1001 nights, Keiko Mecheri Bois Satin

Keiko Mecheri, born in Atami, Japan, was an artistic soul since her early years. She’s an artist and also a trained pianist. Her passion grew stronger thanks to her studies in the arts in Europe and at UCLA. In the first place she created a brand focused on skin care products and scented candles, its name was Bazaar des Senteurs. After the introduction of first three perfume creations, perfume became the main interest of Maison Keiko Mecheri. In march 2014, during Esxence in Milan, Keiko presented the new perfume (at the moment it’s not the newest one anymore, since then the brand managed to introduce another composition) and it was really to my liking.

The opening whiff of Keiko Mecheri Bois Satin goes right up my sinuses and gives me shivers. Right from the very first second you are treated to a generous dose of saffron. This note starts very intensive, almost pungent. It’s really warm, fierce and bears the bright red color. After around 5 minutes the intensity drops but the saffron is still very beautiful there. Shortly after that vanilla joins the composition – and when it does that, Bois Satin transforms into an ultimate weapon of seduction. It adds a really elegant sweetness that is a little bit powdery and dark at the same time. This rich aroma is warm and embracing, like the highest quality fluffy cashmere sweater. It wraps around you and makes you feel good.

At around 30 minutes mark new elements appear in the composition of this fragrance. First of all there is quite a lot of woody tones. The notes pyramid doesn’t declare any specific kind of wood but were I to name a species or two, I would probably say sandalwood and cashmere wood. The woody stage is definitely smooth. It’s also substantial yet really sensual. These woodsy notes entwine with vanilla and saffron so nicely, that after a while they become unity. So gorgeous!

Sweetened woody notes play really nicely on the skin, they sort of melt together with it but Bois Satin isn’t a skin scent per-se. You can smell the fragrance on your skin for sure but it’s rather quiet and inoffensive. If you want somebody else to smell it you either have to apply more generously or you have to invite that person to come much closer to you. Woods and sweetness last on my skin until the perfume is completely gone but there are still couple more things going on in this blend. My personal observation is that at some point Bois Satin develops a slightly liquory and chocolate-like vibe. They appear at the same time so I’m calling it a chocolate praline effect. It really is delicious and makes me lick my lips.

At some later point of development, after 2 maybe 3 hours, Bois Satin from Keiko Mecheri unveils this beautiful leathery vibe. No! Leather is a wrong word here, this is definitely like a suede. Very soft and gentle, a little bit fuzzy and pleasant in touch. The vibe it introduces is quite carnal and erotic, at least to me. This kind of perfume makes me think of warm and naked bodies. Luminous tones of amber combined with the vanillic flavor that still mingles in the background, they additionally highlight this sensuous effect making Bois Satin very close to the person who wears it.

In the drydown there’s a little bit of jasmine. The aroma of white flowers is combined with continuous woody and sweet tones, causing this note to have more oriental feeling rather than smelling typically floral. The same applies to the rose accord but since I think there’s less rose than jasmine in Bois Satin, rose somehow got lost in this arabic concoction of woods, sweets and spices. As Keiko explained, the main inspiration for Bois Satin was Loukhoum, the sweet and also the iconic perfume from Keiko Mecheri. Bois Satin was meant to be its more grown-up, mature interpretation. I think it worked well.

Bois Satin was created for Keiko Mecheri by perfumer Yann Vasnier. This perfume starts very pungent with wonderful saffron but in a very short time softens and becomes a composition very close to the skin and it stays there until if disappears after around 7-8 hours. This eau de parfum is closed in the black 75ml flacon – signature of Maison Keiko Mecheri. By the way, the brand has recently changed a design of their caps. Instead of being multi-faceted, they are more square-like now. Recommended wear time for this scent is winter. The cold aura should make it even better.

