Category Archives: perfume review

Spring Forward, Ormaie Les Brumes

I have mixed feelings now. In the current situation around the world, with the increasing number of people affected by Covid-19 virus and more restrictions being put on citizens (in Poland some new ones were added yesterday) there are more important things than perfume. It just doesn’t spark so much joy temporarily. But then again in those hard times when social interactions are limited we need something to keep up the good spirit. Perfume can’t save the world but it can save your own sanity right now. So I have another fragrance from Ormaie I want to talk about today.

Les Brumes (Eng. mists) is a shy fragrance for which the play of subtleties is a key to appreciation. When the first droplets of a fragrant liquid touch your skin, it’s like delicate wake up call, like the ray of a morning sunlight that somehow sneaked into your bedroom through the blinds. Calm but vibrant smell of lemon enters your nostrils with certain laziness. It’s an energizing scent but it’s not straight in your face. Shortly mandarin and bergamot join the composition and since in both cases the perfumer accentuated their juicy facets, the perfume becomes a truly mouth-watering cocktail.

What really gets my attention in this citrus trio of Ormaie Les Brumes is the fact that the opening is characterized by an extraordinary purity. That lemon, lime and mandarin smell really clean, transparent, with absolutely nothing getting in the way of enjoying their aromas. Later on ginger appears in this concoction and adds a little bit of that specific, lemon-flavoured piquancy. This effect of spiciness only makes the citrus part more pretty. After a while citric notes start to dissipate – that’s when the scent starts to make some gentle shifts. Those subtle changes make the scent alive.

les-brumes-ormaie

Juiciness subsides and in its place some slightly herbaceous tones appear. There is a hint of sage which has a slightly green, sappy scent with a gently mentholy undertone which is almost ‘invisible’ to the nose. Cardamom also made its way to the heart of the composition but in my case it doesn’t seem to make any serious statement. Sage and the remaining citrus whispers still get most of my attention. I was surprised to see that Les Brumes lists jasmine and tuberose. Yes, I did notice some floral tones lifting up from the top of my wrist but it was more of an abstract accord, nothing specific.

Neither tuberose nor jasmine are my BFFs so let me tell you I didn’t smell anything indolic that would give me an idea that there’s one of those flowers in this very fragrance. Flowery tones, whatever they are, give Les Brumes a thread of plant-derived sweetness. When the base notes come to the foreground the perfume doesn’t lose any of its lightness and airiness. Usually more hefty notes like cedarwood, sandalwood or vetiver are carefully woven into this fragrance. They provide longevity (mind that hours later I can still smell some citrus from the top) and add depth.

Normally I don’t like press materials written by the brands because they are full of unnecessary blabber that doesn’t tell you much about the perfume itself. But in case of Ormaie and Les Brumes, the description is simply spot on. This fragrance is a vision of memories of a morning among citrus trees. It’s a vision of a magical moment when the morning fog vanishes, revealing a citrus orchard and the forests that surround it. It’s a beautiful picture and the perfume really reflects that. Should you search for an extraordinary citrus, this should be one of your top contenders.

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In Your Eyes, Olfactive Studio Iris Shot

I love how a simple photograph can bring back all the memories and remind us of places we’ve visited less or more recently. I kind of regret that in the digitalized world we have less and less printed photos – instead we keep them on our computers or phones. But if one of these were to crash, we could simply lose all these pictures in an instant. I like how Olfactive Studio captures the mood of the ‘random’ photos in a perfume. Last year in Milan there was a preview of something exciting which is now seeing the light of the day. It was well worth the wait to tell you about it.

Iris Shot begins with a sparkling aroma of pink pepper. It creates a fizzy kind of spiciness that hits the nose with a mild wave of scent that is built of several layers. One is more spicy, one is slightly dry & earthy while another one has a warming and kind of cuddly feel to it. After several minutes the temperature of this perfume rises when cardamom joins the composition. It’s a different kind of spicy note which gives a more aromatic, crunchy facet with a refined, elegant depth. It also reminds me a bit of the smell of papyrus or an old book. I quite like the way it opens and leads further.

Spicy nuances of Olfactive Studio Iris Shot aren’t in the centre of attention all the time. After 20-30 minutes they start to subside, moving to the background and becoming fainter. That’s when iris aldehyde gets prominent on the skin. Iris aldehyde is a common name for 2-Nonenal (given to it by Givaudan) and is a fragrant molecule of a fatty, powdery smell of iris, with hints of green notes and cucumber. It’s true that thanks to it Iris Shot becomes buttery and super smooth. It develops that delightful sensation of something that melts on top of your skin and creates a silky cocoon.

iris-shot

At the top of the composition there’s also a little bit of freshness – blackcurrant bud adds a facet of juicy green note with element of acidic, ripe berries. But that lasts only for a moment until Iris Shot turns more dense and substantive. Iris concrete, the most precious substance obtained from orris root, gives the new Olfactive Studio composition an extraordinary richness. It’s creamy, buttery, even waxy at times. This perfume is loaded with irones (main constituent of iris & violet smell). I also detected a tiny bit of root and ash in this phase. It’s pure heaven for those who love iris!

Going further Iris Shot from Olfactive Studio¬†develops a sweet, custardy scent that ventures somewhere towards gourmand registers but it’s not quite there yet. Almond note blends in with iris in a seemless way adding a bittersweet, nutty flavor to the fragrance. This action builds up the complexity of the scent and make it more intricate. In my opinion what almond does to Iris Shot is that it amplifies the creaminess of iris while making it more flavorful. Additionally carrot seed introduces a more vegetal facet that still goes well with the iris theme. It adds a bit of lightness too.

At the bottom of the composition lies a solid foundation for Olfactive Studio Iris Shot. The base is composed Virginia cedarwood which makes for a bulky woody note to fix the scent on the skin for longer. Vetiver from Haiti adds an earthy and rooty kind of woodiness. There’s a bit of aromatic notes in there that are reminiscent of grass and warm hay. Ambroxan gives a nice ambery finishing touch to this scent. Dominique Ropion did an excellent job for Celine Verleure’s brand. It surely is a must try for iris lovers. The 100 ml bottle is wrapped in brown leather and there are copper details

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