Our bare souls, Atelier des Ors Nuda Veritas

Not only as a humanity but also as individuals we have the right & privilege to experience happiness in our lives. But where does one find it? This quest – the search for happiness became the central theme for new White Collection from Atelier des Ors. Influenced also by Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze each of 3 new fragrances interprets a different part of this 34 meter long work of art in a unique way. And since Beethoven’s 9th symphony was an inspiration to create this frieze we have a real synesthesia of art, music and perfumery here. Today I present to you Nuda Veritas, which means ‘naked truth’ in latin. Could it be that true happiness lies in having nothing to hide?

veritas.jpg

Nuda Veritas shows its presence in a very quiet and peaceful manner. At first I can smell some bergamot and it’s combining zesty values of its aromatic rind with sour-juicy pulp. Even though the opening is calm it has some brisk to it & I immediately become more energetic and awake after smelling this perfume. Just a few minutes later orange blossom lifts up from my skin and reaches the nose. The aroma it spreads around is incredibly fresh and crispy. The note feels surprisingly cold but in a fascinating way – it’s like the smell of the air at the break of dawn, when it’s still cool but also about to start getting warmer in a few moments. My mornings could smell like that everyday.

After some time orange blossom evolves on my skin so that it actually resembles neroli. It becomes more saturated compared to when I noticed it first and also gets more soapy and citrusy with an obvious orange hue. When I inhale it with my eyes closed so that I can focus more I also get a faint yet pleasant pear back note. There’s also a fine-smelling dewiness in Nuda Veritas that comes from Transluzone, a molecule from Firmenich that has an aquatic scent. It definitely doesn’t remind me of calone or any other nasty synthetic. It’s like a gentle wind that is a little bit moist. It’s another phase of the day when the sun is waking up and warming the ground, everything wakes up.

nuda-veritas-marble

As I go through the day new Atelier des Ors Nuda Veritas evolves too. It eventually reaches notes that create heart of the composition. At this point it becomes more floral but it still maintains a high level of freshness. There are 2 types of jasmine featured in this fragrance. First one is jasmine sambac and second one is an absolute from china. You all know I’m not into this particular floral note but oh man, it does smell so good here. It smells as if someone stripped it off all the indolic & animalic elements. In the end what’s left is a flower with white petals. The fragrance is so pretty and so pure that I just don’t want to stop smelling it. Who knew jasmine could be rendered in such a pretty and lovable way.

Next to this gorgeous jasmine there’s also some osmanthus. The latter one in a harmonious way adds a nice tea vibe to Nuda Veritas. It’s a bit apricoty too. Tiare flower on the other hand makes the whole bouquet more lush and creamy but it’s not overwhelming and not turning the perfume into something tropical. All these things happen over the course of a few hours so I can say that this fragrance is pretty entertaining. In the drydown there’s tagetes which is also a flower but I’m not sure if it’s really valued for its scent. Here it’s a popular flower used to decorate balconies and terraces.

nuda-veritas-with-box

The very drydown of Nuda Veritas gives me the impression of a day filled with the sun which I truly like because it means this perfume is like a travel from the dawn to a glorious day. Ambroxan provides a lot of warmth to the fragrance and as I just mentioned it feels like rays of the sun warming up your face. Oakmoss is a nice addition to the blend – it introduces a shrub-like aromatic facet that is a little bit darker than the rest of the perfume. It’s like a shade from the tree (it smells a tad woody too) with a little chypre flavor. Hint of musk provides more softness and a blur so that the notes become more united. Supposedly there’s patchouli too in this perfume but I didn’t smell it.

Nuda Veritas, a new proposal from Atelier des Ors and 1 of the 3 fragrances that create brand’s White Collection is an absolute winner for me. It provides freshness with great longevity and complexity. It’s an ideal option to wear in Spring but I believe it might be even more pleasing in the Summer. Perfumer Marie Salamagne created a beautiful fragrance for the brand of Jean-Philippe Clermont. I’m pleased to have my own bottle of it in my collection. Nuda Veritas comes in a 100 ml bottle of eau de parfum. It’s still the same flacon with ray-like ribs on the back side. However the cap, name plate and a box became white to distinguish this new trio from earlier offerings.

Advertisements
Tagged , , , ,

Golden impressions of Esxence 2018 – day 3

Weekends at Esxence are always a bit hectic since it becomes open to the public, meaning anyone interested can enter. And believe me, Italians do come to smell some perfume. They often come as full families, even with little babies or with dogs (I’m sure their sense of smell goes crazy there!) For that reason I usually try to do my most important visits on Thursday or Friday. Then on Saturday I can smell things more casually and with less pressure. It usually works well if I do it like that.

