhilarating breath of crispness. Young green leaves steeped in the hot water to brew the most extraordinary beverage known for centuries. It feels warm on the skin and Damask rose enriches the bouquet with a silk texture of its petals and with a fragrance that is pure & pristine. Sweet acacia introduces a shiny, golden element of something floral & honeyed. At the same time tobacco shows a perfect synergy with it, adding a chewy, hay-like smokiness to it.

There’s also a hint of frankincense that descended to the heart of Olivier Durbano Aram from the top of the composition. At this point I got a weird sensation of smelling something yeast-y, like a ball dough rising in the warm kitchen. This ghostly feeling disappeared as fast as it came to me. Unfamiliar with such odour in perfume I wonder if the source of it was gum ammoniac, a gum obtained from some perennial herb. The drydown of Aram shows more substantivity than the rest of the fragrance. It combines hefty cedarwood with slightly burnt scent of myrrh, balsamic sweetness of benzoin with a hint of incense and vetiver. It’s blended to bring peace and comfort to the wearer.

I’ve been admiring the fragrant works of Olivier Durbano for years now as he was (still is) a cherished friend of Perfumeria Quality in Warsaw where I put my first steps in the world of niche perfume. But I was a silent admirer because I felt as if his fragrances were not meant to be worn by me. They didn’t feel right for me, with the exception of Pink Quartz (reviewed years ago). Today I think that Aram is more wearable and easier to approach. It has that inviting aura and the energy that you feel when someone hugs you. To me this perfume speaks of hope, of reassurance and perseverance. It’s like admitting we all have weaknesses but also the power to overcome them.

Aram by Olivier Durbano is a surprising and comforting perfume that came to me just in time to combat the bad mood caused by the gloomy autumn weather. It’s like a fragrant message from Olivier in which he’s trying to tell us that self-care is so very important in those weird, difficult times. I really like the way it smells and how it combines fresh notes with more striking and comforting ones. Aram is an eau de parfum that was introduced as a limited edition, in 100ml flacons. I don’t know about other distribution channels but on Olivier Durbano official website it says it’s sold out.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 57

It took me a month to share with you my holiday trip in Austria, Northern Italy and Switzerland. I hope that you enjoyed looking at the photos and hearing about places I visited. Now comes the time to talk about perfume again, though I had a little bit of hesitation to make my break slightly longer.

rolling-in-love

New from Kilian, except of having a name that makes me roll my eyes, is one of the more interesting releases over the last few years, at least for my taste. Rolling in Love opens with a mild, vegetal amber impression created with ambrette. It’s slightly cold and austere at the beginning but then it warms up thanks to the skin and other elements of the composition. Iris joins the scent after less than 5 minutes adding a buttery texture. Orris is a bit chalky, powdery and slightly on a dry side. I also find it to be more woody, slightly incensy even. Almond accord adds a sweet & milky facet that turns nutty and caramelized later. There’s a disturbing burning quality in it and for a moment Rolling in Love smells like bread pudding to my nose. Freesia and tuberose create a flirty floral bouquet of a creamy nature that doesn’t feel diffusive but more like clinging to the skin. Tonka bean absolute gives this new Kilian an oriental vibe due to releasing a spicy and aromatic and creamy cloud that is so specific for this material. In the end the entire scent immerses in sweet vanilla that has a rum booziness in the back. Rolling in Love would have been a gourmand if it wasn’t for the floral part. It’s not bad at all, super pricy though. I like the red-inside bottle but I can live without it.

jcb-heliotrope

Soon after the holiday months were over, Jean-Charles Brosseau introduced Heliotrope to his Fleurs d’Ombre range. The perfume was meant to keep our summer memories alive for a little bit longer, and it does it perfectly. The beginning brings forth a floral aroma that without a doubt is a violet. It’s quite strong for a couple of minutes, combining fresh, ozonic, powdery and verdant facets. When it becomes more sheer it’s time for citrusy tones to come and play. In case of Heliotrope it’s a bitter-sweet game, as firstly we have a sweet & juicy mandarine but secondly there’s a tart & tangy grapefruit to counterpart the first. Mimosa makes the perfume powdery in a dominating part. It’s scent, sweet like a flower pollen from tiny yellow pom-poms creates a bridge to the heart of the composition. Heart is where iris continues the powdery medley but in less sweet way. But in overall feeling this perfume is like a meadow – with every step you can meet something different. There’s also a rose, pink & innocent, a glamorous gardenia and of course heliotrope, powdery yet balsamic and flowery. The drydown of Jean-Charles Brosseau Heliotrope is like a warm hug. Ambery tones wrap around your neck like a scarf while creamy sandalwood and a white musks cocktail create an imaginary blanket that covers your arms. There’s a lot going on in this perfume and few times I thought there was too much at once, a bit of chaos in it but it’s an enjoyable scent in my overall verdict.

lapis-lazuli

Olivier Durbano and his fragrances named and inspired after semi-precious stones have quite a popularity, especially in Europe, and I know that Polish customers love these creations a lot. Lapis Lazuli, a 12th perfume opens with an aromatic pungence of green, slightly acrid and fatty cypress note. After a few minutes it becomes a bit more astringent and medicinal when tea tree accord kicks in. Artemisia keeps everything more grounded and earthy. Addition of clove simultaneously adds to the medicinal feel and also brings its own spiciness as a side pillar. Molecule of rose oxide adds a bit of a distant floral feel right there. Thyme gives Lapis Lazuli a herbal vibe that quickly softenes when immersed in a note described as plant milk. It smells green, sappy. Like a combination of fig milk and other things alike. Spelt and iris give this perfume an unexpected grainy texture that goes powdery after some time. Olivier Durbano fragrance wouldn’t suit his range if it wasn’t heavy on incense and other resins. That’s why you can find a thick elemi note in the base which is surrounded by parched vetiver and cedar wood with a cracked surface. It feels rigid, cold, yet there’s something melancholic there. Something that draws you deep into it. Ambergris and tolu add to the balsamic density of the composition. Musk is a hint of dirty but it gets engulfed in the incense wave.

I’ll be abroad on a business trip for half of this week and on Friday it’s All Saints’ Day & I’ll be visiting family graves. I don’t think I will be able to write another article this week. Next week for sure!

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