Facts & myths on sunbathing

We are in the middle of the summer and many of those who are currently on summer vacation chose seaside as their holiday destination – be it a local, Baltic Sea in case of Poland or some more distant place at Cote d’Azur for example. Couple of weeks ago I went cycling and decided to take a little break and drink some water nearby the lake. Consciously or not I overheard a conversation between two women, around 30-years-old. They were talking about the sunbathing product for a while but they got it all wrong. Which inspired me to write this post.

The discussion about doing sunbathing right should start with explanation of the structure of solar radiation and how it can influence our bodies. The Sun radiation that reaches our planet covers the wavelengths between 100 nm and 1 mm which is pretty broad. The shortest wavelengths region, which is also the most energetic one is the Ultraviolet. This part of the radiation can be further divided into UVC (Ultraviolet C) – it is mostly absorbed by the atmosphere of the Earth and it almost doesn’t reach the surface of our planet. UVC is invisible to the human eye, it also has germicidal properties.

Next is UVB (Ultraviolet B) which is also absorbed by the atmosphere in the vast percentage. However the UVB radiation that reaches us is responsible for sunburns and it can directly damage the DNA of your body cells. Ultraviolet A (UVA) was once believed to be less harmful to us than UVB but nowadays it it’s the A part of Ultraviolet spectrum that is considered the most dangerous. UVA doesn’t affect our skin DNA directly. It does it by producing free radicals and reactive oxygen species. Those two are like small bombs invisible to our eyes. They bombard out bodies causing chain reactions that are hard to stop. In result a cell DNA can mutate and start replicating itself – that leads to cancer. Interesting thing is that this same UVA radiation is used for artificial tanning! Also due to the lower energy, the UVB part of the spectrum doesn’t penetrate our skin deeply while more energetic UVA has the power to penetrate deeper parts of our skin, where it can damage our collagen and elastin fibrils – leading to photo-aging after years.

Between 380 nm and 780 nm is the visible part of the solar spectrum and you can see it with your eyes. This part of the spectrum is the strongest one when it comes to irridiance. Lastly there’s Infrared covering the part between around 700 nm and 1 mm. It’s an important part of electromagnetic radiation reaching the Earth. Our bodies feel this part of the spectrum as the warmth sensation. Infrared can be also grouped into A, B and C type. Now you know what is what in the solar spectrum and how it affects our cells in a harmful and dangerous way.

I have met with a general public opinion that many people think that you should protect your skin from the direct sunlight only in the summer when the sunlight is the most intensive and most direct. Wrong! The sun shines all year round. No matter if you can see it in the sky, or if it’s covered by a thick layer of clouds or even if it’s raining, the radiation from the Sun reaches the Earth and affects us. The radiation can be also reflected from plain and shiny surfaces like water or snow. This means that we should think about the proper skin protection not only in the summer but also in spring, autumn and winter. Remember – it’s for your own sake!

Cosmetic products dedicated to sunbathing, which are meant to be a protection from the sunlight, should be “equipped” with sun protection factor, SPF in abbreviation. Many people are mistaken thinking that the higher is the number of the SPF they’re using, the more safe they are during bathing in the sun. That is both true and false. It’s true that higher SPF values provide a better protection but the number on the sunblocker bottle isn’t equivalent to the percentage of how well protected we are. SPF 100 doesn’t give 100% of safe fun in the sun.

Such thing as 100% of sunblocking protection doesn’t exist, even in the current advanced state of cosmetics chemistry. No one has invented the substance that will ensure that we won’t get affected by the Ultraviolet radiation from the sun. The number following the SPF on the packaging of your sunscreen tells you how many times longer will your safe sunbathing time be. What is that “safe sunbathing sun” you might wonder. It’s the amount of time that passes from the moment you expose your skin to the sun without sun protection to the moment until you observe first symptoms of your skin turning to the defence position – when it becomes locally red. So if your skin turns red from the sun after 15 minutes, SPF 20 will allow you to stay longer in the sun for 20 times. Scientists and cosmetologist still argue if this is actually true or not as researches prove differently.

