Tag Archives: Shyamala Maisondieu

Emerald Flicker, Les Liquides Imaginaires Succus

A beautiful sunny morning. You open up your eyes as you wake up and the moment you do that you realize you’re in the heart of the forest. It’s summer time so you’re feeling a bit lazy and not in a rush to actually get out of bed. The next moment your still sleepy eyes gaze up into the sky and you’re in awe. You see the light filtering through the crowns of the trees, shadows flickering among the leaves. So simple yet so breathtaking and beautiful. What if I told you that you don’t have to only imagine this picture but you can also smell it! With Les Liquides Imaginaires Succus it’s possible.

Succus greets the wearer with a delightful scent of rhubarb. Its tartness and crispness are absolutely mouth-watering & I immediately want to smile thanks to it. After around 5 minutes it develops a slightly sour but still very appealing flavor with a little bit of a green tint to it. Shortly after a wonderful mandarin appears, spilling its delectably sweet juiciness all over the place. The combination of these 2 works really well, creating the energetic bomb you just want to eat. After a while Succus changes its character a bit. When laurel joins the composition a new dry & dusted facet appears. I have to admit it smells pretty and harmonious next to mandarin and rhubarb.

Some time later the verdancy of Succus becomes more prominent but no matter the moment I smell it, I continue to perceive it as pastel green rather than bright green. Rosemary gives a fantastic touch of aromatic facets – it smells quite airy and spacious, outdoorsy. Afterwards juniper adds some of its own fragrance. That one is also green but also has a light metallic undertone you could associate with gin. Sage and cedar leaf give Succus a slightly more masculine character through their powdery/dusty impressions. At this point grapefruit also appears – its citrusy bitterness has more of a zesty effect compared to more juicy mandarin. It’s also not sweaty which is a good thing.

succus

As hours pass I notice how a mild spiciness builds up in Les Liquides Imaginaires Succus. It’s first revealed through a lemony fizziness of ginger and later also black pepper joins the ensemble. The warmth they effuse is rather solar and bright, they definitely haven’t been set up in a more heavy context. At some point a tropical floral note arrives at the main stage. Orchid that is featured in this fragrance is really something else. It’s slightly sweet and more creamy. It’s tropical but not exotic (if you know what I mean) and definitely adds a vivid color to the scent. Orchid is also slightly vanillic but way less dense than vanilla itself. Succus becomes more charming with time.

Drydown of Succus is mainly woody but also provides quite a lot of complexity. Firstly there’s vetiver but it smells neither dry nor grassy. It’s way more woody-solid than I’d expect. It has a pleasant smoothness that helps mandarin to come out more – it’s like vetiver becoming a background to the juicy fruit from before. Texas cedar gives more substantivity to the blend while frankincense creates a contrasting layer of balsamic ‘airiness’. It’s smoky in a great way but also light. There’s also a musky element via Moxalone and clear woodiniess via Georgywood (Givaudan molecules). I especially liked this vetiver-mandarin effect that gave Succus an uplifting vibe.

Les Liquides Imaginaires launched Succus as part of a perfume trilogy called Eau Arborante and this particular creation was meant to evoke the crowns of trees. I truly love this idea and how well it’s been executed by a perfumer – Shyamala Maisondieu. Succus really makes you feel as if you were sitting on top of a giant tree. Longevity and sillage of this creation are very good. Succus is available in 100 ml bottles and in eau de parfum concentration. If only smaller flacon was offered by the brand I wouldn’t hesitate to get it as I’m really into this perfume. It’s a great addition to summer wardrobe.

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Dog days, Teresa Helbig A Bulldog in the Atelier

As it turns out people in Perfumeland often happen to be animal lovers. Doesn’t really matter if you’re a cat person, a dog person or if you prefer a different, more exotic animal. Love for our pets is all the same & is equally important. Some even get inspired by their little friends. For instance Teresa Helbig, a spanish designer based in Barcelona. In her atelier she always has her bulldog assist her. As press release says it’s ‘a silent yet attentive witness to the atelier life.’

First whiff of A Bulldog in the Atelier brings a gently herbal aroma of Roman chamomile but it’s not just a simple note. It’s quite a complex accord that very quickly becomes caramelized and crunchy at the same time. Kind of like caramel sprinkles used as dessert topping. Maybe a few minutes later I get something nutty from it that reminds me of almond. This almondy aroma is toasty and warm but there’s also some creaminess like a heliotrope in its surroundings. Then it develops a warm spiciness that blends coriander with pepper. It adds a nice accent to this pretty opening.

Top notes mingle on my skin for around 20-30 minutes and then heart notes slowly come up, emerging from the deeper parts of the fragrance. I smell quite a hefty dose of vetiver – it smells woody in a dry manner but geranium note that appears shortly after make it smell more crisp & green, with an herbal rosy backnote to it. It even becomes slightly exotic in my opinion & there’s something there that makes me think of upcoming Christmas. Maybe it’s a nutmeg that is also a part of gingerbread spice mix. A Bulldog in the Atelier has a yummy warmth that suits current season.

teresa-helbig-bulldog

For the next couple of hours the perfume would slightly change on my skin, maintaining its warmth while proportions of different ingredients would change. Some moment I smell more vetiver, the other one it’s more spices. Afterwards this solid and substantive sandalwood base accord appears. Of course it’s woody but it’s somehow undecided if it wants to go in more smooth & creamy direction or the very opposite of it. It’s in between, combining smoothness and dryness. Vanilla adds a noticeable brightness to the blend while benzoin introduces a balmy facet that reflects the light.

Light that hides within Teresa Helbig fragrance scatters like rays on a sequins fabric – elegantly and with grace. The drydown of her A Bulldog in the Atelier has a whole bunch of musk. It appears as a multi-faceted note here as it brings something white & fluffy on one side, then there’s something mineral, almost salty & then again there’s a big part of it that is sensual and carnal. There’s also patchouli listed but I didn’t smell it straight. Actually I have to admit that to some extend this perfume reminds me of Guerlain Shalimar. They share similar tenderness despite being built differently.

All in all I find A Bulldog in the Atelier to be a nice perfume. It’s warmth, mellow character and level of complexity provide lots of changes throughout a daily wearing. Plus it’s very suitable for current season of Winter that is almost here. This perfume for Teresa Helbig was designed by perfumer Shyamala Maisondieu. Its longevity is good while sillage  stays closer to the skin. Concentration of this composition is at eau de parfum level. The only available size is 100 ml. Did any of you had a chance to try this line? Or maybe some of you was familiar with this fashion designer before?

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