Tag Archives: Tauer Perfumes

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 51

honey-oud

Until today I haven’t tried anything from Floris but I suppose that if someone put me in front of the shelf filled with their offerings, based just on the perfume name, Honey Oud wouldn’t be my first choice. However after learning that my scent sibling Undina likes it a lot & after receiving a sample from her I had no other choice but try it. Honey Oud indeed opens with a honey note but instead of smelling something animalic I am greeted with a luminous golden liquid which is quite sweet and reminds me more of an amber accord. This oozing, sticky honey is quite powerful but fades away relatively quickly. After a while Honey Oud reveals a lovely richness of rose, in the entourage of oud and patchouli. Both introduce density & the element of oriental darkness. It gets quite sultry and seductive. To some extend it reminds me of Tauer Phi Une Rose de Kandahar but less saturated. Drydown has quite a resinous vibe – balsamic labdanum in the front effuses its balmy and slightly incensy aroma. There is also amber and vanilla to introduce some brightness and the sweetness it gives forms a link to that impression from the opening. A bit of musk hints something carnal, wild but in the end it’s more plush. All in all Floris Honey Oud is quite a nice fragrance. It has a slightly misleading name and smells similar to other oriental oud & rose scents.

ysl-trench

In 2015 Yves Saint Laurent joined the bandwagon of creating exclusive boutique collections by releasing Le Vestiaire line. Among them Undina said I might like a few so I decided to start with Trench. This composition starts with a mild citrus accord composed with bergamot and tangerine. It’s not overly juicy and has sort of a powdery effect in the background. After some time a fuzzy, plush-like iris note arrives to the scene. It feels very soft, fluffy and just tiny bit like suede. In this part it’s reminiscent to Iris Prima by Penhaligon’s. Both of these fragrances share similar tenderness. Afterwards Trench develops a new fruity facet focusing on a milky-green yet delicate fig. This note is not very strong and gets easily overtaken by neroli. The smell of white flowers – rich & citrusy plays very nicely with the iris accord and makes you focus more attention on this particular part of the scent. Drydown offers a mellow, silky blend of ambrette seeds and musk. The latter one feels clean and soft like a cotton flower. It’s probably a white musk but at least in this case it doesn’t reek of nasty synthetic. A little bit of pale cedar wood only whispers in the back and never gets to play a significant rose. Same goes for fir absolute – I couldn’t even feel a hint of something coniferous, green. YSL Trench is an ok perfume. It doesn’t wow you but wears nicely on skin. Shame it’s so short-lived on my skin and has almost no sillage.

les-annees-25

In 2018 perfumer Andy Tauer celebrated 25 (!!!) years of Tauer Perfumes. To commemorate this amazing achievement (how many one-man brands with such experience do you know?) he created a limited edition fragrance named Les Annees 25 (vingt-cinque) which also refers to a Golden Age of humanity as well as to Art Deco exhibition of the same name in Paris. The composition is opened with a mouth-watering and spacious citrus accord. The mix of sour bergamot and sweet orange has an additional green-tinge of aromatic petitgrain and a brisk lemony spiciness of ginger. It immediately starts to give off a vintage vibe that reminds me of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue. In the heart of this scent we have an abundance of resinous, balsamic and slightly salty benzoin goodness which is then joined a lot of powdery-talc iris and some rose. Once you reach to the base Les Annes 25 becomes warmer and embracing with aromatic and slightly spicy tonka beans. Going further I could smell oakmoss with some earthy patchouli. Plus a hefty dose of sandalwood sweetened with vanilla. There’s also ambergris and musk that give it an old-fashioned smell. Les Annees 25 is like an homage to the past and its perfume classics.

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Lemon supernova, Tauer Perfumes L’Eau

Andy Tauer is a great guy but you’ve probably already known that. As a person who learned on his own how to make perfume and who earned so much recognition and love among fragrance enthusiasts definitely could be considered a role model for anyone who has aspirations to start creating and to become a part of this world. But in all that Andy is a regular person like we all are. There are perfumers that would make you feel intimidated when you talk to them, but not Andy. Talking to him is like a chat with a friend who happens to have a big knowledge of the industry.

tauer-l-eau

A short while ago Andy presented L’Eau, a new cologne-themed fragrance for his Tauer Perfumes collection. It is actually his 3rd attempt to focus on citrus notes after Orange Star and limited edition Cologne du Maghreb. So how does it smell? L’Eau has somewhat astringent citrus opening. It starts off on more chilly side with a prominent and intensive lemon note that is followed by juicy tang of bergamot. Slightly sour at first it becomes more sugary because of sweet orange chord. The latter one kind of smells like candied peel. Lemon is especially lingering on my skin.

15 minutes later the perfume starts to shift & it starts to go in unexpected direction. On my wrist L’Eau develops into a smell of talcum powder with a lemon scent to it. It feels clean but not soapy (although it reminds soap a bit) and because of that chalky, powdery aspect the perfume gets dangerously close to a territory occupied by laundry detergent. I’m not sure if I want to go that way & I was happy when Andy’s new scent started to shift the other way. I wonder if this effect was achieved through the use of lemon blossom? Or maybe an iris flower? (I thought it doesn’t smell)

tauer-l-eau2

All these notes are placed on top of a soft base built around the idea of sheer muskiness, of something that wears comfortably on the skin and feels almost like a natural scent of the skin. There’s also a layer of pale woods that add some heft to Tauer Perfumes L’Eau but they do not stand out in a drastic way. There’s also a touch of warm, ambery vibe sprinkled on top. Throughout the entire development process it remains clean. Andy described it as unisex scent – and that’s exactly what it is. Sillage and lasting power of this eau de parfum are fine. It’s available in 50 ml blue glass pentagonal bottle that houses most of Andy’s creations.

I definitely recommend giving L’Eau a try, although it’s less cologne-y than I would like. It’s a modern interpretation for sure – even with lemon, bergamot and sweet orange it has a twist that takes it farther away from a classic cologne. If it doesn’t bother you there’s a chance that you’ll love L’Eau. But if you’re looking for a truly juicy, sparkling and invigorating thing, you might need to opt for something else. Personally I neither love or hate this Tauer Perfumes offering. I really value the experience and more off-road approach to the topic, I just prefer my citrus in a classic way.

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