Tag Archives: Ralph Schwieger

To friendship! Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant

Thanks to Atelier Cologne a brand new idea of making perfumes appeared in the PerfumeLand. Since 2010, when this perfume house came up with a cologne absolue concept, basing on a traditional eau de cologne but adding it more depth with precious raw materials and longevity by raising concentration to 15% or more – they added a modern twist to a classic theme. They gained a group of fans with their hard work for making great scents. Now they’re presenting a new addition to their line – Cedrat Enivrant – an homage to sunny citrus, cedrat (citron, etrog.)

The composition of Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant starts with a hefty dose of lime. It’s so juicy and mouth-watering that it’s hard not to drool over it. The note also has a nice portion of zest that adds some refreshing acidity to the blend. Moreover lime accord smells so natural and realistic in this perfume that probably only squeezing an actual lime in your hand could give a similar olfactory impression. Lime is a single player for 20 minutes, then the perfume begins to transmute.

Next comes the mint accord starting an aromatic phase in the new Atelier Cologne creation. Mint is not especially fresh here, it provides more of an herbal vibe combined with the green smell of crushed leaves and a sap. At this point the lime accord becomes more full-bodied and cedrat makes an entrance. At the beginning it’s very quiet and combined with mint it smells clear. Once it starts to develop you can notice no more no less than four totally different aspects of this citrus.

First you can notice the aromatic aspect of the rind, flavoured with some sour tasting sprinkles. This lasts for 15 minutes. Secondly there’s a smell that is typical to the white albedo part of the citrus fruit. It has a mild scent making me think of vitamin C hot drinks and there’s also a pale powdery quality keeping around this stage. 10 minutes and it’s over. Then mint seems to become a little bit stronger than it was. Now it’s like a mojito, sparkling like bubbles in the fizzy water.

As the 3rd element of citron you get the actual fruit pulp. It smells like some kind of a tropical smoothie and is very similar to Orange Sanguine. This feeling subsides after 15 minutes. The last part of cedrat in Cedrat Enivrant is the juice. It has a lovely smell that balances between sweet and sour elements. This part of the fragrance has an additional portion of juiciness! There’s a shot of bergamot all over it, introducing the lovely vibe that is aromatic and citric at the same time.

When the first hour is gone Cedrat Enivrant starts to develop a new quality. There are fresh spicy notes that come to the front now. Among them – basil. It effuses a nice portion of green freshness entwined with the spicy aspect of the plant leaves. Herbacious feeling is also a part of the note. It makes me want to enjoy the basilic accord when it’s done like in this fragrance. Eau d’Italie Jardin du Poete has a similar basil accord. At 1,5 hours woody notes appear in the composition of this cologne absolue.

The molecules building a vetiver accord in Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant are handled in a careful way in my opinion. The accord is done in my favourite way because for most of the time the note is kept in a woody style. The aroma it gives is substantial and its dry style suggests the impression similar to the one given by gin. It doesn’t smell of alcohol but it brings that cool and chilly, refreshing vibe of a drink. Juniper berries accord pairs with gin in a fantastic way, adding it an aromatic-metalic edge. This combination of cedrat, gin-like vetiver and juniper lasts for a good couple of hours.

After four more hours the metal cold vibe is put aside and the perfume enters the drydown. Vetiver is a little bit more earthy with a rooty feel to it. The density is added with the elemi resin – it makes Cedrat Enivrant more balmy and it causes that this perfume shouldn’t and cannot be considered a “one more cologne.” No! This Atelier Cologne is quite far from the traditional cologne style. Sure it has citrus but it’s rendered in a non-typical way. As the final, tonka bean adds warmth and spiciness to the fragrant pyramid of this perfume. The lasting power is beyond amazing!

Cedrat Enivrant was inspired by a French 75 cocktail, made with gin, champagne, lemon juice and sugar. The beverage got its name from the French 75mm field gun, as the combination was said to have such powerful kick. The perfume certainly has a kick of positive energy. It is also a toast to friendship and cherished moments of spending time with the friends. Let’s toast those we call our friends!

As the sun set on the beach, they were all together again. Full of emotions, they could not stop talking. Had it really been so long? They shared many memories and another round of French 75s with laughter and tears in their eyes. No one wanted the night to end. As the sun rose, it was a sparkling moment of absolue friendship.

It was Ralph Schwieger who blended Cedrat Enivrant for Atelier Cologne. This cologne absolue is concentrated at 15% (concentration of eau de parfum) – it has a really great sillage, leaving a scented trace behind the wearer. The longevity is +10 hours. I know that now it’s not a perfect time to wear scents like this but I suppose this fragrance would work even better when it gets warm.

