Following Alexander, Parfum d’Empire Iskander

With each fragrance Parfum d’Empire takes us on an imaginary journey through time and allows us to follow the olfactory trails of historical characters and places they visited. Iskander, a perfume introduced in 2006 is a scented portrait of Alexander the Great. It follows the conquerors expeditions step by step when he was on his way from the West to the East.

This hesperidic chypre starts with a huge citrus blast of Amalfi lemon & grapefruit blend. The smell is intensive, pungent and straight in your face. Its tart and citric quality, despite the fact being really strong, is very pleasant thanks to the warm notes mingling in the background. Plus this citrus bomb quickly turns into much lighter kind of thing. Very shortly a cedarwood note appears, it’s woody with a slight sweaty feeling. It is well covered by the softness of orange blossom and gentle sweetness of mandarin orange which makes Iskander a pleasant scent. Citron adds some sourness to it.

After a while the beautiful oakmoss base is reached. It has a great smell. It’s solid, easily noticeable and not overpowering. Oakmoss is light here and it has that dark green color and a smell of a shrub. Iskander provides a suble whisper of chypre with enough mossy molecules to satisfy our needs for the note, at the same time sticking to regulations created by IFRA. The perfume changes with time.

After a few hours only a weak citrus scent can be noticed. The oakmoss base is still present but in much lighter form, muffled by the warm and spicy notes diluted in Parfum d’Empire Iskander. What we have here is some tarragon – with this warm and sunny smell that is not only slightly spicy but it also reminds me of the scent of wheat or hay. Like you were somewhere at the cottage. Coriander is also one of the notes. It gives this spicy and warm feeling to the scent but it has some dry, paper-like properties that really puts some pressure on the aromatic accord if this perfume. Amber might be impossible to notice but I guess it acts as one of the warming notes for Iskander.

In late drydown this fragrance can be considered to be slightly sweet with white floral chords. Neroli is very graceful and it mixes with the sweet smell of orange (juice) over the delicate and transparent musk base. Longevity of Iskander is really great, it can easily accompany you for a whole day without any problems. It has a good sillage, big at the beginning when a citrus bomb explodes but it gets smaller with time. If you’re looking for a citrus scent with a chypre twist Parfum d’Empire Iskander is absolutely worth checking out. The perfume does great in the heat, so it’s a nice spring/summer choice that won’t let you down. I think it’s time for me to get it!

Creator of Iskander is Marc Antoine-Corticchiato, a Parfum d’Empire house founder. The scent is an eau de parfum available in 50 ml and 100 ml flacons of a design characteristic to the line.

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Let’s have a kiki, Vero Profumo Kiki

What’s a kiki? A song will do as an introduction to the scent today. Sing, dance, listen if you wish.

A kiki is a party, for calming all your nerves
We’re spilling tea, and dishing just desserts one may deserve
And though the sun is rising, few may choose to leave
So shade that lid and we’ll all bid adieu to your ennui *

Now seriously. Kiki is a scent created by perfumer Vero Kern who stands behind niche perfume brand Vero Profumo. It was not inspired by the song but by Kiki de Montparnasse, muse of Man Ray. Scent itself is a hommage to the city of Paris. Kiki was first introduced in extrait de parfum in 2007. Later in 2010 its lighter eau de parfum version was introduced. I will try to cover both now.

Kiki Eau de Parfum starts off as an aromatic lavender scent that quickly reveals its floral side. It’s very happy, upliftic and rather, let’s call it, fresh. Kiki’s lavender is really lovely and unlike many other lavender fragrances it’s not herbal at all. Hope no one gets angry at me when I say that it reminds me of a high quality soap with lavender flowers in it. It’s like a scent of Provence. There’s also a light spicy quality to lavender of Kiki. After some time lavender turns lighter and at that time Vero Profumo Kiki Eau de Parfum reveals its sweet, gourmand side of caramel. It possesess some delicious and edible aroma. Who wants some toffee? In the drydown this perfume is mostly a citrus scent. We have a little bit of watery passionfruit here, bergamot and citron – all paired with accord of light musk. Vero Kern also found some space for crispy geranium and a little bit of patchouli (really?)

What can I say about Kiki Parfum? It’s was a mother scent for Kiki EdP. It’s opening is also created from aromatic lavender but its different than in EdP. Lavender in Kiki Parfum is more spicy and definitely less soapy in my opinion. Might be just my personal notice but I think it’s a little bit more floral. Extrait version of Kiki definitely has less caramel. It’s not as sweet as EdP. There are other ingredients that make it edible. Black currant makes it slightly fruity. Notes of citron, bergamot, musk, geranium and patchouli are present of course. There’s a slight difference in both since Kiki Parfum has some opoponax and amber that give more sensuality and sweet warmth in late drydown. It’s beautiful and charming, kind of frivolous. I’ve never been to Paris (though it’s relatively close from Poland) but if Kiki really is a hommage to Paris then I want to go there now. (I wish I could, but I can’t right now).

When I first tried Kiki it kind of didn’t work for me, it smelled a little bit old-lady-like on my skin. But I tried to stay neutral and few more samplings changed my mind. Now I find both Kiki Parfum and Kiki Eau de Parfum charming and amazing fragrances, made with lots of love and care for the details. I personally liked Eau de Parfum more because of it’s more soapy lavender and caramel. Vero Kern created a beauty for woman and man who are not afraid to wear something that gears towards feminine side of the perfume counter. May I be honest with you? I think I don’t need a bottle of Kiki in my collection. At least not now. But I’m curious about other Vero Profumo fragrances.

Kiki Eau de Parfum is available in 50ml bottle while Kiki Parfum can be spotten in 7,5ml and 15ml flacons. Did you try Kiki or other Vero Kern scents? Did you like them?

* – lyrics of Let’s Have A Kiki by Scissor Sisters

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