Now that we’re speaking about the sun protection factor, you should also know that there are two categories of substances that can protect us from the harmful UV radiation we’re exposed to every day. First category are physical filters, also known as mineral or inorganic filters. Two chemicals are currently used in this group and these are titanium dioxideTiO2 and zinc oxideZnO. Both are commercially available in a form of white powder. If in the past you once used a sun cream which despite long rubbing-in always left a thin white layer on the skin – you were using a cream with a physical filter. Nowadays the white marks from mineral filters are not an issue because particles of these oxides have nano-size and are not visible to human eyes.

The protective mechanism of physical filters is to reflect the harmful radiation of the UV spectrum. Those filters don’t irritate skin and have high photostability. The only problem with them is that they can’t be used alone in the final product. They need to be accompanied by silicones, fatty acids or oxides of aluminium or zirconium to fulfill their role. The second group of UV filters are chemical filters. These are specific compounds, in practise all of them are organic, which protect our skin cells by absorbing the radiation of a specific wavelength or the range of wavelengths. All these protective molecules have a lot of double and triple bonds. To this group you can count in the synthetic derivatives of: para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, anthranilic acid, benzophenones, camphor derivatives, benzoilmethane and others. Most often used are octocrylene, drometrizole trisiloxane, avobenzone. Sunscreen products should contain at least 3-4 of them to provide the right level of protection against the sun.

Sun protection specifics should be picked carefully and specifically for the person that will be using them. Skin of every one of us is different and has its very own phototype, in other words we’re speaking of complexion. People with light carnation should choose higher SPF factors than those of darner carnation. Red-haired people have especially low levels of melanin in their skin and should be extra careful while spending time in the sun. Picking an SPF 30 product will provide you with 98% of absorbed UV radiation. There is also a group of natural products and extracts such as shea butter, argan oil, beta-caroten, lycopene, aloe vera or green tea extracts that are capable of stopping the chain reactions caused by radicals, lowering the damage done to your skin.

The final question is – what kind of cosmetic products with SPF should you choose. The answer to that isn’t complicated. Lotions, creams and milks are the best due to their consistency and other ingredients that also nurture your skin. Most of these products are also waterproof. But they sometimes can leave a sticky layer on top of your skin. If that is a problem for you try using sunbathing oils with a proper sun protection factor. Those are dry oils which will evaporate few minutes after application, they will leave shiny and non-sticky layer on your skin. Many people, especially ladies like them because they optically make your skin look more darker. Shiny surface also presents the body shape better. It’s better to re-apply them after taking a dive into the water.

Marketing tip – your sunblocker doesn’t have to be expensive. Actually it’s better to decide on one which is from the middle-priced shelf as in this segment of the market the competition is the highest and brands have to try their hardest to offer a product that will make you come back for another bottle when you run out. I hope that this post taught you a lesson and that you learned something new and valuable. Sun is for everyone and you can’t hide from it for your entire life that’s why you should profit from exposing some bare skin to the sun but in a healthy and most of all, safe way.

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Gentle fighter, Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin

Cologne is a very specific object in the perfumery world. Sheer, light and citrusy. It is meant to instantly refresh and invigorate you, give a shot of positive energy and awake your senses.Normally having around 3-5% of perfume oils diluted in the alcohol it’s not meant to last all day. It’s the impression of here and now. Atelier Cologne, maison de parfum established in 2010, has returned to the roots of perfumery and found the inspiration in cologne, elevating it to a new level – by combining classic citrus notes in the top with other precious materials from around the world. All concentrated at around 20%. It just couldn’t go wrong, could it? I don’t think so…

In May I had a priviledge to present to you the third composition in Collection Metal, which was Blanche Immortelle. Today I’m happy to tell you about the 4th fragrance in this line. It’s very exciting! Santal Carmin opens on my skin with a juicy aroma of limette from Mexico. It gives a sweet juiciness with a lot of endorphins and the warmth of the sun. During the next couple of minutes the bright and splashy aroma grows bigger creating some really nice sillage around the wearer. Then, after 15 or so minutes the sweet & juicy flavor of limette becomes more sour, tangy and aromatic when bergamot joins the composition of the new Atelier Cologne scent.

