Tag Archives: Olivier Pescheux

Rues de Paris, Diptyque Eau Capitale

I’ve been to Paris a few times last year but if someone asked me to tell them how Paris smells I think I wouldn’t be able to answer. Paris is huge, each arrondisement is different. The area I’ve been walking through smells of espresso & buttery croissants, of warm baguette at boulangerie, of traffic fumes and dirty soapy water poured on the streets by shop owners who mopped the floor before opening their boutiques. Not a perfect image, eh? But Diptyque came up with a much appealing interpretation of the city that is home for the brand. It’s a chypre… because chypre is chic?

Eau Capitale starts with and old-school bergamot note which feels citric-bitterish, very zesty yet a little bit dried up at the same time. After a couple of minutes this bergamot peel becomes a tad dirty, developing some sort of a charred effect. Just few moments later a thick cloud of pink pepper bursts right in your face, unapologetically overtaking the scent for the time being. Its spiciness, fizzy and shimmering dominates and fills the nose with its fragrance. There’s a bit of metallic quality as well.

This lasts for some time but unlike Jessica, I noticed zero cumin in this part of Eau Capitale. The smell of pink peppercorns gradually kept fading away and when it moved to the 2nd plan, the rose accord emerged in the front row. I find the rose aspect of the new Diptyque to be quite aromatic at first, with an accent put particularly on geranium (with inflections of cold mint). Then rose becomes rose, of a lipstick color but a little faded away and dusty. It has a charming retro vibe that I like.


Despite dustiness that I’m mentioning above, rose of Diptyque Eau Capitale is not dark. Actually thanks to the presence of ylang in the composition the perfume gains some shiny threads of luminous creaminess that adds a nice mellowness. When smelling Eau Capitale I think of a rose scented potpourri one would place inside a wardrobe with their favourite clothes. After some time its scent would impregnate the wooden frame of the furniture and permeate the garments.

Eau Capitale later moves to a contemporary chypre territory. Scent of dried rose petals entwine with cleanlified patchouli, which does have an earthy and plum-like facet but it’s much cleaner your standard patchouli. Modern oakmoss adds some structured aromatics to the composition. Eventually all of these things become more quiet and transparent, which in the end leads to an ambery-woody base composed of Givaudan specialty ingredients they patented – Akigalawood and Georgywood.

They both have a warm, soft, rounded profile with some golden ambery hues. I also found cinnamon mentioned among the notes but while it didn’t make a statement, it probably contributed to the warmth of the base. Eau Capitale by Diptyque is the 1st chypre from the brand (can you believe?) It’s not a heavy-hitter chypre from the past but it surely does make a statement. This new creation by Olivier Pescheux goes well along with my taste and I see myself wearing it on regular basis.

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Tempus Fugit, Diptyque 50th Anniversary Duet

In the recent years perfume market got even more competitive than it was before. It’s especially visible in the niche sector where new brand sprout each season as mushrooms after the rain. Sadly that also makes seeking for good quality more difficult. For those brands each successful year is a big achievement and come to think of it – most of the niche perfume brands that I know, like & wear are no older than 10 years old. Even 10 years would be considered a milestone but turns out there’s someone who beat that number by 5 times. Believe it or not but it’s been 50 years since Diptyque launched their first perfume. They celebrate the achievement with 2 new creations.


Right off the bat Tempo explodes on my skin with a big cloud of patchouli. It smells rich & highly saturated, even becoming oily at times. For the first couple of minutes it smells rather camphorous and mentholated on my skin. When they pass, patchouli becomes way more earthy and it also develops the scent of roots grown deeply into a moist ground. According to Diptyque this composition features 3 different patchouli extracts from Sulawesi Island in Indonesia. This smell of undergrowth was a little bit too much for me but the longer Tempo sits on my skin the more good things about it I can see. When clary sage joins the composition the perfume becomes more aromatic and drops a few pounds off its weight. Violet Leaf instantly gives Tempo a green crunchiness. It’s more fresh and exhilarating, a bit dewy too and through that it provides a contrast. Mate absolute introduces a tea flavored dryness that’s really beautiful. In the end there’s pink pepper that makes a warm & soft statement of own spiciness. In the perfume universe where patchouli has been stripped off its identity through countless of various fractions that make it smell almost clean, Diptyque Tempo will stand out as a nod to patchouli of old times featured in a modern fragrance. Tempo certainly is a nuanced woody & earthy blend but it also presents a lot of elegance.


Fleur de Peau opens with a somewhat cold manner as it diffuses a mellow scent of ambrette. The specific smell of this vegetal musk ingredient is clearly present in this very Diptyque perfume. Few minutes later aldehydes start to shimmer quietly, introducing more brightness to the scent. It doesn’t take long after they become more confident and start their happy bubbling. When these aldehydic bubbles are released an instant feeling of cleanliness & freshness is delivered. From up close the smell mimics the fragrance of a new cotton t-shirt almost impeccably. And we’re talking of a high quality white t-shirt made out of a thick yarn. The one that keeps you cool when hot & warm when cold. Through the musky notes I get the additional feeling as if it was freshly steamed/ironed as well. Then a wonderful powdery iris takes over the lead in Fleur de Peau. The powderness feels quite luxurious at first however the other time I tried it my impression was different – I smelled something like chalk instead of lovely powder. Ambery tones of ambergris & amber wood warm up the scent and make it more sensual. At later stage of development iris becomes more carroty and is joined by rose. Those floralties add to the overall feeling of cleanliness. Pink pepper sparkles quietly in the back while ambrettolide gives Fleur de Peau a skin scent transparency. It’s quite pretty.

I think that both Tempo and Fleur de Peau are great additions to pretty varied Diptyque range. I can certainly imagine that popularity of those two will go high, especially Tempo since many perfume lovers crave for a good patchouli fragrance. If it was up to me I would probably try to create something that would give people a big WOW effect upon spraying on skin. If I would regularly wear these 50th Diptyque anniversary fragrances is a different matter. As Undina suggested, I will wait for colder weather to re-test them. Diptyque Fleur de Peau & Tempo are creations of Olivier Pescheux, each of them is an eau de parfum in a 75 ml signature oval bottle. Which one would you try first?

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