One day in Sicily, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa

Those of you who have been following my blog for at least 2-3 months probably managed to notice that I have a soft spot for Italian perfumery. But this is not only about the perfume art in Italy. I really like the way people live there, their attitude, their big family meals, gelatos and of course the the essence of Italian fashion. The house of Acqua di Parma really fits the bill when it comes to Italian elegance and sophistication in fragrance and accesories. Established in 1916 this small brand grew into an iconic name. Many celebrities from Europe and US use products from their offer.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa immediately bursts with a generous dose of extra juicy citrus blend. It’s very lively, vigorous and energetic mix that will offer you some of its energy in no time. This mix is composed most likely of grapefruits, oranges, tangerines and lemons; pulp and rinds. 15 minutes later the explosion of citrus fruit becomes a little bit more edgy and aromatic thanks to the bergamot and its green peel which has a nice and zesty smell. This fragrance is like a wake up.

A while later the composition becomes more spicy. A nice dose of cardamom, which despite the fact it belongs to the ‘cold spice’ category, it adds some warmth and gentle spiciness to the composition. The creators paired it with ginger which adds more prominence to the spicy accord. It also brings some sparkling fizziness like in a ginger ale. It also adds some freshness to Colonia Intensa. Leather is the aroma that appears next and it enters around the end of 1st hour. It has a little bit pungency at first but generally speaking it could be described as stylish and elegant. Its full-bodied aroma is substantial but also gentle and not overwhelming.

After some time you can smell a beautiful neroli note. It’s a bit cold, giving you a chill going along your spine. It’s fresh and effervescent, at the same time there is something soapy about it that gives you an impression of absolute cleanliness. To be honest the contrast between the soapy neroli and a bit dirtier leather is very intriguing and it smells so good! One of the key-role notes in Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa is the benzoin resin. It adds much more density, structure and depth to this vibrant composition of citrus and spices. Benzoin in this perfume smells a tad creamy, balsamic and warm. I also get a feeling like it has some sort of caramely undertone which makes me think of traditional Polish fudge which is probably one of the yummiest sweets from Poland.

Later on Colonia Intensa becomes more of a woody composition. We have a lot of cedar here which is dry and earthy (no sweat!), some addition of guaiac wood for more structure and a bit darker flavor. There is also artemisia that adds some herbal, slightly medicinal and green tones as well. The drydown makes a focus on balsamic myrrh combined with the earthy and woody scent of patchouli. All this is placed on a musky base which adds a finishing touch of surprising freshness. This is the kind of fragrance that will make you feel pampered each time you wear it.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa is a beautiful composition of truly Italian roots. The blend of energetic citrus, spices and woods is very classy and quite timeless I think. The composition veers a little bit towards masculine but woman should have no problem with borrowing this perfume from their men. The sillage of this perfume is rather average and it goes low after 1,5 hours. The longevity isn’t outstanding – on me it was 4-6 hours of a rather faint aroma. Despite that I think that it’s a great perfume. Colonia Intensa was launched in 2007 and it’s a follow-up of Colonia from 1916. Created by Alberto Morillas and Francois Demachy (now in Dior division).

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Signature Fragrances Lurre & Deja Vu

Signature Fragrances is the new perfume brand located in Great Britain. The aim of this new line is not to create a traditional perfumes per-se but to go back to even older roots of perfumery – they make fragrance oils. If you wanted to know any more details I’m sorry but I can’t give you more as there are none. The website of the brand is not ready yet, all you can see there is “luxury fragrance oils coming soon” and a beautiful picture of some perfume bottle that looks like Dior J’Adore.

According to what you can see on Signature Fragrances London Instagram profile, at least 6 different perfume oils are being produced. Thanks to the kindness of the brand I received two fragrance oils samples and I’m going to tell you about them right now. Please note that the brand doesn’t give any notes for their compositions, so what I smell might be more or less accurate and true to what essences were actually used in composing them. Each sample has a short overview.

INCREDIBLY POPULAR

golden, fruity, subtle, modern, unforgettable

Among these two perfume oils that I’m reviewing, Lurre is definitely a lighter one. As soon as I use a little smear agains my wrist I start to smell the prominent and juicy aroma of apple. It’s very true, very realistic to the fragrance that ripe apples have. There is something suggestive in this scent that immediately makes me think of green apples, Golden Delicious or Granny Smith variety. This scents makes a slow progress which allows you to discover the notes gradually.

After 30 or so minutes I begin to smell some spring fruits and strawberry is what comes to my mind as the first association. It has a juicy, tangy flavor with a gentle balance between sweet and sour. Later on I think I smell some raisins that add a very relaxed, Mediterranean vibe to this composition from Signature Fragrances. I think there is also a little bit of apricot or pear in this oil blend, although I’m not sure. As I said, these are just my own impressions. Your feelings might differ.

For a long time Lurre doesn’t change much and it oscillates between the fruity tones of apples, strawberries and dried grapes. When I asked my Mum what does Lurre smell of to her first reaction was “it smells like just opened bottle of white wine”. There is something accurate about that, however in the drydown I think that I smell some cognac (maybe there is wine in the opening and cognac later?) What I am sure of is that I smell some caramel in the background.

 OVERBEARING DESIRE

delicious, wild, fruity, spicy, warm

Signature Fragrances Deja Vu opens with a magnificent and lush aroma of tons of osmanthus flowers soaked in the highest quality rum. There are a lot of floral tones going on in this perfume oil blend and it also has that wonderful booze and richness of alcohol and sweet sugar cane. After a longer while it slowly starts to shift. The booze becomes less prominent and fruity accords become more powerful. Among them there is some pear and peach. The latter dominates the composition.

The aroma of peach is very fruity and reminiscent of apricot at first but as it evolves you can notice that more lactonic, milky and creamy notes start to appear as surroundings for this accord. Some time later Deja Vu develops a warm and juicy vibe. To me it smells kind of like a hot apple pie with a lovely cinnamon coat on top. Although it’s not cinnamon but probably cardamom that adds the gentle spiciness to this perfume oil. The smell is so mouth-watering.

Deja Vu is the kind of fragrance that is characterized by an incredible richness, tenderness and warmth. When you apply a few drops to your pulse points, the fragrance fills the entire place. Just recently my Mum came back home some time after I applied a drop of Deja Vu to my wrists and the very moment she entered the house she said “mmm, something smells nice”. The drydown has some of the initial booze and I also detect a lot of coconut there with its milky white flesh facet.

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Founders of Signature Fragrances London say: “our fragrances are hip, diverse, and tenaciously pungent. Our aim is to bring back purpose to perfume.” On each sample there is also a slogan “The most pungent fragrances in the world”. And these are not just words. Both Lurre and Deja Vu are very rich, sophisticated and highly concentrated. I think we might expect that these oil contain over 25% of essences. Their sillage is impressive and longevity is above 12 hours. One day I wore Deja Vu for 14 hours and it was still strong and it would probably still last if I didn’t take a shower.

I never had much experience with perfume oil blends but these two are incredibly good. You should check them out. I hope you will get the chance to sample them because they’re worth exploring.

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