Tag Archives: PHI

6 Perfume Ideas for Christmas Festivities

tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock goes the clock, counting down the days until Christmas. There are only 9 days of Advent before the festive time is here, so if you haven’t yet met Santa to tell him what presents your family and relatives would like to find under the tree, this is almost your last chance to do it before it’s too late. As for myself I already completed my Santa quest and together with my Dad we’ve found a perfect spruce on Saturday. We plan to dress it in lights & ornaments next weekend probably. I don’t feel the atmosphere of Christmas yet but it will come to me eventually. It has to.

Christmas time is always filled with positive feelings, with good smiles and kindness. Everyone and everything seems to have that inner shine that we often don’t have on a day-to-day basis. Things look a bit prettier and even strangers seem more friendly. For me this is also the time to unwind and relax. For Christmas Eve and Christmas Day you probably put on some special clothes to be dressed more festive & elegant. And since for us perfume is an essential element of our outfit, you probably already started deliberating what perfume to wear on that special occasion.

Here are a few ideas of fragrances that I would wear to celebrate Christmas festivities.


Guerlain Iris Ganache – For me iris is not only a favorite note but in my opinion it is also one of the most elegant smells in perfumery, which makes it suitable for many different celebrations. In case of Iris Ganache you have a richness of a white chocolate served in a mousse-light form. It it surrounded by a buttery texture of iris that goes more powdery later on. Topped with a bit of zest and sprinkled with cinnamon for a delicious feeling on your skin. This perfume melts with your body, leaving a transparent vanillic-ambery veil to enjoy on that special evening. It’s a very smart gourmand.

Tauer Phi Une Rose de Kandahar – A list like this wouldn’t feel complete if there wasn’t at least one rose perfume among my suggestions. Fruity opening with a gorgeous apricot accord leads to the heart where roses, geranium and bitter almond meet. The result is an incredibly rich, yet not overpowering fragrant blend. Phi feels plush, velvety and uber luxurious and the smell of tobacco leaf makes this perfume stand out even more in the crowd. As hours pass tonka, vanilla and musk form a silky cocoon around your body. With Phi you’ll be the best smelling one at midnight mass.

Aedes Cierge de Lune – Chrismas is the time that brings more light to our life, so why not decide on a perfume that can light up the night. Starting with a shimmering crystal accord that has a slightly mineral scent, after a couple of minutes this perfume starts to reveal a very unusual and intriguing vanilla like I’ve never smelled before. It’s oriental but airy, not sweet but delicious. Surrounded by black and pink pepper, ylang, ambroxan and musk, among others, this perfume is sure to make you feel glamorous and special when you’re with your family, enjoying those days together.

Diptyque Oud Palao – I think that during Christmas there’s no need to hide behind a perfume or limit oneself. Why not go all out? Oud Palao definitely isn’t a quiet fragrance. It’s there to make a statement. With a bold smell of Laotian oud that has a strong, resinous sillage you surely will be noticed. Patchouli, cypriol and labdanum add more personality to the scent with their dark vibe. When frankincense makes Oud Palao slightly smoky, vanilla and rose smooth all the sharp edges making this a super enjoyable fragrance. I especially love it when it’s colder outside.

Atelier des Ors Cuir Sacre – Even though leathery notes can pack a serious punch there are also ways to tone them down and bring up their softness & elegance. To me Cuir Sacre from Atelier des Ors is like that. Initially it’s really powerful, with metallic juniper, spicy cardamom and oily green elements of cypress. Leather with backnote of incense and vetiver is really potent but thanks to saffron it becomes more mellow and eventually it becomes more fuzzy, like a suede. This perfume would be highly recommended to any stylish men who wants to make a good impression.

Puredistance Gold – Complex oriental composition that evokes luxury and refinement is an ideal candidate to put on for a Christmas Eve. Puredistance Gold is a beauty in many ways. Spicy at the beginning with accentuated clove, gradually becoming more balmy and mysterious. Cinnamon gives it a nice twist of a tingly sensation. Myrrh, benzoin and styrax create warmth on the skin. Tonka and vanilla give Gold more depth and they improve its roundness as a whole. Despite many potent essences this perfume is charming and supple. You won’t be disappointed to wear it for Christmas.

If you already decided what perfume are you going to wear for Christmas I’d be delighter to hear about your choices and why did you pick that scent in particular. I’m sure you’ll smell fabulous.

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

‘Tis the season for fruits, roses and spices, Andy Tauer Perfumes PHI Une Rose de Kandahar

To me Andy Tauer is a person to admire. To achieve this much being a self-taught perfumer with solid chemical knowledge base is not easy nowadays. But I believe that one of these days I will be like him, creating perfumes under my own label. After a longer period of being idle he launched Noontide Petals earlier this year. In November Andy has a special treat for his fans. According to his blog, he received an extremely rare rose oil made from roses growing in Nangarhar, Afghanistan’s rose region. With this oil he decided to make a special, limited fragrance, for Holiday 2013 season.

