Ambrosia, April Aromatics Tempted Muse

With lilac in full bloom and chestnut trees blossoming all around you can really feel the spirit of spring. The season so far, as well as past winter have been very dry here but first strawberries start to appear on local bazaars, even though they’re more expensive than in 2014, due to the lack of rain. When it comes to perfume in spring I don’t know if you have noticed that too but this season offers a bounty of tuberose fragrances. Tanja Bohnig of April Aromatics also has composed a new perfume featuring this flower. After wearing it for a few times, I can share my impressions.

The perfume is named Tempted Muse and on my skin it immediately begins with a rich tuberose accord. I find it incredibly flowery and intense. Apart from feeling floral it almost feels buttery, it has this level of richness. Frangipani absolute and jasmine absolute highlight the narcotic features of white flowers. Right now the perfume smells slightly indolic on my skin with a distinctive smoky vibe that comes out of nowhere… The opening is a bit femme fatale if you ask me.

After a while the strength of white flowers drops and starts to harmonize with other notes. Those include rose (attar) that adds a nice red-pink shimmer to the composition. Giving Tempted Muse more time guides you to a very pretty tonka bean accord that has both spicy and creamy facets. Tanja enriched her new perfume with an awesome sandalwood note. It feels incredibly luxurious – it’s “substantially soft”, embracing and cuddly. Its texture is very creamy, even delicious.

As the time flies I can smell ylang-ylang. This tropical flower ideally fits into a creamy theme provided by Tempted Muse. My individual impression gave me a feeling here like I was smelling some coconut in a sweet form (think Raffaello!) – but there is not any coconut really, so it’s just a delusion created by ylang. New April Aromatics creation also features vanilla which has a nice, pudding-like sweetness. There is also some aniseed for a mild & muted spiciness.

After around 4,5 hours I smell a combination of fruity tones. The feeling given is not of fresh fruit but more like something that is not exactly a candied fruit and not a dried fruit either. I smell a bit of apricot, peach, plum. I sort of like the way this Tempted Muse evolves on skin. It started really big, bold and beautiful but as it changes over time it becomes more comfortable and easier to wear. From a more dramatic & theatrical thing it becomes more casual being.

To me this perfume is a challenge, as tuberose and jasmine have never been my favorites. Once in a while I would find an interesting perfume that would smell good on me and that would be featuring these flowers. In this case I can see myself wearing April Aromatics Tempted Muse once in a while. For a big occasion. Or if I wanted to dare the world to a challenge. This eau de parfum has a nice sillage and lasting power of around 7 hours. It’s available in 30ml bottle with clear crystals.

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Scarlet ink, Atelier des Ors Rose Omeyyade

Before my perfume trips I normally tend to do some sort of research on what to expect when I’m there. This inludes checking the venue area, the neighborhood of a place where I was supposed to stay and of course printing a list of all exhibitors participating in Esxence or Pitti Fragranze. Among the brands joining the fair I also create a mini lists of brands that are must-visits to me. For 2015 edition of Esxence Atelier des Ors was in my agenda. On the first day as I was walking down the hall I found their stand and it was free so I took it as the best opportunity to discover the line.

First glance at the fragrances offered under a seahorse logo might suggest an orientation towards Russia and Middle Eastern market. And that would be quite accurate. Atelier des Ors bottles, that have a sleek oval shape fit really well in hand. The glass has those small ridges carved into the surface and they are shaped like the beams of light. On the picture the effect is not visible but when you look at the bottle with your eyes, you notice that ridges scatter the light making the bottle somehow glow. Outer packaging, a brown box with golden arabesque-like print is very elegant too.

Moving on to the perfume, Rose Omeyyade is one out of five fragrances that mark a debut of Atelier des Ors on the market. I have to be honest with you that this was not my favorite from be brand but a very close runner-up. It just felt more suitable to write about this one first. Rose Omeyyade is a very oriental rose and you can smell it from the very begininng. The composition opens with a Damasc rose. Its rich and opulent aroma instantly transports you to the gardens of Middle East. Velvety petals colored in bloody scarlet shades feel very luxurious on the skin & at the same time the perfume feels really saturated, like you applied a scented oil, not a perfume.

After 10-15 minutes Rose Omeyyade begins to evolve and it does it really slowly. After that time I started to notice some gentle tingling that was gradually growing stronger until it reached a point when the piquancy became quite obvious, revealing an accord of pink pepper. Unlike black pepper which can be metallic, pink pepper feels softer but it’s still spicy and vibrant. Not to mention that it composes with dark rose really well. Just a little bit more into fragrance development and this Atelier des Ors creation reaches the softest stage. When raspberry joins the composition and you can smell this sweet and fruity sensation as you breathe the perfume in and out. It’s very tender.

But as I mentioned, this is where Rose Omeyyade is the weakest and after some time it regains the intensity of the opening stage. After around 60 minutes is when rose meets with patchouli and they decide to become a couple and go together from now on. I’m happy that this is an earthy patchouli with some woody elements. It adds so much depth and dimension to the composition. For a short time it even reminds me of Voleur de Roses from L’Artisan Parfumeur. Then an interesting caramelized facet appears. Initially I thought its a caramel note or maybe benzoin but after looking into structure of this perfume it turned out to be brown sugar.

It’s funny because most perfumes with a sugar (brown or white) accord have that specific vibe that instantly makes you think of crystal sugar. Here it doesn’t smell like crystal but more like it’s melted and covering the oriental rose and earthy patchouli notes of Rose Omeyyade. Real fun with this fragrance starts for me after 4 hours of wearing it. That is when drydown notes slowly start to come up and make the composition even more interesting. First of all there is some gaiac wood to add more substance to the perfume. But then… Then some real magic happens.

Atelier des Ors Rose Omeyyade develops a fantastic note of leather. It smells very realistic and is enhanced by woody and resinous elements. True elegance of this perfume hides exactly here, in this ideally balanced cuir note. It’s not overpowering and not too weak. It simply co-exists next to the magnificent scarlet rose which is still the main star of this fragrance. Leather in this perfume has a black color and it has a tanner workshop vibe. A bit raw on one side, incredibly soft on the other side. Its smell? Somewhere in between a stylish bag & shiny shoes.

Then there is just as nice sandalwood note appearing at the end of 6th hour. It’s solid wood but its been made smoother with creamy aspects that carry some sweetness of vanilla, though vanilla hasn’t been mentioned in the notes. Since Atelier des Ors line is veering towards Middle East a use of some oud was inevitable. But rose has just been treated with a drop or two, which makes it feel darker and more velvety. The finale of Rose Omeyyade is made of amber that is sensual and slightly powdery. It’s probably the most bright note here.

All in all it turned out that I had a good hunch about Atelier des Ors line. I had high expectations from the moment I learned about this brand and I have to say that they have been fully satisfied during my visit to the brand stand at Esxence. All 5 fragrances are really well made and with lots of care for small details too. The presentation is exquisite but what matters most is that the fragrances last for over 8 hours and have a really nice sillage. Rose Omeyyade is available as eau de parfum in 100 ml bottle that hides some gold flakes within. Perfumer who worked on the line is Marie Salamagne.

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