Tag Archives: 2009 launch

Field notes from holidays, Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger

Summer is a tricky part of the year for me. I can love it or hate it depending on how bearable the temperatures are. I like mild summer, with temperatures around 22ºC because I feel comfortable then & can wear airy t-shirts, shorts or linen pants. Of course I also have a little arsenal of fragrances that help to keep me cool. I love my citrus fragrances. I also love Prada, as a self-proclaimed Pradaholic it will always have a special place in my heart. Plus in fact I find most of their creation to go along with my taste, it’s a double win. If Prada goes citrus, count me in.

infusion-oranger-2009

Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger opens with a bright orange blossom aroma. It’s a sparkling sensation that I like to compare to bubbles in a glass of sparkling water. Every waft of it feels like a little bubble that then bursts, releasing a tiny cloud of fragrance. Few minutes later the floral opening becomes more aromatic, more juicy thanks to a note of mandarin orange. It introduces a fruity vibe that is very pretty and delicate like a summery dress. Mandarin also adds a tiny bit of zestiness blended with citrus pulp sweetness. It gives me relaxing, chillout vibe. The feeling is fresh and invigorating like a quick summer rain.

Composition develops further in white flowers direction. There’s a handful of jasmine in Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger but it feels light and airy. Tuberose is there too but just like jasmine, it’s lightweight and transparent. However there’s a twist to these as many people detect some animalic dirtiness in this fragrance. I feel it too & to me it’s faint but stands out in the context of a whole perfume. Perhaps it’s some indole from jasmine? Once it fades away, drydown reveals a sweet & soapy scent of neroli. It’s clean and fresh like a white bed linen in a summer resort hotel. That Ephemeral Infusion launched in 2009 as a limited edition (it’s still easy to find online).

infusion-oranger-2015

Two years ago (2015) perfume division of Prada decided to revive Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by launching Les Infusions de Prada collection, which is now further expanded. The perfume opens with almost identical orange blossom note as its predecessor but on my skin it has more citric qualities. The effect of mandarin is more intensive so that the perfume feels more vibrant and zesty. It’s still a bubbly, sparkling sensation full of happiness but now this glass of water has a few extra orange slices inside. Fruitiness of mandarin orange blends well with orange blossom to provide a cotton soft veil of scent.

Further into fragrance development jasmine appears just like in earlier version of Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger. It’s the same kind of ethereal, airy jasmine with a delicate warmth that gives it a charming sunny vibe. In this version in practise I didn’t smell the animalic aspect of indole that was mentioned above. Instead when tuberose joins the composition I detect a creamy vibe from this Prada that smells gently of coconut and suntan lotion. When neroli finally appears I smell familiar soapy vibe that I so like in Prada fragrances. In 2015 however it feels as if it was slightly more powdery and musky, but this could be as well just my imagination.

Both 2009 and 2015 Infusions have the same ingredients listed – Tunisian neroli, Moroccan orange blossom, Tunisian orange blossom, Indian tuberose, Indian sambac jasmine. To me the differences between these two Infusions de Fleur d’Oranger as so minor that you could say that it’s actually the same perfume instead of a completely new one. Both were developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier from Givaudan. Also both of them are incredibly light and deserve a title of a fleeting beauty as they’re completely gone in 1-2 hours. Well, it’s a summer fragrance alright so you might want to re-apply during the day, it’s alright. Probably only things that makes a difference between them is the packaging. The newer version has simplified and more clean-looking packaging & the glass of its bottle has a gentle orange hue. Do you think you could become friends with this perfume?

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Prêt-à-porter, Prada L’Eau Ambree

A new day has come and along with it a brand new year started. It feels so nice to be able to continue this perfume adventure together with you in 2015. Once again I’m wishing everyone a healthy and prosperous year ahead. For the last two years it was kind of tradition for me that the first review of a new year is a perfume from Prada. Why? Because I have a sentiment for this fashion and fragrance house as it all started for me with a bottle of Prada perfume.

Today I continue this little tradition of mine by presenting to you a review of Prada L’Eau Ambree. First 20 seconds of this perfume give me an impression of frozen vodka with a slightly metallic edge to it. But this feeling is like a blink of an eye and after these few seconds it completely disappears. And here’s where tha magic begins. L’Eau Ambree instantly becomes a really warm and pleasant composition. At a glance it smells to me like the softest, most fuzzy and comfortable piece of suede a man could create. It feels so enveloping and sensual, making you want to wrap around with it.

However the truth is that there’s no suede at all in Prada L’Eau Ambree. As soon as the fragrance accommodates on your skin, and this might take up to 15 minutes, you realize that this wonderful aroma comes from nothing else but amber. It brings the beautiful light to this composition. It’s like the shiny and polished surface of a fossilized resin that smells a little bit of fur (suede), a little bit of sea salt with a very gentle smokiness in the background. Its richness builds up with time.

After a while the fragrance gains density and dimension when opoponax joins the composition of L’Eau Ambree by Prada. I have to admit that opoponax is one of my favorite fragrant resins due to its rich, sensual yet not overwhelming aroma. In this accord you will find something resinous and balsamic but also something sweet and with the undeniable sexual character. Opoponax to me is a kind of aroma material that has the ability to perfectly adjust to the wearer’s skin…

After 1 hour has passed since I applied it on my wrist, Prada L’Eau Ambree brings a very interesting twist to my nose. After that time it reveals a very tiny bit of citric notes with a zesty and juicy lemon coming to the front. This stage might not last long but it’s so surprising that it will make you smile and do a quiet “hmm” as you’ll be wearing this fragrance. Then the patchouli comes in. As L’Eau Ambree is an oriental fragrance you could expect something that will be really heavy on patchouli. If you thought so, you are badly mistaken. This Prada offers one of the best patchouli accords I know. It’s a little bit crunchy, leafy with no doubt and a tad dusty as well.

When patchouli appears on top of the notes pyramid for L’Eau Ambree is exactly when this fragrance becomes most interesting. Patchouli adds a bold character and self-confidence vibe to this scent, making it more standing out, vibrant and spectacularly elegant. And unlike many compositions containing patchouli, Prada feels very sophisticated, refined and stylish. This perfume never screams because for such a scent screaming would be passé. Instead it enchants you with a seductive whisper – “wear me, love me, I’ll embrace who you are.” It’s like a promise… As the time flies and the composition changes just a little bit, I can smell more vanilla.

It’s sweet indeed but in a good way. It’s also perfectly balanced with other notes so that overall feeling is kind of dark and mysterious when you smell it at this stage. In this form, when you smell vanilla, patchouli and ambery tones, Prada L’Eau Ambree lasts like that for a couple more hours. Its impeccable style as well as intimate sillage make it a kind of perfume that would be suitable to the office, for a big date but also casually, when you wear jeans and t-shirt. This is the beauty of timeless elegance that I find in many fragrances created by Prada.

L’Eau Ambree was composed for Prada by perfume Daniela Roche-Adrier. It’s gotten a bit old now as it was introduced in 2009 but my take is – timeless elegance like this doesn’t age. The perfume is marketed towards woman but in my opinion it smells very good (and very sexy) on a man. I think the bottle of L’Eau Ambree deserves special attention – it has a rectangular shape and its surface gradually becomes darker from top to the bottom of the flacon. Golden details, such as logo, cap and plate with the notes written on it. It’s available in 30, 50 and 80ml bottles with a regular sprayer as well as in 80ml deluxe bulb sprayer flacon. Body products are also available in this line.

[note] pictures come from nathanbranch.com

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