Author Archives: lucasai

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 42

I can’t believe that last time I posted mini reviews was in July! Let’s do something about it.


No. 42 The Flower Shop by Jo Loves… opens with a green transparency that becomes more leafy and crunchy after a few minutes. There’s also a bit of a sweeter citrus vibe to it. It doesn’t take long until the perfume releases a large portion of lily of the valley note. It’s pretty much out there but at the same time it feels more green than floral to my nose. Floral part arrives later and it’s rather hard to identify. The brand lists peony, narcissus, freesia, jasmine among the notes. Yet muguet is the one that steps to the front for me. Cloud of white musk make the perfume feel clean, almost sterile. Apparently No. 42 The Flower Shop also features moss and patchouli. I didn’t notice, so probably it’s just modern fractions that have nothing to do with a real thing. This Jo Loves… smells like entering a flower shop. It’s cool, floral and has that similar scent to the spray used by florists to add shine to the leaves they use in bouquets.


Ormonde Jayne Tsarina remains completely scentless on my skin for a few couple of minutes. When it finally reveals its presence it almost skips all of the top notes. I only get a hint of coriander spiciness combined with a tender juiciness of mandarin. Then it immediately becomes suede-y but in austere, ascetic way rather than fuzzy & warm. It’s blended with some floral notes, with a delicate veil of powdery iris. It quickly evolves into more smoky being. Labdanum and it’s dark, resinous facets have been blended with rugged woods: sandalwood & cedarwood. There is also vanilla that darkens the composition rather than brightening it. All is wrapped with musk. First moment I tried Tsarina I knew this is not a perfume for me. It smells so synthetic, so artificial that it’s hard to stand. Perfumer Geza Shoen certainly used a lot of his beloved Iso-E Super. I would never pay the amount of money OJ is asking for this fragrance.


Zenne is a part of Shadow Play trilogy that Nishane launched in Q1 of 2017. It opens with an uplifting blackcurrant note that feels tart and not overly sweet. It’s coupled with rhubarb that makes it feel more crispy, green and fruity. At the same time there’s a grapefruit element that adds some sour juiciness to the blend. In fact when I smell the top notes combined I almost feel as if I was smelling lychee. Heart of Zenne is built around Turkish rose, but it’s not as rich or prominent as you’d expect. It somehow loses in a fight with fruity top notes. Rose feels muted, it’s a layer underneath blackcurrant and rhubarb. Gardenia adds some white flower brightness making the perfume feel more airy. Sandalwood is barely noticeable on my skin. It’s rather smooth and it doesn’t make the perfume feel more solid. Drydown has a lot of vanilla that sweetens the blend quite a lot, so that on me it smells almost like a candy. Ambergris and musk add some warmth and depth. It’s delicate, feminine and rather on innocent side. If you like fruity florals, you can give it a try.

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Weekend poll – snap out of it


We all know that taste is nothing constant throughout entire life. Different situations and events shape us, just like an artist shapes a piece of clay, giving it a new form and application. There are also temporary fashions that we like to follow. We change. The world changes. So do our likes and dislikes. On different stages of life we like different colors, different food or… a perfume.

That’s why I would like to ask you today if there’s any perfume that you stopped enjoying through the course of you life as a conscious perfumista? A perfume that you couldn’t wear anymore, that you snapped out of?

In my case such thing happened with Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee. That was my first bottle of a niche perfume and I didn’t really know what I liked then. After some time of having it I noticed that I don’t reach for it at all & when I did, I didn’t feel any pleasure while wearing it. In fact it was annoying and my nose kept reminding me of that way too often. So I made a decision for us to part & it went to a new (and hopefully) loving home. I snapped out of one more perfume but because I love the brand I’m not going to name it. Did this ever happen to you? Was there any particular reason? Do tell!

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