Author Archives: lucasai

Warm heart, Nishane Suède et Safran

Snow has descended upon my hometown last weekend, covering cars, trees, bushes and rooftops with a light and fluffy white blanket that was sparkling in the sunlight. You probably worked it out by now that I usually adjust my perfume choices to the season as I currently wear more leathery, ambery, woody and spicy compositions. I just like when a perfume wraps around me like a plush snake and makes me feel warm from the inside. One of Nishane extraits does the trick!

Launched in the initial collection from the house as 1 out of 14 fragrances in 2015, it took me a while to get to test and appreciate it. Isn’t that a common case that when you can choose among many, finding a gem takes longer? “But let’s get to it! Suede et Safran takes off from the skin surface with an incredibly musky note. As soon as it warms up it expands rapidly with a great sillage. This musk accord balances on the edge between skanky & animalic and pleasantly carnal, sensual. Luckily 2nd aspect is stronger on my skin – it has this undeniable erotic charm that is quite appealing.

From there it doesn’t take much time until the composition reveals one of its title notes – suede. Initial feeling is more like I was smelling leather, as the aroma is heavy and opulent, with a heady sidenote of tanning chemicals. It kind of reminds the fragrance of brand new leather shoes. After some time it softens & leather becomes suede – it smells powdery with gentle fuzziness, now resembling suede jacket in a rich brown color. Suede et Safran is a quite cuddly composition.

nishane-suede-safran

As time goes by Nishane Suede et Safran gradually transforms until it reaches a certain moment when 2nd title ingredient is noticeable. Saffron accord in this perfume is quite different. I usually associate its smell with some rich and jammy aroma, often coupled with rose. Here it smells more dry, very spicy in a warm manner. I also find something slightly oriental and medicated about it. Later a spicy freshness arises when ginger joins the composition to make it brighter.

Drydown puts a lot of accent on ambrette seeds that effuse a powdery vibe all around you. Ginger gives it a light freshness that goes on for a while until it fades away. Notes of Suede and Safran also mention caraway but I don’t smell it. Instead I get the impression of roasted coffee beans, gingerbread cookies and some caramel. It’s quite mouth-watering I must say. At some point those gourmand accents dissipate and powderness is the only thing left.

Suede et Safran from Nishane is a great fragrance, it wears especially well on winter days, when temperature is slightly below zero and the frost pinches your cheeks gently. It’s very warm blend should make you feel less cold. Plus – you will smell great for a whole day as it is very lasting. It’s an extrait so you don’t have to apply much for a good effect. At the moment it only comes in 50 ml bottles. I hope they’ll make travel sizes. This perfume was designed by perfumer Jorge Lee.

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Vox spiritualis, Sauf Contre Bombarde 32

They say that music soothes the savage breast & there’s something very true about it. Especially that with so many various music kinds it’s so easy to find one that will have a positive effect on your mind. I love jazz & smooth jazz, I could listen to saxophone, piano and trumpet for hours and feel relaxed. Music is also a graceful inspiration for fragrance – there are quite many bottles out there that were created with this muse. A perfume that I want to tell you about is more special. Its creator is fascinated by Gothic and loves church music. Branched from UNUM, Sauf was created.

From the very begininng Contre Bombarde 32 effuses a shape-shifting cedar note. At first cold and unfriendly it becomes warmer in no time. As soon as I smelled it for the first time I couldn’t escape the association that this perfume smells like wooden churches in Zakopane (Polish capital city of Tatra Mountains) – as soon as you enter one of them you can’t miss a specific scent of damp wooden boards soaked in the scent of incense over the years of existence of this place.

That said, cedarwood accord is quite soft in this fragrance. It even doesn’t smell like a chunk of wood but more like a still living forest. I somehow get the undertone that suggests pine cones and green needles to me. Then there is elemi resin that comes from underneath a smoky wood in a smooth, seamless manner. It smells balsamic but in a delicate way again. Perhaps it’s like that because of caramel that joins next and wraps parts of the composition altogether.

sauf-contre-bombarde

Caramel note in Contre Bombarde 32 is relatively not sweet and due to incense maintaining its high presence in the blend it almost feels as if it was more salty than sugary. Juniper berries add an aromatic touch with a glimpse of metallic vibe that is pretty enjoyable. After some time this Sauf offering develops a powdery vibe that lasts until late drydown phase. I would say that the source of this sensation lays somewhere in the structure of sandalwood which is soft and creamy.

In the end we have vanilla joining the composition and once it appears the entire perfume becomes simply divine because it smells to me like some fluffy cuddlepuff. The smell of incense, burning wood, caramel and vanilla – despite being so different separately – they smell absolutely amazing when combined. Contre Bombarde 32 is an amazing option for those who are not sure if they like incense in their fragrance or not. It’s a warm, sensual encens blend to wear on chilly days.

Sauf Contre Bombarde 32, despite being inspired by church organ music, is not that much churchy than other incense fragrances that I’m familiar way. It’s definitely different, more alternative, more off-road but oh so good! Incense fragrance that is cuddly and warm and that doesn’t make me feel like I was sitting in the cathedral is something worth noting and giving a test. It comes in extrait concentration so a little goes a long way. Its 50 ml bottle was designed to remind of pulls in a real church organ. Perfumer for this fragrance (also brand owner) is Filippo Sorcinelli.

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