Author Archives: lucasai

Dog days, Teresa Helbig A Bulldog in the Atelier

As it turns out people in Perfumeland often happen to be animal lovers. Doesn’t really matter if you’re a cat person, a dog person or if you prefer a different, more exotic animal. Love for our pets is all the same & is equally important. Some even get inspired by their little friends. For instance Teresa Helbig, a spanish designer based in Barcelona. In her atelier she always has her bulldog assist her. As press release says it’s ‘a silent yet attentive witness to the atelier life.’

First whiff of A Bulldog in the Atelier brings a gently herbal aroma of Roman chamomile but it’s not just a simple note. It’s quite a complex accord that very quickly becomes caramelized and crunchy at the same time. Kind of like caramel sprinkles used as dessert topping. Maybe a few minutes later I get something nutty from it that reminds me of almond. This almondy aroma is toasty and warm but there’s also some creaminess like a heliotrope in its surroundings. Then it develops a warm spiciness that blends coriander with pepper. It adds a nice accent to this pretty opening.

Top notes mingle on my skin for around 20-30 minutes and then heart notes slowly come up, emerging from the deeper parts of the fragrance. I smell quite a hefty dose of vetiver – it smells woody in a dry manner but geranium note that appears shortly after make it smell more crisp & green, with an herbal rosy backnote to it. It even becomes slightly exotic in my opinion & there’s something there that makes me think of upcoming Christmas. Maybe it’s a nutmeg that is also a part of gingerbread spice mix. A Bulldog in the Atelier has a yummy warmth that suits current season.

teresa-helbig-bulldog

For the next couple of hours the perfume would slightly change on my skin, maintaining its warmth while proportions of different ingredients would change. Some moment I smell more vetiver, the other one it’s more spices. Afterwards this solid and substantive sandalwood base accord appears. Of course it’s woody but it’s somehow undecided if it wants to go in more smooth & creamy direction or the very opposite of it. It’s in between, combining smoothness and dryness. Vanilla adds a noticeable brightness to the blend while benzoin introduces a balmy facet that reflects the light.

Light that hides within Teresa Helbig fragrance scatters like rays on a sequins fabric – elegantly and with grace. The drydown of her A Bulldog in the Atelier has a whole bunch of musk. It appears as a multi-faceted note here as it brings something white & fluffy on one side, then there’s something mineral, almost salty & then again there’s a big part of it that is sensual and carnal. There’s also patchouli listed but I didn’t smell it straight. Actually I have to admit that to some extend this perfume reminds me of Guerlain Shalimar. They share similar tenderness despite being built differently.

All in all I find A Bulldog in the Atelier to be a nice perfume. It’s warmth, mellow character and level of complexity provide lots of changes throughout a daily wearing. Plus it’s very suitable for current season of Winter that is almost here. This perfume for Teresa Helbig was designed by perfumer Shyamala Maisondieu. Its longevity is good while sillage  stays closer to the skin. Concentration of this composition is at eau de parfum level. The only available size is 100 ml. Did any of you had a chance to try this line? Or maybe some of you was familiar with this fashion designer before?

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Couple of scented ideas for Christmas

I’ll be away for the weekend but I prepared a few Christmas gift ideas that might interest you.

feu-fertile

If you’re a fan of dark and gothic style that is presented by Italian brand UNUM you might be interested in trying FEU_FERTILE, their brand new triptique of scented candles. “Light is our turmoil, it becomes energy carrying our internal substance. It is the flame swollen with our spirit, flexing but never losing its orientation to the sky. […] We look for the light until we blind our eyes, almost begging it to speak, in order to quiet the lack and sculpt our dreams.” Available in LAVS (wood monolith), Opus 1144 (bio cement monolith) and Ennui Noir (chipboard monolith). A 190 gram candle will provide around 50 hours of warmly flickering delight. Another novelty from the brand are incense resin stones for burning at home (set contains styrax, benzoin & dragon’s blood stones).

aftelier-holiday

Some Aftelier specials for Christmas this year include face & body balm as well as Bergamoss in 9 ml EdP format plus Parfum de Maroc, also in 9 ml EdP. Face & body balms are based on beeswax. Rose variant contains Turkish rose absolute, Bulgarian rose wax, squalane & sea buckthorn oil while Frankincense one is made of 2 different frankincense oleoresins and organic frankincense CO2 extract. Bergamoss in EdP is a re-issue of previous limited edition but Parfum de Maroc sounds really mesmerizing, with its notes of saffron, galangal, Turkish rose, nutmeg, cardamom and myrrh. 15 ml balms retail for $35 while eau de parfums are priced at $60. I actually want to try them all!

le-labo

Dear woman, please take care of your man’s face because they often forget to to that themselves. To do that, a new men’s grooming line from Le Labo comes in handy. As per brand materials: “An ode to old-world, traditional Americana barbershops. Modern textures with a retro feel”. Black packaging with golden letters look very cool. Line includes shaving cream, after shave balm, face lotion, beard oil, face bronzer and styling concret. Prices vary from $32 to $60.

aromatherapy-associates

From Aromatherapy Associates, Precious De-Stress Time – “Discover the magnificent benefits of Aromatherapy Associates’ calming Bath and Shower Oil in this indulgent Christmas kit, which contains one bottle of their signature De-Stress Muscle Bath & Shower Oil and one branded bauble for your tree. Enriched with the warming powers of Rosemary, Black Pepper, Lavender and Ginger, this Christmas set makes the perfect gift for a loved one who needs a moment of relaxation to unwind and de-stress from busy life.” Sounds like a perfect stocking stuffer and it only costs $12.

pendant

Jaroma (this brand’s name combines words jewellery & aroma) offers an aromatherapy pendant. It’s a locket that can house a small felt disc inside (in the set you get 10 pads in different colors). All you have to do is to soak the felt with your favorite essential oil (I wouldn’t hesitate to try using perfume on it either), lock it inside & it’s ready to be worn. Great thing is that these pads are reusable – you can wash them and apply a different oil. Pendant is made of stainless steel and it’s available in selection of different motifs on its front. You can find them on Amazon for around $15.