Tag Archives: Ormaie

Spring Forward, Ormaie Les Brumes

I have mixed feelings now. In the current situation around the world, with the increasing number of people affected by Covid-19 virus and more restrictions being put on citizens (in Poland some new ones were added yesterday) there are more important things than perfume. It just doesn’t spark so much joy temporarily. But then again in those hard times when social interactions are limited we need something to keep up the good spirit. Perfume can’t save the world but it can save your own sanity right now. So I have another fragrance from Ormaie I want to talk about today.

Les Brumes (Eng. mists) is a shy fragrance for which the play of subtleties is a key to appreciation. When the first droplets of a fragrant liquid touch your skin, it’s like delicate wake up call, like the ray of a morning sunlight that somehow sneaked into your bedroom through the blinds. Calm but vibrant smell of lemon enters your nostrils with certain laziness. It’s an energizing scent but it’s not straight in your face. Shortly mandarin and bergamot join the composition and since in both cases the perfumer accentuated their juicy facets, the perfume becomes a truly mouth-watering cocktail.

What really gets my attention in this citrus trio of Ormaie Les Brumes is the fact that the opening is characterized by an extraordinary purity. That lemon, lime and mandarin smell really clean, transparent, with absolutely nothing getting in the way of enjoying their aromas. Later on ginger appears in this concoction and adds a little bit of that specific, lemon-flavoured piquancy. This effect of spiciness only makes the citrus part more pretty. After a while citric notes start to dissipate – that’s when the scent starts to make some gentle shifts. Those subtle changes make the scent alive.

les-brumes-ormaie

Juiciness subsides and in its place some slightly herbaceous tones appear. There is a hint of sage which has a slightly green, sappy scent with a gently mentholy undertone which is almost ‘invisible’ to the nose. Cardamom also made its way to the heart of the composition but in my case it doesn’t seem to make any serious statement. Sage and the remaining citrus whispers still get most of my attention. I was surprised to see that Les Brumes lists jasmine and tuberose. Yes, I did notice some floral tones lifting up from the top of my wrist but it was more of an abstract accord, nothing specific.

Neither tuberose nor jasmine are my BFFs so let me tell you I didn’t smell anything indolic that would give me an idea that there’s one of those flowers in this very fragrance. Flowery tones, whatever they are, give Les Brumes a thread of plant-derived sweetness. When the base notes come to the foreground the perfume doesn’t lose any of its lightness and airiness. Usually more hefty notes like cedarwood, sandalwood or vetiver are carefully woven into this fragrance. They provide longevity (mind that hours later I can still smell some citrus from the top) and add depth.

Normally I don’t like press materials written by the brands because they are full of unnecessary blabber that doesn’t tell you much about the perfume itself. But in case of Ormaie and Les Brumes, the description is simply spot on. This fragrance is a vision of memories of a morning among citrus trees. It’s a vision of a magical moment when the morning fog vanishes, revealing a citrus orchard and the forests that surround it. It’s a beautiful picture and the perfume really reflects that. Should you search for an extraordinary citrus, this should be one of your top contenders.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 59

There’s been quite a break from MQS lately, so here you have it – first time in 2020!

fm-rose-cuir

Quite an earthquake happened in the perfume land in 2019 when Frederic Malle announced their collaboration with perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. People were curious what this fragrance is going to be like. Rose & Cuir was launched and relatively quickly the perfume has divided the fans because some totally loved it, others didn’t understand the whole buzz. I’m in that 2nd group. On my skin Rose & Cuir starts with a smell of dried peppermint, herbaceous and a bit like a tea. After few minutes the perfume develops a strong geranium facet – green, sappy, crunchy. It’s also slightly mentholated. Later on I could smell something denser and a bit fuzzy but with austere vibe to it. I suppose this perfume simply doesn’t correspond with my skin. I had no expectations but in my opinion the name is highly misleading.

le-passant-ormaie

Ormaie has surprised me in a very positive way with their L’Ivree Bleue, which I’m considering to buy as a birthday gift to myself. After that review the brand was super kind to send me samples of the remaining fragrances in the line up. Le Passant would be one of the more masculine ones there. It begins with herbal tones of lavender and zesty splash of bergamot. These two give the perfume a clean & soapy vibe of a barbershop salon. After a little while lavender takes a central stage with provencal lavender joining in. This time it feels sweeter, tad more floral and kind of honeyed in the back. There’s also something powdery hiding deeper. When vanilla and tonka come to the front Le Passant becomes mellow, sweet & aromatic. I can’t escape the feeling it’s a nod to manly classics like Caron Pour Un Homme. With a contemporary twist.

between-two-trees

Floraiku is a perfume brand that branched out from the creators of Memo. But as much as I like Memo and some of their scents, I haven’t tried any of the Floraiku offerings until now. Hat tip to Undina for sharing some samples with me. Between Two Trees is an interesting scent but it doesn’t call ‘love’ to me. For a relatively long span it’s a story of a grapefruit. At first I smell its yellow rind, a bit waxy and more uplifting and aromatic when you start to shred it. Then there’s the smell of the white part – albedo, which has a specific scent between the peel and the fruit. Finally there’s the juicy sweetness of the pulp. Absolute of mate gives this perfume a Japanese vibe through this tea evocation. The last ingredient listed by the brand is vetiver. Its root gives an earthy, woody and slightly dry finish to the scent. Simultaneously it moves this perfume slightly closer to the masculine area.

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