Category Archives: perfume review

Romantic retreat, Nishane Ambra Calabria

Citrus is probably the most obvious and most common perfume choice for the summer. No surprise, since in the hot weather you want something not overwhelming and fresh rather than sticky and heavy. Even among citrus notes there are some that are more famed than others, like lemon from Amalfi or bergamot from Calabria. Recently I stumbled upon an interesting rendition of the latter one done by Nishane. I liked it a lot, therefore decided to share my impressions with you.

ambra calabria

Opening of this fragrance named Ambra Calabria has a certain tang to it. the citric & juicy aroma of bergamot is obvious and straightforward. It’s like a splash when a slice of lemon takes a dive into a glass of water. Interestingly bergamot is not really cold here almost like hidden in the shade. Actual shade appears after a few minutes. There’s a green, slightly sappy and resinous smell of galbanum as well as the green, rustling leafage. Described by the brand as green leaves, this note effuses a blend of sunny warmth and verdant aromas that bring to mind the smell of mediterranean grove.

Heart of the composition features a little bit of jasmine. It’s presented in a very light way – it doesn’t carry much weight. Its airy floral tones quite remind me of California Reverie, a perfume from Van Cleef & Arpels. this one and Ambra Calabria share some similarities when it comes to jasmine. Furthermore there is a bunch of coriander that was used in this fragrance. Its spiciness feels reserved and cooler than it usually does, almost as if it was in some sort of chillout mood. But it introduces that characteristic dryness, like a paper. It blends with jasmine nicely. It smells of relax.

The most interesting twist in Nishane Ambra Calabria hides within its drydown. Probably nobody would expect an amber note to be featured in this sort of perfume. Yet its there, soft like a giant pouf at the terrace. It also surrounds the wearer with a gentle warmth – it’s the kind of warmth that naturally emanates from your skin or a delicate sea breeze just before the sunset. Vanilla and musk melt with skin making it smell very appetizing, not to mention that the aspect of this concoction is very sensual. It’s like a seductive invitation to get closer to the person & to cuddle with them.

ambra-calabria-collage

Ambra Calabria is pretty unusual take on summery citrus, don’t you think? It’s also hard to classify. I looked up at Fragrantica where it is put into aromatic spicy group, while on Parfumo they group it with other fresh-citrusy compositions. No matter how you classify it, this Nishane smells good. As for an extrait it has surprisingly low sillage – you’ll have to smell your wrist close to the nose to recognize it, but it will stay on skin for most of the day. The perfume was developed by perfumer Jorge Lee and it was released in 2014. On the market you can find it in 50 ml bottles.

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American juicy, Atelier Cologne Clémentine California

Traveling is a perfect way of broadening your horizons. And I love to travel as for me it’s a great way to learn about new cultures or foreign cuisine. It’s even better if you like sightseeing just like I do. Over the last 2 summers I spent my vacations by wandering around the cities that were completely new to me. Summer in the city is a very specific way of spending your holidays. When you walk around all day long you’re bound to get tired plus if you’re going to warm places you’ll get uneven tan because of your t-shirt. There are places that are yet too far away and too pricy for me to visit, so I appreciate any perfume that could give me the idea of visiting a distant country.

clementine-california-petit

With new Atelier Cologne Clémentine California I can go on imaginary trip to the United States. For me it’s a travel all across the Pacific Ocean but on this scented journey I don’t even need a visa (yes, Poland still requires visas). First serving of the latest cologne absolue brings a big platter of citrus. It’s dominated by a whole bunch of clementines that form a lovely pyramid. They diffuse a luscious aroma that made my mouth water in a blink of an eye. Clementine has a delicate sweetness of a pulp that is entwined with tart scent of the rind. It’s very fresh and realistic.

Additionally the juicy part of Clémentine California is boosted with mandarin to ensure even bigger explosion of citrus freshness. I find this combination to be very fruity. It doesn’t smell just like clementine with mandarin. I perceive is as a big fruity mixture. And it’s so natural that it gives an impression of a freshly made fruit salad or a smoothie. My closest comparison would be a multivitamin juice. Hint of juniper berry introduces a metallic element to the blend, so that the perfume is slightly reminiscent of gin & tonic. (which served as theme for Cedrat Enivrant)

clementine-california-visuel

Heart of the composition is much warmer than its top notes but I have to admit that clementines smelled surprisingly warm in a sunny way. Moving on a green, aromatic hue starts to surround Clémentine California. Basil adds a nice summer garden vibe to the scent. Star anise and pepper add a low level of spiciness that beautifully blends with the aroma of citrus accords. The latter is actually a tad metallic too which is a nice corresponding mark to juniper that appeared a bit earlier.

clementine-california-bottle

New Atelier Cologne is a lasting composition. For the next couple of hours I could smell citrus notes, green notes and warm spicy notes. It felt as if they were enjoying a little merry-go-round as specific accords kept fading away and then re-appearing. After that time a solid, yet quiet base arrives. In it, a woody, slightly earthy vetiver is blended with dry, sort of ascetic sandalwood. A bit of cypress with its “oily” verdancy brough an interesting twist to Clémentine California drydown. I love the optimism that flows out of this juicy composition.

If you like the maison of Atelier Cologne you’ll remember that each of their creation has a short story as a company & that it’s usually a story of an encounter between a man and a woman. This time it’s not any different. In case of Clémentine California the story goes like this:

“It was the warmest summer on record and the mood was equally intense at the film studios. He had been searching for her for months, growing tired of the perfect actress-type. About to give up, the moment came when it all changed. There she was at the opposite end of the counter; the woman he had been dreaming of. Her natural beauty and distinct voice would for sure steal the scene. He now had to convince her to change the course of her life… ”

Atelier Cologne Clémentine California with its 15% oil concentration qualifies as pure perfume. And you can feel it in the lasting power. Despite the fact that its whispering quietly, it lingers on skin for a really long time. Don’t we know that citrus notes are so fleeting, so a delicate scent that lasts is actually a positive thing in this case. This cologne absolue is available in 30, 100 and 200 ml formats. Technically it was released in 2016 but it appeared in wider distribution in early 2017. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to find any info about who’s a perfumer. Will update when possible.

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