The composition was introduced for the first time on December 23rd 2013 and is now available in a couple of selected stores – it will be widely available since March, so I’m going to treat it as a perfume released in 2014. Cedrat Enivrant (“Intoxicating Cedrat”) comes in 30ml, 100ml and 200ml bottles with a lime green label. The big bottles have a cap wrapped with leather. To me this is a lovely, sophisticated and sparkling perfume. Will be perfect for summer.

[note] Many thanks to Atelier Cologne for providing the scent. Pictures: my own. All rights reserved.

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Gray eyes, Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena

Aedes de Venustas, a luxurious niche perfume boutique located in West Village of New York City introduced its newest perfume creation which had its premiere on 15th June 2013. Described at Aedes website as “mysterious, mystical, sensuous” Iris Nazarena with the notes of iris and incense “matches the worlds most precious aromatic material with the most ancient. This is “iris, reborn” – they say. This perfume is a second take on the perfume art by Aedes de Venustas. First they created a scent called Aedes de Venustas last year. Earlier, in 2008 L’Artisan Parfumeur made a perfume for them. Thus Iris Nazarena is overally a 3rd fragrance but 2nd from Aedes themselves.

The very first accord of Iris Nazarena delivers a smell of astonishingly beautiful incense to my nose. When I smell it I think of incense sticks and ash. After an incense stick has completely burned there’s always some ash left on the tray. And this ash is almost weightless. You can spread it between your fingers making your hands black, but the weight is almost nonexistent. Incense note in this Aedes de Venustas creation is almost like this ash, it has no weight. It floats in the air, creating mesmerizing whirls of smoke, before they disappear, only leaving a trace of smell in the air.

Five minutes later a star of this perfume, iris, appears on my skin. Describing it is not an easy thing to do since Iris Nazarena smells like no other known iris perfume I tried so far. This one is different… To me there’s nothing floral about it. I would rather say that it has much more to do with a root. A smelly root, quite dry, without any water or damp soil sticking to it. With the magnificent incense staying very close to the iris note. At some point I thought I noticed a carrot undertone but it disappeared in a blink of an eye, so it could as well be just my imagination.

30 minutes from the moment of applying I begin to notice woody notes inside Iris Nazarena. I cannot say that I smell a particular species of wood here because I don’t. As another wafts of the fragrance reach my nose I get different impressions of this accord. It was very smooth one minute and the other minute it seemed to be more rough. The other day when I wore Iris Nazarena the woody notes reminded me of lacquered wooden benches with hints of Mysore sandalwood. Funny, huh?

Leather is the note that appears very shortly after the woodsy tones come forth. The leather I get is elegant and soft. It lacks the harsh aspects of pigments and the pungent kick that often characterises this note in modern perfumery. I would compare the leather I smell in Iris Nazarena to a new leather bag or maybe a jacket. It’s shiny and refined, like an expensive piece of clothing. The note is additionally mellowed by ambrette and it’s slightly creamy aroma.

At the end of 1st hour of wearing it, Iris Nazarena slowly evolves into something I would call “an ode to spices.” The transparent smokiness enveloping the rooty iris is still in the center position of this fragrance but some additional spicy qualities appear now, at hour 1 mark. I absolutely adore the star anise note in this perfume. It’s light but substantial, kind of making me think of a gingerbread (but it doesn’t really smell like a cookie!) I bet it’s the addition of cloves, sweet & spicy, that gave me this association. Even later, at 1,5 hour I could smell the pimento berries with their silvery-metalic finish which combined with oud note smells quite appealing, not to say charming.

In late drydown Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena is a soft, kind of plushy, suede-like perfume made mainly of iris and smoke. Occasionally one might notice some roses mingling in the background along with shimmers of amber. Soft, quite cosy, but not really dreamy.

Interesting fact about Iris Bismarckiana, a Nazarethan Iris growing only in the location of the mountains to the west of Nazareth (the city) is that the root of this flower is completely odorless. Thus Iris Nazarena couldn’t have been inspired by its smell. It’s more likely that the inspiration for this perfume was a flower, it’s creamy, brown and gray petals, their silky softness. It explains the gorgeous gray color of the glass used to make a flacon of this Aedes de Venustas fragrance and a grey suede-like box.

Iris Nazarena, created for Aedes de Venustas by perfumer Ralph Schwieger is a gorgeous, mysterious and “shy” fragrance. The rough elements used to create it resulted in charming, but at the same time colder and more reserved fragrance. To enjoy this perfume you need to uderstand it, you need to find it’s inner beauty. The entire composition leaves impression like it was more of a masculine than feminine iris. My skin allows me to enjoy Iris Nazarena for around 10-12 hours and I think that it would last even longer when it’s colder. The sillage is great for first 2-3 hours and then it starts to get smaller. I only have a sample of this stunning fragrance, I wish I had more.

Iris Nazarena is an eau de parfum concentrated fragrance available in 100ml bottles with a gold baroque zamak cap. Grey velvet box and smoky glass bottle represent a Sfumato mode in art.

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