Tag Archives: Viktoria Minya

Forest nymph, Viktoria Minya Hedonist Cassis

Perfume as something indulging, something that brings pure pleasure. Perfume as a symbol of hedonism was the idea Hungarian perfumer Viktoria Minya had in her mind when she established her own fragrance house and launched her 1st composition simply named – Hedonist. Over two years have passed since then and the range is slowly getting bigger. After Hedonist met two sisters in 2014, in 2015 a third sister joins the family. She comes dressed in purple.

Hedonist Cassis opens with a very specific aroma of cut grass. First of all it smells very fresh and green. I also find something slightly sappy and juicy about this note. You are probably familiar with the smell of lawn mowing. That’s how the opening smells to me – green sap from grass, the feeling of freshness. There is also something a bit watery, dewy in the opening. Just as if someone decided to mow the lawn really early in the morning before the Sun helps a morning dew to evaporate.

Just a few minutes later green cut grass accord is followed by cassis. It quickly starts to dominate in the composition of new Hedonist, pushing forward this interesting tart aroma. Personally I am not a fan of cassis perfumes. In this particular creation I find this accord to be a bit chilly in its initial stage. Once it settles on the skin it turns a little bit camphorous and mentholated on me. What I smell kind of reminds me of Airwaves Cool Cassis chewing gum. I even liked the way it smelled and tasted and Hedonist Cassis goes a bit that way for me. After some period of time I seem to notice very faint fruity facet of black currant but it’s not in official notes. It’s probably a side effect from cassis.

After 1,5 hours Hedonist Cassis starts to smell more of rose and this aroma is gradually growing stronger, though it doesn’t become dominating at all. Rose introduces a nice floral touch to the blend by effusing the aroma that is gentle and serene. Petals are silky here, a little bit dewy also. Their color would be some shade between beige and light pink – definitely nothing bright and bold when it comes to color. Going down the structure of Viktoria’s new fragrance I finally reach the base. It’s woody thanks to cedar wood. It feels substantial but in a mellow way. You can smell its presence there but the weight of the note had to be kept low to match the whole concept. Also I find this cedar to be well-mannered: woodsy and not dirty.

Hedonist Cassis by Viktoria Minya embodies serene and grace in the fragrance universe. It’s a pretty and nice combination of fresh, green and aromatic notes with floral and woody touches. Obviously this new offering is more modest than its rich, lush & opulent predecessor. Saying that it fits well together with Hedonist Rose and Hedonist Iris which were also lighter. I would rate sillage or Cassis as moderate and longevity as good. I could smell it for around 6 hours after using 2-3 small smudges from my sample. One more note – this is a very feminine, very girly perfume. I don’t see too many gents wearing it on regular basis. This review finishes with a mini story I came up with:

There was this young lady. Cassie was her name. She was a little bit more than just an average girl. She was not a star as shyness was her biggest, invisible scar. Surrounded by old friends, not many, but faithful ones; she knew she’d open up to people, that this will happen once. Her voice was sweet like berries and lips were pink as rose; Pale skin, round cheeks and little graceful nose. She loved wearing girly dresses in her favorite purple hue; One day when she grows up she’ll break a heart or two.

New fragrance is available in eau de parfum concentration. Bottle is 45 ml and has purple bohemian crystals immersed in the fragrant juice. Do you think you might like it?

 

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Viktoria Minya Hedonist Rose & Hedonist Iris

Viktoria Minya is a representant of a young generation of perfumers who have been following a succesful path of fragrant career. Originally from Hungary, Viktoria has studied the secrets of perfume art in Grasse and currently lives in Paris, where her studio is located. Viktoria launched her first fragrance called Hedonist in 2013 and it quickly became a huge success, her creation made it to all major niche perfume boutiques all over the world. This rich and self-indulgent mixture of rum, peach, vanilla and osmanthus mesmerized thousands of perfumistas on different continents.

This month Viktoria oficially presents her latest works, which are two new, and also very different chapters in Hedonist collection. Centered around precious rose essence – Hedonist Rose, and modern, elegant scent featuring a noble iris accord – Hedonist Iris. Both of these fragrances were based on the concept of perfume as a hedonistic pleasure and they share similarities with the first Hedonist perfume from 2013. Main difference is that these new creations are lighter, not that opulent.

