Tag Archives: Pissara Umavijani

Song of Rainbow Fairies, Dusita Splendiris

There are books that are written so well that you just can’t stop reading until you learn what happens to the main character at the end of the tome. There are movies that are so relatable that they make us feel as we’re part of the story. There’s music that touches the right chords of our hearts and moves us to tears. Finally there are perfume that are so masterfully composed that their smell takes us to another world, a world only we know. Splendiris from Parfums Dusita¬†is like a magic wand that opens the door to a realm where fairies, wizards, pixies and many other fantastic beings dwell. Nothing is impossible there. Shall we step into this world together to discover its wonders?

The world of Splendiris welcomes you with a sheer citrus juiciness that is so ethereal that it feels more as if someone scented their silk scarf with bergamot, blood orange and mandarine and walked on the same path few moments before you. The trail still lingers in the air but you can’t tell in which directions the owner of the scent went. None of these citrus notes is particularly accentuated, although I find the sweet scent of mandarine to peak slightly above the others. Couple of minutes after this journey began the perfume blooms and soon will reveal a whole palette of colours.

Violet leaf creates an ozonic, watery facet that is reminiscent of the smell of the air after the rain. Crispy green fragrance of the leaves adds a touch of freshness and a dewy feel to Splendiris. While violet leaf is more like geranium or even mint there’s also a hint of fig leaf which creates more dry, verdant and sappy impression. Even though there’s a rainy aura associated with this part of the scent, it’s more like a happy summer rain that might bring rainbow as soon as the sun comes out. This perfume sure has a lot of charm and any part of it feels just magical & tickles one’s imagination.

Pissara used some carrot seeds while working on Splendiris – they add a vegetal facet to the perfume and makes for a perfect introduction to what’s coming next. Everything changes when violet joins the composition. From this moment the latest Dusita fragrance turns sensual and full of powdery nuances. Violet introduces a spectrum of delicate and refined floral tones but at the same time there’s some candy sweetness to it in the background. There’s a part of flowers that are fresh while some of the petals have been candied or even turned into violet flavour powder candy.

splendiris

It’s a faint kind of sweetness but it’s enough to make you want to lick Splendiris off your skin. Just don’t do that or you’ll miss something even greater. Iris is the queen in this world – she enters with a fanfare of buttery and powdery deliciousness that just makes you want to melt and become one with it. In Splendiris it’s just so gorgeous that it makes me weak in the knees any time I wear it. There’s something very unusual about this orris. Even though irises are considered odorless this perfume makes me believe that I was also smelling its silky petals in addition to the precious rhisome.

After some time this magnificent iris of Splendiris blooms on the skin even more, now showing its true colours. Its flower is not only blue or purple as the most commonly known. The perfume also bears hues of yellow, white, creamy, burgundy and even more brown-ish shade. It’s like wearing a magic spell on your skin and when vanilla appears it allows orris to become more creamy & slightly gourmand. At this stage of development there was also a moment when I detected a grain note of wheat, very close to one found in Erawan. For a change it’s more dry and grassy in character.

Splendiris continues to surprise me until the very end. The drydown, which is still overflowing with iris, now starts to solidify and develops woody aromas that would serve as a base for the main star. Here vetiver – green, herbaceous and slightly coumaric as hay combines with cedarwood which is much more substantive and surrounds the wearer with a woody scent that is unpolished but still in style. Ambergris with its salty-flavored depth and sensuality ensures long-lasting of the fragrance on skin, letting you enjoy this beauty until your day is over. And what a grand day it must’ve been.

Everything feels so right and in place when it comes to Splendiris by Parfums Dusita¬†that I think Pissara Umavijani must’ve connected with each raw material, iris in particular, on a spiritual level to pour so much beauty into this fragrance. Or maybe she was guided by some unworldly powers? But that not the most important. What really matters is that Splendiris is a truly splendid perfume that lives up to the name it was given. To me this is a flawless fragrance and I know I’m going to enjoy my bottle, which looks like a precious gem with this light purple colour of the juice. It’s a kind of perfume Alice from “Alice in Wonderland” or Wendy from a tale about Peter Pan would wear.

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Hungry for Inspiration – Day 3 of Esxence 2019

By the time my third day in Milan came to be I grew a certain level of tiredness, so I decided that I don’t need to push myself anymore and just try to enjoy my final day at Esxence, whatever it might bring. As usual weekend was open to the public so you could expect a bigger crowd of people anyway, which quite successfully reduces one’s chances of being a productive explorer.

I started the day by attending a lecture by Michael Edwards titled “From niche to niche: the evolution of French perfumery” in which he talked about the greatest perfumers of different times, from Guy Robert to Dominique Ropion and Calice Becker and how niche were their ideas for the fragrances that were released in their respective times and how over the last century they’ve been using the ingredients nobody dared to use until they did. He also used this opportunity to share with the audience the news about 2 new books he’s been working on but I already knew about this.

Immediately after this lecture ended I was supposed to meet with Pissara Umavijani, creator & perfumer of Parfums Dusita but when I arrived at her stand she was missing. Just a moment earlier she started a livestream outside and continued as she came back. We started talking about the idea behind the name that I chose for her new fragrance (Reve d’Aurore, one of the winners in naming competition), in the context of Splendiris we also talked about working with iris and we had a deeper discussion about what it really takes to create a successful scent and how many people were involved. All this was recorded so it felt a bit as if Pissara was interviewing me, not vice versa.

