Golden Tutu, Les Parfums de Rosine Ballerina No.5

There are many thing that can inspire a perfumer to create. There are common themes like travelling, history, famous personas. There is also music but this one can apply to so many different genre. Not just music types as they are but also other things that directly connect to music. Theatre or opera are among ideas of some of the fragrances that are currently on the market. In case of Les Parfums de Rosine, their Ballerina line explores the art of ballet – synergy of music and dance, through scent. Newest addition to this range, Ballerina No.5 was inspired by La Bayadere (1877).

Ballerina No.5 begins with a pleasantly sweet juiciness of mandarin, which gives this perfume not only a citrusy sweetness but also a bit of tang. Orange blossom adds a beige swirl of floral nuances that make the scent more interesting and alive on the skin. After a couple of minutes a candied fruit facet emerges and I wonder if it’s the prickly pear listed as one of the top notes. Rose is very important for all Rosine fragrances and in Ballerina No.5 it plays a role of a leading dancer.

Rose petals in this perfume are inflected with shiny golden threads of gourmand. The rose itself is quite fragrant, aromatic & jammy. The smell of Ballerina No.5 is like a jam made by crushing fresh rose petals with sugar crystals for a very long time. The texture is a bit grainy but the smell itself is smooth. If you like fragrances like L’Artisan Safran Troublant, Lush Rose Jam or even to some extend Phi from Andy Tauer, you might notice a connection between them when it comes to rose.

ballerina

Heart of Ballerina No.5 still has a lot of plushy rose but candied fruitiness becomes much stronger at this point. My nose picks a particularly standing out, syrupy vibe of lychee – which gives a bit of a tropical vibe to this Rosine creation. Violet petals add a bit of a purple tinge to the scent, introducing more crisp and ozonic feel to the bouquet. The brand lists almond blossom – my only experience ever was with almond blossom face cream from Korres and it has a nice but specific smell, clean and bit aldehydic. Heliotrope gives a nice powdery sensation, with hints of tonka and almonds.

Gourmand element of this perfume smells like caramel in my opinion. It’s more liquid and viscous at first but later on it becomes more buttery & toffee-like. It’s an evident sweetness of Ballerina No.5 that makes it more adult and elegant. Benzoin adds a nice balsamic and resinous quality that also fits in the idea of toffee candy. Gaiac wood provides more substantivity to the perfume but also is responsible for giving some mysterious darkness. It’s a nice effect. Tonka makes the scent more velvety, patchouli and cedarwood make the scent deeper and more dimensional thanks to it.

Thanks to the vanillic, toffee undertone that slowly oozes from this perfume, Ballerina No.5 from Les Parfums de Rosine is more floriental than simply floral. I also liked the word ‘fleurmand’ Jessica used in her review. Perfumer Delphine Labeau created a fragrance that is feminine (it’s actually a bit hard to imagine a men wearing it) but it’s femininity is grown up. It represents a woman who knows what she wants and how to get it. It’s a nice choice if you crave something sweet.

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3 Fragrances from Noeme

With the number of new perfume releases that are being issued each year it’s quite easy to miss out on something, especially if it’s a lesser known brand. Sometimes I wonder how many gems have slipped away from me in that way, unsniffed. I probably would not have heard about Noeme if it wasn’t for my dear friends from Quality Missala. They added this house to their portfolio at the end of 2019 and they kindly sent me samples of all 5 compositions that make their current range.

atitlan

Atitlan opens with a creamy and kind of lactonic note of ylang-ylang. Right from the start this perfume emanates with a lot of warmth and happiness, bringing to mind memories of the last summer. After only a couple of minutes mimosa joins the composition adding a broad palette of impressions. It introduces the element of sweet pollen, of floral pom-poms in a yellow color and a gorgeous powdery feeling. I think Undina would enjoy this one a lot. A little bit later ambery tones add even more solar brightness to the scent. This helps mimosa to stand out in a gorgeous way in this perfume. This part lasts on the skin for some time and stays rather linear while it’s around. Then the drydown comes, bringing a fluffy softness of musk, a milk-flavoured vanilla that pairs well with mimosa. There are also some blond woods notes for more substantivity. Additional notes include patchouli and salicylate.

naica

Naica is more of a masculine scent if you ask me. This composition starts with a metallic sound of pink pepper, which has that interesting effect of vibrating spiciness. It is paired with the acidity of grapefruit but it mellows quickly, unleashing more zesty aspect of the peel and some juiciness of its yellow flesh. Interesting addition among the top notes is clove, which gives off a specific, warm spiciness. A bit like a gingerbread but it remains quite fresh. Heart of this composition is constructed around lavender. This one has a nice floral bouquet with nuances of herbal and green. Underneath there’s also a layer of geranium which adds a crispy and dewy back note. It’s also a bit minty. Cedarwood gives more manly vibe here as well. In the base there’s a beautiful and resinous accord of benzoin. Walking along it are oakmoss and patchouli. Both are a bit darker, chypre-like and adding more character.

divin-part

Among the three Noeme fragrances that I’m presenting in this post Divin Part would be the simplest and most minimalistic, but no less beautiful. Maybe for a minute or two there’s a glimpse of ylang-ylang in the opening but it’s so hard to notice that I can as well pretend it’s not there. On my skin it’s iris that plays a lead role of this scented performance. What melts my heart when I smell it is the fact that orris is present here in almost all of its forms of existence. At first it exudes a fatty, buttery smell which later on evolves, becomes damp & rooty – even having that wet concrete moment. It’s also powdery, in a more cosmetic way at first, then it’s more like talcum. It cam be also a bit carroty, finally there are floral bits that resemble violets, just more waxy & silky. The purpose of this perfume is fulfilled with white musks. Divin Part was meant to be a tour around orris accord. No other distractions.

All in all I’m glad I could try fragrances from Noeme. I haven’t seen them before at any of the perfume fairs so it’s quite unlikely I would have discovered this brand by myself. That’s why it’s good to have someone in the perfume world who can tell you that you should try this or that. I was wondering who’s a perfumer behind these fragrances. In several sources information was not disclosed but I finally found that it’s Majda Bekkali (who also has her own brand). Have you ever heard of Noeme before? Which of the three above could become your favourite?

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