Tag Archives: Sideris

Monday Quick Sniffs (on Tuesday), part 21

Aaand… We’re back in the studio to provide you with the fresh portion of Quick Sniffs.

Masque is an Italian perfume brand (from Milan, by the way) which debuted in 2012. Montecristo that I’m reviewing today joined the collection last year along with 2 other compositions. How does it smell? Ugh… It’s animalic as hell! There’s lots of fur, sweat and general dirtiness. The scent is almost fecal in the opening, at some point making me think of some unknown soup with fennel and fenugreek. The brand on their own mentions they used the essence made of hyrax secretion. After some time Montecristo loses the sharp edge and mellows with ambrette, rum and styrax. It then carries on as smoky blend of labdanum, tobacco and… gaiac wood of course! Few hours later a sweaty-wood facet of cedar is revealed and shortly after amplified with somewhat salty benzoin accord. There’s also a lot of earthy and a bit rotten patchouli in the drydown, celery seeds make the blend slightly greener and vegetal. This perfume is really not to my liking and the bottle doesn’t look captivating as well. If you like animal scents, this is for you. Montecristo was composed by Delphine Thierry. The perfume has nice longevity and good projection.

Sideris by Maria Candida Gentile is a lovely and unusual blend. Immediately after spraying it unveils a soft yet deep accord of sideris, a mountain tea. It has a slightly powdery and minimally green aspect which shortly disappears. In a matter of next few minutes Sideris becomes balsamic – benzoin adds much more density to it while beeswax adds some sort of specific sweetness and tenderness. Later on a lot of smoky incense appears making this perfume warm and cold alternately. Finally the warmer side wins when incense becomes more subtle and saffron gains on intensity. It doesn’t smell like those jammy, rose-like saffrons many of us enjoy so much, it’s more dried. In addition to that myrrh adds some raw spiciness to the composition. I could also notice some black pepper with its metallic background. The drydown stage appears after 6-7 hours and it’s quite mellow. It has a smooth, slightly creamy sandalwood combined with other woodsy tones without any species mentioned. This perfume somehow makes me think of either a lone trip in the mountains in the autumn, or a visit to a crowded, smoky bar. Sideris is really worth giving a try.

Djhenne is one of the latest new positions on the shelf of Parfumerie Generale collection. This perfume is also an element of the brands’ 10th birthday celebration. First accord my nose picks from this composition is the one of cocoa beans. It has a tender, velvety quality which is a little bit powder. Of course it veers a little bit into the gourmand territory but it’s not a gourmand blend per se. After around 15 minutes the aromatic side is revealed with hints of purple-gray lavender flowers. It adds a masculine element to the composition yet again, it doesn’t make Djhenne a fougere. Later on I could smell a little bit of chocolate-minty concoction softened by a blond leather accord. Well, the latter one is more like a suede to me. It has quite sophisticated and elegant finish. The drydown turns out to be slightly more woody with cedar (not much sweat here.) Wheat absolute makes a resemblance to some vodka drink and it also gives a hay impression. The last touch is a calmed down balsamic smell of myrrh. All in all Djhenne is a great perfume, I just don’t see myself wearing it regularly.

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