Monday Quick Sniffs, part 37

Here I go again with some brief impressions of perfume I tried lately.


Freshly launched by Maison Francis Kurkdjian this february is Aqua Celestia. I have to admit I had very high expectations for it. Not just because I loved Grand Soir but also because the description for this novelty sounds very appealing. It’s a very pretty composition but it’s oh so light that I can’t justify its high cost. Aqua Celestia doesn’t smell of anything on my skin for the first 5 minutes. Then it finally starts to effuse a juicy lime aroma with some green elements to it. Shortly after a refreshing, cold mint accord enters the stage. It gives an aromatic vibe to it. Then there is a beautiful mimosa. It’s yellow, powdery, with a floral-watery aroma. It nicely combines with the fragrance of black currant. The latter one brings a fruity and tart feeling, still a little bit cold. It highly reminds me of spring, of thawing ice and first plants waking up after the winter. In the base I could still smell mimosa, although it was very pale. There were also remaining elements of black currant plus a soft, fluffy musk. New MFK is a great perfume, it really is! But on my skin it’s completely gone within 1 hour. I understand that it’s only EdT concentration but if something retails at a premium quality price, I expect it to last at least 6 hours. I won’t accept a short-lived perfume. Unless it’s a refreshing cologne that is meant to fade away quickly.


Le Galion introduced Sang Bleu in September 2016. This ultra-masculine fragrance opens with a generous dose of wormwood that provides an aromatic intro of the composition. As it develops, you could smell a blend of zesty bergamot and juicy orange, followed by a bouquet of indolic jasmine. After a while true masculinity of this perfume rises. You could smell a lot of patchouli, spiced up with pink pepper. In addition there is galbanum that provides green scent. Then there is cold eucalyptus, put together with a lot of rosemary. The latter one gives an herbal impression that also veers dangerously towards sweaty, dirty smell. Tarragon smells a bit like hay in this Le Galion fragrance and it also has a sweaty aspect. Cedar is rugged, rough in this blend. It combines with patchouli for a duet that smells very earthly, muddy, dirty. Clary sage as well as other woody, spicy bits only enhance the feeling of dominating masculinity of Sang Bleu. This perfume is full of testosterone & women probably wouldn’t be happy wearing it themselves. But maybe they would be tempted by a man wearing it?


Close Up is a tenth fragrance from Olfactive Studio, a brand that couples perfume with photography to capture the mood of the place that has been photographed. This new member in the brand’s family starts with a heavy dose of tonka bean that gives an impression of something incredibly creamy, woody and warm spicy at the same time. It smells foody, like a pudding, but made of tonka and woody “granola”. Then a little bit of cherry joins the composition but I don’t get it as fruity at all. It’s there, I can smell it but it suits more to tell that it’s gourmand. Candied cherry is followed by coffee. Normally this note bothers me a lot though in Close Up it’s very soft, as if it was a latte with a lots of milk. This perfume also has a rich tenderness of tobacco and the bright facets of amber, placed on an earthy base of patchouli and musk. There is also a bit of rose. It’s quite a funny perfume, somewhat weird too but the combination smells surprisingly nice. I wouldn’t say that tonka, cherry, tobacco go well together. Here they do.

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16 thoughts on “Monday Quick Sniffs, part 37

  1. Jillie says:

    Ah, the curse of contemporary fragrance – a short life!

    I am shocked by the fleeting nature of the majority of perfumes today. Even those that have been on the market for years are now diluted. It’s an annoyance that I am always complaining about, but I do think we are being “ripped off”. I suppose the manufacturers might claim that they are protecting our health and safety by selling us the stuff in much less “dangerous” concentrations (nothing to do with profit margins of course!) …. but what’s the point of spending lots of money on something that is gone in hour or two?

    Think I am crabby today.

    • lucasai says:

      So true and so sad. Fortunately not all brands follow this rule, especially not in niche. Perhaps big brands make there fragrances weaker because in current world full of chemical additives to food etc we are more sensitive and more prone to allergy.
      But then for example Chanel switched their Les Exclusifs from edt to edp. Not sure if this did any good to perfumes themselves

      • Jillie says:

        I have read some reports that say that the new Chanel Exlusifs do not seem any stronger than the old edts …. hmmmmmmmm. And of course they are even more expensive. My latest bad experience was with Malle’s Iris Poudre – definitely diulted now – and I have old and new to compare side by side, so it’s not my poor old nose being less effective!

        • lucasai says:

          I’ve seen comments that edp of Les Exclusifs are worse than edt. Maybe not in terms of strength but they smell different, like reformulated.
          Oh shame your Iris Poudre is weaker now too. Could it be a result of Estee Lauder taking over this brand?

          • Jillie says:

            I can’t help feeling that you could be right about the possible effects of the EL takeover of FM. One of the reasons I liked Iris Poudre so much was that it was good and strong – like proper perfume!

            As for Les Exclusifs, it is heart-breaking to think that Chanel sought to reformulate – especially Misia which was only just one year old when they came up with their “cunning plan”. Even if these edps have more longevity, which seems doubtful, at what cost if they don’t smell like they used to?

            • lucasai says:

              It’s a game that one has to realize is not worth playing anymore. It’s not worth to buy a perfume that doesn’t satisfy your needs

  2. hajusuuri says:

    Woo hoo! I am not shocked by the MFK. Nowadays, I assume that perfumes don’t last long. The people over at Symrise admitted as much that clients demand a short time to market there is no time to tinker with the formula to fix longevity issues.

    I’m pretty sure I’ve smelled Sang Bleu at Twisted Lily and it was not interesting enough for me to request a sample.

    I am keen to try Close Up…yours was the first review I read and I really like what I read!

  3. Holly says:

    Aqua Celestia sounds nice, but you’re absolutely right regarding the price in relation to the longevity. I guess I’ll blast some on when I bump into it in a store, although hmmm … maybe not. Maybe it would just piss me off? 🙂

  4. Barbara B says:

    Not sure how I feel about mint in fragrance. I just like my toothpaste and my mints minty.

    • Jillie says:

      Hi Barbara! Hope you don’t mind me jumping in here …. wanted to say that I once felt like that about mint until one summer I was so hot I thought I would melt; out of desperation I tried Guerlain’s Herba Fresca and it was perfect – like a cooling breeze. It’s fleeting, and I don’t know how much they may have diluted the current formula (see my whinges above), but that doesn’t matter so much when you’re lavishly spraying to cool yourself down.

      • lucasai says:

        Good remark. I find neroli even more cooling and refreshing.
        It’s also great to keep your summer colognes in fridge and then when you spray it, you surround yourself in a cold mist. Lovely!

  5. Undina says:

    I do not like most of the MFK’s perfumes (ironically, those that he made for his own line; I like several he created for other brands) so I didn’t plan to try Aqua Celestia – until I read your review 🙂 Now I think I’ll give it a try the next time I’m in the store. If I can remember the name.

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