Tag Archives: Yann Vasnier

Scorched Ground, Memo Sicilian Leather

Do you think that Covid pandemic will permanently change our habits & behaviors? I have been vaccinated with both doses of Pfizer vaccine but still there’s a lot of hesitation inside me when it comes to go back to travelling abroad. For now I’m still staying on a safer side and limit my voyages to the ones within Poland. Especially that the shadow of the 4th wave is looming nearby. Of course I miss friends who live abroad and I miss the opportunity to try so many new fragrances at the perfume shows but it is what it is. That’s why I was happy to see Memo introduce Sicilian Leather – a promise of wonderful trip without leaving home. Does it smell like one of my past summers?

Smelling Sicilian Leather really does bring back memories of my past vacations. On my skin the leathery tones come righ up but they are not the only ones that my nose can pick up. Tangy citrus notes brighten up the opening like the rising sun – a symbol of Sicily. Bitter orange with its mouth-watering juiciness starts an energetic dance when Italian bergamot & lime join this magnificent performance of smells. I feel caught in a vortex of yellow, orange and green-ish hues as my nose registers the hesperidic smells of various type. Some of them are more zesty, the others are more dry like a gin. But at least for me it’s that beautiful orange scent that leads the rest of the notes.

Not much later the bright citrus opening becomes more low-key and at that point some spicy notes become more pronounced. Coriander and cardamom introduce a grainy texture to Sicilian Leather and they make the perfume venture into spicy direction in a way that feels very dry to my nose. When I smell it what comes to my mind is the smell of old paper, old books, parchment but also of the cracked clay ground that has been scorched by the Mediterranean sun. It’s a specific type of smell but to me it’s very pleasant and what I think better defines this new fragrance as “sicilian”.

Over time the character of Memo Sicilian Leather shifts its character towards more aromatic side. Balsam fir is what gives this perfume more dimension as depth by emanating the slightly coniferous smell that I perceive as “warm & cold” at once. It’s warm because the noter per se is quite balsamic and enveloping. Cold because it gives me this weird feeling of solitude in the dark & deep forest. Violet leaf breaks away from this vision as it introduces a fresh verdancy, a crunchy and dewy smell of the flower leaves. There’s something elegant and sophisticated about it, I must admit.

The drydown of this composition is when the leather accord really shines. The leather becomes particularly soft and suede-like in Sicilian Leather but there’s also something a bit rough and austere to it. It certainly does carry the scent reminiscent of tanning and colorants. The scent is rich but not overpowered – and it smells like a brand new bag from an expensive artisan. Cedarwood gives more density while gaiac wood provides an effect that I’d compare with waxing. The scent is woody, deep but also oily, with some heft. Patchouli introduces some earthiness that is a fitting effect for a perfume of this sort. Akigalawood which is a woody-patchouli molecule completes the picture.

I was writing this review on a particularly ugly day – it was raining heavily and the temperature dropped by 10 degrees compared to the previous day. It really made me wonder if the end of summery weather is near. Sicilian Leather from Memo and perfumer Yann Vasnier rekindled the memories of super hot days I spent in Taormina, Palermo or at the hills of Etna couple of years ago. I’m grateful any perfume that has the ability to brighten up the day and make you feel warm when it’s cold. Whenever I’ll want to remember those days again I’ll reach for Sicilian Leather, it’s such a great fragrance. (but Italian Leather still remains my number one among Cuirs Nomades series)

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1001 nights, Keiko Mecheri Bois Satin

Keiko Mecheri, born in Atami, Japan, was an artistic soul since her early years. She’s an artist and also a trained pianist. Her passion grew stronger thanks to her studies in the arts in Europe and at UCLA. In the first place she created a brand focused on skin care products and scented candles, its name was Bazaar des Senteurs. After the introduction of first three perfume creations, perfume became the main interest of Maison Keiko Mecheri. In march 2014, during Esxence in Milan, Keiko presented the new perfume (at the moment it’s not the newest one anymore, since then the brand managed to introduce another composition) and it was really to my liking.

The opening whiff of Keiko Mecheri Bois Satin goes right up my sinuses and gives me shivers. Right from the very first second you are treated to a generous dose of saffron. This note starts very intensive, almost pungent. It’s really warm, fierce and bears the bright red color. After around 5 minutes the intensity drops but the saffron is still very beautiful there. Shortly after that vanilla joins the composition – and when it does that, Bois Satin transforms into an ultimate weapon of seduction. It adds a really elegant sweetness that is a little bit powdery and dark at the same time. This rich aroma is warm and embracing, like the highest quality fluffy cashmere sweater. It wraps around you and makes you feel good.

At around 30 minutes mark new elements appear in the composition of this fragrance. First of all there is quite a lot of woody tones. The notes pyramid doesn’t declare any specific kind of wood but were I to name a species or two, I would probably say sandalwood and cashmere wood. The woody stage is definitely smooth. It’s also substantial yet really sensual. These woodsy notes entwine with vanilla and saffron so nicely, that after a while they become unity. So gorgeous!

Sweetened woody notes play really nicely on the skin, they sort of melt together with it but Bois Satin isn’t a skin scent per-se. You can smell the fragrance on your skin for sure but it’s rather quiet and inoffensive. If you want somebody else to smell it you either have to apply more generously or you have to invite that person to come much closer to you. Woods and sweetness last on my skin until the perfume is completely gone but there are still couple more things going on in this blend. My personal observation is that at some point Bois Satin develops a slightly liquory and chocolate-like vibe. They appear at the same time so I’m calling it a chocolate praline effect. It really is delicious and makes me lick my lips.

At some later point of development, after 2 maybe 3 hours, Bois Satin from Keiko Mecheri unveils this beautiful leathery vibe. No! Leather is a wrong word here, this is definitely like a suede. Very soft and gentle, a little bit fuzzy and pleasant in touch. The vibe it introduces is quite carnal and erotic, at least to me. This kind of perfume makes me think of warm and naked bodies. Luminous tones of amber combined with the vanillic flavor that still mingles in the background, they additionally highlight this sensuous effect making Bois Satin very close to the person who wears it.

In the drydown there’s a little bit of jasmine. The aroma of white flowers is combined with continuous woody and sweet tones, causing this note to have more oriental feeling rather than smelling typically floral. The same applies to the rose accord but since I think there’s less rose than jasmine in Bois Satin, rose somehow got lost in this arabic concoction of woods, sweets and spices. As Keiko explained, the main inspiration for Bois Satin was Loukhoum, the sweet and also the iconic perfume from Keiko Mecheri. Bois Satin was meant to be its more grown-up, mature interpretation. I think it worked well.

Bois Satin was created for Keiko Mecheri by perfumer Yann Vasnier. This perfume starts very pungent with wonderful saffron but in a very short time softens and becomes a composition very close to the skin and it stays there until if disappears after around 7-8 hours. This eau de parfum is closed in the black 75ml flacon – signature of Maison Keiko Mecheri. By the way, the brand has recently changed a design of their caps. Instead of being multi-faceted, they are more square-like now. Recommended wear time for this scent is winter. The cold aura should make it even better.

[note] pictures: press, Feline Hebert Pinterest, klischees.blogspot.com

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