Fine arts are such a broad area for sourcing inspiration. Basically every millennium gave birth to numerous artists who either followed the existing style in painting and sculpture or who felt too limited by art canon that they decided to rewrite the rules by initiating their own artistic movement. It’s not a surprise that people from perfume world seek inspiration also in art galleries. Just in 2017 several brands decided to introduce perfume reflecting the emotions of certain painting, sculpture or tapestry. Evody family duet of mother & daughter, Cerine Vasseur and Regine Droin also linked art and perfumery by creating 3 compositions under a little of Collection Galerie.
Inspired by abstractionism, Sens Abstrait opens with a refreshing citrus notes that are slightly juicy and a little bit tart. It’s hard to describe what exact fruit are inside this accord since it’s quite blended and I find it difficult to extract lemon, bergamot or orange from the mixture. After a few minutes the perfume develops a light green facet. Its airiness and transparency have only a little bit of color. Aroma of this note reminds me of a dewy grass smell. Floral note develops after 30 minutes as a very delicate veil of meadow flowers that once again have not been specified in any way. The drydown has a woody aspect that is a bit dry and austere, giving more solid body to Sens Abstrait. Amber accord warms up the composition, making it feel more sensual on the skin. It’s really light as for eau de parfum but lasts a decent amount of time.
Taking surrealism for the inspiration, Tubereuse Manifeste in its starting phase reveals a rich sweetness of rum note. It brings the typical sugar cane scent with a delicious alcoholic flavor. Chamomile adds the unusual soft & herbal twist. Shortly tuberose is joining the composition. It introduces a highly saturated white floral sensation that feels quite indolic, almost touching the impression of something smoky, ashy. Vanilla makes it softer and therefore more appealing. Its creamy sweetness also serves as a bridge that connects tuberose with rose. The latter one appears some time later, showing up as a beautiful bright red flower. It feels very exclusive and elegant. Its intensity is also nicely rounded, giving the impression of something oily (as if you were smelling pure rose oil) and sophisticated at the same time. Davana makes the floral aspect more dusty while iris butter gives it an earthy finish with a buttered powdery facet. The drydown is a combination of smoky yet sensual labdanum, sticky benzoin that is balsamic and sweet at the same time, there is also a hint of leathery and animalic notes. Tubereuse Manifeste is way more intensive and has better longevity than Sens Abstrait. White floral lovers would be in heaven wearing this fragrance.
Couleur Fauve, a perfume born from the Fauvism painting style, is in my opinion the most lovely fragrance in this collection. It opens with a mentholated bergamot that 2-3 minutes later clash with a mix of pink and sichuan pepper for a tingly sensation that awakens the attention of the wearer. It very shortly becomes balsamic thanks to amber. Its luminous facet introduce this incredibly appealing play of light and shade. There are moments when ambery tones become brighter thanks to the sweetness of vanilla, only to become more shady because of earthy patchouly aspect. It’s also entwined with a light touch of castoreum. It’s animalic aspect is not offensive at all – it actually feels like a dense fur coat. On skin it has a very carnal, seductive aura that reminds me of Ramon Monegal Ambra di Luna. Benzoin is responsible for introducing a delightful balmy vibe that has some creamy sweetness so that it actually feels like toffee or caramel. Ambergris in Couleur Fauve gives this perfume a mineral ambery tone that feels salty in a mineral way. It’s a nod to the ocean, from where the material comes from in nature. The perfume is undeniably very sexy and seductive. It’s something you could wear on a romantic date in a more intimate scenery.
Collection Galerie is a nice addition to Evody range. These 3 fragrances are quite diverse so there’s a chance that everyone will find something to like. Of course depending on your tastes you will prefer one over the other, just like I found Sens Abstrait to be the most flat and with least character than the remaining two. A nose who worked on this trio is Cecile Zarokian. The fragrances – all 3 in eau de parfum concentration will be available in September in 100 ml bottles.