Tag Archives: Parfums de Marly

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 47

bruma

It doesn’t happen too often when a famous candlemaker decides to try their chances in fine fragrance business. It was natural that I wanted to test the perfume from Trudon, especially the one named Bruma as it was listing iris in the formula. Thanks to a friend I got a sample. So primarily Trudon Bruma opens with a moist scent of the underground part of the iris plant. I smell roots – earthy but buttery at the same time, surrounded by the dampness of the dark soil that nurtures it. A little bit later a black pepper note intersects with it, making things more dry and with a slight yet noticeable metallic aftertaste. Then things get more flowery because of the violet and peony. The first one smells powdery and candied while the other flower is more fresh & watery-ozonic. Interesting twist is a presence of lavender. Its purple tinge adds a herbal-flowery feeling to Bruma and the powdery sensation still exists but is more in the back now. As hours pass a balsamic element emerges from the aromatic one. Combination of labdanum, tonka and dry vetiver introduce an effect that smells like ash to my nose. And it’s not something new – Aedes has done it much better with Iris Nazarena. Bruma is a correct perfume but not something that would make me crave for more. Can’t love them all.

b-612

If as a child you read or someone read to you The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupery you might remember that B-612 was the name of the asteroid on which the Prince lived. Inspired by this novella Nishane launched a duet of fragrances earlier this year and B-612 is one of the two. The perfume begins with a smell of cypress that combines elements of woody & green smells entwined more thick and oily scent one would associate with cypress oil. Then lavender accord follows and it’s sort of a baby lavender scent. Very gentle, floral with powdery nuances and muskiness that is very fluffly and cotton-like. Geranium changes this character a bit making B-612 more crispy and aromatic through the smell of its foliage. Heart features more heavy notes, like sandalwood or cedar that create a solid woody facet. There’s also this wet concrete effect of cashmere wood – it just doesn’t fit here in my opinion and patchouli sort of extends this impression. Drydown of Nishane B-612 mixes oakmoss, tonka and musk. The perfume certainly becomes a bit dusty while tonka spreads its creamy spiciness all around. I don’t consider this new Nishane as a bad perfume. There’s just something in its formula that really disturbs me every time I try to smell it on my skin.

delina

Making perfume as a way to commemorate horse races doesn’t seem like the most appealing motive, at least to me, that’s why I was never very interested in the range of Parfums de Marly. But since a sample of one of their newest creations – Delina ‘accidentally’ fell on my lap I decided to give it a try. On the first impression this is a generic fruity-floral composition as there are many of them on the market except this one is niche. The opening unveils an intensively fruity accord of lychee that is immersed in a sickeningly sweet sugar syrup. This level of sweetness is way too much for me. Rhubarb tries to temper it with its own tartness but it doesn’t have enough power to make a change. Then the perfume walks towards a big and decorative bouquet of red roses and pink peonies. Their floral scents entwine creating a nice concoction of flowery & soft powdery facets. Muguet adds an innocent and clear type of freshness to it. Then a lot of musk combined with cashmeran is revealed and its definitely a white musk smell. It’s fluffy and marshmallowy & additionally generously topped with vanilla. I just can’t handle it anymore. Additional notes that I didn’t pick include bergamot, nutmeg, woods and frankincense.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 16

Time for another portion of the Quick Sniffs. Here’s a couple of things that I recently got in a swap.

The idea of creating perfumes inspired by the elements from the Periodic Table really speaks to me as a chemist. That’s why I was pretty excited to finally try a scent from the Nu_Be line. I started by exploration of this house with Carbon [6C]. The opening is a lovely warm spicy blend of pepper combined with slightly fresh-spicy aroma of cardamom. The mixture heats up in a few minutes slowly turning into a sandalwood accord. It’s creamy and mellow. There’s also some balsamic quality to it. After 40 minutes I was 100% sure that sandalwood is a synthetic here. Later I could smell some delicately powdery iris mixed with ginger what introduced a woody element to this stage. The drydown was resinous and bright, slightly sweet (honey?) with green undertones appearing here and there. Generally speaking Nu_Be Carbon [6C] is a lovely perfume, it’s longevity is around 6-8 hours but… it’s sillage is a disaster. Even immediately after spraying the perfume stays very close to the skin. Nu_Be is an Italian brand, fragrances are eau de parfums. The packaging is a Styrofoam casing! Would love to discover another scents from this line. 2012 launch.

French niche fragrance brand, Parfums de Marly introduced a perfume called Herod in 2012. From the very beginning it emanates very mild but rich smell of tobacco leaves. It’s a little bit smoky, chewy and narcotic. After 20 minutes vanilla joins the composition making the “pipe accord” sweeter, more creamy and sensual. Touch of cinnamon brings more fiery spiciness to the composition. A while later I get the smell of osmanthus flowers. It doesn’t give a floral smell, it’s rather juicy and evoking the scent of rum with osmanthus infusion. Incense and labdanum make it for a smoky stage and a prelude to the woody (and slightly sweaty) smell of cedar and vetiver. I swear that after couple of hours Herod smelled to me like a drydown of Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris. It smelled of salty driftwood. Late stage of this composition was spicy and warm because of the pepper and a little bit of cypriol oil. The composition also mentions the presence of Iso E Super. I think Herod is a nice perfume. It has a decent longevity (8-10 hours) but it could have better sillage. The perfumer standing behind this Parfums de Marly scent is Olivier Pescheux.

“A fire broke out in the Curling Bros. barbershop in Westlake, N.Y. in 1891. All the shaving tonics with their spearmint, lime, vanilla&lavender burned. A charred bottle was found half-full. It smelled like this.” – says the short story behind D.S & Durga Burning Barbershop. This perfume is made mainly with lavender but it doesn’t smell of it at all. The opening stage has an antiseptic, rubbing alcohol, lysol-like smell. After a couple of minutes it transforms into a smoky perfume that to me smells of a smoked ham, or should I say over-smoked ham. Lime is juicy here but it has a sharp, acidic smell loaded with acridness. There’s also a hint of vanilla and mint that really evoke the barbershop feeling of al the shaving creams, lotions. I don’t know how long does it stay on the skin or how’s its sillage. I just couldn’t bear the aroma of Burning Barbershop and had to scrub it after 1 hour. My bad! Not ashamed at all…

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