φ PHI Une Rose de Kandahar, for that’s the name this perfume bears is a really luxurious and unusual blend of many different ingredients that usually cannot be seen in one composition. The first waft of Une Rose de Kandahar brings the loveliest apricot accord I’ve ever smelled. It’s so rich and smooth, kind of fuzzy like the slightly pink skin on this fruit. It feels incredibly elegant as for a fruity note. There’s also something fresh and crisp about this accord.

In 15 minutes the apricot becomes weaker and the perfume begins to warm up. It’s cinnamon that is responsible for this behavior of PHI. It smells warm and it smells spicy. There’s also something cuddly in this note, not to mention that there’s this mild sweetness around it. For a while this aroma reminds me of hot gingerbread cookies. Is Une Rose de Kandahar a gourmand perfume? Not exactly, although it contains a couple of ingredients that might suggest that.

The sweetness that I mentioned just few lines earlier – it never becomes overpowering or sticky. Maybe that’s because of a bitter almond that counterparts sweet with bitter so that they attain a perfect harmony, a balance. Then, there’s also a juicy hint of bergamot. Its acidic flavor blends nicely with other ingredients without pushing any of them to the front. In my opinion the conjunction of apricot and cinnamon is the best part in the opening of PHI. These notes evolve from one to another in around 1 hour.

So after the fist hour of wearing Une Rose de Kandahar is over we’re slowly getting access to the heart of the composition. All the spicy notes are fading away, unveiling the curtain. Behind it there are roses. The Nangarhar region rose is amazing. It gives the full-bodied, voluptuous scent, very rich and powerful. It’s seductive and mesmerizing, like a little red dress. Few adjectives that can be used to describe it are: smooth, velvety and royal. That’s how Une Rose de Kandahar smells like.

30 minutes after that diva rose appeared on the scene, the perfume starts to effuse some additional accords. What I smell is probably some plum. It has a slightly candied odour plus there’s also some sheer smokiness to it. Then rose is amplified with Bulgarian rose absolute so that no one has doubts about the key-note in PHI. The more time it sits on the skin, the stronger become the other floral notes. I’m not sure but I think I noticed osmanthus (I got a tea reminding aroma) and maybe marigold? Won’t bet on it. After a few hours PHI Une Rose de Kandahar undergoes another change.

At the mark of 3rd (or maybe it was 4th) hour this special Andy Tauer perfume becomes something utterly amazing and unbelievable. PHI emanates the most beautiful and seductive tobacco accord. Oh My God! What a rich and good vibe it has. You can almost see the golden color of this note and if you ask me I just have to say that I smell lots of wonderful honey combined with it. It takes my breath away. I cannot stop sniffing my arm every couple of seconds. I think I could smell like this forever. Can you believe that in Une Rose de Kandahar it was the 1st time Andy used tobacco absolute in perfumes!? Only someone of incredible talent could make such a great use of a new material.

The super cool thing about the tobacco accord in Une Rose de Kandahar is the fact that it doesn’t smell smoky like a cigarette, but it’s more woody and animalic, kind of wild also. All the impressions of tobacco, honey and spices are very lovely and they last for amazing few hours. I think that the base notes started to appear after 6-7 hours. It continues the journey on the same path.

Press materials for φ say that it contains lots of patchouli. But I can’t smell it! So it’s either a woody kind of patchouli (because I smell wood) either it’s transparent to my nose. What I smell for sure is a wonder-vanilla. It blends so nicely with tobacco and woodsy hints of vetiver that it’s hard for my mouth not to water. Tobacco + vanilla is such an exquisite and decadent blend. There’s also tonka bean that introduces a creamy facet to the drydown.

There are also musk and ambergris that shine brightly after many hours that Une Rose de Kandahar spent on my skin. They even effuse both animalic and mineral, softer tones alternately. When the perfume gets near the finale one can smell the explosion of different aromas that appeared throughout. I can smell cinnamon, tobacco, rich roses, vanilla, tonka. Every one of these notes sparkle with different light but together they create one big flash for the olfaction. At the moment you can’t find the other perfume on the market that would smell like PHI. It’s innovative! That’s it.

PHI Une Rose de Kandahar joins the Collectibles family of Andy Tauer Perfumes. It’s a special edition fragrance dedicated to Holiday 2013 season (this is going to be a super Christmas gift!) and because of the rarity of Nangarhar rose oil it will be available only until the stocks lasts. Once the last bottle is sold – it’s gone. PHI comes in 50ml pentagonal bottle made of green glass. It can be yours also in 15ml travel spray as a part of Explorer Set. Preorders accepted as of the beginning of November. The products will be shipped after mid November. PHI is an eau de parfum.

On me it lasts forever – definitely more than 12 hours. Its power is great at the beginning and becomes more subtle with time. It goes stronger for around 8 hours and then the sillage drops.

[note] A big thank you to Andy Tauer for a sample. All pictures via PHI press release or Tauer Blog.

Tagged , , , , ,