On that day I ended up talking with a lot of people, mostly friends with whom I wanted to chat even if they were not showing any new releases at that particular time. So I talked with Olivier Durbano, with Celine Verleure, Nicolas Chabot, a bit more with Megan Paki & Jean Philippe Clermont.

There was also a moment when I could sit down together with Rania Jouaneh at a more quiet moment and talk about her newest creation + smell it of course. She decided to work on a musk. Even thought it’s a very popular note, with Musc Moschus she managed to create something between white musk and filthy musk. The scent is animalic but in an elegant way and with a lovely creaminess in the drydown. For unknown reasons I didn’t take a photo of the bottle…

Encouraged by Ana who tried the fragrance before I decided to stop at FO’AH stand. This new brand which launched in 2018 is owned by Emilie Dewell who wanted to combine her two worlds: French and Arabic into a perfume line. Emilie thought palm tree would be the perfect symbol so the bottle the brand uses resembles a palm tree trunk structure. In addition to that FO’AH teamed with Givaudan in creating a special and unique palm tree note incorporated into each of 5 scents the brand is offering. I enjoyed two of them, Memoires d’une Palmeraie 02 and 08.

In the afternoon I had a chance to meet with Neela Vermeire, a person who I believe needs no introduction to anyone who loves a niche perfume of top sort. We sat for about 30 minutes and talked about the show and what is generally happening in this segment of perfumery. Unfortunately Neela had to back out from exhibiting with NVC this year but she still came to Milan and did some meetings with business partners outside of Esxence. I hope it was a fruitful trip to her.

One of interesting new discoveries of Saturday was this brand named Essential Parfums. The concept is to use a simple bottle, an eco-friendly packaging made of couple layers of carton glued together and to feature at least one sustainable ingredient in each fragrance. They’re working with most renowned and recognized perfumers while the brand itself is super-affordable, charging 69 euro for a 100 ml bottle (or 18 euro for 10 ml travel spray). After smelling the entire range I was surprised in a very positive way and it’s a proof that niche can be great without costing a fortune.

My very last stop at Esxence was Uermi. The brand completely changed the look of the bottles to the round bottom ones from previously used rectangular shape. They also reworked a couple of fragrances to make them more polished. The brand new thing at the stand was NU Leather – a fragrance developed by Luca Maffei. It was a soft and embracing take on leather.

And so Saturday at Esxence came to an end and it was time for me to say goodbye to everyone and to say goodbye to the exhibition for another year (hopefully). In the evening there was a “Gala Party” organized by Esxence founders but since it was a themed party (dresscode: formal attire) & I got my invitation just before Easter when I was already packed I decided that I’m not going. Luckily I wasn’t alone as Elena was in a similar situation. As a party replacement we decided to meet in front of the Duomo and have a nice dinner together. We went to La Rinascente, made a tour around a ground floor dedicated to fragrance – mostly exclusive designer lines (as if we didn’t have enough perfume during last 3 days). We got a table at Obika at the rooftop of La Rinascente, at the patio outside, so we enjoyed our pizza, pasta and drinks as we were looking at the top of Duomo by our side. I bet it was much better than the party. That was the end of my little adventure. We both took different metro to go back to our places, I had to pack to be ready to leave at 6 AM on Sunday.

A couple of final thoughts. I didn’t count but there must have been a lot of new fragrances that were launched at Esxence and I only managed to try a part of them but I must tell you that the air around The Mall smelled of stagnation. There were a lot of nice scents but “nice” is a clue word here. They were “nice” – nothing more than that. Lots and lots of repetitiveness, a lack of originality and no new ideas. There were a lot of fresh creations, quite many inspired by seaside or Mediterranean cost. Green florals and soliflores were also quite common. It starts to become more obvious that niche is becoming more commercial and mainstreamed, fragrances are much more safe and appealing to a greater audience. Even brands that we know they took some risks in the past and prevailed are not as open to experimentation anymore. Each year I came to Esxence there was at least one fragrance that would mesmerize me, that would make me go wow! and fall in love with it immediately. This year I didn’t experience that feeling & because of that I feel kind of disappointed.

Another phenomenon that has shaken the ground of Esxence was that 2019, like no other year before, saw a huge number of vloggers, Youtubers and so-called influencers coming to the show. Every now and then you’d see one of them filming another video or an interview with a brand. They were all over the place and you could easily recognize them as they were walking down the aisles with handfuls of bags with full bottles. I’m not here to judge anyone because I don’t know these vlogging people. If brands want to be promoted via Youtube or Instagram it’s their choice but I have a feeling that this is not the rightest way and that to some extend it can even tarnish their good reputation and luxurious character in the eyes of the other people. But when you hear loud voices of these people trying to convince the brand to give them something of big value as a present or some waiting until Sunday to score a free tester bottle from the stand… this just leaves me speechless and thinking that they don’t come to Esxence to meet people, to connect and exchange opinions but rather to get a big “haul” as they say, to brag about how much they got and how much it’s worth.

And with this non-optimistic accent I’d like to end this 3-part series of my Esxence 2019 report. It was a great experience to meet with friends and with new people. But to discover new & exciting perfume – not so much this time… May these last lines be your food for thought. Niche, where are you going?

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