Tag Archives: Puredistance

Dumna elegancja, Puredistance Warszawa

Poland is probably a country with most intense history of all European nations. It’s been through 3 partitions that completely wiped it out of any map for 123 years. It suffered from World War 2. I’m Polish and history of my country is a part of who I am, even if I’m way too young to remember any of these events. Jan Vos came to the capital city of Poland years ago and was fascinated by both city and people – especially women. They were proud and elegant. Tough on the outside yet still very delicate and feminine on the inside. In Polish women Jan Vos saw a muse for a new fragrance.

To my nose Puredistance Warszawa opens quite transparently. There’s an ozonic smell of violet leaf that gradually gains on more fresh crispiness and verdancy. The smell is dewy, watery and it’s becoming more powdery after 10 minutes for that’s when I start to smell violet flower as well. First impression of this perfume is very misleading as it fully transforms in the next few minutes. There’s a little bit of grapefruit that provides some bitterness that leads to more vegetal and resinous green vibe of galbanum. From this point Warszawa becomes much more rich and complex being. It feels like a va va voom of the past.

Note of jasmine is huge in this perfume however it doesn’t overwhelm the nose with its presence. Thing worth mentioning is that it doesn’t smell indolic even in tiniest bit. It’s a lush bouquet of white flowers that could stand in a central place of a grand hall of a hotel or that could belong to a bride. There’s something glamorous about its fragrance. It’s deep and intoxicating in a positive way. After some time broom accord appears in Puredistance Warszawa. It’s an interesting flower as any time I experience it in a perfume, it gives it that specific vibe that is hard to describe, but I’ll try.

When broom arrives at the main scene the whole perfume seems to have its radiance lowered. As if someone decided that it’s too bright and it’s time to dim the lights. I quite like this as a certain mood is brought to the fragrance thanks to that. Like imaginary ball room where everyone hides their face behind a mask, where the lights are dimmed and voices are lowered. It adds some duskiness, some mystery and curiosity. Afterwards comes a moment when Warszawa gains more creamy & powdery facet thanks to iris. It smooth and elegant, like a silk glove on a woman’s delicate hand.

Iris lasts for quite long however its splendor doesn’t stay in the center of attention for long. Vetiver wins with its strength, starting to dissipate woody-smelling molecules with a rooty tone underneath. It partially blends with iris, the latter one makes vetiver less edgy and crude. Once Puredistance Warszawa reaches its drydown, it reveals a prominent patchouli note. It’s a combination of earthy, woody and musty elements. To me personally it gives the impression as if I was smelling oakmoss. There’s also a hint of styrax that provides a gentle sweetness that is tad resinous in style.

Puredistance Warszawa is a charming perfume crafted in an old school way. It feels restrained, somehow aristocratic. In my imagination an ideal ambassador of this perfume would be a +60 woman, mature but who aged with pride and grace, who refuses to throw away her femininity. She wears shoes with a little heel, a fur coat and a red lipstick. For this reason I didn’t feel as a suitable person to wear Warszawa, I’m too young to rock such retro glam beauty. It’s like a perfume homage to the generation of our grandmothers or grand-grandmothers. One spray of it can rewind time. Varsovian women of 60’s or 70’s could smell like this.

Puredistance launched Warszawa in collaboration not only with perfumer Antoine Lie but also with Missala family in Warsaw. For that reason Perfumeria Quality Missala that is a family business was given a full exclusivity for this perfume by Jan Ewoud Vos. Since late 2016 you could purchase it at one of their boutiques in Warsaw. Now, in November 2017 the perfume will be launched worldwide. Puredistance Warszawa is concentrated a 25% and it comes in three sizes: 17,5 ml, 60 ml and 100 ml. It’s adorned with royal green colored details. Longevity and sillage are above average.

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Blooming inspirations of Pitti Fragranze 2017 – part 1

My summer holiday in Italy this year was a fantastic experience. For a really long time I had no idea where to spend my vacations so I’m happy that thanks to some research and tips found by my mom I planned such a great trip. I finally saw more of Milan, tasted a little bit of dolce vita during my stay at Lake Como & enjoyed my short stays in Genoa and Pisa. But most anticipated part of my Italian voyage was going to Florence for another edition of Pitti Fragranze. It was a true cherry on top.

I arrived early in the afternoon on Thursday, a little bit more than half a day before the show was starting. On the occasion of lovely weather I went for a walk to revisit popular Florentine places, such as Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, Ponte Vecchio or Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. This time I also went to a famous Santa Maria Novella apothecary & shop. It’s a beautiful place. I bought a bottle of SMN Citta di Kyoto, a gentle cologne combining iris with lotus flower.

