Summer is a tricky part of the year for me. I can love it or hate it depending on how bearable the temperatures are. I like mild summer, with temperatures around 22ºC because I feel comfortable then & can wear airy t-shirts, shorts or linen pants. Of course I also have a little arsenal of fragrances that help to keep me cool. I love my citrus fragrances. I also love Prada, as a self-proclaimed Pradaholic it will always have a special place in my heart. Plus in fact I find most of their creation to go along with my taste, it’s a double win. If Prada goes citrus, count me in.
Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger opens with a bright orange blossom aroma. It’s a sparkling sensation that I like to compare to bubbles in a glass of sparkling water. Every waft of it feels like a little bubble that then bursts, releasing a tiny cloud of fragrance. Few minutes later the floral opening becomes more aromatic, more juicy thanks to a note of mandarin orange. It introduces a fruity vibe that is very pretty and delicate like a summery dress. Mandarin also adds a tiny bit of zestiness blended with citrus pulp sweetness. It gives me relaxing, chillout vibe. The feeling is fresh and invigorating like a quick summer rain.
Composition develops further in white flowers direction. There’s a handful of jasmine in Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger but it feels light and airy. Tuberose is there too but just like jasmine, it’s lightweight and transparent. However there’s a twist to these as many people detect some animalic dirtiness in this fragrance. I feel it too & to me it’s faint but stands out in the context of a whole perfume. Perhaps it’s some indole from jasmine? Once it fades away, drydown reveals a sweet & soapy scent of neroli. It’s clean and fresh like a white bed linen in a summer resort hotel. That Ephemeral Infusion launched in 2009 as a limited edition (it’s still easy to find online).
Two years ago (2015) perfume division of Prada decided to revive Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by launching Les Infusions de Prada collection, which is now further expanded. The perfume opens with almost identical orange blossom note as its predecessor but on my skin it has more citric qualities. The effect of mandarin is more intensive so that the perfume feels more vibrant and zesty. It’s still a bubbly, sparkling sensation full of happiness but now this glass of water has a few extra orange slices inside. Fruitiness of mandarin orange blends well with orange blossom to provide a cotton soft veil of scent.
Further into fragrance development jasmine appears just like in earlier version of Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger. It’s the same kind of ethereal, airy jasmine with a delicate warmth that gives it a charming sunny vibe. In this version in practise I didn’t smell the animalic aspect of indole that was mentioned above. Instead when tuberose joins the composition I detect a creamy vibe from this Prada that smells gently of coconut and suntan lotion. When neroli finally appears I smell familiar soapy vibe that I so like in Prada fragrances. In 2015 however it feels as if it was slightly more powdery and musky, but this could be as well just my imagination.
Both 2009 and 2015 Infusions have the same ingredients listed – Tunisian neroli, Moroccan orange blossom, Tunisian orange blossom, Indian tuberose, Indian sambac jasmine. To me the differences between these two Infusions de Fleur d’Oranger as so minor that you could say that it’s actually the same perfume instead of a completely new one. Both were developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier from Givaudan. Also both of them are incredibly light and deserve a title of a fleeting beauty as they’re completely gone in 1-2 hours. Well, it’s a summer fragrance alright so you might want to re-apply during the day, it’s alright. Probably only things that makes a difference between them is the packaging. The newer version has simplified and more clean-looking packaging & the glass of its bottle has a gentle orange hue. Do you think you could become friends with this perfume?