Hedonist Iris opens on my skin with a very subtle citric and a bit cologne-like scent of aromatic bergamot zest and within few minute the opening becomes much more juicy and tart due to black currant note infused in this composition. 10-15 minutes later, these two notes disappear completely, marking the progress of the composition. That is when Hedonist Iris starts to effuse gentle woody notes which become stronger and more substantial in the next couple of minutes. This fragrance features a cedar wood note but it’s surprisingly smooth and polished. It’s simply beautiful.

Cedar is usually a rugged woody note but in Hedonist Iris it is very elegant and adds a twist of sophistication. Perhaps it’s perceived that way thanks to the beautiful iris note which brings a lovely portion of powdery notes that soften the entire blend. Over some period of time the powderness from iris transforms into more gourmand powderness of cocoa. It smells yummy, like Hedonist Iris had a bit of chocolate inside of it. This scent makes me salivating. In the course of the day this iris composition from Viktoria Minya becomes musky in a soft, fluffy and cuddly way.

To break the impression of innocence Viktoria added some darker elements to this perfume – I’m speaking about labdanum here, which adds a little bit smokier and resinous sensation that is transparent enough not to overwhelm the other notes and it’s evident enough to be noticed by the person who wears it. In the drydown Hedonist Iris also becomes a tad more spicy thanks to pink pepper accord. In the next couple of hours the perfume becomes more complex, the notes of cocoa, iris and woods entwine. After many hours Hedonist Iris feels more floral once again but it’s creamier this time, making me think of narcissus and mimosa, although these are just my guesses…

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Hedonist Rose is a very playful composition which starts with a bubbly accord of white wine. You can smell the aroma of ripe grapes from this composition, mixed with sparkling and energetic bubbles that add a young character to this perfume. After a couple of minutes I begin to smell the rose. At first it’s very sheer and dewy, also accentuated with facets of lemon. At first this rose note is pink but as Hedonist Rose gets more time to fully bloom, it becomes much more intensive, more red and richer. After a while the result is a beautiful rose with mildly oriental background.

What I love about Hedonist Rose from Viktoria Minya is the fact that she created a rose perfume being very conscious of what she was doing. The depth of rose oil is softened here by the note of peach which adds just a tiny hint of fruity style to the scent but most of all it creates a delicate and lactonic background for it. At a certain point these two notes become unity, creating a very soft and refined blend. I also mentioned the oriental background in this scent. Well, it’s oriental to me – intorduced by the use of cloves that smell warm, spicy & sweet at the same time.

Cloves in Hedonist Rose reminded me of saffron at first and but later it became clear to me that what my nose is smelling is a clove accord. This note also brought to my mind one of my favorite clove perfumes (Sonoma Scent Studio Sienna Musk). The combination of cloves and rose is my favorite part of this perfume because it’s floral and spicy at the same time and I like this kind of combinations. This beautiful stage lasts for a couple of hours before rose becomes more transparent and a concoction of musk and amber bring a very warm, soft and comforting sensation.

If these two perfumes represented types of personalities, Hedonist Iris would be a modern and self-confident type of woman who knows what she wants and who knows how to get it. She loves to wear smart clothes. On the other hand Hedonist Rose represents more ethereal woman with a girly nature who loves to dream, read romance books. Her favorite outfit would be a colorful dress with different patterns. Both perfumes are very feminine, sexy and charming; rather not for men.

Hedonist Iris & Hedonist Rose come in signature bottle for the house of Viktoria Minya. Iris edition is infused with white genuine bohemian crystals while Rose edition has pink crystals inside of the bottle. Both scents are of eau de parfum concentration, they are priced at €155 for 45ml each. Perfumes are already available at Viktoria Minya website where you can also buy individual samples (€5 for 1,75ml) or a sample set (€15) consisting of 4 fragrances: Hedonist trio and Eau de Hongrie (to be reviewed) which Viktoria kept as a secret until the very launch. Other stockists will get the novelties soon. Anyone who seeks beauty and femininity in perfume should try these new launches.

[note] Samples were a courtesy of Viktoria Minya, pictures are from the press

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