Green bergamot rind adds a specific aroma that is slightly acidic and fizzy. You can easily imagine sparkling bubbles in the glass of lemonade while smelling the opening of Santal Carmin. At the 45 minutes mark you can observe how the leading, titular accord of sandalwood starts to appear on your skin. After wearing this Cologne Absolue for a few times I noticed that the sandalwood is not compact in this composition but has two, if not three different natures that reveal gradually.

At first, when you smell it after those 45 minutes of juicy goodness, the sandalwood note in Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin seems to be distant and dry. There is something rugged about it, it feels like it was full of splinters that could hurt your hand when you want to feel the wood structure. This feeling lasts for 1 hour, maybe a little longer before the accord starts to shift. After the bit harsh phase of sandalwood chord has passed you get to discover the second nature of this perfume material. It all starts by heating up the blend, making it more passionate and fierce. Saffron makes the temperature rising and the combination of it and sandalwood results in something a little bit smoky at first. This impression is quite fleeting on me.

When the smokiness subsides you can smell the entwining notes of intensive saffron and solid sandalwood. These two essences are a really good match. Together they feel warm, a little bit spicy and there is this very beautiful and elegant richness to this marriage of notes. After some time guaiac wood (from India) appears among the other notes. It makes Santal Carmin a tad heavier on woodsy elements and it provides some more heaviness, density and a bit of darkness to the perfume structure. It’s not spectacularly heavy but it is substantial and proportions are really good.

Almost two hours later, close to the finish of the 4th hour of having this perfume on skin the sandalwood matter becomes much lighter, both in terms of the weight and shade. The musky molecules introduce a valuable dose of creaminess that feels fluffy and soft. When it blends with the santal note the wood seems to immediately become smoother, shiny and polished. The combined aromas of musk and sandalwood result in a tasteful feeling of posh and good taste.

Continuing the journey through the “woods” with Santal Carmin, Atelier Cologne prepared a little woody shift in this stage. What is it you might ask? It’s the powderness. At some point, later in the perfume development, the combo of musk + sandalwood smells pretty powdery though it’s bit hard for me to describe the kind of powderness. It’s definitely not talcy or irisy. Additionally, there’s something buttery about this stage as well. Later on I could smell a bit drier (again) aroma of cedarwood but it didn’t manage to break through the creamy cocoon of musky sandalwood. Vanilla however was able to mark its presence by adding a gentle sweetness.

There is also a little bit of papyrus in this Cologne Absolue but to be honest I didn’t smell it. Maybe it blended in with the drier notes such as cedarwood. The composition is a work of Jerome Epinette. Just like with all their creations, Atelier Cologne founders – Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel want to tell a story. Santal Carmin story is complementary to the one of Blanche Immortelle.

He had a spark from an early age, with a sharp intuition and limitless curiosity. One day they would call him a revolutionary. The moment had come to fight for his dreams and bring his ideas to the world. Possibly a new are would begin.

Normally I like to read an ad-copy like this but I usually don’t pay much attention to it. Perfume is what I care about the most, not the poetic language someone used to create a background story for the fragrance. But this story really caught my attention. I started wondering why and then I realized it – to some extend this is a story about me. I might not be a revolutionary and I doubt I had a spark but I certainly am a dreamer and I’m going to fight for my dreams.

Atelier Cologne Santal Carmin is a perfume that has the power of solid and substantial perfumery materials but at the same time this is a very gentle fragrance composition. Those red boxing gloves seen on the visual are not to punch someone in their face, they are more like a metaphor of fighting for your dreams and aspirations. This scent adds courage and self-confidence to those in need.

With 18% of fragrance oils concentration (the same percentage as for Blanche Immortelle) this perfume is able to last for all day long (my shortest result was 10 hours, longest – 14) however its structure is a bit different from Blanche Immortelle. Santal Carmin is a bit more quiet and reserved. It also prefers to stay closer to the skin. It’s a contemplative kind of thing. This perfume will be available by the end of July in gold covered bottles of 100 and 200ml. 30ml will be possible to get only in a coffret with a huge bottle. Soap and candle will be also produced.

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