Australian treasure, Grandiflora Boronia

To me Australia is the most undiscovered continents of them all, or at least a one I know least about. What I know is that their fauna and flora are completely different to what I’m used to, many of animals they have are very dangerous and they have hundred of plants I’ve never heard of. As it happens they also have 1 wonderful perfume brand which remained unknown to me until very recently. Grandiflora, a flower shop in Sydney that decided to step into perfume world has completely won me with their Queen of the Night. Today I will tell you about their 2017 launch.

Grandiflora Boronia opens quite herbaceous and aromatic, reminding me of hay in its dryness. Several minutes later it becomes sweeter, releasing a unique fragrance material which is boronia flower. This native to Australia flower has an interesting smell. It’s like a combination of tobacco flower, jasmine and herbs. I can smell a white floral vibe while wearing it but it feels muted, toned down. It’s not a heady bouquet of flowers but something more shy and dusty. I quite like it because it’s more casual than posh & it has that lovely warmth coming from underneath its top layer.

This warm aura given by Boronia makes me think of it as of slightly more masculine fragrance and that feeling becomes stronger over time. After a while a gentle woody smokiness arises from my skin. It’s again dry, aromatic, maybe a little bit spicy too. Recognized by me as tobacco it adds a smoky feeling & since it’s not paired with vanilla it leaves more austere impression of a chewy tobacco. Additional flavor is added by cognac. Once it gains some intensity it actually creates a boozy, alcoholic vibe. It feels warm, a bit anisic, with undertone of cloves mingling occasionally.

boronia

After some time this cognac accord, which by the way provides some luminosity to Boronia, becomes weaker and sits more flat atop the skin. Around similar time is when the perfume turns more fluffy (but not overly) and leathery through a suede note. I really like suede in perfume, it adds a delicate softness and a lot of character to the blend at the same time. It’s been combined by a perfumer with a bunch of resinous notes, so overall the perfume feels quite oriental thanks to the balsamic qualities it shows. Yet it still remains in a lightweight class when it comes to heaviness.

The drydown intrigues me with its smokiness. The smoky vibe is fresh and vegetal, coming from the black tea chord. It’s very realistic, you can actually smell the tea part and smoked part of it. And it faintly flavored with dried apricot for that interesting twist. Grandiflora Boronia also features caramel note but I have to admit I didn’t get its aroma right away. There was some sweetness in the perfume from the very beginning but I thought it could be how boronia smells like (I don’t know the smell of actual flower). Additional notes featured in the fragrance are dried woods and floral notes.

Boronia from Grandiflora wasn’t an instant love for me. Queen of the Night outshined it as I really fell for that one from the first try. However now that I try Boronia for another time it’s starting to grow on me. It certainly is unusual and I can’t think of other fragrance with many similarities to Boronia. Creativity and talent of perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour worked wonders again, it seems. I still maintain my opinion that Boronia veers slightly more masculine but I can imagine it being worn by women as well. This new composition is an eau de parfum & its bottle size is 50 ml.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 44

tobacco-rose

Getting to try at least one fragrance from Papillon Artisan Perfumes took me way longer than I thought. Were I given a chance to try it, I would pick Tobacco Rose over the others. Courtesy of a friend I can try it now. Tobacco Rose opens quite sweet and honeyed with a combined notes of beeswax and honey. Caraway adds some spiciness to it but it quickly evolves into something dirtier and animalic. Then we have the rose – its deep, dark red color is voluminous and has a strong presence yet its character is sensual. There’s also quite a lot of geranium in Tobacco Rose. It gives the impression of more crispy and fresh flower, as if it was still growing on the green bush. Drydown is earthy and balsamic. A blend of patchouli and tobacco gives a smoky vibe to the perfume. Oakmoss, tolu balsam or hay give it darker, more nocturnal vibe. Ambergris adds something mineral while musk is a source of some dirtiness. Papillon Tobacco Rose is not my fairytale. With a similar olfactive profile I prefer Tauer Phi Une Rose de Kandahar which is much more lush and rich.

reine-de-nuit

Byredo‘s tempo of introducing new fragrances completely left me behind in sampling them, not that I had any strong intention to follow them anyway. But here I am with a sample of Reine de Nuit. The opening is centered around blackcurrant. It has a nice fruity & tart smell that balances between sweetness and bitterness of its own. Interesting twist to it is the addition of saffron.  Once it starts unveiling its soft, velvety spiciness the whole perfume gains a comforting warmth. Afterwards there is a gradual progress that leads to rose accord. I didn’t find it very strong. Actually it somehow got lost among saffron scent. Did it blend too much? Maybe. Frankincense that appears some time later adds a smoky element but it’s not very dark. In fact it feels quite transparent with that gentle churchy vibe. Drydown has earthy patchouli and a note of amber and ambrette. There was something slightly resinous, mineral there but overally it didn’t impress me. Considering that it’s an extrait it has poor sillage and longevity on me. With a hyped 350 euro for 30 ml I will pass… 3 times!

neroli-outrenoir

I don’t pay much attention to boutique lines of various designer houses (with some exceptions). Since Hajusuuri and I are like fragrance twins I decided that it’s worth giving Guerlain Neroli Outrenoir a try after she said how much she liked it. So do I, it opens fresh, with a rustling verdancy of petitgrain combined with zesty & citric smell of bergamot. Then comes the aroma of black tea. It’s intense in its lightness, you will recognize it without a mistake. Its darkness contrasts with neroli and orange blossom that provide summery, white floral brightness to the composition. I find this part very invigorating, suitable for spring and summer, maybe even for colder season too. Moss enhances the qualities of smoky tea, giving this Guerlain more dusky edge. Myrrh adds a delicate oriental vibe of something balmy while ambrette add a vegetal aspect to it. I think Neroli Outrenoir is lovely. However I have one big issue with it – it just doesn’t last. 2 hours after I apply it it’s completely gone and I cannot even smell any leftovers of it. Applying more didn’t help. Therefore I refuse to pay an exclusive price for something that I won’t be able to enjoy through the day. Money saved!

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