Tag Archives: Pierre Guillaume

Autumn Breath, Pierre Guillaume Jasmagonda

I don’t miss summer months yet, especially that we currently have even 15°C during the day which didn’t happen in November over last century or so. But due to reversing time by 1 hour few weeks ago the sun sets so early. It’s only a matter of couple of days until it’ll be down before I leave from work – just a though of that is a bit depressing. If something can keep my spirits high it’s tea, cinnamon cookies and perfume of course. My recent issue is that I didn’t bring that many samples from Pitti. I need more blog-worthy material. Good that Pierre Guillaume doesn’t disappoint.

To my nose Jasmagonda opens with tart juiciness of an apple. Crispy & crunchy facets of apple create a delicious symphony of intertwining flavors. At the beginning I have an impression of freshly cut fruit ‘dressed’ in green peel but after a couple of minutes it starts to blush – red color appears on our apple and at the same time a timid sweetness appears. Followed by acidic facets introduced by bergamot & grapefruit the perfume now gains a contrast of tastes. It’s mouth-watering in multiple ways, not to mention that apple slices dipped in citric juice sound like an apple pie baking tip.

After around 20 minutes the scent becomes noticeably more watery. Dilution of Jasmagonda is an effect of aquatic notes which are a part of this composition. Its smell turns more transparent and gains more clarity. Personally I detect a marine breeze with faint salty algae floating in the background. At this point Jasmagonda sure takes more of an airy approach. Floral nuances of jasmine form an element of surprise since it feels very pure and translucent. It’s like white-tinged sunny brightness. A lightweight, innocent jasmine staying very far from its indolic self.

jasmagonda

Such nature of jasmine in Pierre Guillaume Jasmagonda finds its explanation later on – that is when magnolia joins the composition. Through this flower we remain in the same narrative. Silky petals that marry together watery, floral and citrusy properties serve as a great continuation of jasmine that is so white and delicate as snowflakes. In addition to that the perfume also develops a verdant facet that smells like flower stems and reminds me of the way it smells inside of flower shops. This whole feeling of white becomes more creamy over time and some heaviness is added.

It happens because of tonka bean – it makes floral tones creamy, almost milky with some added sweetness and facets of subdued, warm spiciness braided with aromatic properties. It’s the smell of comfort & safety. Cedar is responsible for bringing more substantivity but to be honest I didn’t notice that it made any big impact on Jasmagonda. Vanilla on the contrary – it enhances the comforting feeling of tonka by adding warm, buttery sweetness. Once it combines with woody/grassy vetiver I get an impression of a woody pudding. A concoction of sweet & wood notes that go well together.

I was intrigued by this new fragrance made by Pierre Guillaume. On one hand it evokes memories of the past Summer but on the other hand it offers the warmth of a scent that I’m happy to wear in the Autumn. I guess it fits both of these seasons in a specific way. Jasmagonda lasts for a good amount of time and has moderate intensity. After recently launched Komorebi this is another scent to join Collection Rework. Numbered as 23.1, Jasmagonda is an alteration of Drama Nuui from 2008. This new eau de parfum is available in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles (with now updated label-stamp look).

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Defining Undefined at Pitti Fragranze 2018 – part 3

My second day at Pitti Fragranze was full of interesting and unexpected events. I tried many perfume on that day, met some new people & listened to some interesting conversations and panel discussions that broadened my horizons and taught me new things about scent culture in different parts of the world. In the evening some spontaneous actions resulted in having the most amazing dinner in Florence ever. Surrounded by 4 perfumers, 2 brand owners, fellow blogger and few more people by the table we enjoyed food, drinks and conversations. It was a good day.

Normally at the end of my 2nd day at the fair I would’ve been cautious to not stay out too long. It’s because I always had to pack all my stuff beforehand so that I could leave my rented room early in the morning to arrive at the airport on time. But not this year. Return flights were not in my favor either and Aeroporto di Bologna was closed for a few days including the weekend when I was in Florence. In the end I decided to stay in Italy for a bit longer and fly back home on Tuesday.

Used to having two days to discover things I wanted, this extra day that I got for the first time since I started going to Fragranze was very calm for me. I indeed tried most of the things on Friday and Saturday. In fact I dedicated Sunday to spending more time with people, since it’s them who create the entire atmosphere.After a few years people become more important than perfume. Also for the first time the show wasn’t open to public on final day which was clearly visible in the corridors that were not as crowded as usual. Weird choice to not allow potential costumers to enter.

I didn’t smell so much on that day, only a couple of perfume I missed earlier. For example Jasmagonda, a new proposal from Pierre Guillaume – a Collection Rework composition for Drama Nuui. It was a beautifully clear magnolia & jasmine scent with transparent and delicate facets. I also tested two scents from Parco 1923. Concept of this brand is to use ingredients obtained from plants that only grow in the region of Abruzzo. Fragrances were ok but didn’t stay in my memory. Another new try for me was 401 E. Amatrice. Their only perfume is bearing the same name as the brand and apparently contains 140 ingredients! I’m immune to such talk, how would I smell all that?

After having longer and insightful talks with many people around the fair, especially with Nick from Gallivant came the time to do some commemorative photos with them as well. Luckily nobody opposed. I also stopped by the booth of Map of the Heart, mostly because the other day we were walking down the street in Florence, next to each other and we didn’t recognize each other… They were launching White Heart dedicated to love – with aldehydes, white flowers, lavender and bit of spice. It smelled very unusual. And after recommendation from Alex I also smelled Antonio Alessandria Fara, a sparkling lemonade perfume but with a sweaty cumin undertone in the background. We also tried a range of Abel together. It’s an affordable line of all natural fragrances.

I had a great lunch with Alex Lee at a nearby cafe and a great chat with Stephanie Bakouche regarding my current position at work and how I can make a change. In chat with Cecile Zarokian I tried to find out about her recent work but her lips were sealed. That’s how Fragranze 16 was drawing towards its end. Even though it was open until 6 PM, many brands started packing around 4 PM. Everyone wanted to make it back home as soon as possible after these 3 tiring days.

Observation I (and not just me) made during this edition of Pitti Fragranze was that there was overally less brands exhibiting, fewer people visiting, many people looked tired. Some brands even stated that it’s probably their last time at the Florentine fair. Why? Because TFWA Exhibition (Tax Free World Association) in Cannes was happening only few weeks later. For most there was no reason to exhibit in both places and they opted for Cannes. There’s something else that disturbs me.

The fact is that none of the niche brands is big and rich enough to be able to actually have a stand in the main area at TFWA – this place is dominated by Dior, Guerlain, Chanel and tens of other brands you can see at the airport duty-free. So what niche does? Niche rents hotel suites or yahts to organize little showrooms where you can visit them by appointment. Surely a great way to scoop some audience, especially that masses of people visit Cannes for that exhibition.

I wonder if in next years Pitti Fragranze will slowly start to deteriorate… I sure hope not.

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