[note] pictures: press, Feline Hebert Pinterest, klischees.blogspot.com

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3 from Santi Burgas Loant Collection

Shortly before my departure to Florence for Pitti Fragranze in September I was contacted by Santiago Burgas Bou, a fashion designer from Spain who also happens to be a creative director of his own perfume line. He wrote to me saying that he saw I was going to Florence and that he’d be there as well but not as an exhibitor but as a guest and that he’d like to show me his perfume collection. To me, every opportunity is a good opportunity to try something new, so we scheduled a meeting somewhere at the fair area. He told me a bit about his perfume and I was given a lovely set of seven 3ml sample vials to explore the compositions in-depth.

Funny thing about Santi Burgas as a brand is that Santiago finds his inspirations in nature, especially in life of insects. I bet his favorite insect is ant, otherwise his brand logo wouldn’t have a shape of ant with wings and a crown and he probably wouldn’t name his perfume line LOANT. The idea behind these perfumes is that they are pretty varied and are designed to be layered with each other. Since I don’t like the perfume layering concept I’m trying the scents separately. Maybe I will try some mixing in the end… Without further ado, let’s have a look at first half of the scents.

LOJAZZ, the perfume in a yellow-ish color opens with a prominent and lush aroma of orange blossom. It has a very pretty floral smell that instantly makes me think of summertime, beach and fun. It starts of pretty intensive but the intensity drops within 15 minutes, leaving a much more delicate fragrance on your skin. Shortly after jasmine sambac joins the composition, turning up the volume of the flowery facet of Lojazz. Initially there is also a small dose of indole to detect but it fades away shortly. More or less this perfume slowly becomes kind of clean floral scent, reminiscent of freshly washed bed-sheets. After some time the powdery smell of violet flower joins the composition, adding a tiny cosmetic twist to this perfume. Later on it turns a little bit citrusy, probably because of the orange blossom that is a carrier of a citrus reminiscent aroma. The final touch is magnolia that on me smells very fresh and dewy, developing into more watery thing after 2-3 hours. This perfume is soft, sweet and round. There are no surprises here, it’s an obvious floral composition. It’s pretty in its simplicity and it really begs to layer it with another Loant creation.

LOTREE, the perfume in a shade of green, sets off with an intensive woody aroma that most likely is a cedarwood. It carries the smell that I think words such as dry, rugged, rough would describe best. The vibe of this perfume is rather masculine at the begininng but after some time it becomes more versatile. After the cedar phase has passed, this fragrance starts to emit a pleasant aroma of sandalwood from Sri-Lanka. It’s not creamy but it definitely smooths the rough edges of Lotree. After some period of time you can experience an interesting dusty and powdery accord created with the use of oakmoss. After around 2 hours Lotree becomes more dense – it starts to smell a bit spicy (like nutmeg, but no spicy notes in description – mind you) and it even develops the smell of leather. And this leather is dark and heavy, like a coat. The balsamic vibe it introduces would be ideal to wear during a cold Autumn day or in early Winter. This is a woody and a bit oriental blend that is okay to wear alone, I’m going check what kind of layering options are available for it.

LOROSE in red is a very pretty, if not the prettiest of them all. The perfume starts right away with the intensive floral aroma of rose that has a very good saturation and intensity. This rose has an oily aroma in the background, so it kind of smells like a rose attar to me. Very beautiful, lush and velvety. In this composition perfumer used essences of two different roses, from Bulgaria and from India. After a while the perfume develops an incredibly delicious crispiness when geranium chord appears right next to the rose. It adds a nice vibrancy to the scent and intensifies the odour of roses. Geranium also adds something lush and green to this perfume. There’s also something fresh and spicy about this note but I also think I smell a little bit of cinnamon, but it’s not mentioned in the notes. Patchouli… Oh, there is a lot of patchouli in this perfume but it’s seamlessly blended with rose. It just adds a lot of depth and dimension to Lorose. It also provides a warm and spicy background that goes so well with the floral aroma of rose. This perfume is also very delicious, after a few hours it smells like a rose jam on my skin, so appetizing.

All three of the above have a moderate sillage and they last for around 6-8 hours. These fragrances come in 50ml bottles, each juice has a different color. The perfumer of the line is Blanca Dalmau.

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