Colors of the Wind, Memo Morrocan Leather

I have never been to Morocco but it’s definitely one of the countries from my to-visit list. Actually my parents went there for holidays this year & they absolutely loved it. Morocco is also one of those places that are relatively close to most European countries and that serves as a ‘gate’ to a whole new world. Different culture, cuisine, architecture. Not that I am a connoisseur of the latter but even I was familiar with traditional moroccan tiles, mosaics and arabesques. Latest addition to the Cuirs Nomades collection from Memo Paris explores Morocco vivid colors & intricate patterns.

Experiencing Morrocan Leather for the first time is like running head-on towards a wall of galbanum & there’s no way it would break once you hit it. Green molecules are absolutely overwhelming to the point of inducing some ofactive dizziness. I would describe this smell as sappy, heady and narcotic. On one hand it makes me think of snapped twigs only to evoke green vines of a tropical forest on the other hand. There’s also something humid to the galbanum note and the way it’s been presented. It takes some time but the verdancy finally subsides (not completely), giving way to a note of ginger.

Appearance of a new olfactive stimulus offers a new angle to look at this fragrance from a different perspective. Ginger in Morrocan Leather isn’t as lemony as it could but it still has its usual effervescence that brings more life to this perfume. At the same time it’s worth mentioning that to my nose it’s a bit dry & due to that its spiciness feels kind of prickly, if I may say so. As a back note we have a hint of tangy mandarin and some orange blossom. The latter one smells as if its fresh aspect was abandoned and only heavier – more oily and saturated molecules made it into the bottle.

Overall feeling of spiciness lasts and lasts, changing its shape several times yet still maintaining an equilibrium of green galbanum and tingling spices. Heart of Memo Moroccan Leather steps in after 2-3 hours. It’s easy to notice because the perfume moves away from the verdant in its large part in order to let the flower fully bloom. Ylang-ylang takes the lead, effusing the solar smell reminiscent of jasmine but which is definitely more creamy & lactonic, evoking a tropical paradise through its warmth and sensual aura. Beforehand the perfume felt close, hermetic; now it’s opening up.

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Coming up next we have my favorite part of Morrocan Leather – the iris. Present in the composition in an exquisite form of a butter, it elevates the scent, giving it a new quality. Through its buttery facets the perfume feels as if it was melting on your skin, hugging it with the most embracing, luxurious fragrance. I can detect elements of earthy and rooty iris goodness entwined with silky floral nuances and a hint of chocolate-y sweetness. And all together they smell balsamic on skin. As hours pass a powdery impression appears on skin and leads the way towards the accords of the base.

Viscous like an ointment, cypress revives a green impression that links top and base of Moroccan Leather. Leather itself is somewhere in between raw and untreated & pret-a-porter. It has some dusty, powdery fuziness but also a sulphuric vibe of a workshop. To me it smells like inside of a new leather bag. Styrax together with ambrox react on skin giving off a warm, balsamic and almost incensy cloud. Vetiver is like a seam that holds everything together while musk – dusty, decadent and slightly animalic results in a sultry, seductive waft. There’s also tonka for that aromatic volume.

While preparing a review of Memo Moroccan Leather I realized that it reminds me of another perfume from the same brand, namely Italian Leather. Both of these fumes exert green notes that later reveal leather and iris. But where Italian Leather was more crisp and had that dolce effect, Moroccan Leather was more balmy. The latter one is also greener in general. Like any other Memo Paris fragrance, Moroccan Leather was also composed by perfumer Alienor Massenet. A 75 ml bottle of this eau de parfum is adorned with flying hawk & moroccan geometric pattern.

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Travelling Box of Perfume – Notes from Shelly

Our Travelling Box of Perfume made it to California last week and we already have first impressions to share with everyone who joined this project. So here are a couple of notes from Shelly. By the time I’m posting this she actually delivered the box in person to the next place!

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I loved the privilege of the traveling box. I am trying to be prompt as I know many others are waiting too. I realize I have very little ability to convey what I smell and like in words. Scents are not in the verbal part of my mind. So, brief it will be…

Usually I love woods, freshness, vetiver. I love smelling the more masculine scents but don’t wear them much because I seem to like them better as an audience than to wear myself. I never know I liked fig until the wonderful lady at Fumerie suggested one last summer. It shows up in a few here. I have loved leather for a long time. Citrus is an easy like, always wish it had staying power.

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Keepers!

Fugit Amor – Jul et Mad, Spicy fig – only 3 stars in the newest edition of Perfumes: The Guide. I liked it more.
Nuda Veritas – Atelier Des Ors, Fresh – possible fig too
Cuir Sacre – Atelier Des Ors, Juniper, Cyprus, cedar, leather – this is four stars in my book.
Mars 1764 – Pozzo di Borgo, citrus and spice. Web site lists elemi which I had no idea about. I looked it up. It is a resin used in aroma therapy and the like. I am liking it.

Some general likes

24 October – Pozzo di Borggo, according to the web site for them it has grapefruit, mint, pear, currant, woody. I liked it but not very long lasting on me.
Tobac Tabou – Parfum de Empire. I am looking to find a tobacco scent like what my great uncle wore, but this one was nice too.

Not my cup of tea

Bombay Bling  – Neela Vermeire. I love the idea but too sweet for me and maybe a bit too gourmand.
Secrets du Paradis Rouge  – Jul et Mad, white flower  tends to be serious dislike for if I can spot it easily. In small amounts that can blend it is fine.
Rosso Epicureo – Jacques Fath, smelled like bubble gum when I first opened it!
Double Dare and Day for Night – Prada, liked them both but already had chosen some others to keep

Adding to the box

Jasmine et Cigarette – Etat Libre d’Orange, Foxglove – D.S & Durga, Aedes De Venustas – Eau de Parfume, Eau de Magnolia – Frederic Malle, Musc Ravageur – Frederic Malle, Essences Insensees – Diptyque

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