Song of Rainbow Fairies, Dusita Splendiris

There are books that are written so well that you just can’t stop reading until you learn what happens to the main character at the end of the tome. There are movies that are so relatable that they make us feel as we’re part of the story. There’s music that touches the right chords of our hearts and moves us to tears. Finally there are perfume that are so masterfully composed that their smell takes us to another world, a world only we know. Splendiris from Parfums Dusita¬†is like a magic wand that opens the door to a realm where fairies, wizards, pixies and many other fantastic beings dwell. Nothing is impossible there. Shall we step into this world together to discover its wonders?

The world of Splendiris welcomes you with a sheer citrus juiciness that is so ethereal that it feels more as if someone scented their silk scarf with bergamot, blood orange and mandarine and walked on the same path few moments before you. The trail still lingers in the air but you can’t tell in which directions the owner of the scent went. None of these citrus notes is particularly accentuated, although I find the sweet scent of mandarine to peak slightly above the others. Couple of minutes after this journey began the perfume blooms and soon will reveal a whole palette of colours.

Violet leaf creates an ozonic, watery facet that is reminiscent of the smell of the air after the rain. Crispy green fragrance of the leaves adds a touch of freshness and a dewy feel to Splendiris. While violet leaf is more like geranium or even mint there’s also a hint of fig leaf which creates more dry, verdant and sappy impression. Even though there’s a rainy aura associated with this part of the scent, it’s more like a happy summer rain that might bring rainbow as soon as the sun comes out. This perfume sure has a lot of charm and any part of it feels just magical & tickles one’s imagination.

Pissara used some carrot seeds while working on Splendiris – they add a vegetal facet to the perfume and makes for a perfect introduction to what’s coming next. Everything changes when violet joins the composition. From this moment the latest Dusita fragrance turns sensual and full of powdery nuances. Violet introduces a spectrum of delicate and refined floral tones but at the same time there’s some candy sweetness to it in the background. There’s a part of flowers that are fresh while some of the petals have been candied or even turned into violet flavour powder candy.

splendiris

It’s a faint kind of sweetness but it’s enough to make you want to lick Splendiris off your skin. Just don’t do that or you’ll miss something even greater. Iris is the queen in this world – she enters with a fanfare of buttery and powdery deliciousness that just makes you want to melt and become one with it. In Splendiris it’s just so gorgeous that it makes me weak in the knees any time I wear it. There’s something very unusual about this orris. Even though irises are considered odorless this perfume makes me believe that I was also smelling its silky petals in addition to the precious rhisome.

After some time this magnificent iris of Splendiris blooms on the skin even more, now showing its true colours. Its flower is not only blue or purple as the most commonly known. The perfume also bears hues of yellow, white, creamy, burgundy and even more brown-ish shade. It’s like wearing a magic spell on your skin and when vanilla appears it allows orris to become more creamy & slightly gourmand. At this stage of development there was also a moment when I detected a grain note of wheat, very close to one found in Erawan. For a change it’s more dry and grassy in character.

Splendiris continues to surprise me until the very end. The drydown, which is still overflowing with iris, now starts to solidify and develops woody aromas that would serve as a base for the main star. Here vetiver – green, herbaceous and slightly coumaric as hay combines with cedarwood which is much more substantive and surrounds the wearer with a woody scent that is unpolished but still in style. Ambergris with its salty-flavored depth and sensuality ensures long-lasting of the fragrance on skin, letting you enjoy this beauty until your day is over. And what a grand day it must’ve been.

Everything feels so right and in place when it comes to Splendiris by Parfums Dusita¬†that I think Pissara Umavijani must’ve connected with each raw material, iris in particular, on a spiritual level to pour so much beauty into this fragrance. Or maybe she was guided by some unworldly powers? But that not the most important. What really matters is that Splendiris is a truly splendid perfume that lives up to the name it was given. To me this is a flawless fragrance and I know I’m going to enjoy my bottle, which looks like a precious gem with this light purple colour of the juice. It’s a kind of perfume Alice from “Alice in Wonderland” or Wendy from a tale about Peter Pan would wear.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 55

kierin-nitro-noir

When you think about perfumery and the US, first what comes to mind is that a huge number of artisan perfumers come from America. But when it comes to niche perfumery it’s not at all that prominent. Some time ago I was contacted by Kierin NYC, a new brand from New York, who kindly offered to send me samples. Nitro Noir opens with a zesty tanginess of bergamot that shortly steps down revealing a mouth-watering berry scent. No particular berry is in the lead, it’s more like a blend of sweet strawberries, raspberries with more tart blackberries or even blackcurrant. To my nose the scent is intensively blended, making the perfume almost like a fruit smoothie. After some time a gentle tingling sensation appears somewhere in the background, the smell points unmistakably towards pink pepper. The latter one has been almost abused by perfumer for the last couple of years. At some point iris joins the composition, making Nitro Noir feel more velvety and plush. It’s creamy and buttery, quite gourmand in my opinion – like some tasty pastry cream. Addition of patchouli makes the perfume deeper, it adds dimension. Patchouli also introduces a wave of mystery by bringing earthiness and almost suede-like finish to the iris accord. To some extend it reminds me of Moonlight Patchouli by Van Cleef & Arpels.

eau-d-italie-easy-to-love

I know many of you have mixed feelings towards this brand (mostly because of the bottle) but I do like Eau d’Italie. This year marks the 15th anniversary of the brand and to celebrate this milestone they created an easy to love perfume and named it… Easy to Love. This composition opens with a blend of sappy plant juice smell combined with the aroma that reminds me of cut grass. Few minutes later the fragrance becomes easier to define – it’s a light fig note. You can smell the verdancy of a fig leaf along the fruitiness of the fig itself. Somewhere nearby there’s a bittersweet back note that makes this new fragrance more yummy. There’s something tart about it. The brand says it’s white currant. I’m familiar with the fruit but haven’t seen it in perfume before. It’s like a milder, toned down version of blackcurrant. In its heart Easy to Love has a delicate and sheer floral note of peony – its flowery scent bears pastel colors and a lightweight, airy, dewy tones. Honey adds a tiny bit of tender sweetness without any animalic connotations. It’s more like a flower pollen actually. The base is creamy thanks to tonka bean, which at the same time adds some density. Ambrette adds a musky, vegetal scent that makes me think of a garden in the summer. I never loved fig in my perfume but this one is so light I could give it a try.

kierin-sunday-brunch

Another one from Kierin is a perfume called Sunday Brunch. This perfume begins with a truly bitter bergamot that feels so rich initially that on the first whiff it felt as if the scent way straight into my sinuses. A great way to have this sort of a wake up call perfume. Lemon makes this perfume even more lively thanks to being so zesty and chilled, as if taken straight from the fridge. After a while it becomes sort of powdery, reminiscent of the albedo, a white layer hiding right underneath an aromatic citrus peel. Black tea accord stirrs things up by adding a smell that is slightly more acrid and with tannins. It’s not smooth anymore but it feels right. Tea leaves combined with citrus bitterness give an impression of Earl Grey tea. Sunday Brunch is a type of perfume you’d probably wear on a lazy weekend when you’d rather stay in bed all day rather than go out to the world. Jasmine aroma is quite faint in this fragrance but it gives a nice twist, like a flavor to the tea. It doesn’t change much but it makes everything more enjoyable. This and Nitro Noir are both composed by perfumer Mathieu Nardin. Kierin NYC appears to me as a funky, easy-going brand.

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