Category Archives: perfume review

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 42

I can’t believe that last time I posted mini reviews was in July! Let’s do something about it.

joloves-flowershop

No. 42 The Flower Shop by Jo Loves… opens with a green transparency that becomes more leafy and crunchy after a few minutes. There’s also a bit of a sweeter citrus vibe to it. It doesn’t take long until the perfume releases a large portion of lily of the valley note. It’s pretty much out there but at the same time it feels more green than floral to my nose. Floral part arrives later and it’s rather hard to identify. The brand lists peony, narcissus, freesia, jasmine among the notes. Yet muguet is the one that steps to the front for me. Cloud of white musk make the perfume feel clean, almost sterile. Apparently No. 42 The Flower Shop also features moss and patchouli. I didn’t notice, so probably it’s just modern fractions that have nothing to do with a real thing. This Jo Loves… smells like entering a flower shop. It’s cool, floral and has that similar scent to the spray used by florists to add shine to the leaves they use in bouquets.

tsarina

Ormonde Jayne Tsarina remains completely scentless on my skin for a few couple of minutes. When it finally reveals its presence it almost skips all of the top notes. I only get a hint of coriander spiciness combined with a tender juiciness of mandarin. Then it immediately becomes suede-y but in austere, ascetic way rather than fuzzy & warm. It’s blended with some floral notes, with a delicate veil of powdery iris. It quickly evolves into more smoky being. Labdanum and it’s dark, resinous facets have been blended with rugged woods: sandalwood & cedarwood. There is also vanilla that darkens the composition rather than brightening it. All is wrapped with musk. First moment I tried Tsarina I knew this is not a perfume for me. It smells so synthetic, so artificial that it’s hard to stand. Perfumer Geza Shoen certainly used a lot of his beloved Iso-E Super. I would never pay the amount of money OJ is asking for this fragrance.

zenne

Zenne is a part of Shadow Play trilogy that Nishane launched in Q1 of 2017. It opens with an uplifting blackcurrant note that feels tart and not overly sweet. It’s coupled with rhubarb that makes it feel more crispy, green and fruity. At the same time there’s a grapefruit element that adds some sour juiciness to the blend. In fact when I smell the top notes combined I almost feel as if I was smelling lychee. Heart of Zenne is built around Turkish rose, but it’s not as rich or prominent as you’d expect. It somehow loses in a fight with fruity top notes. Rose feels muted, it’s a layer underneath blackcurrant and rhubarb. Gardenia adds some white flower brightness making the perfume feel more airy. Sandalwood is barely noticeable on my skin. It’s rather smooth and it doesn’t make the perfume feel more solid. Drydown has a lot of vanilla that sweetens the blend quite a lot, so that on me it smells almost like a candy. Ambergris and musk add some warmth and depth. It’s delicate, feminine and rather on innocent side. If you like fruity florals, you can give it a try.

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Heart of serenity, La Parfumerie Moderne Belles Rives

While traveling and discovering new places around the world there are many ways of accommodation. You can rent full appartments, stay with local people via Airbnb, use cheap hostels or top class hotels. La Parfumerie Moderne tells stories inspired by luxurious hotels and their history, which is not surprising knowing that Philippe Neirinck, the founder, comes from a family of hoteliers. New launch takes us to Beau Rivage Palace hotel in Lausanne, a place where Albert Cohen wrote Belle du Seigneur. The perfume reflects a silent serenity of the lake of Geneva.

Belles Rives starts with a bergamot essence that is like trying to capture a thunderbolt in a frame of a photograph, it’s so hard to notice. It appears as a zesty flash that is already gone the next time you try to smell it. Subsequently the perfume reveals a magnificent iris accord. The moment bergamot is gone I begin to smell something deliciously buttery. Iris unveils boldly yet gracefully. Texture it provides is very satisfying and it evolves into a multi-dimensional accord. Buttery facet is very rich, you can tell that it’s rich in irone – fragrant molecules responsible for the smell of violet and iris.

This buttered Florentine iris gradually evolves into something even more substantive. It blends with a hint of myrrh. Because of that it becomes more resinous. Splendid thing is that myrrh makes the iris smell even better! It accentuated its best values without making it too heavy or cloying. Plus in the next step there’s also some frankincense that guarantees the balance of notes in Belles Rives in some way. After a while I noticed an apricot-like facet appearing in the 2nd plan of this fragrance. From now on the perfume gets only more and more interesting & my level of attraction rises.

belles-rives

Apricot sensation becomes a tad more floral after 15 minutes, proving that it was actually osmanthus that created such impression. I truly love osmanthus note for the multiple facets it has. Speaking of which, further into Belles Rives development it begins to smell like a suede. When combined with iris it creates a beautiful fuzzy accord that feels elegant & sophisticated, yet not old-fashioned. It feels warm and embracing, like a blanket. Ideal for a gloomy days of autumn or winter. At some point iris loses a bit of its presence so that other notes can be perceived. It evolves beautifully.

One of them is sambac jasmine. White flower aura it introduces is gently and light as a feather. It really feels like a bunch of petals resting on a plush cushion scented with iris and apricoty-suedy osmanthus. It feels glamorous, maybe a little bit retro at this point but I feel totally attracted to Belles Rives. This quality of iris is like a magnet to me. Drydown reveals a hefty dose of cedar from Texas. Its dryness make it feel a little bit more masculine. Vetiver adds a little bit of earthy rootiness. Newest La Parfumerie Moderne also contains Cosmone®, a powdery & musky molecule from Givaudan.

From the words I’ve written above you can easily tell that Belles Rives from La Parfumerie Moderne is a love for me. This perfume was one of my top things that I sampled during Pitti Fragranze. It’s also one of the most wonderful iris fragrances I’ve smelled so far. I definitely want to add it to my collection. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato worked for over 2 years to master this composition – he nailed it perfectly. Made in eau de parfum concentration it lasts throughout the day and has a nice sillage. Belles Rives comes in a simple 100 ml bottle made of dark green glass. You’ll love it! I know I do!

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