A mother’s perfume, a retrospective

In life of every perfumista, blogger or not, comes a moment when they are asked how it all started. There’s always someone curious to hear a story how one person got interested in fragrance. I’ve read quite many stories like that and noticed that they share some similarities. In many cases it turns out that as young boys and girls we were observing our mothers. Many say that their mothers used to have a vanity table topped with make up products as well as flacons of perfume and how they were snooping when she used those scented specifics. Some would even sneak in to her boudoir to borrow a puff or two so that they smell their mothers, like a person they look up to.

Those are beautiful and sentimental stories that warm up ones heart. But to be completely honest with you, when I listen to a tale of “how I became a perfume lover” like that I have a completely different feeling going through my mind and my heart. I feel envy. For I wasn’t given a chance to inherit a passion for perfume from my mama. My home, my family didn’t have something that I could call a fragrance heritage. As far as I can remember my mama never wore a perfume. I remember asking her once about that and she remembered having one bottle of perfume in her youth. Its name was Wild Musk. It was from Coty. Apart from this one she couldn’t recall wearing anything else. One would think that this is as far as the story goes but no, the story continues.

When I started Chemist in the Bottle back in 2012, one of the first posts I published was a story about how my passion was born. I think that it wouldn’t be too much to say that I was the first member of my family who took a plunge “down the rabbit hole” for real. As more and more samples were arriving in my mailbox I started sharing some of them with my mama. Over time she began asking for more! As funny as it sounds I can say that I raised a new perfumista spirit in my mama. Years after that flacon of Wild Musk and years after not using any scents at all she slowly started to look for them. At first there were some fragrances from Avon or Oriflame but they never lasted long on her shelf. Most were then given away after using few sprays.

mama

Ever since then my mama would develop quite a sublime taste for fragrance, niche included. I think the perfume that made her perfumista-hood take off was Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic. Then for some occasion she got Calvin Klein Euphoria from my dad but it turned out to be fake, so for some time it ended as bathroom air freshener until it landed in thrash because spray nozzle stopped working. Then she had a phase of wearing Angel from Thierry Mugler but she quickly grew tired of it. She’s also quite into Prada, especially Candy, there was a time she wore it a lot.

She would also share an interest with the same fragrances that I wore. She has decants of Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme, Histoires de Parfums Rosam or one of my recent purchases – Moonlight Patchouli from Van Cleef & Arpels. She likes fresh, citrus compositions now but also fancies rose or iris. I’m happy that there are notes and perfumes we have in common. Currently she also uses YSL Manifesto and Lancome La Vie est Belle. And of course how could I forget that she rocks Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee too! If I asked her what’s her favorite perfume note, she’d probably answer incense without much hesitation. Her beloved one is Kyoto, from Comme des Garcons Series 3. She also has some Gabriella Chieffo Acquasala, which is a combination of marine notes with incense. Her last love, which surprised even herself is Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad.

Unfortunately my mama is a kind of person who doesn’t like to spend money on her own needs. She was always more eager to buy things for others. Therefore I doubt she’ll ever buy one of these expensive fragrances to fully enjoy them. I wanted to surprise her by splitting the latter fragrance I mentioned but sadly I there are no takers. I guess I will have to come up with different plan. Or maybe any of you would be willing to commit to few ml? I truly would like to thank her for being such a wonderful mother. She taught me a lot and is very supportive. With different mama I wouldn’t be the same person I am now. Happy Mother’s Day to all of your moms. Every one is special.

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When love is a curse, Jul et Mad Fugit Amor

Since their brand’s founding in 2012, Madalina and Julien Blanchard became known as connoisseurs of beautiful things. In their fragrance creations they conveyed beauty of different stages of love such as first meeting, falling in love or even honeymoon. They have also shown us a beauty of travel through their scents inspired by distant places and cultures. In a new chapter we get to know what kind of beauty they see in art forms of painting, sculpture and tapestry. One that I’m going to tell you about today was inspired by a Rodin’s work in marble that holds the same title.

fugit-amor-gold

Fugit Amor reveal its presence on my skin in a very aromatic way. Right from the start I can smell a lot of ginger emanating from my skin. To my surprise it’s not as zingy and lemon-y as I used to know. Ginger in this perfume serves a purpose of more spicy ingredient. It carries a soft, fresh spiciness that is quite mouth-watering I must say, it nicely resembles the aroma of a yellow-tinged ginger pulp. However it doesn’t take long until the note starts to smell more brownish, as if you were smelling just its outer peel instead of pulp. It’s definitely becoming more earthy. It’s also getting more substantive and intensive as we speak.

Arising substance of Jul et Mad Fugit Amor comes from vetiver. This note also presents itself in quite aromatic and woody rendition. It has a wonderful sillage of a tender & elegant richness. At first its scent is more like a fragrant grass but then it slowly transitions into more woody territory, however its hard to say if it smells of any specific kind of wood. At some point there’s also a tingly sensation of piquancy, which absolutely makes sense as the perfume features pink pepper accord. I also noticed a crunchy texture at this stage, which is coming from cardamom.

After around 40 minutes I start to smell carnation note. Strength of this fiery flower is gradually building up, introducing a nice change to the sctructure of Fugit Amor. Its fragrance is warm and sensual, setting you in the mood for cuddles. Aside of the floral aspect there’s also a sweet clove facet to this chord. Once carnation accord accommodates on my skin a very interesting thing happens. My skin mutes the fragrance so that it becomes soapy and clean. I didn’t expect such turn of events but I have to say that I love it! Smelling this soapy vibe instantly made me think of a very rich, luxurious soap a barber would use in his salon to shave some gentlemen. It’s a little bit a’la Infusion d’Homme from Prada, but more dry-woody and spicy-floral. I truly fancy this effect.

jul-et-mad-fugit-amor

The smell of barbershop soap lingers on my skin for a couple of hours. During that time it continues to be clean but other notes shift – one moment it’s vetiver that is predominant, the other time it’s carnation. Once these few hours pass, a soapy vibe subsides & that’s when Fugit Amor start to effuse a generous dose of elemi. Its becoming balsamic in an instant. There’s richness and texture to this balmy aromaterial. There’s also something slightly salty and incensy about elemi here. Generally speaking new Jul et Mad turns out to be true chameleon on my skin.

fugit-amor

Drydown, which still carries the remains of woody veriver, warm carnation and exclusive soap smell, is becoming more woody again – this time thanks to cedar. It’s substantive but since it’s a late stage of development it is nicely muted. Because of its rugged character it brings more masculine connotations. Amber note adds brightness of its shiny facets. It’s a nice oriental touch to the composition. Fugit Amor also has musk among base notes. Combined with cedarwood it’s a tad dirty in a bodily way but it’s more sexy and seductive because of that. You wouldn’t be bothered by this sensation, I can promise you that.

Fugit Amor was composed for Jul et Mad by perfumer Stephanie Bakouche in her atelier. She mastered all of the ingredients she used, which resulted in a full-bodied composition that changes its shape several times during the day, so that it smells slightly different every time you smell it. Fugit Amor is very complex and quite unusual masculine carnation fragrance. My personal soapy twist to it was most thrilling part of it. Presented in extrait de parfum concentration, the fragrance is available in 50 ml flacon (in more pricy luxury coffret version or in a cheaper box packaging). Its longevity is impeccable – applied in the morning it still smells in the evening, leaving a gentle trail behind the wearer. It’s a beautiful and elegant composition. Modern and classy at the same time.

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