As I was getting hungry I tried to ask my friends if any of them was already in Florence and wanted to eat something together. But it turned out that they either had different plans, didn’t arrive yet or were simply not interested in joining me. Just when I was ready to give up and just sit by myself and eat, I was passing next to a restaurant when I was spotted by Andy Tauer. What a coincidence! I joined him at the table for Aperol Spritz and a dish of pasta. We had a nice chat. We also met Sarah McCartney and Olivier Valverde. Florence was clearly being taken over by perfume people.

Next day the Pitti Fragranze fair was starting at 10 AM. I went there a little bit earlier but thanks to using Pitti App on my phone I didn’t have to wait for a paper press pass & was able to enter as one of the first. First round in Stazione Leopolda is usually greeting with all friends. First hour passed quickly and at 11 AM I attended a Mane conference of the RAW project. This time they focused on spices in perfumery, especially on pepper & sustainability of their resources. But before that I had a chance to chat to Olivier Durbano, who presented Labradorite, his perfume #13. It’s a smoked tuberose with some not overdone animalics. I also met Nicolas Chabot, a guy behind Le Galion and Aether. At his stand I smelled new Aether Celluloid, a fantastic iris with cashmeran.

When the clock was showing it’s almost 1 PM I went out for a planned meeting with Puredistance. The brand wasn’t attending Pitti this year but Mary Gooding and Nele Tammiste were in Florence to meet with some people. We went out for a lunch together. We decided to snack at a nearby cafe bar and it was the best decision. Each of us had a great piece of foccachia with tomato sauce and melted cheese, plus we had 3 different sweet treats. Puredistance is preparing for a global launch of Warszawa right now. I enjoyed meeting with them and seeing new graphics they made.

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Further explorations brough me to Andy Tauer. We laughed again because of our accidental meeting on previous evening. He has shown his new Tauerville Patch Flash to me which is pretty unusual and not very patchouli take on this note. There was also AT Attar in Tauer Perfumes collection. Andy outdid himself with the packaging. A 5ml attar is packed in a miniature pentagonal flacon made of blue glass. So cute! I also had a chance to smell his soaps. Loved mandarin one.

Gabriella Chieffo stand was eye-catching for another year in a row. Using metal fence, polyurethane foam and paint her team created an installation that was bringing clouds to one’s mind. A well thought background to present Quasicielo (‘almost heaven’) a lovely composition of tart citrus top notes with spicy, aromatic heart and warm, resinous base. At the end of the fair I concluded it was one of my favorite fragrances this Pitti. It’s not a perfect fragrance but it doesn’t have to be. It’s first perfume made entirely by Gabriella. Previously she had lots of help from Luca Maffei.

Sarah McCartney stand was nearby so I was offered a full presentation of Our Modern Lives, a new project next to 4160 Tuesdays. There are 7 natural fragrances inspired by yoga and different moods of the day, plus 2 synthetics that are free from allergens. You can mix & match, layer them. The idea is to select one natural and one synthetic and blend them. Body sprays with 3% fragrance (see photo) were quite nice already, but 10% EdP are also available. What is very attractive about OML are the labels, featuring gorgeous drawings of plants and herbs that match ingredients.

At a combined booth of Eau d’Italie and Altaia I was able to smell 2 novelties – one for each of these two brands owned by Marina Sersale and Sebastian Alvarez Murena. For Eau d’Italie they presented Rosa Greta. Inspired by a person of Greta Garbo and her love affair, the perfume is a delicate, feminine and innocent floral bouquet with dominant rose note. Altaia presented Tuberose in Blue, a gentle white floral, tuberose for non tuberose lovers as I called it after blotter test.

Among new faces that arrived at 2017 edition of Pitti Fragranze I noticed a familiar face from before. Barbara Herman was attending the fair. It was actually my first contact with her brand – Eris Parfums. I liked the idea of her initial fragrance trio, trying to create modern versions of big vintage perfumes. I especially liked Night Flower, which was inspired by Guerlain Shalimar. On the other hand the new release, called Mx. defies gender segregation. On my skin it smelled of super creamy sandalwood with a coconut tinge. It seemed popular, many people were buzzing about it.

That’s it for a round-up of 1st day at Pitti Fragranze. When you attend it for a few years there comes a moment when you realize that year by year you smell less perfume and you spend more time talking to people. We gradually become closer friends so it wouldn’t feel right to cut out the conversation after a few minutes. Yet I think I did my best and tried a decent number of new releases, especially on 2nd day of the show. More of Pitti report coming soon! Stay tuned!

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