I started the third day at Esxence from a visit in a conference room where one could listen to an interview with Michael Edwards first thing in the morning. I think he’s such an iconic person in a perfume industry that I just wouldn’t forgive myself if I didn’t attend it. Listening to how Mr Edwards started from being responsible for deodorant campaigns and how he got to creating The Fragrances of the World. Would you believe it all began as a simple and thin guide for fragrance associates in department stores? Nowadays it’s sort of a bible that collects data of thousands of fragrances.

After that I visited a stand of Extrait d’Atelier, an Italian brand owned by Chiara Ronzani. The brand interprets work of different artisans into fragrances and this spring they have launched a 4th composition dedicated to Maitre Ceramiste, a master of ceramics. The perfume is meant to evoke a workshop filled with the smell of clay and plaster, moist air and a bunch of tools used to carve the details. This fragrance masterfully combines spicy pink pepper and metallic notes, the smell of clay entwined with iris and incense with a woody base with oakmoss and amber. Review will come later.

Asian market is more and more open for the offerings of niche perfumery and in effect one of the trends is creating lighter, more wearable and inoffensive scents that would appeal to people from Japan or China. No surprise Miya Shinma appeared at Esxence with a bunch of light and airy fragrances. I especially liked Ruri which means blue in the old Japanese. I also admired Kimono Sakura, a blend of rose and peony to remind cherry blossom. That one was very harmonious.

Saturday was a day of talks and conferences for me as there were 3 in total that I wanted to attend. Second one that day was titled ‘100 years of chypre‘ and as you might guess it was an olfactory travel through the history of this classy perfume family. This conference was organized by Osmotheque. It was a lovely lesson starting from old, classic chypres and finishing at modern ones. I only regret that the speaker was using french, since I’m still a long way from being fluent. Also blotters were not distributed well so I didn’t receive a whole bunch of fragrances to smell.

At the lunch time I went outside to have a meeting with UNUM. This year they decided to be available at a private suite in a nearby appartment rather than inside Esxence. From what I’ve been told they are getting prepared to make some changes to their packaging. Also another perfume will be launched by the brand, it’s expected to arrive at Pitti. For now I can only say that inspiration for the fragrance was a scene from a movie. And it fits well the style of Filippo Sorcinelli work.
Nicolai was presenting their new scent – Cap Neroli, a beautiful and summery scent of orange blossoms drenched in the sunlight. I’m sure I’ll enjoy wearing it when it gets a little bit warmer.

Once I was back at Esxence venue I spent a couple of minutes discovering the line of Sylvaine Delacourte. I’ve been familiar with the name but never tried fragrances from this lady. She dedicated her first collection to musk and she just launched a new collection focused on vanilla. There are 5 different vanilla fragrances in it but one that seemed most interesting to me was named Valkyrie.
Jovoy also had a novelty at their stand and it was causing quite a lot of buzz between perfume enthusiasts. The new fragrance bears a name Remember Me. This new composition is signed by Cecile Zarokian. It’s her 2nd creation for the brand and it’s a very lush bouquet of frangipani.

My last discovery included smelling of 4 fragrances by Les Bains Guerbois. It’s an old bath house that nowadays works as a hotel in Paris. They decided to revive the heritage of colognes that were using during the times when the bath house was operating. I only tried them briefly on mouilettes so another test – this time on skin will happen in due course.
Final conference titled ‘2D perfumery: how Instagran culture is affecting fragrance design‘ was a fun thing to listen to. Panelists such as Sarah Baker, perfumer Alex Lee & Andy Tauer presented their point of view regarding how influential Instagram can be.

As you’ve probably noticed from the picture galleries I kept coming back to smell Neela Vermeire’s Niral every day! It was definitely my favorite fragrance at the fair this year… and that was it! Saturday came to the end and so did my visit in Milan. Same evening there was also an Esxence party but because my flight back to Poland was really early on Sunday and also because I didn’t get the invitation (and had no clothes to match a theme) I decided to skip it. I only treated myself to a great dinner in the evening. Some pasta, prosecco and a desert to say bye-bye to Italy for a while.

***

A final word from me. As good as the whole 10th edition of Esxence might’ve looked like in my report I have to admit that I was quite disappointed this time. New releases from brands that exist for a couple of years now were really good but the offerings from newly created brands that just debuted on the market were plain boring. Most of the stuff smelled repetitive and similar to some other perfume created some years ago. Are they scared of being innovative? To make something that’ll shake the ground? Maybe they play safe now but will improve and open their minds later… I don’t know. I just wanted you to know how I felt and why there weren’t as many photos as usual.

Tagged , , , , , , , , , ,
Advertisements