Monday Quick Sniffs, part 11

Fragrances from this session of Monday Quick Sniffs are my new arrivals. I got them is a perfume samples swap we arranged with Undina of Undina’s Looking Glass in late February this year. Thank you dear for this chance of smellies exchange. It was fun to wait for the package and try new things.

Bond No. 9 released I ♥ New York for Him in September 2011 and it marked 10 years since New York’s September 11 tragedy. I ♥ New York for Him is classified as aromatic fougere fragrance and contains notes of grapefruit, juniper berries, ginger, lavender, geranium, patchouli, leather, amber, musk, sandalwood and labdanum. All fragrances in I Love New York collection were developed by IFF. In the opening this fragrance smells of tart and bitter grapefruit and very shortly I ♥ New York for Him develops green and fresh crispiness of geranium. Patchouli brings more masculine character to the scent and ginger make it more spicy and fizzy. I don’t notice much sandalwood (is that the base?) but I get some juniper berries and hints of herbal lavender. I don’t get leather or labdanum at all. Some musk and amber? Maybe. The scent is nice and interesting, it has moderate projection and longevity. What I don’t like about this Bond No. 9 is that it smells quite artificial.

To celebrate 100th anniversary of L’Heure Bleue perfumer Thierry Wasser of Guerlain decided to craft a modern interpretation of this masterpiece – he called it L’Heure de Nuit (Night Hour). This perfume is like L’Heure Bleue minus retro, old-fashioned plush feeling and minus some of the almost make-up like powderness. In result we got the fragrance that smells of heliotrope which is almost like an almond praline. Orange blossom is very beautiful here. Clean, slightly soapy and sheer. Musk is rather creamy with a floral twist from jasmine. Iris and rose of L’Heure de Nuit are very similar to L’Heure Bleue but they’re much lighter and more airy. Guerlain L’Heure de Nuit sparkles like bubbles in champagne. It’s a happy scent that is an interesting alternative for those who want to experience more outgoing and cheerful version of the Guerlain classic. It lasts long and has a nice sillage. For me it’s nice but not better than L’Heure Bleue. L’Heure de Nuit has something laundry-like in it – you may not like this feeling.

Thanks to Undina I had a chance to experience fragrances from A Dozen Roses for the first time. One that smells particularly interesting and funny for me, has a poetic name of Shakespeare in Love. Right after spraying it smells of delicate roses with a light tea background sensation. The airy smell of red petals interlaces with clear gardenia note. After few minutes Shakespeare in Love bursts with happiness. Fruity aroma of pear appears and it carries really happy and uplifting vibe. This scent will carry your straight into a good mood. In the middle of this fruity smell jasmine shines from time to time. In the drydown (and it comes quite quickly) Shakespeare in Love effuses some smooth woodsy molecules, without sharp edges or splinters. Vanilla adds a final touch to the scent. It’s sprinkled all over the woody accord. It smells slightly sweet with a dessert vibe to it. The scent is very nice despite the fact that it doesn’t project much in a day course. But it lasts for several hours. And it’s bottle looks glamour with this picture of rose on its front. Like a little piece of art, isn’t it?

PS. Did you notice all three of perfume above are connected by a blue theme? That wasn’t planned!

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12 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 11

  1. shellyw says:

    I know very little about l’heure de nuit, thanks for the description. Heliotrop is a favorite of mine so I will have to check this one out and compare it to my l’heure blue

    • lucasai says:

      L’Heure Bleue was launched few months ago and it’s limited to boutiques and some more exclusive shops.
      Hope you’ll like it, it’s a modern translation of classic, crisp, bright

  2. Dear Lucas

    I do like these ‘light bite’ reviews on a Monday – they are excellent examples of concision and show off your analytical skills to their full.

    I don’t think could bring myself to try a paired down version of l’Heure Bleue (seems like an odd way to celebrate 100 years), even though I love heliotrope, I think it;s the suggestion of a laundry smell that’s putting me off completely.

    I ‘heart’ New York sounds a little bit like a perfume by numbers so I’ll give that a miss too, but something about Shakepeare in Love draws me in. Perhaps it’s just that quest I seem to be on for a tea scent I actually like!!

    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • lucasai says:

      You know, for me Monday Quick Sniffs are a way to talk about fragrances that I don’t like this much to write a full sized review of. People find this way entertaining as it’s a short perfume summary.
      Agree, L’Heure de Nuit is a weird way to celebrate, many mention the laundry vibe.
      Bond No. 9 scents all seem to be quite plastic, and they’re sooo many of them (this lowers the quality)
      Do try Shakespeare in Love if you can find it!

  3. Kafkaesque says:

    I haven’t tried A Dozen Roses but I think your assessment of the other two are very accurate. L’Heure de Nuit should have been much darker, instead of being laundry-fresh, sweet and gourmand-like. A huge disappointment, though utterly on par with Guerlain’s trend these days towards the light and sweet. I’m not a fan of how they’ve veered away from the classics. Not AT ALL.

    As for Bond No. 9, well, “For Him” sounds a lot better than “For All” was on me. I’m not sure that’s saying much. The synthetics killed me and were truly unbearable. It sounds like this one is pretty much in the same vein.

    • lucasai says:

      A Dozen Roses was fine, nothing more. And yup, L’Heure de Nuit should have much more character, or maybe they should’ve just made a superb bottle to celebrate 100th anniversary of L’Heure Bleue, no? But still it appeals to many perfumistas, Victoria of BDJ liked it a lot.
      Agreed, looks like I Love New York for Him is a better experience than for all, still very synthetic and a pass.

  4. hajusuuri says:

    Meh except for A Dozen Roses which I am looking forward to trying.

    As to the Bond No. 9 I Love New York series, I have more than ten each of the the various “colors” = blue, black, light pink, bright pink, green, white with rainbows and I have not even tried one, ever and based on your review of the blue one, the entire lot is likely headed to the donation pile or garage sale, whichever comes first.

    • lucasai says:

      You can try L’Heure de Nuit too, only for comparison with L’Heure Bleue.
      You’ve got 10 of those Bonds, that’s a lot! Seriously, and how come you haven’t tried any of them yet?
      I say re-sell them, you’ll get some money for another and much better perfume

  5. sweetgrass79 says:

    Thanks for the reviews. The Shakespeare in Love sounds good, the other two not so much. I haven’t been terribly impressed with any of the Bond fragrances I’ve tried. I got a few samples in a swap, and I took to layering them to get what I wanted. I had a layering scheme that was 3 dabs Madison Soiree (floral), 2 dabs New Haarlem (coffee/vanilla/fougere? thing), and 1 dab of New York Oud to round it all out. Turned out to be a nice combo.

    • lucasai says:

      You’re welcome. Shakespeare in Love smells nice. Not groundbreaking but it’s good. I tried a few Bond scents and they all smell artificial and plastic. Maybe that’s the way Bond do their perfume, I don’t know.
      At least you could combine them into something better, solo they’re not good.

  6. Undina says:

    I like your quick sniffs posts.

    A good thing about L’Heure de Nuit is that I could wear it if I had to (the original one doesn’t work for me at all, I’d rather go scentless).

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