Tag Archives: Pierre Guillaume

Defining Undefined at Pitti Fragranze 2018 – part 3

My second day at Pitti Fragranze was full of interesting and unexpected events. I tried many perfume on that day, met some new people & listened to some interesting conversations and panel discussions that broadened my horizons and taught me new things about scent culture in different parts of the world. In the evening some spontaneous actions resulted in having the most amazing dinner in Florence ever. Surrounded by 4 perfumers, 2 brand owners, fellow blogger and few more people by the table we enjoyed food, drinks and conversations. It was a good day.

Normally at the end of my 2nd day at the fair I would’ve been cautious to not stay out too long. It’s because I always had to pack all my stuff beforehand so that I could leave my rented room early in the morning to arrive at the airport on time. But not this year. Return flights were not in my favor either and Aeroporto di Bologna was closed for a few days including the weekend when I was in Florence. In the end I decided to stay in Italy for a bit longer and fly back home on Tuesday.

Used to having two days to discover things I wanted, this extra day that I got for the first time since I started going to Fragranze was very calm for me. I indeed tried most of the things on Friday and Saturday. In fact I dedicated Sunday to spending more time with people, since it’s them who create the entire atmosphere.After a few years people become more important than perfume. Also for the first time the show wasn’t open to public on final day which was clearly visible in the corridors that were not as crowded as usual. Weird choice to not allow potential costumers to enter.

I didn’t smell so much on that day, only a couple of perfume I missed earlier. For example Jasmagonda, a new proposal from Pierre Guillaume – a Collection Rework composition for Drama Nuui. It was a beautifully clear magnolia & jasmine scent with transparent and delicate facets. I also tested two scents from Parco 1923. Concept of this brand is to use ingredients obtained from plants that only grow in the region of Abruzzo. Fragrances were ok but didn’t stay in my memory. Another new try for me was 401 E. Amatrice. Their only perfume is bearing the same name as the brand and apparently contains 140 ingredients! I’m immune to such talk, how would I smell all that?

After having longer and insightful talks with many people around the fair, especially with Nick from Gallivant came the time to do some commemorative photos with them as well. Luckily nobody opposed. I also stopped by the booth of Map of the Heart, mostly because the other day we were walking down the street in Florence, next to each other and we didn’t recognize each other… They were launching White Heart dedicated to love – with aldehydes, white flowers, lavender and bit of spice. It smelled very unusual. And after recommendation from Alex I also smelled Antonio Alessandria Fara, a sparkling lemonade perfume but with a sweaty cumin undertone in the background. We also tried a range of Abel together. It’s an affordable line of all natural fragrances.

I had a great lunch with Alex Lee at a nearby cafe and a great chat with Stephanie Bakouche regarding my current position at work and how I can make a change. In chat with Cecile Zarokian I tried to find out about her recent work but her lips were sealed. That’s how Fragranze 16 was drawing towards its end. Even though it was open until 6 PM, many brands started packing around 4 PM. Everyone wanted to make it back home as soon as possible after these 3 tiring days.

Observation I (and not just me) made during this edition of Pitti Fragranze was that there was overally less brands exhibiting, fewer people visiting, many people looked tired. Some brands even stated that it’s probably their last time at the Florentine fair. Why? Because TFWA Exhibition (Tax Free World Association) in Cannes was happening only few weeks later. For most there was no reason to exhibit in both places and they opted for Cannes. There’s something else that disturbs me.

The fact is that none of the niche brands is big and rich enough to be able to actually have a stand in the main area at TFWA – this place is dominated by Dior, Guerlain, Chanel and tens of other brands you can see at the airport duty-free. So what niche does? Niche rents hotel suites or yahts to organize little showrooms where you can visit them by appointment. Surely a great way to scoop some audience, especially that masses of people visit Cannes for that exhibition.

I wonder if in next years Pitti Fragranze will slowly start to deteriorate… I sure hope not.

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Dancing Lights, Parfumerie Generale Komorebi

As I await my break from work, summer in the city can easily become a nuisance when termometers show no mercy and indicate it’s above 30°C outside day after day. My way to survive the heat is to go swimming each evening. It’s sports, relax and a cooldown at once. Or I’d go for a bike ride in the forest, where birds sing, bugs buzz and light is filtering down through the tree leaves. In Japanese they have a special word to describe this kind of light. Komorebi (木漏れ日) Three kanji characters in it mean 木 – tree, 漏 – escape and 日 – light. This light connects sky and earth through the tree.

First impression of Komorebi is that the perfume is incredibly light. It opens with this transparent, almost scentless veil that eventually starts to smell after the alcohol carrier has evaporated from the skin. At its very beginning the perfume smells of mint leaves in a totally different way than other minty perfumes known to me do. It’s light as a feather, quite watery and pale – as if you weren’t smelling it directly but in some sort of an infusion instead. And it smells very pure. Even though it’s so gentle it still creates an aromatic dimension that feels incredibly refreshing and invigorating.

This scent of freshly brewed mint leaves carries on for a little while until the encounter with tree resins happens. The latter one lends some of its richness to Komorebi, making the perfume feel not so airy anymore. Verdancy of the sap blends together with a watery mint sensation causing the perfume to develop more vibrant green color. Aromatic freshness of combined mint and tree sap is as brisk as a splash of cool water on a hot day, but the perfume itself emanates with inner warmth. Later on this warmth will be highlighted more but at the same time it won’t reduce the fresh feeling.


I often associate perfumes with colors or images they would draw in my imagination. In case of Parfumerie Generale Komorebi it’s definitely a watercolor palette and for now the picture would be a play of light & shade on the tree leaves that move as the wind blows. After a beautiful aquatic mint opening followed by a green juices facet the perfume ventures into floral registers. A hint of mimosa with its sweet aroma of flower pollen coming from those tiny yellow pom-poms is like a thoughtfully added touch of color. It’s a little, seemingly not important detail that makes a difference.

Then comes a moment for a fruity touch – blackcurrant adds a bit of juicy tartness that leaves a delectable taste at the tip of your tongue. It’s very tasty but fades away quickly. Afterwards a note of oak wood appears & its arrival is marked with a substantial woody touch that joins the composition. It adds character and tenacity to Komorebi without disturbing the peace of its lightweight balanced notes. Hazel (wood) introduces some density while also adding some crunchiness more associated with hazelnut. Creamy & vanillic smell of tonka bean reminds me of a good sun tan lotion scent.

Lazy day by the swimming pool surrounded by trees that provide some shade would be the perfect environment for this type of perfume. Komorebi by Parfumerie Generale is undeniably summery and its lighter, more watery character make it a great fragrance for the hot days when you don’t want to skip wearing a perfume but also have to mind people in your closest environment. It has decent longevity and low sillage. This Pierre Guillaume scent is available in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles. Komorebi is a part of Rework Series and is a riff of Yuzu Ab Irato from Numerical Series.

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