Epicureanism was a philosophy system coming from ancient Greece – that’s what I remember from history lessons years ago. Initiated by Epicurus around 307 BC, this doctrine treated “pleasures” as the greatest good but at the same time the recipe to achieve it was to live modestly and to gain knowledge. Rania Naim, owner of the brand wanted to work around a theme of “la joie de vivre” and such ancient philosophy felt like it’s complementing the attitude of living in happiness.
Jacques Fath Rosso Epicureo in its opening reminds me of a tart cake one would serve in spring/summer season. There is a splash of citric bergamot that also carries a bit of aromatic properties thanks to its zesty rind. Its juiciness is amplified by bitter orange. The latter one smells so natural and realistic that literally I’d like to reach out with my hand and grab a juicy orange wedge. Sichuan pepper is a surprising ingredient here as it adds a twist. A twist that is zingy and spicy in a kind of way that truly complements the juicy top notes. A little bit of davana add some dryness, reminiscent of hay note to my nose. Additionally there’s also plum for a feeling of rounded fruitiness. Add some black currant for a perfect combination that will electrify your sense of smell.
Start of this new offering in Fath’s Essentials collection is so pretty and complex that I just didn’t want to stop sniffing it when I gave it a try for the 1st time. Going deeper into structure of Rosso Epicureo you’ll find the abundance of flowers forming this unusually pretty and colorful bouquet. First you’re offered a handful of tuberose. It’s full of grace but at the same time it has its own temperament. It’s a note with a lot of presence. But for me, a person who doesn’t enjoy tuberose much, it was mesmerizing. In the background there is a summery Damascus rose, fresh and rich in essential oils. Smelling it puts a smile on my face. This fragrance radiates with endorphins.
Continuing the exploration of this big floral bouquet you’ll find a soft cushion of orange blossom under a layer of tuberose and rose petals. Fleur d’oranger here is citrusy with a traditional white floral vibe and it also has this vintage-y touch of something indolic to it. Thankfully flowers in Rosso Epicureo don’t become beasty. I have to admit that they make a statement with their richness and intensity but in my opinion it’s the best thing about this perfume. As the scent dissipates, orange blossom gradually transforms into creme patissiere as ylang takes the lead. It’s creamy, I woul dare to say it’s slightly buttery. Thanks to it new Jacques Fath creation has a tropical twist to it.
As hours pass all these flower notes of tuberose, rose, orange blossom and ylang slowly lose their power. From a loud and talkative group the perfume moves towards more shy and whispering one as these florals mingle in the background more and more quietly. After few hours of flourishing glamour Rosso Epicureo begins to reveal the rest of its notes. When that happens the perfume warms up noticeably. Soft amber enters the scene effusing its warm, inviting and embracing aura. It’s followed by vanilla that is vaguely sweet but more oriental. Patchouli creates depth, allowing different layers of the perfume to differentiate & create a 3D structure. Finally there’s muscone, a molecule that adds a musky vibe to the drydown – a finishing touch that ties up everything.
Rosso Epicureo was brought to life in atelier of Luca Maffei who work on this one as well as on 3 other Jacques Fath fragrances that were launched in 2017 as a new collection. This marriage of fruity citrus, bold florals and a toned down base make a great combination of different sensations. It’s a great fragrance for spring but actually I’d love to smell it on a 25*C day – I have a hunch it might be just as good then. Rosso Epicureo has more of a feminine nature but I’m going to pretend I didn’t say it & I’ll wear it proudly myself. Sillage of this one is moderate while it lasts on my skin all day. This gorgeous, ruby-colored fragrance comes in 50 and 100 ml bottles. Would you like to try it?
[note] photo – my own; all rights reserved