At Chemist in the Bottle there’s a certain pool of fragrances that are rarely being spoken of. Like soliflores or perfume with a specific level of oddity. Simple reason for that is the fact that I like to talk to you about the fragrances that speak to me, about the notes I love, scents I want to encourage you to explore. Hence no flourishing reviews on animalics or heady florals on my blog. But from time to time the rules can be broken when you find a perfume that is worth recommending even it it’s not your usual cup of tea. So here I have for you 2 classic compositions from Perris Monte Carlo.
Rose de Mai is a tribute to may rose that grows in the valleys surrounding Grasse. This perfume begins with lush bouquet of rose which feels much more airy and fragile than rich & opulent compositions associated with the Orient. This is a rose with pink petals that are delicate, as soft as silk fabric. In the opening Rose de Mai is undeniably feminine as rose absolute steals all the spotlight. After some time it becomes more mellow and develops some unisex qualities. Handful of geranium brings a wave of freshness to this perfume. It’s crisp, almost dewy scent paints an impression of an early morning in the French countryside.
Geranium effuses its green scent around the rose bushes, turning the scenery into a magic garden. On my skin there’s a moment when it becomes almost minty in character, adding an aromatic twist to this minimalistic yet pretty perfume. At the later stage of development Rose de Mai becomes just a tiny bit spicy – when immortelle joins, it adds that specific herbaceous-spicy nuance with a hint of curry. It’s really well-behaved and enhances the rose tones. Musk gives a soft, pillow-like base to the composition. It’s a pretty interpretation of a rose theme. Sometimes it’s all you need to feel happy.
Jasmin de Pays is a straight up jasmine served on a silver platter with perfumer initials engraved on its edge. This grand bouquet is made of thousands of white flowers that intoxicate the air with their heady fragrance. There’s no doubt about the presence of indolic molecules as the perfume effuses the scent that cannot be mistaken! It’s big and demanding attention but at least this jasmine doesn’t become beasty or overly animalic after a short time. The composition of Jasmin de Pays also lists clove but it really takes some time before jasmine becomes lighter and lets a little bit of that spiciness to peek through and be noticed.
One thing about Perris Monte Carlo Jasmin de Pays I could easily notice is that similarly to Rose de Mai the perfume feels relatively green, but that verdancy smells completely different. In jasmine one it’s more of a leafy type of green, like petitgrain… mixed with the smell of crushed stems of unripe flowers. Later on the scent becomes quite creamy, as if some frangipani joined jasmine for this performance, adding a hint of something exotic. For a soliflore Jasmin de Pays is very potent and lasts through a big part of the day. When it dries down it becomes soft and fluffy thanks to musk.
Both these fragrances are really well done and I appreciate their artistry and the way they try to convey the purity of the smell of rose and jasmine. Still I don’t think I’d wear any of these on regular basis. Perris Monte Carlo made a wise, strategic decision by teaming up with perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena to evoke Grasse flowers in Rose de Mai and Jasmin de Pays. You can clearly see his hand in these fragrances, the style that is light, minimalistic, even ascetic. Both fragrances are concentrated at eau de parfum level and they are available in 100 ml bottles.